So I Purchased and Installed a JHM LW Flywheel and Clutch setup

[nitroduck]

Why I replaced it:

My car has 90k miles on it and the clutch had 45k. The engine had been replaced as it was one of the cars with the early engine problems. It also had the clutch and flywheel replaced at this point.

I fell in love with the Nogaro car and it was one of the few I could find for sale so I swooped it up for a decent price in January knowing it would need some work. I do all my own work on cars as a hobby and this by far was the biggest pain in the ass yet. Most of the work I've done have been on older muscle cars. Building engines/suspension systems etc. I'm a Mechanical Engineer so I like tinkering with toys.

Over time I could feel a vibration was occuring through the clutch pedal and it was getting worse over time. I also noticed that I was seeing a bad engine vibration at 1800 and 2500-3000 RPM. I had a vibration at speed as well which was a mixture of the clutch / flywheel combination as well as a bad front CV joint. (Inner boot had ripped).

I bought two boot repair kits and then saw that the price for the installer was 130... So I just bought a new CV Joint. (Anyone want to buy some unused CV boots? :-) )

So I purchased a new LW flywheel and JHM Clutch and installed them.

The installation wasn't all that bad. I could probably do it again in 10-12 hours knowing all that I do now. I did the install on jackstands in my garage. The installation is of the clutch and flywheel were very simple. The worst part is getting the car to the point where you can actually install it.

Tips:

1. The hardest and most time consuming part was removing the bottom three bolts on the transmission. I found the only way I could get them out was to completely remove the rear two subframe bolts, and then loosen the front two bolts on the subframe to the engine. I had to use almost 2 feet in extensions and come from the front of the engine to get these bolts.

2. Buy a harbor freight transmission jack: Made life a ton easier. Used an impact gun to raise / lower transmission

3. Have all the correct tools before you start: 17mm Axle Hex Key ($40 in a kit at Sears)

4. The install will probably take a first timer 16 hours, but spread it out over a few days so if you break or want to replace something it will be no problem.

5. Clutch slave cylinder boot. Replace it while the transmission is out. If you do not install it correctly if it ever goes and ends up falling into the bellhousing when you miss the fork, the entire transmission is coming out.

6. Support the engine: I only used a 1x1" block of wood between the subframe and the rear of the block. It was approximately 4" long but had no problem supporting the weight of the rear of the engine. While also doing this the engine slid backwards an inch or two and I had to pry it forward and get it back into place for the motor mounts. (oops)

7. Downpipes go in before CV grease shields.

8. Mark the location of the shifter so that when you go to reinstall it you don't have to fool with the linkages or adjustments.

Consumables:
1 stripped bolt on inner CV Joint: Sourced @ McMaster
4 Exhaust bolts & Nuts to hold clamps in place: McMaster
Speed screws and nuts: My car was missing a bunch
Alignment for car: After removing the subframe which all the front suspension is attached to I need an alignment I believe.

Driving Impressions:
Coming Soon! (~475 miles to go)

The clutch made some noise the first time it was engaged like sandpaper on the aluminum. This was the first and only time I have heard the noise. I'm assuming it was normal as the clutch is brand new.

I do have some clutch chatter or it could be just because the clutch is breaking in. I noticed it below 1500RPM. I'll have to report back on this over time. I'm used to driving older muscle cars with lots of torque down low that don't rev as high as the S4. I'm still getting used to my shift points...

I did notice when the battery was unplugged the ESP light stayed on but turned off after a few minutes. I'm assuming it just reset.

The engine is MUCH MUCH smoother compared to how it was before. The difference is night and day. I'll post up some more driving reviews this week as this is my commuter vehicle.


Note: I was quoted ~1500 and 2 days to get the car done but a reputable and trusted shop. With the money I saved from doing it myself I can buy an exhaust and/or rims.

[B6JoeS4]

to you for taking this on. I've heard its a royal pain in the ass getting the trans lined up on re-assembly. I assume you followed the JHM flywheel torquing instructions to a T. I paid $900 to have my clutch installed about 10k ago but now I have a bad 3rd gear syncro....doing it myself on jackstands this time.

The ESP light being on for a little bit is normal. Sensors are just resetting and adjusting as you thought. Mine only rattles below 1400 or so, and you should NEVER hear it because if you do, you're bogging the car.

Did you go stage 3 or 4?

[nitroduck]

I did follow the JHM instructions. They were pretty basic in my opinion.

I went Stage 3 with my car. I'm not planning on doing any racing with my S4. Just spirited driving on backroads and commuting. I prefer something a little more raw than the B6 S4 for the track. (Just my opinion) Plus since its my DD, if I damage something on the car I don't want to use vacation days as downtime to repair the car.

I know I'm bogging the car @ 1500RPM. Still getting used to the higher revving V8s.

Getting the transmission lined up to get back onto the engine was a breeze with the jack. It has a tilting feature so I could adjust the platform to the correct angle.

[RAudi Driver]

Good work! Looks like Audizine has another talented member.

[Docwyte]

Why'd you need a clutch after only 45k miles? I'm on the factory clutch with 115k on it and it's still grabbing fine...

[nitroduck]

My father also helped as I was swamped with a lot of other work. This is indeed a two person job.

The clutch was actually in great condition after 45k. Plenty of meat left but I was having vibrations from the flywheel which caused for a replacement. Might as well do both just to be safe.

Also I believed the throw out bearing was going out after 45k.

Commuted to work today with the car.

Miles 25-50:
Clutch still has chatter below 1400 RPM. I am starting to adjust my driving habits to keep the car out of this range as I should have been the entire time.
Car is still running good and vibrations are minimal compared to what they were previously.... 450 more miles to go!

I do notice a slight pulsating in the clutch pedal but only slight at the almost bottom of the pedal push.

[Mr. Corey]

I also did this job recently it was a pita. I had a lift though, so a little easier than jack stands. Chatter is bad if your starting out in second gear...... say if theirs a cop be hide you and you don't want a exhaust ticket hahaha.