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  1. #12281
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeekendDriver View Post
    Hmm. Did you know there is special grease to treat the hub-rim mounting plane when installing the wheel, and another special grease for the bolts? I din't!

  2. #12282
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeekendDriver View Post
    Hmm. Did you know there is special grease to treat the hub-rim mounting plane when installing the wheel, and another special grease for the bolts? I din't!
    Well then. Now I'm gonna have to pop into my ETKA and track that PN down, in wheel diagram section, to see what it is and if it's worth getting.

    IDK if the thing to use on wheel/hub interface is anti-sieze, or if that can throw off the straightness by having it not mate flush.
    Because anti-seize is just a bunch of metal powder of your choice, that's in liquid form from a soap or something. That can dry out.
    Whether it be aluminum, nickel, copper, etc.

    and galling might be possible; corrosion from dissimilar metals sandwiched up against eachother. An aluminum wheel against a hub that may be steel or something.
    Steel is magnetic while aluminum is not; that's one way to test and figure out what is what.

    Resulting in things like ugly corrosion on the surface, and the wheel getting stuck on the hub, needing to remove it with a hammer or pry-bar.

    Cleaning the area up is a PITA and I'm not looking forward to it, since I may have to put new brake rotors some time in the future.

    I found a strong white powder build-up on my lug bolts that was hard to remove; I ended up cleaning them with a wire wheel. So IDK if a grease product is meant to be on the threads, or ball seat part of the lug bolt head.
    I assume Audi took into consideration K-factor, to not alter the torque spec. Because a lubed wet bolt may tighten differently than a dry one, because it slides easier. Amplifying the torque.
    So when you *think* you're doing 96 ft lbs or whatever on the bolt, it's actually applying more if it's wet/lubricated.

    Supposedly too much torque on a lug bolt can do things like warp a brake disc causing pedal pulsation, due to it being over-tightened. Or strip threads in the hub.
    I say supposedly because 1. I've only heard this and 2. I never really worry about it or deal with such things, because I simply torque to around 96 ft lbs and then get on my life, until next time.
    Which is actually unfortunately often, because I hear quattro cars need a tire rotation every damn 5k miles/oil change to make the tires last a bit longer and keep the tread even all around.

  3. #12283
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Oct 02 2015
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    Sorry, should have posted the part numbers. The first substance is D322000A2, a wax spray, apparently. Upon research I've found out that copper paste is often used for the mating surfaces for steel rims, and aluminum paste for alloy rings (don't ever use copper with aluminum, they form a galvanic pair!). I also hear that there is electrically neutral zink paste and ceramic paste which is best for this. Never seen tyre shops applying anything to the mating surfaces, or even just brushing the rust off. Not even the better organized, more expensive shops in my area.

    And the second substance is G052109A2, composition unknown. Looks like it could be glue, not grease.

  4. #12284
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Feb 09 2013
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    CNY
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    Is there a part number for the little spring on the back of the wheel center caps?

    I seem to have misplaced one of them during the clutch job. I see ECS sells the whole cap with the spring, but I don't want to spend $40 when my cap is fine.
    An option would be to buy a set of cheap eBay caps and harvest the springs from those. However, I've noticed that the eBay caps use a smaller diameter spring that OEM caps do.

    Quote Originally Posted by WeekendDriver View Post
    And the second substance is G052109A2, composition unknown. Looks like it could be glue, not grease.
    It appears to have the same application as the wax spray, except applied using the tube and not sprayed on.

    Clicky Click
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  5. #12285
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    It appears to have the same application as the wax spray, except applied using the tube and not sprayed on.
    Clicky Click
    Indeed, the link confirms your suggestion. I swear I've seen a screenshot from ELSA saying that the lugs should also be treated with something. But I don't have ELSA, and it probably was an older Audi car, not B6.

  6. #12286
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    Man, of course I'd lose something that isn't sold individually.

    Oh well, thanks guys. I'll see if I can rig something up somehow. I don't really want to spend that much money for a spring.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  7. #12287
    Senior Member Three Rings G.AUDI's Avatar
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    Dec 07 2008
    AZ Member #
    36094
    My Garage
    MK6 GTI
    Location
    SGV, CA

    Looking at radiator hoses... Is Rein a good substitute in lieu of the genuine audi brand or should I stick to the OEM?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  8. #12288
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    An option would be to buy a set of cheap eBay caps and harvest the springs from those. However, I've noticed that the eBay caps use a smaller diameter spring that OEM caps do.



    It appears to have the same application as the wax spray, except applied using the tube and not sprayed on.

    Clicky Click
    First time I'm seeing "anti-corrosion wax". I wonder if it's thin enough to not interfere with any fitment. Sounds like it.

    It's a PITA having to clean everything when changing parts on a hub. Especially brake rotors.
    I wonder if this would keep things clean and protected forever. To never have to do it again, only once.

    Unless it has a finite lifespan, if they install it at the factory. And as you can see, it hasn't lasted forever, if so.
    But, it's not like I put it every wheel rotation.
    I DID put anti-sieze during my last brake rotor job, and I'm not sure if there was any pedal pulsation from that or something else later on.

    Maybe warnings are just for bigger debris, like making sure to not accidentally get a small pebble lodged in between the hub and new brake disc when lining it up during an install, that might tilt it off-center and make it spin wavy with detectable run-out.

    I guess that tube is not the cheapest, but also not the most expensive.
    I have other lubricants already like NAPA Sil-Glyde (cheap) that I used for other things. Maybe that'll work, IDK.
    Just to keep things simple and make use of what's already owned, instead of going out of the way to buy more things.

    Unless this is specifically-formulated for the job or something? Versus brake grease, anti-seize, wheel bearing grease, lithium grease, etc.

    https://www.drive2.ru/l/6241124/

    When I cleaned the corrosion off my lug bolts (bench grinder wire wheel), they screwed in by hand smoother,
    but I didn't clean the female receiving threads of the hub, such as with a tool.
    This was cheaper than ordering new ones.



    Quote Originally Posted by G.AUDI View Post
    Looking at radiator hoses... Is Rein a good substitute in lieu of the genuine audi brand or should I stick to the OEM?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
    Which rad hose? Did it break or something?
    Well, in regards to Audi parts in general, I feel like Rein is a familiar brand I've seen multiple times, so I'm not TOO scared of it.
    Victor Reinz, Rein, Pentosin, Febi-Bilstein, Lemforder, etc.

    but I don't know entirely, in terms of a full answer.
    Last edited by Spike00513; Yesterday at 12:05 AM.

  9. #12289
    Veteran Member Four Rings customa4's Avatar
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    Apr 07 2011
    AZ Member #
    73592
    My Garage
    02 A4 1.8T CVT, 02 A4 1.8TQ 5spd, 92 Geo Prizm
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    CT

    Quote Originally Posted by G.AUDI View Post
    Looking at radiator hoses... Is Rein a good substitute in lieu of the genuine audi brand or should I stick to the OEM?

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
    I've deviated from OEM a couple times and have never had good luck. My opinion, stick to OEM.
    K&N-Milltek HFC-Magnaflow Catback-APR snub mount-ER Sport FMIC-Forge TIP-Forge DV-Podi-034 Motor Mounts-034 Rear Sway/End Links-STaSIS Street Sport Coils-Bentley Manual

  10. #12290
    Established Member Two Rings fabric8's Avatar
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    May 14 2013
    AZ Member #
    115170
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    US

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    Is there a part number for the little spring on the back of the wheel center caps?

    I seem to have misplaced one of them during the clutch job. I see ECS sells the whole cap with the spring, but I don't want to spend $40 when my cap is fine.
    If this is the clip you need, you can have it for $5 shipped. I bought this smaller cap by mistake and dont need it. It's the same clip for the larger cap.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    HIS - 2016 Golf R 6MT
    HERS - 2002 B6 A4 1.8TQM Avant | Motoza Stg.1.5 | OEM A6 4.2 17" forged fat fives

  11. #12291
    Established Member Two Rings Nigel_S's Avatar
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    Jan 17 2017
    AZ Member #
    390922
    Location
    Queens,Ny

    Driver side window motor sounds like its working fine when going down but up it sounds as though its struggling. Is there by any chance that its the clip I see mentioned for this problem? Can anyone show me the part# for it if so. Thank you!


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  12. #12292
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Dec 28 2008
    AZ Member #
    36828
    Location
    NY
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    Are there write-ups for changing individual control arms or just uppers or lowers? Have to change out on the arms (passenger rear lower) so wondering what I need to do. On a 1.8

  13. #12293
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Dec 28 2006
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    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
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    Western Maryland
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    Quote Originally Posted by my1stturbo View Post
    Are there write-ups for changing individual control arms or just uppers or lowers? Have to change out on the arms (passenger rear lower) so wondering what I need to do. On a 1.8
    Good info and pics here: Clicky clickŪ
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L mixed flow turbo / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla Exhaust / Eibach ProKit Springs / Koni Yellows / H-Sport Sway Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

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