What Did You Do To Your B7 Today?..

[Doctor]

I mean, you’re the guy who’s making his car look bad to make sure his crash bar stays cool….
🤣🤣


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So eager to write back something smart, that you didnt take time to see why that is. Or you did and didn't understand what it means.

Either way thanks for proving my point. Making this way too easy. Appreciate it.

Cheers.

[EvolutionArmory]

So eager to write back something smart, that you didnt take time to see why that is. Or you did and didn't understand what it means.

Either way thanks for proving my point. Making this way too easy. Appreciate it.

Cheers.

Dude, you even said you have a euro plate in front of it most the time. So it literally does nothing except look bad when you take the plate off. 🤣🤣🤣 Dude, you don’t need vents to direct airflow over a FMIC. The grill does that. 🤣🤣🤣 And the crash bar is visible through the holes..

I thought the Greeks were known for doing amazing things to Audi’s. Maybe you missed that day at tuning school.


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[Doctor]

Dude, you even said you have a euro plate in front of it most the time. So it literally does nothing except look bad when you take the plate off. 🤣🤣🤣 Dude, you don’t need vents to direct airflow over a FMIC. The grill does that. 🤣🤣🤣 And the crash bar is visible through the holes..

I thought the Greeks were known for doing amazing things to Audi’s. Maybe you missed that day at tuning school.


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You should do your homework before you dive into throwing toxicity in fora.

Quit try-harding mate, this is looking funny to people having been longer than you in here.

Sorry, I meant dude, not mate. Seems to be a word you like.

Cheers

[Doctor]

B Pillars, C Pillars and Interior Kevlar / CF Trim installed

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Cheers

[EvolutionArmory]

You should do your homework before you dive into throwing toxicity in fora.

Quit try-harding mate, this is looking funny to people having been longer than you in here.

Sorry, I meant dude, not mate. Seems to be a word you like.

Cheers

What I lack in time here compared to you I make up in build quality and a lack of useless holes in my grill. 🤣🤣🤣

Look man, I’m just telling you it looks bad and is pointless. Don’t get too butt hurt over it.

You’re putting very nice carbon accents on it and all of that is instantly overlooked by that horrible grill. Yes, you have a plate over it when driving it daily, but as soon as you take it off, that mistake cancels every nice thing about the car.

I’m just trying to be honest with you.


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[Doctor]

Restored some things on the interior to remove some years off of it.

1. Climatronic Unit - which also now has the buttons for heated seats if needed in the future.

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Old and tired to the left

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Installed

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

2. Latch from the armrest, which was broken from when i bought this second A4.

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Old above (or what is left of it ) vs new at the bottom

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Installed

Untitled by mgpdoc, on Flickr

Cheers

[james12lucy]

Not a huge leap forward, but kind of. I’m pretty sure this is a first on a longitudinal EA113. I hung the Peterson R4 with the Integrated Engineering mounts. I’ll need to pull the engine to get the OEM oil pump/balance shaft assembly out, add a PTFE crank scraper, and the IE oil pan.

It wouldn’t clear the Race3 rad cradle, so they’re sending me the light version next week. I’ll make everything a lot easier. I have a feeling this one will end up modified and in an 07K swapped B7.

Now I have to wait on the mandrel for the crank and the oil feed. Once that’s done, I can really start plumbing. The dash Hass to come out so I can pull the HVAC and heater core, then build a dash bar for the roll cage.







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[Charles.waite]

Oh dang, that’s really cool! External oil pump? Should be a nice upgrade for the track.

[james12lucy]

Oh dang, that’s really cool! External oil pump? Should be a nice upgrade for the track.

Thanks. Yessir, 3 stage (2x scavenge & 1x pressure). It’ll be a huge upgrade because of the consistent oil pressure, elimination of all starvation/cavitation, and the 4 gallon oil capacity. It has been a struggle putting it all together though.

I’ll likely scavenge the turbo via a Tee with a check valve, as well. That way I’m assured it’ll always be draining properly. I’ll still likely run a closed loop catch can from the valve cover.


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[Blockis]

Finally put in a "newer" headunit. Next up is replacing the bubbling shift plate trim and then drop in the rest of the brushed aluminum trim.

[james12lucy]

Canadian came over on the weekend and we got to work.

Pulled the rear subframe, drive shaft, and dash. Still need to pull the engine and transmission (parts from iABED will be here soon). Need to swap the diff from the old subframe to the replacement.

We pulled about 80lbs from the car and that was all just fuel system/shields/filler equipment. I’m thinking the HVAC/blower/ etc is likely going to net another 120+lbs.







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[studiobmx]

Dang, that’s crazy!! I’d be interested to see what you can get the weight down to!?


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[james12lucy]

Dang, that’s crazy!! I’d be interested to see what you can get the weight down to!?


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Thanks. I’m guessing 2900lbs wet.

3372lbs with driver 220lbs) before.




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[studiobmx]

Wow, that’s a substantial saving. You’ve got a cage right ?


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[james12lucy]

Wow, that’s a substantial saving. You’ve got a cage right ?


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Yes. We built a 6-point cage. It’ll likely be 10 point this winter.







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[studiobmx]

Awesome! This is a CHUMP car right ?


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[james12lucy]

Awesome! This is a CHUMP car right ?


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Yeah, ChampCar and Lucky Dog.


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[Charles.waite]

An old Co worker used to run an old fox body in lucky dog. Sounded like a lot of fun. He always had good stories.

[james12lucy]

So, a little more progress today. Thanks to Canadian for driving 3 hours, having the truck eff off twice, and throwing out his back for the help.

The rear subframe with all upgrades is finally in. I mean, I was nervous of the 034 RSB not clearing the fuel cell/cell cage, but there is about 5mm clearance. All in all, it went in very quickly (unlike pulling the old one).

Put a cherry picker together to get the engine out again. Working on pulling the last few transmission bolts and I’ll have it out. I still need to swap the OEM oil pump out, and throw the dry sump pan on the built engine (after clearancing the pan for the oil feed galley). Lots to do inside the car with the dash coming out as well. Hoping I have time to get it all done before April!






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[Blockis]

Finally put in a "newer" headunit. Next up is replacing the bubbling shift plate trim and then drop in the rest of the brushed aluminum trim.

Replaced the shift plate and the last of the brushed aluminum trim:

[Charles.waite]

Bought a new Bluetooth adapter that supports streaming with the AAC codec. Should arrive in a few weeks from Shenzhen.

I’m currently using a Tune2Air ($120) connected to an A3 AMI module ($200 and quite rare) in my glovebox and while it’s been decent enough I’ve lately been reminded at just how much low frequency sound is cut off by the garbage SBC codec. And given that song info in the DIS doesn’t really work anymore, and steering wheel controls don’t reliably work to control the songs either, keeping the AMI unit doesn’t really make sense. So I’ll be switching to a more standard Aux unit and wiring this bare board/module in. Nice thing is it also has Aux pass through so I can wire in a headphone jack if I want to later on and it’ll takes 12v power from the Ami harness too. Should be relatively simple to wire in.

I might do a write up when I get it working if anyone is interested. The board is $22 shipped and come with wiring pigtails, supports Bluetooth 5 and AptX-HD for the Android folks. So it should be a really flexible solution that’s also really cheap and should integrate well in a car audio system. My only concern is that it might take a long time to “boot” when I turn the car on but we’ll see I suppose.

[ender_speaks]

Changed my CTS bc I pulled the good old P181. The old one looked pretty bad so I'm pretty sure that's it (fingers crossed)

[apatchin]

Thanks to covid BBS CH-Rs & RS5 CF wheel finally showed up. Still waiting on BBK to show up i ordered in May.

Need to drop the rear and possibly get a meatier tires, a bit stretched for me. Out of all my cars this slow ol' grocery getter still looks so good.









New Sport shifters CF GT2 knob just showed up yesterday and looks fantastic. highly recommended to any one looking for a new shift knob.

[RickB_7]

Washed it



Covered it




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[Charles.waite]

Took advantage of the in-laws being around to help wrangle the kids and put its winter boots on:



They barely clear the Macan brembos with 8mm spacers.



These wheels didn’t clear standard A4 brakes (they did once the pads wore down some) so I’m glad the spacers were enough for clearance.

[james12lucy]

Engine is out for the oil pump removal and dry sump pan.

I effing hate pulling the engine without the trans because it’s a c-unit getting aligned. I also wracked my brain for three days over one bolt. Turns out it’s a cake walk from the top. Perspective, I guess.




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[Charles.waite]

Glad I put the winters on because this happened





The roads got pretty icy but the Hakkas were unflappable.

[Older_not_Wiser]

Had my second outer CV joint 'C-Ring' fail on me. Both have basically broken at about the midpoint of the C. One lasted about 8 months and the second about 3 months. One was on my Sedan and one was on my Avant, so different axles altogether.

I have been putting the 'C-Ring' in the groove on the axle first and then getting the CV joint started on the splines and then giving the CV joint where the big bolt goes a pop with a hammer to get it to seat in the CV joint groove.

Should I have been doing it the other way? Putting the 'C-Ring' into the CV joint first and then inserting the axle and giving the axle a pop with a hammer at the back of the part that mates to the transmission? I would think it would not matter either way.

Anybody else experienced this issue? Let me know your thoughts.

Edit: More info. Boot kits that broke the 'C-Rings' (2) are Genuine boot kits from the dealer. Pulling out the 'C-Rings' that I saved that were removed from the last 2 outer boots I replaced, the old 'C-Rings' that are I assume the original to the car when new are not round. They are a little bit oval where the distance to the top and bottom of the C is larger than the distance to the left and right of the C. The wear marks on the old 'C-Rings' are on the top and bottom of the C. The new 'C-Rings' were almost perfectly round. The wear marks on the new, broken 'C-Rings' that appear to be almost perfectly round are on the left side of the C only and that is where they broke....

I have a new boot kit that I should be able to pick up at the dealer, hopefully tomorrow. It will be interesting to see what the 'C-Ring' looks like round or slightly oval. I am tempted to put one of the old 'C-Rings' in if the new boot kit comes with a round one.

Edit #2: Fixed and all back together. A little lessons learned if anyone comes across this issue or is doing outer CV boots. The 'C-Ring' can move around on the axle shaft a lot. There is a chamfer on the splines of the CV joint that is there to compress the 'C-ring', but the 'C-ring ' can move so much that it is outside of the chamfer. If you hammer on the CV joint with the 'C-ring ' being outside of the chamfer a little bit, it tries to take a chunk out of the 'C-Ring'. In my case, the damaged 'C-ring' eventually fatigued and broke at the damage site. With the new boot kit, I figured out you have to get the CV joint started on the splines so it is just loosely sitting on the 'C-Ring', then pull back the boot so that you can see the 'C-Ring' then with a small pick, make sure the 'C-ring' is not pushed out all to one side. Get it centered with the pick and then it only takes a little tap with a dead blow to have the chamfer compress the 'C-ring' and let the CV joint slide on enough to engage the 'C-ring' in the CV joint groove.

[Dondbg]

[james12lucy]

It’s nothing really fancy like a lot of the builds I see on here, but I think it’s pretty rad.

I got the oil pump/balance shaft assembly pulled from my race engine. The oil pump was in absolutely perfect condition and has only seen about 500km of use (testing and tuning the race car). That said, factory oil pumps and balance shafts tend to fuck off when seeing consistent high RPM, and also starve for oil when cornering hard.

I’ve got the Integrated Engineering sty sump pan on the bottom end to keep debris out until I get a chain breaker for the factory oil pump chain. I’ll also need to laser cut a PTFE crank scraper, and swap the iABED rear main seal, while I’m in there. I also realize I need to move the snub mount, as it’ll interfere with the dry sump pulley/belt.

Mind the mess of a shop.






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[Older_not_Wiser]

Did this yesterday(power steering high pressure line):



A medium pain in the ass, and a big messy task as it was leaking inside the protective jacket and the protective jacket filled up with PS fluid. An offset 19mm wrench with 12 point is a must to get the banjo bolt on the rack. I guess I am happy it was not the rack itself.

[james12lucy]

Did this yesterday(power steering high pressure line):



A medium pain in the ass, and a big messy task as it was leaking inside the protective jacket and the protective jacket filled up with PS fluid. An offset 19mm wrench with 12 point is a must to get the banjo bolt on the rack. I guess I am happy it was not the rack itself.

Great work!

WERA Tools also has a ratcheting crows foot wrench that works very well for this job. That’s one of my next projects when the electric pump goes in. I just wish I had an RS4 rack for it.


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[PhireSideZA]

Bought it!

I've been looking for an Avant for a couple of months now and finally got one that I liked enough to buy it. I really, really wanted one in white but the spec level of this one in Phantom Black was too good to pass up - towbar, wood trim, RNS-E, colour DIS and cruise control as factory fitted. We don't get great spec levels where I'm at, even with the S-line trim.

Delivery should be sometime next week. I'm most excited.

[Charles.waite]

Got a flat today. The roads here in Seattle are absolutely fucked either from the prolonged freeze during the storm a few weeks ago, or all the plows just shredding all the pothole patches. Either way I hit a gnarly one on the highway offramp today and pinched the sidewalls on my front drivers side. The tire is a goner, it was totally deflated in a matter of seconds. Thankfully I was able to stop in a nice cordoned off construction bypass and change the wheel with my spare which, with my luck, was also flat! Seeing as I had no inflator, and my wife was out and couldn't come get me with the portable one I have at home, I had her pick me and the kiddo up and we went home and had dinner. Caught an Uber back to the car, pumped up the now-mounted spare and drove it home.

Now the dilemma of what to do about replacing a single tire. I'm running Hakkapellittas that are a few years old with maybe 5-10k on them and I need snow tire capabilities for weekend trips to the mountains. All the passes here are closed because of the unholy amount of snow we've gotten this year (no joke, the 5 year average for today's date was 146" and as of today we have had 286" at the passes, its been bonkers) so throwing a random all season on isn't a great idea and ordering one single new snow and hoping my diffs don't blow doesn't really sit well considering I'll be driving up to the mountains at least once a week for the next few months. Ugh, dilemmas...

[tankdeer]

Order new tire, have it shaved, done and done

[Charles.waite]

Pretty hard to find Hakka R3s in stock anywhere. Love these ongoing supply chain issues.

And besides I’ve found another set of Michelins in great shape a mile away so I’m going to pick those up tomorrow most likely.

[tankdeer]

To be fair. Hakkas have never been the easiest to get here. But yeah, matched set is good

[Charles.waite]

And wouldn’t you know it, the spare is flat again this morning. Love that the bozos at the Costco tire picked literally the worst tire of my old ones when I asked them to keep the best one and replace the spare. That tire was the reason I got new ones in the first place.

[drewgold]

Great work!

WERA Tools also has a ratcheting crows foot wrench that works very well for this job. That’s one of my next projects when the electric pump goes in. I just wish I had an RS4 rack for it.


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Just sent you a PM, I have a rebuilt RS4 rack that I’m considering parting with.

[tankdeer]

And wouldn’t you know it, the spare is flat again this morning. Love that the bozos at the Costco tire picked literally the worst tire of my old ones when I asked them to keep the nest one snd replace the spare. That tire was the reason I got new ones in the first place.

Go someplace better than Costco