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  1. #12241
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mongold88 View Post
    I thought about that as well, that would definitely be a first for me on wheel bearings making that kinda noise. All of the wheel bearings Ive ever had go bad made a roar/hum noise. But anything is possible
    Ive had one go that sounded like I was dragging barbed wire under my car. That was def a new noise lol

    Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk
    2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 151k.

  2. #12242
    Established Member Two Rings
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    South Bay, CA

    [QUOTE=mobilesuit818;13133385]Yep, checked all injectors harness, even unplugged them along with the coil packs, which all exhibited changes to the idle.

    The low fuel pressure and random misfire probably root cause was bad fuel and fuel pump.

    Purchased a Bosch unit complete and ran some high pressure air thru the entire system after removing the line from the engine bay and the fuel filter.

    Now it runs like new and fuel pressure is back to normal after changing injector cup seals, SJP, and a few hose clamps.

  3. #12243
    Established Member Two Rings fabric8's Avatar
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    I scored well today at my local pick n pull and took home the complete center console and 3 rear headrests from a B7 for $37.

    I was hoping to pull its calipers+carriers too but only the driver side front and rear are on the car. They look to be in great shape and the wrecker is offering them to me for $15each. Should I get them for a total of $30 and just wait to find B7 passenger side front and rear calipers?

    Last edited by fabric8; 06-08-2018 at 08:03 AM.
    HIS - 2016 Golf R 6MT
    HERS - 2002 B6 A4 1.8TQM Avant | Motoza Stg.1.5 | OEM A6 4.2 17" forged fat fives

  4. #12244
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    Jun 05 2013
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    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
    Location
    Ottawa

    Holy crap that is a dirty center console. I bet it'll clean up well though. I would grab calipers for 15 bucks for sure. they are usually 60-100 bucks for fronts and maybe 50 for the rears.

    Is it possible to install a clutch disc backwards?
    2004 S4 MT - Summer
    2005 A4 3.0 AT - Wifes
    2004 A4 1.8 6MT - Winter
    2003 A4 1.8 CVT -> 5spd quttro swap!

  5. #12245
    Established Member Two Rings jj94tt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gosser View Post
    Is it possible to install a clutch disc backwards?
    I don't think so. I don't think it would sit flush against the flywheel and allow you to bolt up the pressure plate. Why do you ask?
    2005 A4 B6 3.0L USP Ocean Blue

  6. #12246
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
    Location
    Ottawa

    Quote Originally Posted by jj94tt View Post
    I don't think so. I don't think it would sit flush against the flywheel and allow you to bolt up the pressure plate. Why do you ask?
    Going into install a single mass flywheel, disc and pressure plate this weekend. I see one side being taller with the springs and nothing in the instructions, or written on the disc, other than Vaelo stamped. Maybe once the flywheel is on, there will be clear interferences with one way vs the other.
    2004 S4 MT - Summer
    2005 A4 3.0 AT - Wifes
    2004 A4 1.8 6MT - Winter
    2003 A4 1.8 CVT -> 5spd quttro swap!

  7. #12247
    Established Member Two Rings fabric8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gosser View Post
    Holy crap that is a dirty center console. I bet it'll clean up well though. I would grab calipers for 15 bucks for sure. they are usually 60-100 bucks for fronts and maybe 50 for the rears.
    Ok thanks. Going to go back there and pull them off and store them for now until I find passenger side calipers.

    With a little elbow grease, it cleaned up very well!
    HIS - 2016 Golf R 6MT
    HERS - 2002 B6 A4 1.8TQM Avant | Motoza Stg.1.5 | OEM A6 4.2 17" forged fat fives

  8. #12248
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gosser View Post
    Going into install a single mass flywheel, disc and pressure plate this weekend. I see one side being taller with the springs and nothing in the instructions, or written on the disc, other than Vaelo stamped. Maybe once the flywheel is on, there will be clear interferences with one way vs the other.
    Typically on the clutch there's a side that's marked "gearbox side". So you'd install it with that side facing out towards the gearbox.

    You can see it near the splined portion in the center.

    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  9. #12249
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    Yeah, I'm pretty sure on my JHM setup , the clutch said "flywheel side" on one side. I forgot which side it was, though.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  10. #12250
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gosser's Avatar
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    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
    Location
    Ottawa

    Yep I'm blind, mine says 'gearbox side', verified mine which is this one:

    other side for reference:


    Cant wait to see how this single mass flywheel feels compared to my steel SMLWFW(also yet to be installed)
    2004 S4 MT - Summer
    2005 A4 3.0 AT - Wifes
    2004 A4 1.8 6MT - Winter
    2003 A4 1.8 CVT -> 5spd quttro swap!

  11. #12251
    Senior Member Three Rings G.AUDI's Avatar
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    Dec 07 2008
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    36094
    My Garage
    MK6 GTI
    Location
    SGV, CA

    Looking into getting an oil cooler and saw the cost of the OEM one. Any of the other brands good to go or is this one of the items where OEM is the only option to use? Ecs has a refresh kit around $ 116 vs the part at > 260.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  12. #12252
    Senior Member Three Rings B6_A4_Kid's Avatar
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    Dec 07 2015
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    My Garage
    89' Land Cruiser
    Location
    Salem, Utah

    The questions is gt2871r or td05-20


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine

  13. #12253
    Veteran Member Three Rings jpulll's Avatar
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    Jun 19 2014
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    Ohio

    Hereís a weird one. Cruising along and notice my boost gauge is stuck at 24inhg. Even when I go to pass someone and I can hear the turbo spool up, the gauge stays at 24inhg. I have no tools to troubleshoot this as Iím on vacation.


    Sent from my iPhone
    2003 A4 1.8T 5-spd w/ Motoza 93/E85.

  14. #12254
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Winchester,va,east coast

    Quote Originally Posted by SJorge3442 View Post
    Ive had one go that sounded like I was dragging barbed wire under my car. That was def a new noise lol

    Sent from my LG-H871 using Tapatalk
    So far it seems like the backing plates where it... fingers crossed

  15. #12255
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about making a folding-seat mat.
    Has anyone done this before?

    I already have a trunk cargo mat,
    but nothing to protect the rear seat backs when they're folded down sometimes, to carry large objects.

    I saw Autozone had some sort of generic liner (labeled as being for car trunks/cargo area), that said "cut to fit" for $10.
    But didn't buy that to try it out, to see if it works.
    Maybe something that can be rolled up and kept on the side when not in use.


  16. #12256
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    PA

    My car is done for. Broke down two weeks ago, diagnosed by mechanic with timing issues because of crank pulley failure. He fixed the timing so the car would at least start. It starts now but is really rough at idle and gets constant misfires from cylinder 4 plus the random misfires code. We're thinking damaged valves probably on at least one cylinder if not more.

    I've decided to trade the car in and buy something else. Stupid question: do you guys think it would be ok to drive the car to the dealer? It's 6 miles away, around 15 min drive, town roads not too busy but it does have some traffic lights here and there, no highway though. I've started the car in my garage and had it running for 20 mins or so while I pull vagcom codes but I haven't driven it since it broke down. I just had it towed to and from the mechanic.

  17. #12257
    Veteran Member Three Rings goalieman24's Avatar
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    Slightly audible noise/vibration when stopped with the A/C on. Goes away with A/C off. A/C still works fine. Likely the tensioner?

  18. #12258
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
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    California

    Quote Originally Posted by needmovies View Post
    My car is done for. Broke down two weeks ago, diagnosed by mechanic with timing issues because of crank pulley failure. He fixed the timing so the car would at least start. It starts now but is really rough at idle and gets constant misfires from cylinder 4 plus the random misfires code. We're thinking damaged valves probably on at least one cylinder if not more.

    I've decided to trade the car in and buy something else. Stupid question: do you guys think it would be ok to drive the car to the dealer? It's 6 miles away, around 15 min drive, town roads not too busy but it does have some traffic lights here and there, no highway though. I've started the car in my garage and had it running for 20 mins or so while I pull vagcom codes but I haven't driven it since it broke down. I just had it towed to and from the mechanic.
    No offense, but if it idles noticeably rough and the check engine light is flashing because of misfires, no dealer is going to take it from you. If you don't want to drive it, why would anyone else looking to buy a car?

    I'd say your best bet is to find another engine and swap it in. It's the 3.0, right? The general consensus here seems to be that those are gutless and heavy, so most people get rid of them for 2.7T's. You should be able to find another 3.0 for a decent price.

    EDIT: a quick search on eBay shows tons of them, ranging from $400 to $1000.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  19. #12259
    Veteran Member Four Rings Spike00513's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by needmovies View Post
    My car is done for. Broke down two weeks ago, diagnosed by mechanic with timing issues because of crank pulley failure. He fixed the timing so the car would at least start. It starts now but is really rough at idle and gets constant misfires from cylinder 4 plus the random misfires code. We're thinking damaged valves probably on at least one cylinder if not more.

    I've decided to trade the car in and buy something else. Stupid question: do you guys think it would be ok to drive the car to the dealer? It's 6 miles away, around 15 min drive, town roads not too busy but it does have some traffic lights here and there, no highway though. I've started the car in my garage and had it running for 20 mins or so while I pull vagcom codes but I haven't driven it since it broke down. I just had it towed to and from the mechanic.
    Crank pulley failure; is it rubber and disintegrated or something? Is it a high-mileage maintenance item that'd be beneficial to replace then, whether with a new OEM one or aftermarket upgrade like Fluidampr? The latter is expensive. Hopefully OEM is cheap.

    Would it even run if the valves are bent, unless it's even slightly?
    It's not any of the many other things that seem possible to go wrong on a high-mileage stock 1.8T?

    For CEL's/Check Engine Light, I heard a solid lit one basically means "hey, there's an engine issue. Take it to a mechanic/workshop or check it out yourself when you get a chance, if you know how."
    But that if it's flashing (even worse running), it means "Turn the car off immediately and fix it. Running it like this can cause damage."

    Because a solid lit one would not legally be allowed to pass smog (one of the requirements is that there's no CEL illuminated on the dash), though cars may still manage to move under it's own power with it on.

  20. #12260
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
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    CNY
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    Does anyone know where to find a replacement connector (auto dim connector, not the heated ones) for the auto dim mirrors? I have a set of power folding housings, someone snipped the connector off when they replaced one of the auto dim mirrors with a normal one.

    I don't think it has a separate part number AFAIK.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  21. #12261
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    What control arms/kits are people using these days? Replaced all with a set from a few years back and see that I have 1 with a torn boot that's starting to creak. Was considering replacing the one or getting a kit to replace them all, wasn't sure if the recommended setup has changed.

  22. #12262
    Veteran Member Four Rings SJorge3442's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by my1stturbo View Post
    What control arms/kits are people using these days? Replaced all with a set from a few years back and see that I have 1 with a torn boot that's starting to creak. Was considering replacing the one or getting a kit to replace them all, wasn't sure if the recommended setup has changed.
    I threw FCP arms on about 4 years ago. Bushings look great and the front end feels tight, but Im getting a creak now. I think it may be a strut mount though and not a contorl arm. I might just get another kit from FCP under warranty and swap them all with the strut mount and call it a day. FWIW, I drive pretty aggressively when i go out for drives, so these arms have def held up much better than I was expecting.
    2003 3.0 6 Speed - Quattro. 151k.

  23. #12263
    Established Member Two Rings jj94tt's Avatar
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    Pittsburgh

    Quote Originally Posted by my1stturbo View Post
    What control arms/kits are people using these days? Replaced all with a set from a few years back and see that I have 1 with a torn boot that's starting to creak. Was considering replacing the one or getting a kit to replace them all, wasn't sure if the recommended setup has changed.
    Lemforder from FCP
    2005 A4 B6 3.0L USP Ocean Blue

  24. #12264
    Senior Member Four Rings eljay's Avatar
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    Aug 13 2015
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    NS

    Quote Originally Posted by jj94tt View Post
    Lemforder from FCP
    +1

    The Delphi brand arms and tie rods from FCP have not lasted long on my car.
    2005 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro Avant / 6-speed / Ultrasport - Unicorn rescue operation in progress.
    WTB: Mint condition silver B6 passenger fender.

  25. #12265
    Established Member Two Rings IceQB's Avatar
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    Feb 01 2017
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    SA

    I've never gotten an engine light come on.
    Have had cam sensor errors, throttle body, misfires, boost errors, oil warning light ever since I got this car over a year ago.
    Tested dashboard lights in VCDS & it works, just never came on - should I be worried or just happy?
    So could the previous owner have disabled it (engine warning light)?
    Any way I can check in VCDS if its been tampered with or switched off?
    ___________________
    Audi A4 B6 1.8T Avant

  26. #12266
    Established Member Two Rings JAudi23's Avatar
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    Oct 31 2013
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    2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro 2004 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T FWD, 2005 Honda CR-V & 2000 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R
    Location
    Milton, ON, CA

    Shortly after I switched from my 16 inch winter wheels to my 17-inch OEM summer wheels I've been getting the dynamic headlight range adjustment warning.

    I tried resetting the codes with the VAGCOM cable but it comes back every time I start the car or shortly after.

    The code is this:

    1 Fault Found:
    00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78)
    31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

    Anyone have some pointers on where to start troubleshooting?

    Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
    -----------------------------------
    2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro, Brilliant Black
    ProClip Center Dash | Curt Manufacturing Hitch
    2004 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T FrontTrak, Light Silver Metallic
    Full DIS Retrofit | Auto-Dimming Rearview Mirror Retrofit | Full Width Rain Tray/Battery Cover | Q5 Rear Wiper | B7 Lower Door Blades | Dension Gateway 300 | ProClip Center Dash | Curt Manufacturing Hitch | Thinkware F770 2Ch FHD-FHD Dash Cam

  27. #12267
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAudi23 View Post
    The code is this:

    1 Fault Found:
    00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78)
    31-00 - Open or Short to Ground

    Anyone have some pointers on where to start troubleshooting?

    Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
    I would start off directly at the sensor. It's to the left of the driver side shock. Make sure it's there and all in one piece with the connection intact.

    Last edited by RDA990; 06-13-2018 at 07:34 AM.
    Brilliant Red 2004 A4 1.8T quattro Ultrasport
    Frankenturbo F21L | Motoza Tuning | FMIC | Test Pipe | Bosch 550cc | 710n DV | Podi Boost Gauge | 21 PSI

    Dolphin Gray A4 1.8T quattro 2004
    Brilliant Red A4 2.0T quattro 2007
    DIY - A4 B6 Boost Leak Test

  28. #12268
    Established Member Two Rings jj94tt's Avatar
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    "Open or short to ground" in my case was a broken wire a few inches from the connector caused by road debris, I assume. Don't just assume you need a new sensor - that's what I did and wasted $$.
    2005 A4 B6 3.0L USP Ocean Blue

  29. #12269
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    How do VIN splits work when ordering parts? I always figured it went off the last 5-6 digits of the VIN, but I'm looking at parts right now and the same part has two different part numbers with VINs that seem contradictory.

    One says "FROM VIN 8E3320001"

    The other says "FROM VIN 8E3285001"

    The last numbers of my VIN are 184024, so which one is right? Doesn't seem like either of them is right.

    Edit: Scrolled all the way to the bottom of the page (wtf Audi?) And there was a separate section called "related parts" and it had a part number that said "TO VIN 8E3320000". That one seems like it's the one I want.

    Maybe?
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  30. #12270
    Veteran Member Four Rings RDA990's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    How do VIN splits work when ordering parts? I always figured it went off the last 5-6 digits of the VIN, but I'm looking at parts right now and the same part has two different part numbers with VINs that seem contradictory.

    One says "FROM VIN 8E3320001"

    The other says "FROM VIN 8E3285001"

    The last numbers of my VIN are 184024, so which one is right? Doesn't seem like either of them is right.

    Edit: Scrolled all the way to the bottom of the page (wtf Audi?) And there was a separate section called "related parts" and it had a part number that said "TO VIN 8E3320000". That one seems like it's the one I want.

    Maybe?
    What's the part? Something is off there.

    Edit: It's the one that says "TO VIN"
    Brilliant Red 2004 A4 1.8T quattro Ultrasport
    Frankenturbo F21L | Motoza Tuning | FMIC | Test Pipe | Bosch 550cc | 710n DV | Podi Boost Gauge | 21 PSI

    Dolphin Gray A4 1.8T quattro 2004
    Brilliant Red A4 2.0T quattro 2007
    DIY - A4 B6 Boost Leak Test

  31. #12271
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
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    ViIN is usually listed as 8E_3_XXXXXX or 8E_4_XXXXXX. The underscores are characters that you skip in the VIN. Starting with 8E list out your vin with the skips. I'm guessing you have an 8E_4_184024.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L mixed flow turbo / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla Exhaust / Eibach ProKit Springs / Koni Yellows / H-Sport Sway Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  32. #12272
    Established Member Two Rings JAudi23's Avatar
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    2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro 2004 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T FWD, 2005 Honda CR-V & 2000 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-6R
    Location
    Milton, ON, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by RDA990 View Post
    I would start off directly at the sensor. It's to the left of the driver side shock. Make sure it's there and all in one piece with the connection intact.
    Quote Originally Posted by jj94tt View Post
    "Open or short to ground" in my case was a broken wire a few inches from the connector caused by road debris, I assume. Don't just assume you need a new sensor - that's what I did and wasted $$.
    Thanks guys, I will try this hopefully tomorrow evening. Need to yank off the wheel to get in there.
    -----------------------------------
    2003 Audi A4 3.0 Quattro, Brilliant Black
    ProClip Center Dash | Curt Manufacturing Hitch
    2004 Audi A4 Avant 1.8T FrontTrak, Light Silver Metallic
    Full DIS Retrofit | Auto-Dimming Rearview Mirror Retrofit | Full Width Rain Tray/Battery Cover | Q5 Rear Wiper | B7 Lower Door Blades | Dension Gateway 300 | ProClip Center Dash | Curt Manufacturing Hitch | Thinkware F770 2Ch FHD-FHD Dash Cam

  33. #12273
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    69 Nova
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    California

    Quote Originally Posted by RDA990 View Post
    What's the part? Something is off there.

    Edit: It's the one that says "TO VIN"
    That's what I figured, but wasn't sure. You'd think they'd put all the same parts in one section. Like the first two were the same part in the diagram, just different part numbers and VIN listings, which makes sense.

    The 3rd one was all the way at the bottom, why not have it listed with the first two?

    Because Audi. -_-

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    ViIN is usually listed as 8E_3_XXXXXX or 8E_4_XXXXXX. The underscores are characters that you skip in the VIN. Starting with 8E list out your vin with the skips. I'm guessing you have an 8E_4_184024.
    Correct, doing it the way you listed, VIN is 8E_4_184024.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  34. #12274
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    '03 A4, '13 A5, '18 MB-GLA
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post

    Correct, doing it the way you listed, VIN is 8E_4_184024.
    That designates a 2004 model. So you would be looking for the part listed "FROM VIN 8E_3_320001". Apparently there was a change made in mid-year 2003.
    A4 Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L mixed flow turbo / Bosch 550's / 3" MAF / TyrolSport SMIC / 034 HFC / TT 2.5" DP / Borla Exhaust / Eibach ProKit Springs / Koni Yellows / H-Sport Sway Bars / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / HyperShift Short Shifter / Podi
    A5 Mods to come: Little stuff so far. 20/25mm spacers / H&R OE Sport springs / 35% tint / Neuspeed Power Module / black window trim / RS grille.

  35. #12275
    Established Member Two Rings fabric8's Avatar
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    I suspect the wastegate flap on my dads oem turbo (@162k) is bad. He's only making 15psi of boost with his motoza stg1+. I've checked his 710N DV and it was good, but replaced it anyway with a piston-style DV and that didn't help. Boost guage is showing -21in/hg. at idle. I'm going to re-check for boost leaks today anyway but there are no signs of any.

    I'm planning on pulling his DP off to inspect the wastegate but would prefer to have a replacement turbo in hand to swap it if I discover that it's bad.

    How are these eBay turbos? Has anyone had any luck with them? Looks like this seller has sold 54 of them.

    HIS - 2016 Golf R 6MT
    HERS - 2002 B6 A4 1.8TQM Avant | Motoza Stg.1.5 | OEM A6 4.2 17" forged fat fives

  36. #12276
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    Mar 21 2016
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    69 Nova
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    California

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    That designates a 2004 model. So you would be looking for the part listed "FROM VIN 8E_3_320001". Apparently there was a change made in mid-year 2003.
    Awesome, thanks!
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  37. #12277
    Veteran Member Four Rings Gosser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 05 2013
    AZ Member #
    116640
    My Garage
    2005 A4, 1988 Buick Lesabre T-Type
    Location
    Ottawa

    Whats the purpose of that stainless steel shim between the block and gear box? Not the spacer, but the thin shim. More importantly, is it necessary?
    2004 S4 MT - Summer
    2005 A4 3.0 AT - Wifes
    2004 A4 1.8 6MT - Winter
    2003 A4 1.8 CVT -> 5spd quttro swap!

  38. #12278
    Veteran Member Four Rings fR3ZNO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 09 2013
    AZ Member #
    109199
    Location
    CNY
    Items for Sale

    questions you thought were too dumb to ask

    Quote Originally Posted by fabric8 View Post
    I suspect the wastegate flap on my dads oem turbo (@162k) is bad. He's only making 15psi of boost with his motoza stg1+. I've checked his 710N DV and it was good, but replaced it anyway with a piston-style DV and that didn't help. Boost guage is showing -21in/hg. at idle. I'm going to re-check for boost leaks today anyway but there are no signs of any.

    I'm planning on pulling his DP off to inspect the wastegate but would prefer to have a replacement turbo in hand to swap it if I discover that it's bad.

    How are these eBay turbos? Has anyone had any luck with them? Looks like this seller has sold 54 of them.

    Is the wastegate actuator diaphragm torn? My turbo had a similar failure, resulted in overboost codes since the flap would not open.

    For $80 I guess theyíre worth a shot, but I wouldnít bother with one. Just grab a lower mileage OEM one and be done with it. Just because a lot of people bought it on eBay doesnít mean itís any good, itís just cheap. Lol.

    A used one would run you about the same amount as that eBay one anyway.
    "If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." - Ferdinand Porsche

  39. #12279
    Senior Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 21 2016
    AZ Member #
    370603
    My Garage
    69 Nova
    Location
    California

    Is there a part number for the little spring on the back of the wheel center caps?

    I seem to have misplaced one of them during the clutch job. I see ECS sells the whole cap with the spring, but I don't want to spend $40 when my cap is fine.
    04 A4 3.0 Quattro 6 Speed
    69 Nova with a bunch of stuffs

  40. #12280
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Oct 02 2015
    AZ Member #
    359427
    Location
    Outskirts of civilization

    Quote Originally Posted by DarkoNova View Post
    Is there a part number for the little spring on the back of the wheel center caps?
    ETKA does not show the caps as being composite parts:

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