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  1. #12801
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Dec 28 2006
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    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
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    Western Maryland

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    Quote Originally Posted by my1stturbo View Post
    Thanks old guy. So I should be looking elsewhere I imagine? The water pump was changed with the timing belt about 30k ago. I'll try to bleed again. Anyway to confirm thermostat without pulling it?
    What is the temperature of the upper coolant return hard pipe? If it is around 200°f then you know the block is up to temp but you aren't getting heater core circulation. May need to either flush or replace the heater core.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  2. #12802
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    NY

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    What is the temperature of the upper coolant return hard pipe? If it is around 200°f then you know the block is up to temp but you aren't getting heater core circulation. May need to either flush or replace the heater core.
    Thanks for this. I'll have to check that tomorrow after letting the car warm back up to temp.

  3. #12803
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    What is the temperature of the upper coolant return hard pipe? If it is around 200°f then you know the block is up to temp but you aren't getting heater core circulation. May need to either flush or replace the heater core.
    Just got to check this. Temp in the hard pipe is right at 200° F and the supply is now 145° and the return 120°. The tank was a bit below the MIN line so topped it off the other day. I'll rebleed it just in case it picked up some air. And I guess I'll have to look for a coolant leak somewhere too.

  4. #12804
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Aug 27 2013
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    Philly

    Are these the window regulator clips that fail on our cars? My drivers side window has been VERY crunchy the last few days and now I'm terrified the regulator is about to fail. Just want to have the parts on hand in case she lets go.

    https://www.amazon.com/RegulatorFix-...bxgy_263_img_3

    2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 157k.

  5. #12805
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Dec 28 2006
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    My Garage
    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Looks like the correct one. Clicky click®

    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  6. #12806
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Looks like the correct one. Clicky click®

    alright cool. Thanks for the response. Is this the only clip that tends to fail or is there another? I pulled my fuse today so I dont accidentally put the window down. Right now it doesnt sound good when I touch the switch and the pinch protector feature keeps kicking in so im pretty sure something is about to break in the window.
    2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 157k.

  7. #12807
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    My Garage
    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
    Location
    Western Maryland

    That clip is definately the weak point. Should cure your issue.

    Good luck!
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla / Eibach ProKit / Koni Yellows / H-Sport F&R Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  8. #12808
    Veteran Member Three Rings pablolizarraga's Avatar
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    Jul 18 2014
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    "Hers": SQ5 His: 1966 Ford Mustang Coupe, 1965 Ford Mustang Fastback
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    Los Angeles, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by SJorge3442 View Post
    alright cool. Thanks for the response. Is this the only clip that tends to fail or is there another? I pulled my fuse today so I dont accidentally put the window down. Right now it doesnt sound good when I touch the switch and the pinch protector feature keeps kicking in so im pretty sure something is about to break in the window.
    I had the same crunchy noise but it was the wire that had unspooled. Inexpensive replacement here...
    Rear Passengers Power Window Lift Regulator Replacement for Audi 8E0 839 462 C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TYMP8U..._rzQlCbFHX9XE7


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  9. #12809
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Feb 24 2008
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    Ive been running a test pipe for some time now with the rear 02 sensor coded out in my tune. The test pipe I'm using puts the primary 02 sensor literally millimeters away from the #4 exhaust manifold runner since it sticks straight up and isn't angled off to the side like on the factory cat. Now my question is since I have test pipe and the rear sensor is coded out could I move the primary 02 sensor back to the secondary position? Seems like it wouldn't be an issue but my only concern would be does it really need to be like inches off the turbo? I mean I know guys who tune race cars with the wide band stuck in the tail pipe at the very back of the exhaust or where ever it exits and the seem to get good enough readings so Id imagine moving it like what 14 inches down stream doesn't seem like it would hurt anything and it would eliminate any issue with the sensor being to close to the scorching manifold runner. Thoughts?

    TIA

  10. #12810
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Aug 27 2013
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    121842
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    Philly

    Quote Originally Posted by pablolizarraga View Post
    I had the same crunchy noise but it was the wire that had unspooled. Inexpensive replacement here...
    Rear Passengers Power Window Lift Regulator Replacement for Audi 8E0 839 462 C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TYMP8U..._rzQlCbFHX9XE7


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Ugh. I think I will order the regulator too so that I have everything on hand. Not like its that much money.
    2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 157k.

  11. #12811
    Senior Member Two Rings JAudi23's Avatar
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    Oct 31 2013
    AZ Member #
    127834
    My Garage
    2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro 2004 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T FWD & 2000 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R
    Location
    Milton, ON, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by pablolizarraga View Post
    I had the same crunchy noise but it was the wire that had unspooled. Inexpensive replacement here...
    Rear Passengers Power Window Lift Regulator Replacement for Audi 8E0 839 462 C https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TYMP8U..._rzQlCbFHX9XE7


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    +1 for this. I had to replace the above in my 2004 Avant after the window was crunching and seized.

    Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk
    -----------------------------------
    2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro, Brilliant Black
    ProClip Center Dash | Curt Manufacturing Hitch
    2004 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T FrontTrak, Light Silver Metallic
    Full DIS Retrofit | Auto-Dimming Rearview Mirror Retrofit | Full Width Rain Tray/Battery Cover | Q5 Rear Wiper | B7 Lower Door Blades | Dension Gateway 300 | ProClip Center Dash | Curt Manufacturing Hitch | Thinkware F770 2Ch FHD-FHD Dash Cam | Under Seat Storage

  12. #12812
    Veteran Member Four Rings lunamarA4's Avatar
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    Feb 26 2004
    AZ Member #
    902
    My Garage
    lots of tools and spare parts
    Location
    San Diego, CA

    So the B8 3.0T engine swap has been successful in the B7 platform

    Any one know if this can be done to the B6 platform ?

    Obviously from the mechanical stand point it will be identical but from the electrical point of view what is stopping us from reproducing this in the B6 platform?
    Steering wheel
    and
    Wheels 4 SALE
    RafE |2004 BT White A4 Avant|
    RafE |2002 S8 - fully overhaulled|

  13. #12813
    Established Member Two Rings wangerang's Avatar
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    May 22 2017
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    399878
    Location
    Lafayette

    Quote Originally Posted by lunamarA4 View Post
    So the B8 3.0T engine swap has been successful in the B7 platform

    Any one know if this can be done to the B6 platform ?

    Obviously from the mechanical stand point it will be identical but from the electrical point of view what is stopping us from reproducing this in the B6 platform?
    No way, I didn't know that. I'd like to know too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    1997 A4 1.8TM
    Unitronic Stage 1+ | B&G Lowering Springs | Bilstein TCs | 2.0TSI Coils | ICM Delete | Forge 007 | Facelift Stuff | RS4-Style Grille

  14. #12814
    Veteran Member Four Rings lunamarA4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 26 2004
    AZ Member #
    902
    My Garage
    lots of tools and spare parts
    Location
    San Diego, CA

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Avant-400awhp


    I guess I need to do my searches better
    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...te-B6-content)

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...2985-3-0t-Swap


    Quote Originally Posted by wangerang View Post
    No way, I didn't know that. I'd like to know too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Last edited by lunamarA4; 01-06-2019 at 03:50 AM.
    Steering wheel
    and
    Wheels 4 SALE
    RafE |2004 BT White A4 Avant|
    RafE |2002 S8 - fully overhaulled|

  15. #12815
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Feb 24 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by PSI NRG View Post
    Ive been running a test pipe for some time now with the rear 02 sensor coded out in my tune. The test pipe I'm using puts the primary 02 sensor literally millimeters away from the #4 exhaust manifold runner since it sticks straight up and isn't angled off to the side like on the factory cat. Now my question is since I have test pipe and the rear sensor is coded out could I move the primary 02 sensor back to the secondary position? Seems like it wouldn't be an issue but my only concern would be does it really need to be like inches off the turbo? I mean I know guys who tune race cars with the wide band stuck in the tail pipe at the very back of the exhaust or where ever it exits and the seem to get good enough readings so Id imagine moving it like what 14 inches down stream doesn't seem like it would hurt anything and it would eliminate any issue with the sensor being to close to the scorching manifold runner. Thoughts?

    TIA
    Anyone?

  16. #12816
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Feb 09 2013
    AZ Member #
    109199
    Location
    CNY

    Quote Originally Posted by PSI NRG View Post
    Anyone?
    Get rid of the crappy chinese test pipe, get an 034 one or something that has the primary bung in the right spot. I ran a manzo (ebay) test pipe for a little while and I know exactly what you're talking about in regards to the primary o2 location.

    but to answer your question, afaik you want the primary o2 fairly close to the exhaust manifold, that way the sensor is heated more quickly and up to temp.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  17. #12817
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Get rid of the crappy chinese test pipe, get an 034 one or something that has the primary bung in the right spot. I ran a manzo (ebay) test pipe for a little while and I know exactly what you're talking about in regards to the primary o2 location.

    but to answer your question, afaik you want the primary o2 fairly close to the exhaust manifold, that way the sensor is heated more quickly and up to temp.
    I absolutely could spend the $100 plus to get a new pipe + gaskets and the time to swap everything out. But, is it worth it if there's no harm from moving the primary o2 sensor back several inches to the secondary location and moving the plug to the primary? Cause that would save quite a bit of money and time. Both which I place high value on..

  18. #12818
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Aug 27 2013
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    Philly

    Quote Originally Posted by PSI NRG View Post
    I absolutely could spend the $100 plus to get a new pipe + gaskets and the time to swap everything out. But, is it worth it if there's no harm from moving the primary o2 sensor back several inches to the secondary location and moving the plug to the primary? Cause that would save quite a bit of money and time. Both which I place high value on..
    I dont have any hard facts, but I believe you want the o2 as close as possible to the cylinders. The mixture will change dramatically with every little bit that it moves away from the source of detonation.
    2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 157k.

  19. #12819
    Senior Member Three Rings ZERO FRAME GRAB's Avatar
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    Mar 03 2015
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    My Garage
    2001 Nissan Pathfinder
    Location
    Easton PA

    Found a 06 Phaeton at the local junkyard, the front factory calipers are huge! Any chance they would fit on the B6?
    This car is what I look like on the inside

  20. #12820
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Feb 09 2013
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    109199
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    CNY

    Anybody else in colder climates having issues with their parking brake? I've noticed that when it is below roughly 30*F and I go to put my handbrake lever down, it won't go down all the way (goes down maybe 90%) and the brake light stays on such that if I start driving the DIS will beep at me warning that the handbrake is applied. However, after a few minutes of driving the handle will then go down the rest of the way. I also usually just keep my arm resting on it so I don't have to deal with the beeping.

    The issue with that is the cable ends unhook from the lever if I push down on the lever too much... which means I need to remove the arm rest and rear ash tray to get to the cables and hook them back on. This hasn't been an issue since late November when the temps were around 10 or so, the weather here has been fairly warm, 30* or above and had no issues with the handbrake at all.

    So all I can think is that there is moisture getting into the cable somewhere causing it freeze up and hang when the temperatures dip well below freezing for extended periods of time. I've taken a look at the calipers and cable ends before, but it's hard to recreate the problem since the garage I work in is heated.

    The few threads I've found on this issue seems to be somewhat common even on other VAG vehicles. Other than replacing the cable(s) the only suggestion I've seen is to just avoid using the parking brake when it gets very cold. Which is asinine to me especially since I don't completely trust leaving my car in gear, thankfully where I park at home and work is fairly level.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  21. #12821
    Established Member Two Rings Ol Dirty Noodle's Avatar
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    Nov 30 2011
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    Raccoons and Feces
    Location
    Nassau/LI/NY(the poor part)

    Quote Originally Posted by fR3ZNO View Post
    Anybody else in colder climates having issues with their parking brake? I've noticed that when it is below roughly 30*F and I go to put my handbrake lever down, it won't go down all the way (goes down maybe 90%) and the brake light stays on such that if I start driving the DIS will beep at me warning that the handbrake is applied. However, after a few minutes of driving the handle will then go down the rest of the way. I also usually just keep my arm resting on it so I don't have to deal with the beeping.

    The issue with that is the cable ends unhook from the lever if I push down on the lever too much... which means I need to remove the arm rest and rear ash tray to get to the cables and hook them back on. This hasn't been an issue since late November when the temps were around 10 or so, the weather here has been fairly warm, 30* or above and had no issues with the handbrake at all.

    So all I can think is that there is moisture getting into the cable somewhere causing it freeze up and hang when the temperatures dip well below freezing for extended periods of time. I've taken a look at the calipers and cable ends before, but it's hard to recreate the problem since the garage I work in is heated.

    The few threads I've found on this issue seems to be somewhat common even on other VAG vehicles. Other than replacing the cable(s) the only suggestion I've seen is to just avoid using the parking brake when it gets very cold. Which is asinine to me especially since I don't completely trust leaving my car in gear, thankfully where I park at home and work is fairly level.

    Funny that happened to me the other day. The brake light did go out, but I felt the handle stop before it was all the way down so I knew it wasn’t actually disengaged so I pulled up slightly and dropped it again all the way without issue.
    I thought it might’ve gotten caught on my jacket sleeve or my lightning cable but it was the first sub 30* here so maybe it is temp related?

  22. #12822
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    CNY

    Quote Originally Posted by Ol Dirty Noodle View Post
    Funny that happened to me the other day. The brake light did go out, but I felt the handle stop before it was all the way down so I knew it wasn’t actually disengaged so I pulled up slightly and dropped it again all the way without issue.
    I thought it might’ve gotten caught on my jacket sleeve or my lightning cable but it was the first sub 30* here so maybe it is temp related?
    I know for sure my issue is temp related because it was fine up until the last few days when it's been in the 10's. I'm just confused as to why the handle only goes down partially. I would think if the cable end at the caliper was stuck, the handle wouldn't go down at all (thinking out loud). I'll take a closer look at the cables, including the sheath to see if there is any damage that might be causing an issue.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  23. #12823
    Established Member Two Rings LordKarnage17's Avatar
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    Sep 26 2017
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    Location
    Halifax, Nova Scotia

    Could a bad MAF cause misfires/ engines stalling out on very cold starts?

    Usually in the mornings now when the temp is well below freezing, the engine will crank over and idle like normal for a few seconds (around 900 rpm so a bit low) then will start to stumble and misfire quite bad sometimes bad enough to stall the engine out.
    This stumbling usually continues for a few minutes until the engine warm up a bit. When warm it drives completely normally.

    I would disconnect the MAF and see what it does, but the little locking tab is broken so I'd need a pick to get it off.

    Last time I checked there weren't any codes for the MAF or the coolant temp sensor which I replaced last year thinking it would fix this very problem.
    2003 a4 QM 5 Speed 141k Miles 1.8t/FMIC/ catback magnaflow exhaust/ forge diverter valve/ GIAC tune

  24. #12824
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Mar 05 2013
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    Location
    CA

    Quote Originally Posted by ZERO FRAME GRAB View Post
    Found a 06 Phaeton at the local junkyard, the front factory calipers are huge! Any chance they would fit on the B6?
    idk about the calipers but it might have brake ducts


  25. #12825
    Established Member Two Rings APC123's Avatar
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    Feb 05 2017
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    392558
    Location
    Wilmington Delaware

    Quote Originally Posted by LordKarnage17 View Post
    Could a bad MAF cause misfires/ engines stalling out on very cold starts?

    Usually in the mornings now when the temp is well below freezing, the engine will crank over and idle like normal for a few seconds (around 900 rpm so a bit low) then will start to stumble and misfire quite bad sometimes bad enough to stall the engine out.
    This stumbling usually continues for a few minutes until the engine warm up a bit. When warm it drives completely normally.

    I would disconnect the MAF and see what it does, but the little locking tab is broken so I'd need a pick to get it off.

    Last time I checked there weren't any codes for the MAF or the coolant temp sensor which I replaced last year thinking it would fix this very problem.
    Yes a dirty MAF sensor could be a cause of this. But also, I would check the air temp sensor located just beyond the throttle body. Clean both of them, the MAF and air temp sensor and see where that gets you. When the computer cannot understand the temperature of things, via its sensors, things will run badly.

  26. #12826
    Established Member Two Rings LordKarnage17's Avatar
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    Sep 26 2017
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    Location
    Halifax, Nova Scotia

    Quote Originally Posted by APC123 View Post
    Yes a dirty MAF sensor could be a cause of this. But also, I would check the air temp sensor located just beyond the throttle body. Clean both of them, the MAF and air temp sensor and see where that gets you. When the computer cannot understand the temperature of things, via its sensors, things will run badly.
    Thanks for the reply! Yeah I had the throttle body off when replacing my alternator a while back and while I was in there I cleaned it out with some MAF cleaner. Don't think I've ever cleaned the MAF though. I have intake air temp as a gauge on the torque app, and last time I was using it, the air temps looked normal.

    Would disconnecting the MAF force the engine to stay in open loop mode and get it to idle properly?
    2003 a4 QM 5 Speed 141k Miles 1.8t/FMIC/ catback magnaflow exhaust/ forge diverter valve/ GIAC tune

  27. #12827
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Mar 05 2013
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    CA

    what's better regarding Stage 1+ for the 1.8T

    Motoza or APR?

    I'm leaning Motoza because it's a more modern thing
    I didn't know Diverter Valve was a required supporting mod. I wonder if a 710N is good enough.

    https://motozaperformance.com/produc...-audi-a4-b6-2/


  28. #12828
    Senior Member Two Rings fabric8's Avatar
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    May 14 2013
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    115170
    Location
    US

    Quote Originally Posted by Spike00513 View Post
    what's better regarding Stage 1+ for the 1.8T

    Motoza or APR?

    I'm leaning Motoza because it's a more modern thing
    I didn't know Diverter Valve was a required supporting mod. I wonder if a 710N is good enough.

    https://motozaperformance.com/produc...-audi-a4-b6-2/

    I'm running motoza stg1+ on our 1.8t and also got it for my dad on his 1.8t.

    Both our cars have the 550cc injectors (from Blue Oval) and are doing fine with the 710n.

    I had APR stg1 on my previous cars (mk4 gti 1.8t and mk1 tt225) but I much prefer Motoza since the tune is tailored specifically to your car. For me, this is a big deal because of our elevation and weather (las vegas)
    HIS - 2016 Golf R 6MT
    HERS - 2002 B6 A4 1.8TQM Avant | Motoza Stg.1.5 | OEM A6 4.2 17" forged fat fives

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