If you have a 2005-2006 you have a 116 bar valve.
If you have a 2007-2008 you have a 126 bar valve.
Either way you will most likely have to replace this part because tunes above stage 2 usually require more pressure than what Audi had intended.
To date, the only options are:
1. Buy the rs4 Pressure Regulator Valve(PRV) though this is not optimal for our cars.
2. Contact HPFPupgrade.com and buy one of their valves. It is recommended to buy a valve that is 10 bar above what you plan to run.
Image courtesy of www.HPFPupgrade.comNeither Audizine nor I take responsibility for any damages you may cause while working on your car. This DIY is a reference only, Audizine and any of it's members are not liable. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.
Tools needed:
14mm crows foot
17mm crows foot
12" 3/8's bar extension
3/8s ratchet
Philips and flathead screwdriver
17mm wrench
Torx 25 on a screwdriver or ratchet.
1.Before you start working on the fuel system, reduce the pressure by removing the fuel pump fuze. Turn your engine on and wait for the fuel pressure to go down and your car will stop running. Now we can dive in.
Shot from the left of the steering wheel2. Disconnect the harness that plugs into the bottom of your coolant tank. Remove the philps screw holding your coolant tank. Pull the front end up and toward you to pull it out of its position. Set it aside for now, we will need this space to access the PRV from the side.
Shot from above the engine3. Disconnect your PCV system or catch can. Since I had rerouted my 034 Catch can hoses, I was able to just remove the rear hose to access the PRV. If you have the PCV system as opposed to the catch can then you will indeed have to remove both hoses.
Shot from above the engineNow we can see that the PRV is below the intake manifold.
Shot from above the engine4. Remove the two t-25 screws that attach to the hard fuel line on top of the intake manifold.
Shot from above the engine5. Remove the screw attaching the two hard lines under the intake manifold and is next to the n80. Move the bracket that holds these two screws to the side or take it off completely. Now you have removed these three screws, you can proceed to the next step. The screw you remove in this lower picture holds the bracket that you need to push out of the way.
Shot from the right side of the engine6. You may want to put glasses on or be careful, there is a chance that you may get sprayed with fuel. Attach your 14mm crows foot to the 12" bar on the 3/8 ratchet and break the hard fuel line free from the PRV, continue to turn the hard fuel line nut until it is entirely off of the PRV. Once it is off, slightly push it off, since you have removed the three screws, it should be easy to put it out of the way so the PRV can be brought out.
Shot from the right side of the engine7. Attach the 17mm crows foot to the 12" bar on the 3/8 ratchet and break free the PRV from the engine. If your crows foot is not too wide you may be able to twist it off all the way using the crows foot. In my situation, my crows foot was too wide and so I broke it loose using the crows foot, then used a 17mm wrench on the PRV to remove it all the way.
Shot from the right of the engine.If the crows foot doesn't work then use the 17mm wrench.
Shot from above the engine.8. Put in your new PRV and reassemble everything in reverse order. Don't forget the coolant tank sensor!
Feel free to PM with any questions.
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Originally Posted by mec
2013 RS5 Daytona Grey Pearl, X-pipe, 20% tint, Arc Audio/Alpine, interior/backup LED, 034 RSB, H&R sport, V-FF 103, 285/30 DWS06, Girodisc, Hawk
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