questions you thought were too dumb to ask

[Mike Tries]

OK, here's a good "too dumb to ask" question. Where, pray tell, the hell is our firewall? I think the firewall is the bit that separates the engine from the battery. It's the metal that has gromets through it to allow the brake booster vacuum line to pass. It ahead of the battery, behind the engine. It's the bit you keep hitting your hand on when you're trying to access the back of the cylinder head. It is NOT, behind the battery. It does not separate the battery from the passenger compartment. Am I correct?

Why do I ask? SCCA says I have to do my best to prevent flames from intruding into the passenger compartment from the engine bay. I think that means ensuring the thing that I think is the firewall is intact and the grommets there are functioning well. It is, and they are. I do not think that means I have to seal off the HVAC filter inlet, or the ECU entry point.

[willemml]

OK, here's a good "too dumb to ask" question. Where, pray tell, the hell is our firewall?

I am also curious...

I also have a question: does anyone have pictures of how the bumper rebar attaches to the front bumper? I am trying to decide between the ER Sport and Competition FMICs, unfortunately the Sport is out of stock but I was offered a deal on the "basic" FMIC kit (you have to trim the rebar, instead of replacing it). Trying to decide on whether or not to wait for the Sport to be back in stock, Competition seems overkill for a k04. I might go water meth depending on how successful my DIY tuning is.

[Mike Tries]

Funny you should ask... if nobody responds before later tonight (and if I remember... heh...) I'll snap a couple pictures of the inside of my bumper for you. I've got it off for some "persuasive maintenance" involving a saw at the moment. I need to get that done this weekend so I can get the thing back on before I lose all the fasteners like a doofus.

Can you document your DIY tuning process as you go through it? I know Gunnnarrrr is doing some tuning at the moment, and so am I. Perhaps we can share notes. I know there's a whole bunch of very technical work documented on nefmoto, but it might be fun to see some of it over here, too. I don't necessarily mean go pull binaries and generate xdf files, but it would be a cool read to see how it goes for you and what you decide to do.

What are your thoughts on the dual side-mount intercooler setup from the B7?

[willemml]

Funny you should ask... if nobody responds before later tonight (and if I remember... heh...) I'll snap a couple pictures of the inside of my bumper for you. I've got it off for some "persuasive maintenance" involving a saw at the moment. I need to get that done this weekend so I can get the thing back on before I lose all the fasteners like a doofus.

Can you document your DIY tuning process as you go through it? I know Gunnnarrrr is doing some tuning at the moment, and so am I. Perhaps we can share notes. I know there's a whole bunch of very technical work documented on nefmoto, but it might be fun to see some of it over here, too. I don't necessarily mean go pull binaries and generate xdf files, but it would be a cool read to see how it goes for you and what you decide to do.

Yeah I will definitely document it, I will likely start a thread on here once I actually start/have some logs. I have already been building up a decent set of research notes while I am waiting for my spare ECU to arrive. That should get here tomorrow!
I've also mostly finished writing my own tuning software in the mean time, because I wasn't a huge fan of TunerPro being closed source and windows only.

What are your thoughts on the dual side-mount intercooler setup from the B7?

I actually found a pair at a junk yard a few months ago, tucked them back into the car I found them in though, they weren't in the most amazing condition. I really like the idea, but am not a fan of the plastic end tanks.
If/when I install my FMIC I will post some pictures of the current state of my OEM SMIC, its held together by JBWeld and bailing wire because it kept exploding.

[Mike Tries]

I sent you a PM with some bumper pics.

[willemml]

Thanks, definitely helpful, I will be ordering an ER Comp FMIC as soon as Fred sends me the invoice. And I'll also be going and buying an angle grinder

Tried (and apparently failed again) to tighten down my turbo -> downpipe exhaust nuts. It's definitely a little quieter now, but still lots of popping sounds at high rpm. Maybe I need a new gasket?

ECU arrived today, now I just have to actually modify a bin to have proper fueling for big injectors and I can see if the thing works! That will be a Monday task though.

[DG2004]

What does it mean when your temp guage stays pegged on high and you’ve already replaced the cooling system and sensors? And the thermostat still won’t open.

[DG2004]

What does it mean when your temp guage stays pegged on high and you’ve already replaced the cooling system and sensors? And the thermostat still won’t open.

[Mike Tries]

How do you get the brake master cylinder reservoir onto the master cylinder? I cannot push it onto the seals. It just takes too much force, and I'm afraid to break something. There's lots of brake fluid all over everything, so it should be well lubricated. Any advice?

Edit: I figured it out. The answer was try real hard for like two hours, then give up. Kind of. I swapped the rear seal, which was the one making me hate the car, for the rear seal in the old master cylinder. Then it poppes in. Weird.

[codemode]

My brake fluid level keeps increasing and eventually shoots out and makes a mess around my reservoir. What the hell is going on? It started happening a little while after replacing my front pads and rotors.

[Mike Tries]

When does it shoot out? It sounds like it's overfilled. It would be overfilled if you added fluid before changing your pads. When you pushed the pistons back in, they pushed fluid back into the reservoir. Fluids expand a little bit when warm warm up, so if it's happening while you're driving, then it could just be that.

Make sure you clean that brake fluid off of the surrounding surfaces. It eats paint, and I think, corrodes brake boosters.

[DG2004]

Does a used body control module need to be cloned to the original if it’s the same part number?

[codemode]

When does it shoot out? It sounds like it's overfilled. It would be overfilled if you added fluid before changing your pads. When you pushed the pistons back in, they pushed fluid back into the reservoir. Fluids expand a little bit when warm warm up, so if it's happening while you're driving, then it could just be that.

Make sure you clean that brake fluid off of the surrounding surfaces. It eats paint, and I think, corrodes brake boosters.

Yeah, the thing is, it has happened at least 5 times already. Can you really overfill it by that much? Sure, I wipe it regularly and wash it in brake cleaner.

[codemode]

Does a used body control module need to be cloned to the original if it’s the same part number?

If you’re talking about a BCM and not a CCM then maybe. If you don’t care about an incorrect VIN error message, then it will work just fine. It all depends on your car’s equipment. Some things might not work, such as headlight washers, other common things will work just fine.

[DG2004]

If you’re talking about a BCM and not a CCM then maybe. If you don’t care about an incorrect VIN error message, then it will work just fine. It all depends on your car’s equipment. Some things might not work, such as headlight washers, other common things will work just fine.

Thanks. It’s more of I want to test it before I have it cloned thing. I’ve already got one out of the junk yard with the same part number and it didn’t work.

[DG2004]

It’s a 2004 b6 a4. If that makes any difference.

[codemode]

It’s a 2004 b6 a4. If that makes any difference.

As long as it is a highline version it should work. Sorry I forgot to mention that.
B7 ones should work as well, you would just have to swap some wires around.

I’ve replaced a BCM as well, it worked out of the box (revision E to F), in order to gain extra features.

[Mike Tries]

Yeah, the thing is, it has happened at least 5 times already. Can you really overfill it by that much? Sure, I wipe it regularly and wash it in brake cleaner.

Oh, it keeps happening? Usually, you'd pop those pistons back in, the fluid would overflow, and you'd be done with it. Unless you left it over-full and the heat expansion was pushing it out... but I'd only expect that to happen once. You know... it'd heat up, expand, push itself out, and that'd be it. Have you tried sucking fluid out of the reservoir to get it back to the appropriate fill level?

[codemode]

Oh, it keeps happening? Usually, you'd pop those pistons back in, the fluid would overflow, and you'd be done with it. Unless you left it over-full and the heat expansion was pushing it out... but I'd only expect that to happen once. You know... it'd heat up, expand, push itself out, and that'd be it. Have you tried sucking fluid out of the reservoir to get it back to the appropriate fill level?

The fluid level would be at the very top, then I’d simply remove the excess and it would happen again. I’ll keep an eye on it, but it cannot keep rising infinitely. I’d have to run out at some point. Is air intrusion a likely scenario? I suppose the brake fluid would leak out and not let any air in.

[Danisson]

I'm looking for an auto-dimming rear-view mirror for quite some time. I'm wondering what is the part no. for the one with the compass included since I found 8E0857511 4PK but on many of these it's not specified; while on others it says "KOMAPSS" on the sticker. (same parts though) So it'll be highly appreciated if you could help here.

[codemode]

There is no way to know for sure (that I know of). I’ve searched for quite some time looking to do a retrofit and that sticker is your only hope. If it doesn’t say that then it doesn’t have one. They are quite expensive as well.

[kwilson]

I'm looking for an auto-dimming rear-view mirror for quite some time. I'm wondering what is the part no. for the one with the compass included since I found 8E0857511 4PK but on many of these it's not specified; while on others it says "KOMAPSS" on the sticker. (same parts though) So it'll be highly appreciated if you could help here.

I have a spare one of these at home. I'll check for a part number in the next day or so for you. You're in the EU right? Shipping would probably be cost prohibitive.

You also may need the cleat for the windshield. I think they are different.

[Gunnarrrrr]

I'm looking for an auto-dimming rear-view mirror for quite some time. I'm wondering what is the part no. for the one with the compass included since I found 8E0857511 4PK but on many of these it's not specified; while on others it says "KOMAPSS" on the sticker. (same parts though) So it'll be highly appreciated if you could help here.

I’ve got a few of these if you need one. I’ve got both colors as well, the A4 and S4 versions. Assuming you aren’t referring to the black-only one that doesn’t support side mirror auto dimming, but I have those as well. should be about $20 to ship to europe.

as far as the mounting plates on the windshield, they’re all the same across C5 and B6’s. Only the B7’s are different, as those are bigger to account for a rain sensor. I’m assuming you don’t have a B7 windshield retrofitted.

8E0857511A 4PK





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[Danisson]

Wow ! Thank y'all ! Really appreciate it... PM'd ;)

[lowlife89]

My crank pulley is stuck, it has zero play. I tried smacking it with a plank, but it didn't budge. The frontend is still on the car as I'm afraid I'll tear off the radiator outlets if I try to remove the hoses.

Thinking I should:

1) smack it some more with a rubber mallet
2) use a pick around the bolt
3) spray "PB blaster" everywhere

Any more ideas?

(pic isn't mine)

[Puddin Tane]

My crank pulley is stuck, it has zero play. I tried smacking it with a plank, but it didn't budge. The frontend is still on the car as I'm afraid I'll tear off the radiator outlets if I try to remove the hoses.

Thinking I should:

1) smack it some more with a rubber mallet
2) use a pick around the bolt
3) spray "PB blaster" everywhere

Any more ideas?

(pic isn't mine)

ruh roh. How bad are your winters there? If that doesn't work you'd best suck it up and remove the carrier so you can really get at it, then put static strain on it with a big puller and do 1-2-3. If that risks replacing the radiator, so be it.

[Mike Tries]

I had to smack mine with a rubber mallet for a bit. I approached it from behind and smacked it a couple times. I'd rotate the crank a bit and smack it again. I just kept doing that until it popped loose. I did this with the front end installed, like you're trying to do. Just be persistent.

[lowlife89]

It has seen a lot of snow and rain in South Germany, should be ok now in East Europe. Every bolt is rusted to hell.

I think I remember this pulley wobbling a little bit. If it doesn't go off, I'll smack the f out of it with a hammer and get a new one for $60.
Is Febi ok?