I am going to assume that the entire exhaust side of the engine bay at this moment is gone. That means air box, turbo, manifold, oil and coolant lines, turbo inlet pipe, turbo outlet hose, downpipe, cat converter, etc. This can be done with the front bumper still on the car (installed my whole setup with my front bumper still on), but headlight removed for working room.
1) Unbolt the bottom nut of both motor mounts
2) Ubolt the 3 bolts that hold the snub mount bracket to the oil pan
3) Remove throttle body hose from TB
4) Place hydraulic jack under the oil pan with a wood prop (2x4), and lift the engine
5) Once you reach the point of tension on the jack, stop
6) Remove the ground wire from the motor mount bracket (I think 13mm nut and bolt combo)
7) Remove the 3 bolts that holds the motor mount bracket to the block (8mm hex bit)
8) Once you have this out of the vehicle, cut off a piece the right of the heat shield (if looking from the front) to make an easy access path for your coolant feed and oil return line. This can be done with snips, dremel, cut off wheel, etc. I did not do this, and letting you guys know to go this route. I ripped mine completely off and the bracket gets so hot that my motor mount boot is starting to melt. This is what will happen if you take off the heat shield. And if you don't make a path for your oil and coolant lines, you are going to fight for fitment. Just make it easy on yourself and cut a piece of the left flap of the heat shield off. Or deal with the limited space due to the heat shield. Your choice.
9) Lay this back in the engine bay from where you took it with the bottom of the motor mount in it's perspective slot. Lay the motor mount bracket on the block in the same orientation it is to be mounted back (just rest is against the block, and not bolted up back to the block). Since the engine is raised, it gives you room to place in the manifold and turbo.
10) Bolt on your exhaust manifold to the cylinder head using locking nuts and OEM gasket.
11) Loosen your bolts for the housing of your turbo, so you can clock it correctly.
12) I placed a rag on the rail to not scratch my turbo, but you don't need to do this. But at this point, you will have enough room to place your turbo on your manifold. With it fully seated on the t3 flange, tighten back one bolt for each housing after it is clocked correctly.
13) Take turbo back off manifold and torque down the rest of the bolts.
14) At this point, I am going to assume you already placed the coolant feed line on the block...good! Easiest way to mount this line to the turbo is to place the banjo fitting on the other end of the line, then bolt on the banjo bolt with washers onto the turbo "before" you place the turbo back onto the manifold. Along with this, attach the oil drain to the turbo "before" placing it back on the manifold. It is just much much easier to do it this way, but you can do it however you want. You should also have the other fittings on the ports of the CHRA (coolant return fitting and oil feed fitting).
15) Now...place the turbo back onto the manifold and torque down the locking nuts.
16) The motor mount bracket should have been laying against the block this whole time. Now, lift it up into position and bolt it back to the block (I used my fingers and a hex key to torque the 2 front ones back down. Then used a ratchet with 8mm hex bit and extension (may not be needed) to torque the one down on the back.
17) Lower your engine back down, place back on your motor mount nuts, 3 bolts for the snub cage, and now you should be able to take it from here.
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