Audizine - An Automotive Enthusiast Community

Page 316 of 316 FirstFirst ... 216266306314315316
Results 12,601 to 12,631 of 12631
  1. #12601
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 13 2015
    AZ Member #
    348695
    Location
    NS

    Guest-only advertisement. Register or Log In now!
    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    I did some research into this, and it seems that normal loctite (blue/red/etc) is definitely not recommended for plastic. So that thread sealant most likely is not compatible either (as stated). My apologies, I just assumed it was okay since it was packaged with the phenix cups. However, I think PTFE liquid thread sealant would be the safest bet. I've seen OG recommend PTFE tape on a few threads asking about injector seats, but I feel the liquid sealant would be better/easier...



    Pretty sure this is "the white shit"
    Thanks. Yes, I definitely need sealant to fill those damaged threads.
    It seems that I can that Permatex thread sealant locally, but I still wonder whether that Hi-temp stuff would be OK to use. Permatex doesn't mention anything in their TSD about not using it on plastic. The main ingredient is Dimethacrylate ester vs polymeric for the liquid sealant.
    I'm not a chemist, so I have no idea what the difference is. But I'll play it safe and go with @MmmBoost suggestion.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  2. #12602
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 07 2011
    AZ Member #
    73592
    My Garage
    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
    Location
    CT

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    Is it possible that a clutch that isn't properly bled can cause harsh shifting?

    I'm running out of options at this point.

    Ever since I bought the car, the shifts have never been smooth for the first 3 gears. The 1-2 shift is especially brutal.

    I've changed the tranny fluid to ravenol (I forget the exact weight, but I believe old guy made a thread about it), I've replaced the clutch and flywheel with the single mass kit from JHM, replaced the snub mount (and adjusted it), replaced the big rear diff mount, and installed ECS tuning diff mount inserts in the tiny mounts.

    Still, random harsh shifts.

    I've noticed, though, that randomly the shifts are buttery smooth. And when they are, the clutch pedal is super stiff. Normally it feels pretty meh.

    I've also replaced the clutch master and slave, so basically every piece of the clutch system is new. I blew out the stock clutch slave cylinder and gravity bled the replacement, which isn't the proper way.

    My gut says that air in the clutch lines shouldn't really make a difference, but that's basically the only thing left.

    Motor mounts and tranny mount looked good when I pulled the tranny to change the clutch.

    Opinions?
    Did you replace the pivot parts in the transmission as well?
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  3. #12603
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 05 2014
    AZ Member #
    210984
    Location
    Adelaide Australia

    Yes could be a bent / deformed thrust bearing yoke causing the random shift issues.

  4. #12604
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 07 2011
    AZ Member #
    73592
    My Garage
    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
    Location
    CT

    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    Did you replace the pivot parts in the transmission as well?
    Quote Originally Posted by Jet08 View Post
    Yes could be a bent / deformed thrust bearing yoke causing the random shift issues.
    The clutch fork could also be the culprit. The parts I'm referring to are #'s 2, 3, 8 and 9 in this picture:



    Here's what mine looked like when I dropped the transmission:





    Here's a video of how my car was acting so you can see if it relates:


    Link to thread if you're interested: Click
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  5. #12605
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 05 2014
    AZ Member #
    210984
    Location
    Adelaide Australia

    I was talking part # 10 for reference.

  6. #12606
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    I replaced the throw out bearing, but none of the other pieces. The bolt with the ball head thing for the fork was still nice and round. The throw out bearing fell out in pieces when I pulled the tranny out. I was really hoping that was the problem.

    The stock flywheel was toast, too, so I was hoping that was a big part of the problem, but there was only a minor improvement when I went to the JHM flywheel.

    I'll take a look at that video and that thread, thanks.

    EDIT: That video looked crazy hard to shift! Glad you got that fixed. But my tranny shifts nice and smooth, with the exception of 1st every now and then. I'll have to shift to 2nd and then back to 1st sometimes because it doesn't want to go in. I figured that was just synchros.

    What I mean by harsh shifting is the engagement. When I let out the clutch, it almost always causes like a bucking action. I usually have to let the clutch out suuuuper slow to have a smooth shift. The only time I can let the clutch out normally is when the pedal is nice and stiff.

    Pretty weird...
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  7. #12607
    Established Member Two Rings Ol Dirty Noodle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    84604
    My Garage
    Raccoons and Feces
    Location
    Nassau/LI/NY(the poor part)

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    I replaced the throw out bearing, but none of the other pieces. The bolt with the ball head thing for the fork was still nice and round. The throw out bearing fell out in pieces when I pulled the tranny out. I was really hoping that was the problem.

    The stock flywheel was toast, too, so I was hoping that was a big part of the problem, but there was only a minor improvement when I went to the JHM flywheel.

    I'll take a look at that video and that thread, thanks.

    EDIT: That video looked crazy hard to shift! Glad you got that fixed. But my tranny shifts nice and smooth, with the exception of 1st every now and then. I'll have to shift to 2nd and then back to 1st sometimes because it doesn't want to go in. I figured that was just synchros.

    What I mean by harsh shifting is the engagement. When I let out the clutch, it almost always causes like a bucking action. I usually have to let the clutch out suuuuper slow to have a smooth shift. The only time I can let the clutch out normally is when the pedal is nice and stiff.

    Pretty weird...
    That sounds more like your mounts need to be replaced

  8. #12608
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    I guess I could replace the engine and tranny mounts, they're the only drivetrain mounts I haven't replaced. They just looked good when I pulled the tranny so I figured the problem was elsewhere.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  9. #12609
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    110766
    Location
    CA

    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    Did you replace the pivot parts in the transmission as well?
    He says gravity bled. I thought the clutch slave has to be pressure bled, at 15psi or more?

    Either way, what if you're right. What if there's broken pivot parts, AND air in the slave?

    If you have air in the system, isn't a way to test that by pumping the clutch pedal fast 15-20 times, and then driving to see if that temporarily makes it feel better, only for a short period of time? And then returns back to shitty.

    However, I imagine doing that a lot is not ideal. A car is not meant to do that.
    The clutch pedal works by hydraulically operating pressure plate fingers. The more you bend those, the more likely it is to bend out of spec, eventually. Hence why they get replaced around 100k miles.

    Same reason why they say to sit in neutral when stopped (such as at a light), instead of holding the clutch down.
    I know the pedal may feel easy, but that's just because it uses the magic and power of hydraulic fluid, to operate a strong pressure plate.



    I'm not sure what lubricant(s)/grease(s) to use on those moving parts either, such as the pivot ball. I believe ELSAwin says to coat it in some, as well as the dimple on the fork it sits in.
    And the input shaft spline, with grease applied by a toothbrush thinly, so that it's not too thick and gets flung outwards onto the clutch mating surfaces when it spins up to speed.

    Does anyone know if any of the shifter ball sockets ever develop problems? I think they're plastic. Are they supposed to have any play in them?
    I think there's at least two. One that connects at the transmission, with an orange protective boot on it. And another, at the shifter, under the shift knob boot.
    I know mine appears to have a significant amount of play up and down, but I've kept driving on that.



    Quote Originally Posted by customa4 View Post
    The clutch fork could also be the culprit. The parts I'm referring to are #'s 2, 3, 8 and 9 in this picture:



    Here's what mine looked like when I dropped the transmission:





    Here's a video of how my car was acting so you can see if it relates:


    Link to thread if you're interested: Click
    The previous owner of my car said he changed the clutch. I don't think he put a new fork and pivot ball parts though, while he was in there.
    Wondering if I will need to pull out a whole heavy transmission just to replace a $3 part.

    Feels Good

    edit: just looked in ELSAwin,
    it says:
    - Release Bearing: Replace loud bearings
    - Clutch Release Lever: Coat recess with copper paste

    Am curious to know how difficult pulling the transmission is on the floor, how long it takes,
    if it's better to drop the transmission using a jack or pull the whole drivetrain out (attached to engine)
    and if special tools are required, such as taller jack-stands
    Last edited by Spike00513; 10-05-2018 at 09:17 PM.

  10. #12610
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    I originally pulled the trans with a floor jack. It was a pain in the ass because my jack stands barely went high enough to fit the trans out, so I basically had to pull the trans out, lower the jack, take the trans off the jack, and then wiggle the trans out from under the car.

    Pulling the engine and tranny together was easier, but there were still things to watch out for.

    Pretty sure I ruined my flex pipes in my exhaust because I left them connected to the cats. They got bent/flexed pretty good trying to get over the subframe.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  11. #12611
    Established Member Two Rings Ol Dirty Noodle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 30 2011
    AZ Member #
    84604
    My Garage
    Raccoons and Feces
    Location
    Nassau/LI/NY(the poor part)

    Either option is better than a fwd tranny swap lol, if all you’re doing is servicing those small components drop the tranny, do the 5-20 minutes of work and shove it back in. No need to add an extra 2 hours pulling/putting back the entire drivetrain

  12. #12612
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    110766
    Location
    CA

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    I originally pulled the trans with a floor jack. It was a pain in the ass because my jack stands barely went high enough to fit the trans out, so I basically had to pull the trans out, lower the jack, take the trans off the jack, and then wiggle the trans out from under the car.

    Pulling the engine and tranny together was easier, but there were still things to watch out for.

    Pretty sure I ruined my flex pipes in my exhaust because I left them connected to the cats. They got bent/flexed pretty good trying to get over the subframe.
    Would it help to cut square pieces of wood, and stack them to place underneath jack-stands? to increase height a bit
    Solid wood. Not like particle-board or something. Since it has to handle the weight of a car.

    I mean, the manual says not to bend them past 30 degrees. But maybe one way to know is to simply see if they leak exhaust or not, as a result? To know if they tore open a bit or not.
    Unless you're saying the outer mesh is torn? Because there's two parts in them. The outer mesh, but also a ribbed inner section that might still be intact without rips.

    I wonder if a rolling surface would help pull the trans out then. Like a skate board, dolly, etc. or even a mover's blanket to slide it out over the floor, instead of bare that could scratch/scrape it.

  13. #12613
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    It helps to just have a jack that goes pretty high. I have a low profile jack that only goes maybe 23" high.

    It's also a pain because I didn't want to crush the side skirt by putting a jack or jack stands anywhere other than the exposed pinch weld.

    You could get pieces of wood, put them in front of the tires, drive up onto them and then jack the car up if the car is that low.

    I just jacked the car up with my low profile jack, put a stand under the frame, and then got a heavy duty jack and jacked the car up higher. But then I was stuck with the stands under the frame because I didn't want to crush the side skirts.

    EDIT: Anyone install the 034 motor and tranny mounts on a 3.0? I'm leary of installing a stiffer tranny mount because of vibrations, but it's cheaper than an OEM mount...
    Last edited by DarkoNova; 10-06-2018 at 12:51 PM.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  14. #12614
    Senior Member Three Rings Gunnarrrrr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 25 2015
    AZ Member #
    322635
    My Garage
    '16 Lexus CT-F, slammed '96 accord ex coupe
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA

    What are these two washers and where do they go

    I think they came off my transmission mounts or my subframe or something1538953316580.jpeg

    Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Audizine mobile app
    I'm a car guy, I do car stuff.
    Current project: Garrett Big Boofer™ GT28-powered 2005 Audi Car With Wheels®
    Currently putting down about ~4 wheels or so

  15. #12615
    Active Member Two Rings Stock B6's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 25 2018
    AZ Member #
    419424
    My Garage
    2002 Audi A4 1.8TQM
    Location
    Champlin, MN

    Alright so when people go big top mount turbo I see plenty of people just smack a filter right on the end of the turbo. Number one, how do you avoid the TIP and all the sensors (do they have to be coded out)? Two, are there any downsides to this?
    APR Stage I+ // TT225 Injectors // ECS Tuning DP // EBay FMIC // Muffler Cutouts // Spectre Warm Air Intake // Stage II RS4 Clutch & LWFW // S5 Peelers // USP Front Conversion // Painted Lower Valences

  16. #12616
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2013
    AZ Member #
    109199
    Location
    CNY

    Quote Originally Posted by Stock B6 View Post
    Alright so when people go big top mount turbo I see plenty of people just smack a filter right on the end of the turbo. Number one, how do you avoid the TIP and all the sensors (do they have to be coded out)? Two, are there any downsides to this?
    The only sensors in the TIP are the N75 and MAF. But yes, people will have tunes written that don’t rely on those sensors.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  17. #12617
    Active Member Two Rings Stock B6's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 25 2018
    AZ Member #
    419424
    My Garage
    2002 Audi A4 1.8TQM
    Location
    Champlin, MN

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you need the N75 to control the wastegate? Guessing this is better for external wastegate setups?
    APR Stage I+ // TT225 Injectors // ECS Tuning DP // EBay FMIC // Muffler Cutouts // Spectre Warm Air Intake // Stage II RS4 Clutch & LWFW // S5 Peelers // USP Front Conversion // Painted Lower Valences

  18. #12618
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gosser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    116640
    My Garage
    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
    Location
    Ottawa

    I’ve removed a CVT from a 1.8t and installed a 5spd Quattro gearbox while on jacks and on my back, solo. It wasn’t that bad. The car was jacked on all four corner about 20” up. Once the trans was loose I used two jacks to pull it out and down. Then pushed it off on to some card board and dragged it out. I thought about a transmission dolley, but I wouldn’t be able to have pulled it all out together. Loading the new gearbox in alone was the reverse, getting it onto the jacks while under the car was the only struggle.

    I wouldnt bother removing it with the motor, bell housing bolts are real easy.

  19. #12619
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2013
    AZ Member #
    109199
    Location
    CNY

    questions you thought were too dumb to ask

    Quote Originally Posted by Stock B6 View Post
    Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you need the N75 to control the wastegate? Guessing this is better for external wastegate setups?
    I’m not totally sure. I know some guys run the N75 in parallel with a MBC.

    Quote Originally Posted by Gosser View Post
    I’ve removed a CVT from a 1.8t and installed a 5spd Quattro gearbox while on jacks and on my back, solo. It wasn’t that bad. The car was jacked on all four corner about 20” up. Once the trans was loose I used two jacks to pull it out and down. Then pushed it off on to some card board and dragged it out. I thought about a transmission dolley, but I wouldn’t be able to have pulled it all out together. Loading the new gearbox in alone was the reverse, getting it onto the jacks while under the car was the only struggle.

    I wouldnt bother removing it with the motor, bell housing bolts are real easy.
    When I helped my friend do a clutch in his B7 we pulled the trans using a transmission dolly. I couldn’t imagine trying to do it with just jacks. We had the car jacked up on stands which sat on cinderblocks. Gave us the additional clearance to slide the trans out of the way.

    But if I had to do it again, I’d pull it with the motor, trying to line the trans back up and seated was such a pain. But that’s just me 🤷🏼*♂️
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  20. #12620
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 07 2013
    AZ Member #
    107073
    Location
    Germantown, Maryland

    Anyone know the trick to getting the rear seat screw aligned?? I took it out when changing my headliner and haven't been able to get the seats to lock years later. Is there an exact process the Haynes or Bentley manual have to get the screw to align properly?

    The seat will go back and sit flush it just won't stay "locked" meaning I can easily pull it down and it will just come down.
    Brilliant Red 2004 A4 1.8T quattro Ultrasport
    Frankenturbo F21L | Motoza Tuning | FMIC | Test Pipe | Bosch 550cc | 710n DV | Podi Boost Gauge | 21 PSI

    Dolphin Gray A4 1.8T quattro 2004
    Brilliant Red A4 2.0T quattro 2007
    DIY - A4 B6 Boost Leak Test

  21. #12621
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 13 2015
    AZ Member #
    348695
    Location
    NS

    Quote Originally Posted by RDA990 View Post
    Anyone know the trick to getting the rear seat screw aligned?? I took it out when changing my headliner and haven't been able to get the seats to lock years later. Is there an exact process the Haynes or Bentley manual have to get the screw to align properly?

    The seat will go back and sit flush it just won't stay "locked" meaning I can easily pull it down and it will just come down.
    Is the locking mechanism on the seat back working properly? Try adding some whiteout onto it and pish it on and see by the marking if it's making full contact with the pin.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  22. #12622
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 07 2013
    AZ Member #
    107073
    Location
    Germantown, Maryland

    Quote Originally Posted by eljay View Post
    Is the locking mechanism on the seat back working properly? Try adding some whiteout onto it and pish it on and see by the marking if it's making full contact with the pin.
    Yea it is. I even tested it out by removing the screw and manually locking it, it works as it's supposed to. It just seems like it has to be aligned very precise for it, I just thought there would be a trick to make it work.

    I'll try using whiteout to see if it can help me out.
    Brilliant Red 2004 A4 1.8T quattro Ultrasport
    Frankenturbo F21L | Motoza Tuning | FMIC | Test Pipe | Bosch 550cc | 710n DV | Podi Boost Gauge | 21 PSI

    Dolphin Gray A4 1.8T quattro 2004
    Brilliant Red A4 2.0T quattro 2007
    DIY - A4 B6 Boost Leak Test

  23. #12623
    Established Member Two Rings APC123's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 05 2017
    AZ Member #
    392558
    Location
    Wilmington Delaware

    If I have previously bled my brakes (with pressure bleeder) and there is 0 air in the lines, confirmed. Do I have to rebleed lines to the extent I did before when doing the full bleed job? I am switching over to B7 calipers? Or should I just disconnect B6 calipers, plug and play B7’s and then open bleeder screw on B7 caliper after install. I’m really not tryna use the whole pressure bleeder again, it was extremely messy, aaaand it is at my house in Delaware, and I am at school in SC.. so I’d have to get it mailed to me. DM me if you can

  24. #12624
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 13 2015
    AZ Member #
    348695
    Location
    NS

    Quote Originally Posted by APC123 View Post
    If I have previously bled my brakes (with pressure bleeder) and there is 0 air in the lines, confirmed. Do I have to rebleed lines to the extent I did before when doing the full bleed job? I am switching over to B7 calipers? Or should I just disconnect B6 calipers, plug and play B7’s and then open bleeder screw on B7 caliper after install. I’m really not tryna use the whole pressure bleeder again, it was extremely messy, aaaand it is at my house in Delaware, and I am at school in SC.. so I’d have to get it mailed to me. DM me if you can
    Sorry to say, but yes, you should. Otherwise, you risk pulling air into the lines. Gravity will not fill those calipers properly.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  25. #12625
    Veteran Member Four Rings Willënskraft's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 14 2011
    AZ Member #
    82575
    My Garage
    2002 Audi A4 1.8TQ, 2007 Audi A4 2.0TQ
    Location
    Norcross, GA

    I may have asked this before, but can’t remember. What do you guys use to grease or lubricate the window regulators?
    "Beep beeeep bloop boop" - R2D2

  26. #12626
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    110766
    Location
    CA

    Quote Originally Posted by Willënskraft View Post
    I may have asked this before, but can’t remember. What do you guys use to grease or lubricate the window regulators?
    Those are supposed to be greased? Oops. I merely swapped in a functioning used one to replace one that had a broken/snapped cable. I do recall seeing some grease in there though.
    I thought this was just a thing where people use the regulator until it breaks, and then install new ones.

  27. #12627
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2008
    AZ Member #
    36828
    Location
    NY

    Safe to use Prestone Radiator Flush on the car? Had heater core replaced a couple of years ago but don't think they flushed coolant and now there is no heat again. Thinking of flushing the system with the Prestone and then trying to use a tool to blow out the heater core (might let the core sit with CLR too) with air/water before I look at replacing the core again. Will also scan HVAC for blend door issues. Any write-ups on getting to those BTW?

  28. #12628
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 13 2015
    AZ Member #
    348695
    Location
    NS

    Quote Originally Posted by my1stturbo View Post
    Safe to use Prestone Radiator Flush on the car? Had heater core replaced a couple of years ago but don't think they flushed coolant and now there is no heat again. Thinking of flushing the system with the Prestone and then trying to use a tool to blow out the heater core (might let the core sit with CLR too) with air/water before I look at replacing the core again. Will also scan HVAC for blend door issues. Any write-ups on getting to those BTW?
    Yep, that Preston flush works well. I've used it on old guy's recommendation.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  29. #12629
    Veteran Member Four Rings DownhillA4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 23 2008
    AZ Member #
    30226
    Location
    90210

    SUSPENSION QUESTION:

    Hey all, so weird. The past 6-7 drives in the B6 over the past year i've had super bad rubbing only on my driverside. Today proved it after 100 miles of spirited driving with half a tank of gas, 150lbs. driver and 150lbs. passenger and nothing in the trunk. Only the driverside wheel well gets wicked bad rubbing on right turns and not a single rub on the passenger side wheel well. I've been on Bilstein Sport Shocks and H&R Sport Springs since 2010 and the same 18x9, 30ET 235/40/18 for a couple years... what changed? Yes, i've driven the car harder than today in the past which is why I know something is wrong. Never used to have the tire scraped the inner fender this much except huge dips on the highway where both front wheels rub. I'm going to pull the driver wheel next week and see if the shock is maybe blown or the coil snapped... not sure what else would of changed to cause this issue only on one side.
    Tri-state Foliage Cruise 2018
    IG: @downhill_a4
    @I_like_your_box

    "If you are a true automotive enthusiast whom loves their car,
    you learn to catch rides to parties and leave your car at home."- dougyfresh

  30. #12630
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 26 2017
    AZ Member #
    410350
    My Garage
    2014 Hyundai Veloster
    Location
    Washington

    Quote Originally Posted by DownhillA4 View Post
    SUSPENSION QUESTION:

    Hey all, so weird. The past 6-7 drives in the B6 over the past year i've had super bad rubbing only on my driverside. Today proved it after 100 miles of spirited driving with half a tank of gas, 150lbs. driver and 150lbs. passenger and nothing in the trunk. Only the driverside wheel well gets wicked bad rubbing on right turns and not a single rub on the passenger side wheel well. I've been on Bilstein Sport Shocks and H&R Sport Springs since 2010 and the same 18x9, 30ET 235/40/18 for a couple years... what changed? Yes, i've driven the car harder than today in the past which is why I know something is wrong. Never used to have the tire scraped the inner fender this much except huge dips on the highway where both front wheels rub. I'm going to pull the driver wheel next week and see if the shock is maybe blown or the coil snapped... not sure what else would of changed to cause this issue only on one side.
    I'm having the same deal with both my rear shocks being blown. I had one paid of skiis and a bag in the back and it was rubbing so I checked the shocks and they were completely blown. So hopefully it's just that so it's an easy fix!

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Audizine mobile app

  31. #12631
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2008
    AZ Member #
    36828
    Location
    NY

    Quote Originally Posted by eljay View Post
    Yep, that Preston flush works well. I've used it on old guy's recommendation.
    Thanks. Going to try flushing it out and then blowing out the heater core.

Page 316 of 316 FirstFirst ... 216266306314315316


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  


    © 2001-2018 Audizine, Audizine.com, and Driverzines.com
    Audizine is an independently owned and operated automotive enthusiast community and news website.
    Audi and the Audi logo(s) are copyright/trademark Audi AG. Audizine is not endorsed by or affiliated with Audi AG.