2.7t engine replacement

[going_crazy]

One of the turbo's in my car went bad and oil started to come out of the muffler (unbelievable amount of smoke); I was less than 10 miles away from home so I drove the car with the with Oil sign flashing red; anyway making the long story short; I think I lost my engine; but was able to find another one; the problem with the other engine is that it is on a manual transmission car; would this engine work for my car which is automatic; without modifications; someone mentioned the entire crankshaft needs to be replaced for it to work; but I find that very hard to believe.

please to give me as much info as you know. I appreciate your help.

[rollerton]

Not sure on the 2.7, I know on some VW's that the manual-trans equipped cars the crankshaft has a very minimal snout on it, and to swap it you simply grind it down. It's a seriously small amount and doesn't require precision.
Someone smart will chime in, but if there is a crankshaft difference I bet it there is an adapter or work-around.

[speedlyte]

check with audis4parts.com. They're a vendor on here that sell used audi parts. They have engines for good prices too.

[spyder101]

Well, I know typically that pilot bearings are installed in cranks for mating to manual transmissions and pilot bushings for auto trans. There will some modifications for sure.

[going_crazy]

so would the modifications be on the crankshaft; does it need replaced? I mean if it goes that deep I might as well try to find another engine; but if it is something that is only a couple of hours worth of my mechanic's time then I will go with this one; please to elaborate as much as you can.

thank you

[walky_talky20]

On the V6 engines (2.8, 2.7T) the pilot bearing is actually mounted in the flywheel directly, not in the end of the crank like the 1.8T and others. So you should have no problem, everything should bolt right up. I do not believe the crankshafts are different. There may be a spacer that will need transferred over with the drive plate, though.

[going_crazy]

I appreciate the input; any more info. I am actually in Ohio and driving across two states to get the engine; so any more assurance??????

thanks in advance.

[Scotty@Advanced]

I've got a good used 2.7 engine from an Automatic, it ran really strong prior to dismantling.

[going_crazy]

what about the combi valves; and the air compressor at the rear of the engine; I hear they exist in the auto but not in the manual; so would that affect my car or would it give a check engine lights.

[going_crazy]

any response; anyone......... Please..............

[redneck truck]

Only issues I'm aware of would be the kombivalves. Someone on here must be aware of how to code SAI out of your computer so you don't need kombivalves to function, and then you'll be golden. Guys do auto - manual swaps all the time on both the 2.7T and the 4.2 and never have an issue, so you should be fine. Buy away!

[Scotty@Advanced]

The issue with the crankshaft is going from a manual to auto engine swap you have to remove the torque converter bung from the crankshaft and you can't remove it without it getting destroyed, and IIRC the replacement part is the entire crankshaft. You can have a new bung machined, but there are far more auto engines out there than manuals.

Going from auto to manual is less of a headache, block off the SAI ports, and remove the bung and your gold.

[redneck truck]

In other words, OP is due for a transmission swap as well. Best to assemble the engine and trans together outside car and then install in car.

[going_crazy]

so in words I can understand; if I had to go for a manual engine; then best bit is to replace the trany along. in other words; best choice I have is to either swap with an engine that is auto; or to sell the car as is and move on.

[Mantis]

The only difference that I have personally found is the tone ring on the auto for the speed sensor, vs the flywheel on the MT. The heads are slightly different as noted with the combi valves and such. You could easily remove the spacer and tone ring from your current engine and put them on the manual motor


I am not guessing, this is personal experience

[going_crazy]

My car is Auto
Engine I am putting in is Manual
so what you are saying is that I actually can replace my engine (automatic); with the almost exact engine (manual); and it should work?; without having to deal with crank and all that. Please help me; I need to fix this car before the bad Ohio weather starts.

[Mantis]

Yup, there is nothing special about the crank, the AT uses a spacer and tone ring, where the MT flywheel bolts on directly. The lack of ports on the heads for the SAI would be a problem if you wanted to keep your SAI system, most delete it.

[Mantis]

Not sure if Scotty is calling the spacer a bung, but I removed my spacer with a small amount of heat, and a light tap from a deadblow hammer

[going_crazy]

so you actually did this; so I am talking to someone with experience; in other words; I can go ahead and buy the engine and can safely say it would fit.

[chrisbostonusmc]

If VJ Doesnt pick up my trans and motor you can grab it, Im including the wire harness, shifter, pedals, clutch master cylinder etc. Motor is a long block(no turbos) and i did the timing belt 20k ago.

[going_crazy]

I had no idea; but it seems that some are taking the SAI entirely out of the pictures; this is a really nice write up.

http://wiki.audiworld.com/index.php/SAI_Removal

[chrisbostonusmc]

hey I made a video of the car running before I pull out the trans and motor, so people know theyre not getting junk.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IoHytlyrPmE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBwOsBINEbo


Thanks!

[Scotty@Advanced]

Not sure if Scotty is calling the spacer a bung, but I removed my spacer with a small amount of heat, and a light tap from a deadblow hammer

Yup the spacer is a bung. The few times I've removed it I had to weld a bolt to it and spin it out. I've got a blind bearing puller now which is supposed to make it easier to remove but I have not had the opportunity to use it.