What did you do to your B6 today?

[willemml]

Bought a breaker bar and 19mm deep socket to replace the oem tire change tool because PO replaced lug bolts with very long studs and bigger nuts. About to go on a 1000km road trip so don't want to get stuck without the ability to change the tire/take the wheel off.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

some pics of the recent work I've been doing

full interior LED upgrade(taken from my sedan so I had to pick up new ones for the cargo area):


replaced rear license plate light housing with mine from my sedan. The one on the avant(2003) was made of metal and completely corroded, while mine from the sedan(2004) was made of plastic and in great shape.


Painted some front of the engine components while they were off.


Resprayed the grille surround with plastidip.


Installed the podi boost gauge and steering column mount



Getting closer to having this thing on the road!

[Danisson]

It all started yesterday afternoon when the driver's door started to misbehave in a very strange way... so in order to open it first time after unlocking, I had to pull the handle multiple times for the latch to disengage. The electric control was always working so that really bothered me; not to mention that after the first time the door was indeed opening & closing just fine. So my first guess was that the striker plate went out of alignment and I've spent a lot of time adjusting it until the door was sitting flush with the rest of the panels when closed. But after that it was rubbing even worse...

This morning it came to my head that the door itself needs to be adjusted 'cause it started sagging after all these years. The usual way of taking the fender out (along with half of the car :) was definitely NOT my option so with the help of two washers and a jack did the job quite well. Think it was done ? Nah... the door lock module was still not giving up. After giving all the hinges (from all 4 doors) a good amount of lubricant, cleaning the latch and fiddling around with it it seized up in the lock position while the door was opened. God !

So... on we go again ! Out with the door card, rain cover foam, (crusty melted brittle af.) door lock cover, door handle, barrel and finally THE DOOR LOCK MODULE itself. (which was all original, 2001 made) Assuming that the electric part of it was fine and the mechanism got stuck into the micro switch; which carved and wore down the rubber insulation of the latch, I took it apart and cleaned it good with a healthy dose of brake cleaner. Lubricated it with some lithium grease, soldered in a brand new micro switch and repaired the rubber onto the latch by melting it. Considering how old and rough the module was moving and looking, the final result really is impressive to say at least; like BRAND NEW !

So back on the car it went ! Tomorrow I'll apply new adhesive silicone onto the foam, sealing everything up and replacing all the clips on the door card with new ones. Sure I'd keep you updated... (man, what a mess of tools around the house)

[willemml]

Finally swapping all the control arms and tie rods, took it for a test drive and it's much better now.

[Danisson]

Hey folks !

Posting this means that everything is fine with my driver's door (as far as I can tell :) so here we go:
Cleaned the old adhesive from the entire door and applied some rubber gasket-maker silicone to hold the foam protection (which I managed to patch with some strong 3M Duct Tape) into position and seal it up. After testing all the functions like lock/unlock, windows, mirrors and so on I've decided to replace the AM mirror adjusting switch with an OE one, along with all the door card clips (NEW as well ;) Now it's all aligned and working properly. What a 2 day hassle !

[willemml]

Mounted an amp in the trunk and rewired all the speakers.

Bled the brakes, old fluid is very dirty.

[Dr.B6Banter]

Took advantage of my friend's new quickjack lift to bleed the brakes (takes a little longer when the Brembos have 2 bleeders per calliper) and took it to our local racetrack Atlantic Motorsports Park in East Coast Canada. This is my 2nd year of taking the B6 there and slowly the lap times are getting better as I set the car better for grip and get more comfortable driving it on the limit. As it was a fairly warm day I had the boost turned down to a conservative 18psi so it was probably only making 250whp to the rear wheels.

Link to a clip of one of my better lap times but far from great:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gSv...ew?usp=sharing

[willemml]

Changed the cv axle, finally drove it again! Brakes are much tighter after bleeding and steering is great after changing the front end parts.

[Mike Tries]

Took advantage of my friend's new quickjack lift to bleed the brakes (takes a little longer when the Brembos have 2 bleeders per calliper) and took it to our local racetrack Atlantic Motorsports Park in East Coast Canada. This is my 2nd year of taking the B6 there and slowly the lap times are getting better as I set the car better for grip and get more comfortable driving it on the limit.

Hell yeah! Get out there and rip up some pavement!

Edit: Just watched the clip. Nice job! I loved seeing you push that thing all the way out to the concrete runoff on the second-gear right-hander after the hairpin (top-left of the track... not sure which turn # it is). Also, the little G-Force instrumentation you had there dangling from the rearview mirror was showing us 45 degrees at times, so I think you were probably near 1G lateral--plus, it probably smelled nice if it was an air freshener. Keep it up!

[canonball]

motoza is really the only one doing good custom 1.8 audi tunes these days


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+1

I don't have much basis for comparison but I've been super happy both with the K04 tune and the stellar customer support at Motoza. 10/10 from me!

[CJM_RVA]

If by "today" you mean "over the last week and a half", I tackled the rear coolant flange replacement. Had to wait for parts/tools twice and work in several short periods, but I finally got it done and the cooling system flushed. Seems to be holding up; my heat isn't working but it hasn't worked in the entire time I've had the car so that's not news. In the process of getting everything apart, the lower heater hose and 2 PCV hoses broke, so those got replaced too.

While I was waiting for parts I also replaced the coil pack connectors, brake light switch, front license plate bracket, and overhead switch panel. So my sunroof works again, which is a bonus.

[TobiqueSlang]

If by "today" you mean "over the last week and a half", I tackled the rear coolant flange replacement. Had to wait for parts/tools twice and work in several short periods, but I finally got it done and the cooling system flushed. Seems to be holding up; my heat isn't working but it hasn't worked in the entire time I've had the car so that's not news. In the process of getting everything apart, the lower heater hose and 2 PCV hoses broke, so those got replaced too.

While I was waiting for parts I also replaced the coil pack connectors, brake light switch, front license plate bracket, and overhead switch panel. So my sunroof works again, which is a bonus.

Sounds like you might be doing the heater core in the near future as well.
Luckily it's a pretty easy job, one of the only cars I know of that the job doesn't involve tearing out the dash for.

[codemode]

Sounds like you might be doing the heater core in the near future as well.
Luckily it's a pretty easy job, one of the only cars I know of that the job doesn't involve tearing out the dash for.

I need to do a heater core as well before the winter. Does it matter which brand?

[TobiqueSlang]

I need to do a heater core as well before the winter. Does it matter which brand?

Not particularly, I think the only real rule of thumb is to make sure whatever you get is all aluminum, avoid anything with plastic tanks. Generally though, cheaper=harder to install for most parts.

[Gunnarrrrr]

I need to do a heater core as well before the winter. Does it matter which brand?

nissens all the way for radiator/heater/ac condenser/etc

not to be confused with the instant ramen company


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[Dr.B6Banter]

Hell yeah! Get out there and rip up some pavement!

Edit: Just watched the clip. Nice job! I loved seeing you push that thing all the way out to the concrete runoff on the second-gear right-hander after the hairpin (top-left of the track... not sure which turn # it is). Also, the little G-Force instrumentation you had there dangling from the rearview mirror was showing us 45 degrees at times, so I think you were probably near 1G lateral--plus, it probably smelled nice if it was an air freshener. Keep it up!

Haha thank you, regardless of the times it is a blast to drive there! Will be putting the front axles back in this weekend to help with the drive out of the lower-speed corners. RWD and open diff results in a lot of one-wheel peels and not a whole lot of acceleration lol

Been following the progress on your wagon, hope you get to take it out soon!

[Mike Tries]

I hope I can get it half-assed together at least for an HPDE this year to shake it down. If not that, then my gosh, I hope there's something on some schedule SOMEWHERE before the race school next Spring. I'd hate for my shakedown run to be at the school.

I always thought the A4 1.8t was too heavy and low-power to benefit from AWD on dry race tracks, but if you're experiencing traction issues with RWD, then I can't imagine what I was thinking daydreaming about FWD (what I thought of as the easier solution since they made them in FWD). Perhaps I'll rethink my desire for a less draggy drivetrain now that the car weighs less. I want to love the AWD (on the track--I already have fun with it in the snow)!

So tell me about this front axle pulling stuff... I always thought that to go RWD in our cars, you had to do weird stuff to the transmission--to block the center diff somehow so it didn't just desperately try to spin the front axles and send no torque to the rear. Were you really able to just... remove the front axles and that's it?

[Danisson]

Re-finished my ESP button, coins tray and cup holder faces with some high temperature matte black paint which actually gave it an interesting raspy texture. Also gave up any kind of symbol or text previously written on them as the clean look matches the custom hazard lights switch that I've done some time ago better. Sure I'll edit and upload a picture tomorrow as right now it's very dark outside ;)

[Gunnarrrrr]

I hope I can get it half-assed together at least for an HPDE this year to shake it down. If not that, then my gosh, I hope there's something on some schedule SOMEWHERE before the race school next Spring. I'd hate for my shakedown run to be at the school.

I always thought the A4 1.8t was too heavy and low-power to benefit from AWD on dry race tracks, but if you're experiencing traction issues with RWD, then I can't imagine what I was thinking daydreaming about FWD (what I thought of as the easier solution since they made them in FWD). Perhaps I'll rethink my desire for a less draggy drivetrain now that the car weighs less. I want to love the AWD (on the track--I already have fun with it in the snow)!

So tell me about this front axle pulling stuff... I always thought that to go RWD in our cars, you had to do weird stuff to the transmission--to block the center diff somehow so it didn't just desperately try to spin the front axles and send no torque to the rear. Were you really able to just... remove the front axles and that's it?

you need to weld the center diff, grab a spare junkyard one and go to town. Also need to either use some front cv flanges or grab those ecs axle delete pieces to keep pressure on the wheel bearings.

and stock up on spare rear axles, you’ll need them.


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[krazeedrivr]

Repaired the the cd-changer input on my Concert II head unit this week. The Bluetooth input I have uses the cd changer-in port and it hadn't worked for the last year. I pulled the Concert II out and disassembled it and found corrosion on the circuit board from what looks like leaking capacitors. I've been meaning to learn how to fix electronics so I watched some YT videos and learned how to diagnose bad capacitors with an ESR meter. I bought a meter and an assortment of capacitors on Amazon and stumbled my way through the process. I tested probably 100 capacitors on the board, and I probably only found 3 that were bad. I also destroyed a couple de-soldering them, but once I got those replaced and the radio back together, miraculously the changer input worked again.

[Danisson]

Hi everybody !
It's quarter past 9 PM here and I've just had my cup of coffee to somehow "extend" the night after all this adventure ;) Why do I say that ? Well, it was certainly NOT as simple as buying 4 speakers and replacing the ones on the car. Ordering old parts without actually seeing 'em is definitely very risky as you'd see... one came with the magnet separated (glue failed from the transport) and another one had its membrane pierced. Luckily enough I was able to fix both of 'em and have all set of four disassembled, cleaned and treated with silicone spray. Think that was all ? No chance ! So I did remember having some leftover pieces of sound deadening material from doing the bonnet a few months ago and I've decided to use 'em (as a treat) on the front door panels. So on I went cutting and rolling it onto them and man was I impressed ! No more empty plastic bucket sound. While I was at it I chose to replace all the clips with new ones and (re-) do all the wiring harnesses on all four panels. Nice and tight, but still not over ! Cleaned everything up and on with them with hurry 'cause night was setting in.

And this was just about yesterday :)
After cleaning some old clips (just in case) I went to bed thinking about all the things I've skipped while putting everything together... just to wake up today and take apart all the panels. This way I was able to fix all the little rust spots, paint 'em, re-do the wiring harnesses on the doors themselves with textile insulating tape (just as the factory did back in the day), re-glued the rain covers, zip tied the wires to be snug and of course replaced some clips which decided to broke after many times prying them off.

What can I say... happy with the sound, proud of the (pre-) maintenance work and deeply exhausted :)

[Gunnarrrrr]

interesting.

I found awhile back that the bose door speakers (non bose are glued) have 4 screws that can be removed and the speaker can be removed from the housing, and these 6.5” Dayton woofers from parts express for $7/ea fit perfectly, with about 3mm of clearance on the rear grille




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[ye1low]

interesting.

.. these 6.5” Dayton woofers from parts express for $7/ea fit perfectly, with about 3mm of clearance on the rear grille

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Sorry to bother you but any way to look up your past orders and post the part# for those? I'm looking for a nice 3-way set but in the meantime those look like perfect drop-ins. I'll order them today if they are still available.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Sorry to bother you but any way to look up your past orders and post the part# for those? I'm looking for a nice 3-way set but in the meantime those look like perfect drop-ins. I'll order them today if they are still available.

backordered for 2 weeks:

https://www.parts-express.com/6-1-2-...-4-Ohm-299-609

they’re actually the drivers from the dayton b652


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[krazeedrivr]

backordered for 2 weeks:

https://www.parts-express.com/6-1-2-...-4-Ohm-299-609

they’re actually the drivers from the dayton b652

Does anyone know the ohms of the original Bose speakers? My experience with Bose is that they use weird ohm stuff, and using a speaker with higher impedance could overdrive the amp.

[Gunnarrrrr]

Does anyone know the ohms of the original Bose speakers? My experience with Bose is that they use weird ohm stuff, and using a speaker with higher impedance could overdrive the amp.

Everything’s ~4ohm except the sub which is 1ohm(insane)

I checked most of them and they also read 3-4ohm.

if you upgrade the tweeters, 10000% do 8ohm because the stock ones are extremely inefficient, and the amp is tuned accordingly. higher efficiency tweeters even at 8ohms are still very loud.


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[Danisson]

The 2nd gen BOSE (the ones from A3 8P, which I got) are approx. 2 Ohms measured. (2.2 to be more exact :)

[egovreau]

Ordered a resonated Milltek cat back exhaust to replace the Borla currently installed.

That will likely become available sometime in the next month or so.

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[ye1low]

backordered for 2 weeks:

https://www.parts-express.com/6-1-2-...-4-Ohm-299-609

they’re actually the drivers from the dayton b652


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Thank you sir!

[Mike Tries]

It works! I drove it! (Shhhhh...) I'm surprised, to be honest. I guess I found all the grounds that I needed to find. I suppose a whole bunch of wires don't do anything anymore because I didn't plug them in and the car worked just fine. It did complain a lot though--I'm going to get quite sick of "BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP" every other second for the first 30 seconds of run time while it freaks out about all the crap I broke/threw away.

Anyway, I tested it out Saturday sometime, but then last night I moved it out of the center of the garage and did another "victory lap" around the circle where I live, and then cleaned the garage superhardcore. So much so, in fact.... that another car fits in there next to it! Fancy! So my wife has her space back (and I am grateful to her for being tolerant of this insane endeavor of mine).

[Danisson]

What's up guys !
Happily (and exhausted at the same time :) I am glad to present one of the best gifts I've ever got: UltraSport Alloys ! (18"x 8J, ET43) wrapped with Continental's "SportContact 6" tires (235/40/ZR18, 95Y, DOT 0723). Spent 10 hrs. today to clean, polish, wax and dress them with silicone. They are very, very rare here and that's why I have 17" of the same model. Man o man... WHAT A DAY ! Tomorrow they're getting up on the car ;)
*sorry for the bad quality, had just the cellphone with me ;)

[Mike Tries]

I pulled it out of the garage last night and cleaned it! With a leaf blower! Well, I emptied all the stuff out of it and vacuumed it first... but then I went at the interior with the leaf blower. Both actions were very satisfying as I vacuumed out probably 5 pounds of debris, schmutz, welding slag, crud, and grinding dust. Then, knowing that the blower probably got most of the stuff that I couldn't get with the vacuum felt pretty good, too. Many of my tools found their way back to the tool chests as well!

[willemml]

I pulled it out of the garage last night and cleaned it! With a leaf blower! Well, I emptied all the stuff out of it and vacuumed it first... but then I went at the interior with the leaf blower. Both actions were very satisfying as I vacuumed out probably 5 pounds of debris, schmutz, welding slag, crud, and grinding dust. Then, knowing that the blower probably got most of the stuff that I couldn't get with the vacuum felt pretty good, too. Many of my tools found their way back to the tool chests as well!

Awesome! Super satisfying to clean up a space after it's been messy/dirty for a while. "Most" of the tools hehe, the rest will probably wander back over the course of the next few months