200k Miles Maintenance. Inputs Needed!!

[woolveren]

Hello all,

My 98 Audi A4 1.8 T has 210k miles on it. The car still runs very strong and is way better compared to the 2006 Corolla I have. I am planning to keep the car as long as I can because I am in love with the body curves and performance of the B5. Classic is a Classic and nothing can overpower them. For specific reasons (maybe my own), I rate the styling of B5 above newer ones.

So here, I need help with maintenance/ replacement of parts which are prone to failure when the car hits 200k miles. I have already replaced a lot in the past 20- 30k miles and below are the list:

Please go through this list below and suggest me the repairs that are needed soon:

Master Cylinder, Slave Cylinder, Clutch Disc, Pressure Plate – 160K

Front Axles (Left and Right) -180K

Timing Belt Kit, All Tensioners/ Idlers - 180K

Water Pump, Thermostat - 180K

Brake Rotors, Pads, Brake Hoses, Brake Flush Kit -180K

Power Steering Fluid Flush and Service- 180k

Cam Shaft Seal, Crank Shaft Seal, Valve Cover gasket -180K

Wheel Bearing Kit- 180K

Fuel Filter, Air Condition Service – 180K

Ignition Lock, Cylinder Switch – 180K

ABS Sensor Rings( Rear) , Oxygen Sensor ( Both), Crank Case Breather Hose- 200 K

TurboCharger( Borg Warner), Oil Line, All gaskets- 210K

Catalytic Converter -210K

Sway Bar Links, Spark plugs, A/C Belt Tensioner -210k

Motor and Transmission Mount- 210k

All four Tires, Fuel Injection Cleaning- 210K

I haven’t replaced much electrical components. Do I need to replace MAF, MAP, ABS Sensors, Knock Sensors, Pressure Sensors, Coil Packs, N75 valve, etc?

I am also rebuilding the whole suspension next week with Four new Struts, Coil Springs and Febi Control arm kit.

Please suggest me if I missed anything really important.

[woolveren]

Here is a pic of the car



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[murdered APR a4]

don't fix it unless it's broken....just saying, clean car though! Like the electrical components you listed i wouldn't touch them unless they go south. you can always clean the MAF though

[coolgraymemo]

Seems like you are caught up with maintenance.

I hope my B5 can make it that far...

[walky_talky20]

So fresh and so clean-clean.
Those facelift wheels really update that car nicely.

Looks like you will be needing at least the left rear lower door molding - it's looking a bit iffy. And I would suggest you just clean the MAF as part of regular maintenance. The ones for the AEB are expensive, so you don't want to replace it if it's fine. You could always log it with vag-com to check it's health if you like. I'm closing in on 200k pretty quickly myself. Currently at 182k.

[-:vw:-]

Sounds like you've got it covered well. Maybe check tie rod ends (unless I missed them) and rear control arm bushings, any squeaking back there? Wheel bearings (only if they have play), change/check tranny and rear diff fluid?

[woolveren]

@ Walky_talky20

That picture is two months old. I already replaced those broken moldings with new ones.

I had cleaned MAF sensors some months before.

Since the car gave CEL 17544 two days before, I am just thinking of changing MAF, N 75 and Boost Pressure valve..

All the vacuum lines are checked last month by the mechanic and he said everything looks pretty tight.

And knock sensors too..

[woolveren]

@ -:vw:-

Tie rod ends and rear control arms are there in the Febi front control arm kit (16 piece set with all hardwares) listed above, which I'm going to do next week.

[walky_talky20]

17544 is caused by low MAF readings at idle (most often). I'd be checking the long term fuel trims (block 032) to see what the part throttle trim looks like. If the part throttle trim is fine, I'd look for a vac leak between the MAF and turbo inlet, or in the PCV system. If the part throttle trim is very negative, I'd look for a boost leak between compressor outlet and the intake valves. If the part throttle trim is very positive, I'd be looking at a new MAF. Of course, sometimes the long term values can be a little misleading, so I'd also log the MAF directly on a 3rd gear pull to get a better idea of what was going on if the problem wasn't obvious (like a rip in the TIP, or a PCV system that's falling apart).

I don't think the 17544 could have much to do with the N75 at all (unless it's physically leaking or something).

[woolveren]

@Walky_talky20

I had cleaned the MAF some 5 months ago with the special cleaning spray.

For the last two days, the car idle is increasing (usual is 1000rpm, but it goes around 2000 rpm and settles back) when it comes to a stop light.

Or is it because of the cold weather (45 degree)? But since that code was thrown by the ECU, I believe something is wrong somewhere..:)

[walky_talky20]

Sounds like a vacuum leak if the idle is unstable like that. I would check the PCV system again, and the various vacuum lines and such. Mine did the same thing (idle went screwy at stop lights). Turned out the PCV crap was a-sploded and there was tear in the large L vacuum hose on the manifold. Butter smooth after all that was fixed up.

[woolveren]

Okay I will check as you said.

While looking yesterday, I found a leak from the side of the engine under the coolant reservoir. It's kind of deep and I didn't get from where it is coming. (Not sure oil or coolant)

I have attached two pictures of the same. Do you have any idea?





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[Seerlah]

As another mentioned, don't fix it if it isn't broken. For preventative maintenance, just do a flush/swap on all your fluids with new plugs (basic tune up). And deal with issues as they arise.

[geeky]

Quick question, did you not do the rear main seal while doing the clutch?

[woolveren]

@geeky

No, didn't do the rear main seal.

[woolveren]

@ walky_talky20

Today I took the car to my mechanic and he found out a cracked brake hose causing vacuum leak which is contributing to the engine code 17544. So I'm replacing the brake hose and calipers.

Since this is related to the brake, Will a cracked brake hose cause the ABS and Brake light to flash along with 3 beeps.?