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  1. #12761
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
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    Western Maryland

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    Might be worth a read if you are dealing with heat issues: Clicky click® and Clicky click 2®
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  2. #12762
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    I got two, phones

    one for my calls
    one for my music

    how do I get rid of this damn iPhone 4s once and for all?
    Previous owner of my car installed a DICE many years ago, with a 4S connector plug.

    I *could* just buy a short little adapter, to connect from 4S plug to current phone (6S),
    and that would play music
    However, only problem is for some reason, this DICE thing (hidden behind a trim panel I think) does not charge devices. It only plays them.
    So my phone would die.

    Not sure if I have to go ripping the thing out and learn how to wire in a better product.

    All that modern phone stuff, such as a car connector and a holder somewhere, looks like it'd be nice to have
    for podcasts, music, navigation, etc.

    DICE doesn't look too highly rated on the internet...
    I wonder what everyone else runs



  3. #12763
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Might be worth a read if you are dealing with heat issues: Clicky click® and Clicky click 2®
    Thanks old guy. Was actually going to take your advice from the 2nd link and try a mix of air/water at pressure to free up whatever might be in there. I do have a instant read trigger style thermometer so I can measure the temp drop across the 2 hoses as well. Passenger side is the inlet correct and the driver's side is the return?

  4. #12764
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Lower hose supply to heater. Upper hose return from heater. Arrow points to bleeder hole in return hose.


    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  5. #12765
    Established Member Two Rings
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    02B6A4
    Location
    NY

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Lower hose supply to heater. Upper hose return from heater. Arrow points to bleeder hole in return hose.


    I felt how hot the hoses are after the car was warmed up with the heat turned on but just cold air blowing. The lower core hose was very hot to the touch and the upper hose was warm. what does that indicate? Air pockets still in the system or blocked heater core?

  6. #12766
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Could be either one. Try doing a cold bleed first. If it doesn't help then try a core flush or just replace the core.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  7. #12767
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Could be either one. Try doing a cold bleed first. If it doesn't help then try a core flush or just replace the core.
    I am not 100% percent sure on how the cold bleed procedure steps are. Is it do not start engine just undo the upper core hose to where it shows the tiny hole and loosen the hardpipe bolt to let air out until its just straight coolant flowing out?

  8. #12768
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
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    Quote Originally Posted by a1rh3adSz View Post
    I am not 100% percent sure on how the cold bleed procedure steps are. Is it do not start engine just undo the upper core hose to where it shows the tiny hole and loosen the hardpipe bolt to let air out until its just straight coolant flowing out?
    This should help. Click
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  9. #12769
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
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    Quote Originally Posted by a1rh3adSz View Post
    I am not 100% percent sure on how the cold bleed procedure steps are. Is it do not start engine just undo the upper core hose to where it shows the tiny hole and loosen the hardpipe bolt to let air out until its just straight coolant flowing out?
    Read the second and third paragraph in "WHAT ADVICE CAN I GIVE?" Clicky click®
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  10. #12770
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    This should help. Click
    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Read the second and third paragraph in "WHAT ADVICE CAN I GIVE?" Clicky click®
    thanks, I will try the cold bleed and report back.

  11. #12771
    Established Member Two Rings LordKarnage17's Avatar
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    Would anyone happen to know the function of the blue/black wire on the alternator thats controlled by the ECU and weather it can be bypassed? It's on a 1.8t

    I've been having problems with the entire charging system for the past month. I replaced the voltage regulator and confirmed that the alternator was capable of charging the battery by connecting a jumper wire between the D shaped 2 pin terminal on the alternator and the battery. However after repining the original D shaped connector and checking both pins showed close to battery voltage I'm back to square one with an alternator that does not charge.

    Having the voltage regulator directly connected to the battery causes the alternator to charge the battery too much, and having it connected to the ECU causes it to not charge at all.

    It's likely a simple issue but I'm a bit defeated right now since wiring is not my strong suite. Any help would be greatly appreciated .
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    2003 a4 QM 5 Speed 141k Miles 1.8t/FMIC/ catback magnaflow exhaust/ forge diverter valve/ GIAC tune

  12. #12772
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    questions you thought were too dumb to ask

    Here’s a dumb one: ever since I bought my B6, the aero wipers chatter like crazy unless the windshield is very wet with rain or washer fluid. Even with new blades it still can skip at times. My friend with a B6 and B7 also has aero wipers and never has chattering to the degree I do. I’ve noticed that the Bosch blades skip the least versus Valeo or Genuine.

    Only thing I can think is there might be an issue with the arms? I think they’re factory original, afaik. So maybe the spring isn’t applying enough pressure to keep them skipping? I suppose I could try putting more tension on the spring? *

    Anyone else have this issue?
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  13. #12773
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Los Angeles, Ca

    Quote Originally Posted by a1rh3adSz View Post
    thanks, I will try the cold bleed and report back.
    Have you checked with VCDS if you have any fault codes for the hvac system? I had a similar issue. It took me recalibrated/reset the servo motors for everything to work again.
    05' S4 6MT Moro Blue

  14. #12774
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Only thing I can think is there might be an issue with the arms? I think they’re factory original, afaik. So maybe the spring isn’t applying enough pressure to keep them skipping? I suppose I could try putting more tension on the spring? *

    Anyone else have this issue?
    I had the same issue, I believe I pulled the arm back out a bit to relieve the tension on the arm and it fixed the issue.
    Brilliant Red 2004 A4 1.8T quattro Ultrasport
    Frankenturbo F21L | Motoza Tuning | FMIC | Test Pipe | Bosch 550cc | 710n DV | Podi Boost Gauge | 21 PSI

    Dolphin Gray A4 1.8T quattro 2004
    Brilliant Red A4 2.0T quattro 2007
    DIY - A4 B6 Boost Leak Test

  15. #12775
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RDA990 View Post
    I had the same issue, I believe I pulled the arm back out a bit to relieve the tension on the arm and it fixed the issue.
    Pulled it back as in, when you pull back the arm to change the wiper blade?
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  16. #12776
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Pulled it back as in, when you pull back the arm to change the wiper blade?
    My windshield wipers suck. I've pretty much given up on them. I've had three separate sets of arms, OEM replacements and Aero arms. None of them apply the proper pressure on the windshield and I'm stuck bending the arms to even make contact with the windshield. I've finally got the drivers side to wipe properly(still noisy at the top of travel) but the passenger side there's just a huge spot that doesn't get wiped. Like I said, I've given up at this point but it still drives me crazy.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  17. #12777
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    My windshield wipers suck. I've pretty much given up on them. I've had three separate sets of arms, OEM replacements and Aero arms. None of them apply the proper pressure on the windshield and I'm stuck bending the arms to even make contact with the windshield. I've finally got the drivers side to wipe properly(still noisy at the top of travel) but the passenger side there's just a huge spot that doesn't get wiped. Like I said, I've given up at this point but it still drives me crazy.
    The fact that I'm not the only one makes me feel a little better, because everywhere else I've read, people rant and rave about how good the Aero wipers are...

    I'll have to play around with the arms a little bit, I've never had wipers be this finicky before on other cars. It drives me crazy too, but I've learned to deal with it and buy the Bosch ones... still not perfect but meh
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  18. #12778
    Established Member Two Rings
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    My climate control shuts itself completely off while idling for ~5 minutes. It occurs after the car has been driven. If I shut the engine down and start it right back up it will fire right up and work as normal. I’ve been searching but all I can find is info regarding it not functioning properly (on but not blowing heat/ac). No VAG COM, so no way to get codes, sorry team. Ideas?
    Last edited by Tahoe3.0; 12-18-2018 at 04:18 PM.

  19. #12779
    Established Member Two Rings APC123's Avatar
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    questions you thought were too dumb to ask

    Can I run NGK BKR7E with my un-tuned car

  20. #12780
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by APC123 View Post
    Can I run NGK BKR7E with my un-tuned car
    You can but there would be no advantage. 6E would be a better choice.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  21. #12781
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    The fact that I'm not the only one makes me feel a little better, because everywhere else I've read, people rant and rave about how good the Aero wipers are...

    I'll have to play around with the arms a little bit, I've never had wipers be this finicky before on other cars. It drives me crazy too, but I've learned to deal with it and buy the Bosch ones... still not perfect but meh
    Mine aren't the greatest either.

    I busted my windshield a while back and I read up on replacements. The general consensus was get an OEM windshield because cheaper ones caused problems with the wipers missing spots.

    I shelled out $500 for an OEM windshield and my aero blades still miss spots.

    Totally worth the extra money. -_-
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  22. #12782
    Established Member Two Rings APC123's Avatar
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    questions you thought were too dumb to ask

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    You can but there would be no advantage. 6E would be a better choice.
    So I will wait to install the 7E’s then, until my car is tuned. 6E vs. 7E, why would 6E be better suited for a stock 1.8t, vs. a 7E. Is it the heat range? Not hot enough to efficiently light the A/F?
    Last edited by APC123; 12-19-2018 at 07:45 AM.

  23. #12783
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    Mine aren't the greatest either.

    I busted my windshield a while back and I read up on replacements. The general consensus was get an OEM windshield because cheaper ones caused problems with the wipers missing spots.

    I shelled out $500 for an OEM windshield and my aero blades still miss spots.

    Totally worth the extra money. -_-
    Interesting. I suppose that's because the aftermarket ones don't have the same curvature as OEM.

    But yeah, my windshield is the factory original afaik.

    I think someone here got annoyed with the B6 wiper blade nonsense and chopped the end of the arm and welded a normal J-hook onto it so he can use normal blades, lol.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  24. #12784
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
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    The 6E heat range is appropriate for a stock tune. The 7E is one step colder and helps out when you are running higher power output from a tuned engine.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  25. #12785
    Established Member Two Rings APC123's Avatar
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    Would there be a draw back with using 7E’s on my stock car.

  26. #12786
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Plugs would not run as clean.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  27. #12787
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Plugs would not run as clean.
    Yep^ There is such a thing as too cold when it comes to spark plugs. Ideally you want to run as "hot" a plug as possible. I never understood why everyone preaches about needing a 7 heat range plug for stage 1 unless you're absolutely flogging the car at all times. 6 is more than fine and never had any pinging whatsoever even with many autox events, etc.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  28. #12788
    Established Member Two Rings APC123's Avatar
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    questions you thought were too dumb to ask

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Yep^ There is such a thing as too cold when it comes to spark plugs. Ideally you want to run as "hot" a plug as possible. I never understood why everyone preaches about needing a 7 heat range plug for stage 1 unless you're absolutely flogging the car at all times. 6 is more than fine and never had any pinging whatsoever even with many autox events, etc.
    Alright. The reason I ask is cause I told the guy “NGK BKR7E” when I meant 6E. Damnit. I will get some 6E, Atleast they aren’t expensive.

    Also, fR3ZNO I know I asked you if it would be alright to use the 2.0t coils on my car, but others have said NO cause of the “dwell” time... WILL THEY BE ALRIGHT is what I’m wondering. And if so, I will get 6E’s and gap them tooooo what, .040 ??

    Old Guy, they are 07K 2.0t coils, not the R version (whatever, just not 07K, the other 2.0t). I had read some answers people gave on the question of “Will my 07K coils fail if I run them on my 1.8t with appropriately gapped plugs” ~ paraphrase. And the the majority of answers surrounding this question were “No, my 07K coils were fine”, as other people who said theirs failed, they didn’t have 07K coils, but the other 2.0t coils.

    Thank you! :))))
    Last edited by APC123; 12-19-2018 at 04:02 PM.

  29. #12789
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by APC123 View Post
    Also, fR3ZNO I know I asked you if it would be alright to use the 2.0t coils on my car, but others have said NO cause of the “dwell” time... WILL THEY BE ALRIGHT is what I’m wondering. And if so, I will get 6E’s and gap them tooooo what, .040 ??
    I'm aware of the dwell time concern. But, personally I've ran 06E and 07K coils on my 1.8T with no changes to the dwell time and had no issues over 30K miles. Perhaps over a long period of time it would cause them to fail, but I haven't had issues. Yep, gap to 0.040"
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  30. #12790
    Senior Member Three Rings Gin+'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Yep^ There is such a thing as too cold when it comes to spark plugs. Ideally you want to run as "hot" a plug as possible. I never understood why everyone preaches about needing a 7 heat range plug for stage 1 unless you're absolutely flogging the car at all times. 6 is more than fine and never had any pinging whatsoever even with many autox events, etc.
    You wouldn't have any noticeable pinging thanks to the knock sensors. Logging timing correction and ignition angle would be more telling if the plugs make a difference.
    They're not scared of you. They're scared of what you represent to 'em.

  31. #12791
    Active Member Two Rings tirefire's Avatar
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    I just finished installing a rebuilt rear caliper from rock auto on my b6. It came with new copper washers for the line connection, which I used, and I've tightened the crap out of the thing but it still leaks just a drip. I don't want to risk stripping the threads with further tightening. Is there any hope that with a little use the copper will sort of seat into the caliper and seal up?

  32. #12792
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gin+ View Post
    You wouldn't have any noticeable pinging thanks to the knock sensors. Logging timing correction and ignition angle would be more telling if the plugs make a difference.
    Fair enough. Thanks for dropping some knowledge.

    Quote Originally Posted by tirefire View Post
    I just finished installing a rebuilt rear caliper from rock auto on my b6. It came with new copper washers for the line connection, which I used, and I've tightened the crap out of the thing but it still leaks just a drip. I don't want to risk stripping the threads with further tightening. Is there any hope that with a little use the copper will sort of seat into the caliper and seal up?
    Which brand did you get? Seems most rebuilders send super thick copper washers that don't crush easily. I've had better luck with thinner copper washers. If that's still not enough you can heat up them and anneal them to make them a little softer.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  33. #12793
    Active Member Two Rings tirefire's Avatar
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    Brand was a1cardone. After a warm up drive riding the brakes down a long hill, the leak was no longer visible. Sadly however the pedal is still a bit soft. Bled all four wheels. It's drivable but very unsatisfying. Guess I won't send the core back yet.. thanks

  34. #12794
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    would it be a waste of money to throw 4 new coils at the car?

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-nfis-ori.../06b998115red/

    aka "throwing parts at it"
    aka "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

    would there be any benefit at high miles?



    Looks nice. But is that it? Just looks?

  35. #12795
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    Just tried to pop my hood after taking the car to work and while it pops open, the latch to release the hood catch won't release all the way so I can actually open the hood. If I push it down it seems to latch but can't open it. Is there a way to get the hood open from that position without breaking that latch? Thinking about it the car might have been backed into as I was parked in front of my house (I did notice that the broken headlight washer that I found and place backed on the bumper was about a foot from the car the other day. I just assumed it blew off from wind but now wondering if that was the case).

    Just got it home and after releasing the handle inside and a nice swift yank of the hood itself the hood opened. Latch mechanism attached to the hood seems a bit stiff, but no real point of reference to compare to. Do these tend to go bad or need lube as well?
    Last edited by my1stturbo; 12-31-2018 at 03:50 PM.

  36. #12796
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
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    CT

    Can an 05 motor be swapped into an 02 chassis without issue? I know there were some changes over the years, just want to be sure it will work.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  37. #12797
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Lower hose supply to heater. Upper hose return from heater. Arrow points to bleeder hole in return hose.


    Just took measurements of both hose after a 40 minute ride. Supply was 128° and return was right at 99/100°. Seem correct?

  38. #12798
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    Does anybody know what bolts/screws are used to secure the door panels?

    I took the passenger rear door panel off to replace a speaker months ago and never put the door panel back on.

    Now I have no clue where I put the hardware...

    -_-
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  39. #12799
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Quote Originally Posted by my1stturbo View Post
    Just took measurements of both hose after a 40 minute ride. Supply was 128° and return was right at 99/100°. Seem correct?
    Definitely not hot enough. If your block is up to temperature the coolant circulating through the heater core should be close to 200°f in order to produce these exiting air temps. Either block temp is down or heater core has poor circulation.

    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  40. #12800
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2008
    AZ Member #
    36828
    Location
    NY

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Definitely not hot enough. If your block is up to temperature the coolant circulating through the heater core should be close to 200°f in order to produce these exiting air temps. Either block temp is down or heater core has poor circulation.

    Thanks old guy. So I should be looking elsewhere I imagine? The water pump was changed with the timing belt about 30k ago. I'll try to bleed again. Anyway to confirm thermostat without pulling it?

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