Has anybody used Treadstone performance 1.8 ss manifold?

**Dwaller** · 11-04-2011 04:48 PM

Anybody runing this mani with their set up?http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...Turbo+Manifold

**gotboost** · 11-04-2011 05:00 PM

yes Iam runing their t25 manifold which is the same design as that new one.

**dougyfresh** · 11-04-2011 08:09 PM

Yes.

Me.

**Dwaller** · 11-05-2011 05:45 AM

Any thoughts good or bad ??

**Dwaller** · 11-05-2011 05:46 AM

Any pics on how the turbo sits,engine bay?

**dougyfresh** · 11-05-2011 06:44 AM

if I had power and a computer I could post pictures. but I don't because Connecticut Light & Power are a bunch of corporate fuck ups. (I'm posting via my phone with AZ Mobile).

Search under my username. You'll find what you are looking for.

**vinny.dtw** · 11-05-2011 07:59 AM

Thats dougyfreshs car. Hope that helps.

**dougyfresh** · 11-07-2011 09:44 AM

I have internet here at work (still no electricity at home... 9 days post-Halloween storm) and did some searching on this forum for you. Here are some more photos of this manifold in my B6.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/422519

I am using the stainless steel T3 flange version of this manifold. They discontinued the cast iron one. I am not sure if the T25 flange is also available anymore.

My wastegate is a TiAL MV-S 38mm v-band unit. I had the ATP 38mm 2-bolt to 38mm V-band adapter welded onto the manifold to prevent having another gasket to generate a leak from. I also had both the engine side and the turbo side flanges machined on a Bridgeport to verify the they are flat (I forget if Treadstone has them machined post casting but its a good idea to have it done).

For the exhaust side of the head I the OEM 8mm x 1.25pitch studs in the head with the OEM thick washers and OEM copper lock nuts. The washers allow you to use a 12mm 1/4" drive swivel socket on the top studs between the cylinders. The lower studs you can access with a good 12point box wrench. The two upper outside studs you can use a standard 12mm 1/4" drive socket with an extension.

The T3 flange uses 10mm x 1.5pitch hardware. I have had issues with this flange leaking on both the old T25 flange one I had and this T3 flange. That link above is my latest solution to preventing any leaks. Its been a long time (easily 10,000 miles) since I added those Stage8 fasteners and I have zero leaks. My theory on issues with this flange is due to the overhung mass of the turbo cantilevered out from the cylinder head without any additional bracing. My solution to this problem is to increase the strength of the T3 joint. Another solution could be to add in a brace but I wanted a clean look.

Clearance with the frame rail is getting tight with turbos this size (GT30R, GT35R) but my 30R clears without modifications to the frame rail or engine mounts. It is best to install the turbo to the manifold outside of the car so you can properly torque the T3 flange bolts. You can also install the manifold onto the car first and then the turbo onto the manifold... That is IF you are using bolts. There is not enough clearance on the frame rail to install the manifold onto the head and then install the turbo onto the manifold if you use studs for the T3 flange (who uses studs on T3 flanges anyway? That's two potentials for hardware loosening up on each corner of the flange.)

You can fit a full 4inch diameter TIP behind the B6 (single xenon) headlights. I've never tried with a bi-xenon set-up. Exhaust can easily be made by any good fabricator. I am not aware of any off-the-shelf TIP and exhaust downpipe for this manifold set-up. Turbo oil and coolant lines are pretty straightforward. I am using the PSI Concepts lines as noted in the link above. I have not ported the manifold to match the head and turbine housing. I think the exhaust ports on the manifold match the AEB head exhaust ports (going on memory here of my exhaust manifold gasket markings). T3 flange is a pretty solid match between the manifold and the turbine housing. Never had any issues with cracks on the stainless steel version. I have probably 30,000 miles on this stainless steel manifold.

**Dwaller** · 11-07-2011 11:59 AM

Originally Posted by dougyfresh

I have internet here at work (still no electricity at home... 9 days post-Halloween storm) and did some searching on this forum for you. Here are some more photos of this manifold in my B6.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/422519
Thank you for the pics and info,all of witch was very helpfull! I too will be using the ss one and a 3076 with 630 cc inj with uni SW.!!

I am using the stainless steel T3 flange version of this manifold. They discontinued the cast iron one. I am not sure if the T25 flange is also available anymore.

My wastegate is a TiAL MV-S 38mm v-band unit. I had the ATP 38mm 2-bolt to 38mm V-band adapter welded onto the manifold to prevent having another gasket to generate a leak from. I also had both the engine side and the turbo side flanges machined on a Bridgeport to verify the they are flat (I forget if Treadstone has them machined post casting but its a good idea to have it done).

For the exhaust side of the head I the OEM 8mm x 1.25pitch studs in the head with the OEM thick washers and OEM copper lock nuts. The washers allow you to use a 12mm 1/4" drive swivel socket on the top studs between the cylinders. The lower studs you can access with a good 12point box wrench. The two upper outside studs you can use a standard 12mm 1/4" drive socket with an extension.

The T3 flange uses 10mm x 1.5pitch hardware. I have had issues with this flange leaking on both the old T25 flange one I had and this T3 flange. That link above is my latest solution to preventing any leaks. Its been a long time (easily 10,000 miles) since I added those Stage8 fasteners and I have zero leaks. My theory on issues with this flange is due to the overhung mass of the turbo cantilevered out from the cylinder head without any additional bracing. My solution to this problem is to increase the strength of the T3 joint. Another solution could be to add in a brace but I wanted a clean look.

Clearance with the frame rail is getting tight with turbos this size (GT30R, GT35R) but my 30R clears without modifications to the frame rail or engine mounts. It is best to install the turbo to the manifold outside of the car so you can properly torque the T3 flange bolts. You can also install the manifold onto the car first and then the turbo onto the manifold... That is IF you are using bolts. There is not enough clearance on the frame rail to install the manifold onto the head and then install the turbo onto the manifold if you use studs for the T3 flange (who uses studs on T3 flanges anyway? That's two potentials for hardware loosening up on each corner of the flange.)

You can fit a full 4inch diameter TIP behind the B6 (single xenon) headlights. I've never tried with a bi-xenon set-up. Exhaust can easily be made by any good fabricator. I am not aware of any off-the-shelf TIP and exhaust downpipe for this manifold set-up. Turbo oil and coolant lines are pretty straightforward. I am using the PSI Concepts lines as noted in the link above. I have not ported the manifold to match the head and turbine housing. I think the exhaust ports on the manifold match the AEB head exhaust ports (going on memory here of my exhaust manifold gasket markings). T3 flange is a pretty solid match between the manifold and the turbine housing. Never had any issues with cracks on the stainless steel version. I have probably 30,000 miles on this stainless steel manifold.

ss