It is certainly possible that there was an existing but dormant issue that has only now been manifested.
In particular I'm referring to a rusty caliper piston. Often, contaminants can make it past the caliper's dust boot and begin to allow rust to form on the piston surface. Because the pads are worn, the piston is extended a bit leaving the piston a bit more exposed than it would be with new pads. Because the piston only moves *out* and never significantly *in* during normal operation, the rust that is forming on the piston surface is not an issue. However, to install new pads, the piston is fully compressed back into the caliper using a special tool. It so happens this tool somewhat obfuscates the necessary force that is required to press the piston back in. That is to say, the technician may not be aware that it is taking a bit of extra force to compress it due to the nature of the tool.
In any case, now the rusty part of the piston is at the center of the action, right on the piston seal. So as before, the rust was there but not causing any issues, now it may be. This may cause it to be slightly harder for the e-brake to release, or the piston to release in general and thus explain the issue at hand.
Of course it could certainly be something else entirely that *is* their fault, I'm just explaining a situation that *could* be the case where it is pretty much no ones fault other than maybe they didn't catch it before it left (and charge you extra right off the bat). This also assumes that the caliper is actually hanging up. If that is not actually the case, there could be another explanation. Brand new rotors are often covered in a temporary anti-rust coating, an orange slimy goo basically, to prevent rusting during shipment (*cough*China*cough*) and storage before install. You generally clean this crap off the braking surface during install, but the rotors are basically dunked in the stuff so you can't get it all. Luckily it easily burns off during the first few heat cycles, whilst causing a fair bit of smoke and pretty nifty smell, too.
And, generally speaking, no the brakes do not need to bled for a rotor/pad change. The hydraulic system is not (usually) opened during that service so there is no need.
Bookmarks