Successful Day

**EErie B6** · 03-12-2012 12:28 PM

You are going to have a really nice setup... Especially once the bottom end is done.

The second valve cover in your one picture, is that the second one you bought? You know that one is NOT an AEB right?

**Seerlah** · 03-12-2012 12:31 PM

You know, I never really looked at it. Always had it tucked away somewhere. Had it in my garage, and had to blow all the dust off it before I took the pic. I know the differences, but never looked at this cover. Thanks for pointing that out!

**EErie B6** · 03-12-2012 01:21 PM

Does it really matter though?

Were you looking for an AEB for a specific reason?

**Seerlah** · 03-12-2012 01:24 PM

No. I just thought the ad I bought it from said it was an AEB powder coated VC, so I always just said that.

But for an update, found a place to tuck my engine harness and swapped in my tuned ECU. I didn't check the mail yet, but bolts should be here today (shipping from like an hour drive away). Downpipe should be installed tomorrow as well as LC-1 wired up. After that, need to wait on a few things in the mail and she is good to crank.

Need (already ordered):
-Vibrant air filter (not sure when to arrive...ordered last night)
-12mm check valve for brake boost to IM (shipping from UK

)
-5mm silicone hose and 12mm silicone hose (shipped from Florida last week)
-used front right brake caliper (shipped out today from Ohio and I am in the Tri State NY areea)
-Innovate heat sink for sensor (not quite sure when to arrive, but I can always place this on whenever)

And that should be everything.

Does anybody who did the vacuum line delete run a check valve from the IM to brake booster? I noticed people didn't, but the suction jet pump has one built into it going to the brake booster.

**Shhmaudi** · 03-12-2012 04:27 PM

Congrats seerlah, finally joining the BT crew. I expect a few videos of your new setup running. Say good bye to your clutch, and on that note I love my fx 400 240mm 6 puck stock like feel with superior "grabability?!?!"

**Seerlah** · 03-12-2012 08:41 PM

I have a Bosch 044 in tank pump I installed a couple months back and many times have a starting issue due to a rather weak check valve. I would many times need to let it crank, turn key back, then crank again for her to start. At times, it is embarrassing because people look at you like your car does not want to start. Not that I really care, or even should care. But even when I removed my fuel rail, there was no pressure. All I had to do was just pour the remaining fuel out onto a rag. Anyways, just ordered a BMW check valve that people use to remedy this. BMW part number is 16149068988.

Photo taken from ECS, but purchased elsewhere. ECS no longer carries this item

Also think I may have found a check valve to work with our brake booster. Simply take out the piece on the rubber grommet and place this part in. That's well wishing anyways. Just sent an email to the UK to try and cancel my order for the 12mm check valve, and thinking I can run this Dorman unit with silicone hose to the IM.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RNB-80189/

**Dalers08** · 03-12-2012 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by Seerlah

Does anybody who did the vacuum line delete run a check valve from the IM to brake booster? I noticed people didn't, but the suction jet pump has one built into it going to the brake booster.

I didnt run a check valve and no problems yet (been about 700 miles).

**walky_talky20** · 03-13-2012 06:38 AM

The other check valves are actually redundant (which is good, but not completely necessary as long as the main one is working). As long as you have still retained the OEM plastic hard line in front of the secondary firewall, you are good.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Brak...ter/ES2091121/

The nearest right angle bit is the check valve (has the little arrow on it and such).

**Seerlah** · 03-13-2012 06:55 AM

Wow, I never even noticed that was a check valve, also. I cut the hard line off of that, and just have the fitting pictured placed into the grommet on the false firewall. It is roughly 12mm, along with the port on the IM being roughly 12mm. So, ordered 12mm silicone (should have maybe gone with 11mm) vacuum hose to from that fitting for the brake booster to the IM where the L breather hose would go. Thanks for this Keith, I did not even know that was a check valve. So, that why people never had any issues not placing in a check valve when doing the vacuum delete?

**Aragorn** · 03-13-2012 06:57 AM

As above, you NEED a check valve between the IM and brake servo, as you dont want boost pressure reaching your servo and you want to keep a store of vacuum in there when your at WOT.

But so long as you retain the OEM one shown, it will be fine.

Edit: Why not just use a standard AEB style hose, rather than messing about with aftermarket silicone etc?

**Seerlah** · 03-13-2012 07:12 AM

What hose are you referring to? I want to run a direct line from that fitting (check valve) to the IM. No pieced together stuff.

**Seerlah** · 03-13-2012 10:51 AM

Ghetto rigged the brake booster. I'll figure out something better later on, but this will do the job of actually making my vehicle operational. what I did was cut up my L-breather hose. Then learned that the coolant return line that runs in front of the engine OD fits into the l-hose, and the ID fits over the port on the IM. The rubber is pretty hard, and is sturdy when clamped down. I don't see this leaking one bit or even failing. I of course cleaned out the coolant hose of the caked on coolant inside first. I had an extra bonus of being able to use the OEM clamp for it too

. As for the port that the breather hose goes into, I just cut a small section left over from the breather hose to place on the port. About to go out and purchase a plug for it.

Also found a place to tuck my engine harness (took thenj3's advice). Took out that grommet, placed a slit in it, cut out a little of the middle of it, and wallah (this translates to "by God" in arabic, in case people say it and never knew the meaning). Also used this to route my Innovate LC-1 sensor.

It's madness I tell you, madness!

And how it looks like with a messed up cowl (hood got closed by the wind one day when it was laying on top of my engine, and cracked it)

Also got my LC-1 all wired up. I stole the idea of the push calibration button location from a different build thread. Yes, I stole it. lol. The LED hole did not come out as clean as I wanted, but eh. I notice it, not sure if others would.

And now, need to play the waiting game. Fuel rail spacers came in yesterday, so the rail is now bolted down. Only thing left is vacuum hose from the bov to IM (waiting for arrival in mail), bolts for turbo to downpipe (waiting for bolts to arrive in mail), and brake caliper (waiting to arrive in mail). After that...place in replacement brake caliper, bleed caliper, place fluids in, calibrate LC-1 (along with placing other o2 sensor back in bungs), prime turbo, start her up, dial in fuel pressure, bleed coolant properly, go for a spin, dial in mbc, and that should be it. Hopefully, anyways!

**EuroSwag** · 03-13-2012 01:58 PM

Looks great so far man! I thought for you to properly calibrate the A/F gauge the 02 sensor had to be outside of the exhaust piping? Also what size vacuum tubing did you use for the wastegate ports?

**Aragorn** · 03-13-2012 02:02 PM

Originally Posted by Seerlah

What hose are you referring to? I want to run a direct line from that fitting (check valve) to the IM. No pieced together stuff.

The hose on an AEB does exactly that. Comes off the inlet manifold, via a check valve then to that rubber bung thing on the firewall.

**Seerlah** · 03-13-2012 02:08 PM

Can't recall what size hose I used, to be honest. I think I used 8mm. And yes, the WB sensor needs to be calibrated outside of the exhaust for ambient calibration along with heat testing. Also, I have to calibrate the gauge I am using with it also. So I need to calibrate the sensor first via controller and push button. Then I need to calibrate it with my gauge before placing it into the bung.

Originally Posted by Aragorn

The hose on an AEB does exactly that. Comes off the inlet manifold, via a check valve then to that rubber bung thing on the firewall.

I tried to look it up after you posted that, but could not find it. Would you happen to have a link to it on a US site? Or maybe a part number? As seen above, I ghetto rigged mine, and def want to clean it up later on. Also, I was able to plug the other port I said I was going out to buy a plug for to attach to the l-breather hose. My oil drain plug fit perfectly into there, so that solved that issue (using the 034 magnetic one, so had my old one sitting on my garage shelf).

**Aragorn** · 03-13-2012 02:11 PM

Originally Posted by Seerlah

and wallah (this translates to "by God" in arabic, in case people say it and never knew the meaning).

I think you actually mean "Voila", which is borrowed from French and means "there it is"

Wallah in arabic is more like "i swear to god", and would be used perhaps along the lines of "i swear to god i saw him steal your shoes" which isnt really what your saying!

**Seerlah** · 03-13-2012 02:12 PM

Whoops!

**jaychen** · 03-13-2012 05:28 PM

Originally Posted by Aragorn

I think you actually mean "Voila", which is borrowed from French and means "there it is"

Wallah in arabic is more like "i swear to god", and would be used perhaps along the lines of "i swear to god i saw him steal your shoes" which isnt really what your saying!

LOL

**thenj3** · 03-13-2012 07:11 PM

hey man bolts went out again this morning hopefully you will have them tomorrow. are you using the psi line kit or did you make your own lines?

**Seerlah** · 03-14-2012 12:45 AM

Using the PSi line kit. And they are some pretty pieces.

**CCA4** · 03-14-2012 06:11 AM

I like what you did with the MAF/Evap pigtails. REALLY cleans up that side of the engine bay

**Seerlah** · 03-14-2012 01:15 PM

I actually had to cut off my MAF connector to make it fit through. I wasn't even thinking, and should have just removed the pigtails. I left enough wire to make it easy for me to solder it back on, if I ever need to. The connector was messed up anyways, and I'll more than likely replace it anyways if I need to place it back on.

But I have a question for you guys, if you can help. You think the design of this filter will cause any issues with my turbo? On Vibrant's website, there is a filter which they stated can not be used on turbocharged engines. But it did not state anything about this unit, so I figured it would be ok. But I'm just used to either the mushroom or flat top filters, and simply looking for confirmation that this filter will be fine.

top

inside

**thenj3** · 03-14-2012 07:46 PM

Originally Posted by Seerlah

Using the PSi line kit. And they are some pretty pieces.

yea they look nice, i think my oil drain may be seeping slightly though. your filter will be fine. did the bolts come in today? i hope they did and that you have been wrenching away, well trying to get that dp on and thats why there has been no updates haha

**Seerlah** · 03-14-2012 08:03 PM

No, bolts did not come in yet. Just my filter came in. I am expecting delivery of my brake caliper tomorrow def, so that is a plus to get out of the way. After that, just need the silicone hose to route my bov to IM and your turbo bolts. Then, I can prep her for start, turn her over, and dial her in. Minus these little snags along the way, this went rather fast. Could have gone faster.

Also, where on the oil drain is your leaking? I used ARP sealant on my fittings, and hopefully it does the trick. I would have dread using that Permatex stuff. I had the entire line all attached to the turbo before I placed the turbo in. This ensured they were tight, because I did it with the turbo out of the vehicle. Then mounted the flange to the oil pan, with those 2 5mm hex bolts and gasket. I found this not only the easiest way to go about it, but easiest way to make sure all the fittings were tight.

**CCA4** · 03-15-2012 05:47 AM

Mitch I don't see any reason you wouldn't be able to use that filter. Did their website say specifically what that other filter wouldn't work with FI?

**Seerlah** · 03-15-2012 06:12 AM

Nope. The filter should be good though. Was looking at the design and reading on it to learn why they designed it like that. And we can't use "open" funnel filters.

**Turbwhistle** · 03-15-2012 06:29 AM

Roba4 runs the filter posted.

**Avant Nate** · 03-15-2012 07:18 AM

Why are we not supposed to run funnel filters? And is that only for filters attached directly to the turbo?

**Seerlah** · 03-15-2012 07:25 AM

Yes, only for when it is attached directly to the turbo. I don't know why, but you will notice sites list "open" funnel filters are not to be used for turbocharged vehicles. I am assuming the way the compressor draws in air with the design of the filter isn't good for the compressor wheel. This is just an assumption, though. They can be used with adapters or silicone hoses for extension, though.

I wanted to pick up the Apexi one, and they too said it is not be used on turbocharged vehicles (was not listed on their site as not being able to be used with turbocharged vehicles, so I contacted them to confirm). They had a short open funnel unit. But they said I could use it if I used it with their adapter, which basically just extended the filter further away from the compressor housing.

**murdered APR a4** · 03-15-2012 07:50 AM

Dang man making good progress I always hate when it is just a bolt you are waiting on lol. Or bolts in your case

**M-Hood** · 03-15-2012 08:15 AM

You don't want to use a inverted cone top filter bolted directly to the MAF housing because it forces most of the air toward the outside edges of the filter which means most of all the air is running along the walls of the MAF housing instead of down the center where the sensor is located.

If you are mounting it well up stream of the MAF housing then you are perfectly fine since the air will spread out by the time it reaches the MAF.

**Seerlah** · 03-15-2012 12:44 PM

Turbo bolts (thanks Aaron) and brake caliper came in today. Going to try to place those in before the sun goes down. After that, just need some silly vacuum hose for the BOV. Pics to come!

**thenj3** · 03-15-2012 05:24 PM

update update please. how did those bolts work out? did you have as hard as a time as i did with that downpipe

**Seerlah** · 03-15-2012 05:40 PM

That downpipe is a PIA. The bolts fit and work perfect. I bolted down and torqued the 3 reachable ones, and the sun went down by the time I wanted to fully torque down the 4th one (you know, the one in that retarded spot with the ugly angle of the pipe). I need to get some crows feet for that sucker, so I'll get at it tomorrow.

But on the good note, just about buttoned up. Replaced my brake caliper and bled the line, which is why I even went ahead and install this kit right now. But I am sure glad I got it out of the way. Right in time for that good weather. Also noticed my intercooler piping came loose (off compressor housing to radiator support charge pipe). Glad I noticed that before I finished for the night, or else I would have been dumbfounded when I turned her over.

But getting the downpipe in place was a b*tch. I work on my car alone, and there was just no way I could have attached my midpipe to downpipe without some help. Met a guy who owns a B5 S4 maybe 4 weeks ago or so, gave him some free ball seat lug nuts I had laying in the garage (met him at Autozone, while he was looking for lugs). Called him up and he was at my house in like 15 minutes to help me out. I pulled the exhaust back (only one hanger left on the muffler), while he put the dp and midpipe together (with him we got it done in no more than 15 seconds. by myself, I was at it for more than an hour). There is just no way I could have done that by myself. Tried to for a good hour or so, before the light bulb to call him up entered my head. He said he even has silicone hose I can use that I'm waiting for in the mail.

My car should def be all buttoned up tomorrow and I'll take pics then. Then just need a hose from bov to im, then onto pre-starting stuff, and stuff after she turns over (bleed coolant, check over system, dial in fuel pressure, etc). But if all goes well, she should be back on the road by tomorrow night.

Also, what compensation you want for those bolts. Tell you what. I can take a trip over to your residence and help you out. Sound fair? I'm no expert, but I'm no dummy

.

**thenj3** · 03-15-2012 08:13 PM

i don't need anything for the bolts. it costed 2 bucks for shipping haha. you can repay me by meeting up for some mountain blasting once our cars running solid. as for the dp i forgot to mention its alot easier to get the wastegate bolts together if the turbo bolts are loose if you didnt do that. did you by chance take any pics of the dp and if it lined up right. it sounds like yours was alot easier than mine.

**Seerlah** · 03-15-2012 08:31 PM

The holes for the waste-gate are off by maybe 1/4". Not too bad where I can't just strong arm it into place. I'll take pics tomorrow of how it is off. And I'm not in the mood to loosen those turbo to downpipe bolts, then re-tighten them. But as usual, I will if I have to.

My mechanic does a cruise in the spring time, if you want to roll to that. This is the first year I will be going, as I never felt my car worthy of going. And I am thinking of maybe hitting up at least one Bear Mountain run this year. People post cruises and meets in the regional section all the time. Now that spring is here, cruises are right around the corner. Might even be down for a cruise to h20 this year.

**Seerlah** · 03-17-2012 02:54 PM

She runs!!! Going to dial in boost and will post updates later

.

**biketsai** · 03-17-2012 03:01 PM

Cant wait to see how its running/how the tune is running for you.

**Turbo Nerd** · 03-17-2012 03:29 PM

Excellent

.

On a side note don't be scared to turn the boost up a bit, my buddy runs 22psi daily on his T3 GT3071 on his 04 Jetta, stock motor, 630cc Unitronics, and meth. Been running it for 7 months now without any issues.

**Seerlah** · 03-17-2012 03:52 PM

I have this flutter with the blow back, and not sure if it is the WG or BOV. Does the EWG flutter and make like a compressor surge sound? Because I dread that's what it is. I have not dialed in the boost (just went for test drive), but I have a strong feeling my system isn;t running how it should. No CEL or misfires or anything, but my LC-1 does not sit at stoche (14.7) like it should. Running a tad rich, but at idle (warm engine) before take off it will fluctuate between 14.5-14.7 A/R. At WOT (16psi max right now), it is at like 12:1 A/F. Opinions would be much appreciated.

I also set up my Precision WG how people route the Tial units. I am thinking that may be part of my problem, and going to set it up how the Precision install instructions say. Updates soon.

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