Teaser 2.0T Coil packs...

[erykv1]

due to the nature of how the coil is and how it sits on the plug, i believe the offset is negligible.

tons of people running centered adapter plates with no issues. nothing to back up that the side load is causing problems... mostly hearsay.

[vavJETTAw36]

"Side loading"? What A bunch of garbage. 6mm is almost quarter of an inch, which would be pretty noticeable. If that is the case then the 2.7 coils are being side loaded as well. They are almost identical.


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[odhinnhrafn]

You're changing yours every 3k miles :P

True story. lol.

[odhinnhrafn]

When it comes to grounding the coils, It sounds like this is the best way. Can anyone provide any insight on this?

Pin 2: 12V power GND - connect to valve cover or other "power ground" point
Pin 4: Signal GND - connect to ground wire that goes back to the ECU

Yes. I grounded mine to one of the bolts that holds down the adapter, and I've had zero issues. I have also wired another member's where I tied both grounds to the ECU gnd wire, and he's had no problems.

[S4gasm aka LOTR]

Can i use these pigtails for the 2.0 coil packs?
Or what is everyone using now?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Audi-VW-Ig...lV-s87&vxp=mtr

[e30mclow]

That's what I used.

[erykv1]

i have a few sets of pigtails left, LMK if youre interested.

[S4gasm aka LOTR]

i have a few sets of pigtails left, LMK if youre interested.

are you the one selling adapter plates as well? I need the adapter plates right meow.
I'm set on pigtails though. Just plates.

[mauromj]

I am to lazy to retype this for the context of this thread, so here is my Facebook post question I have about this conversion.


For those of you who have done the 2.0t coil conversion, I have a few questions regarding wiring. I have read all the threads out there on this, but just want to verify GND connections before I wrap my harness up.

The pinout of the 2.0t coil is:
Pin 1: Power (+12v)
Pin 2: GND
Pin 3: Signal
Pin 4: GND

Now, I have read through the long thread(s) on Audizine about misfires cause by tying pins 2 and 4 to the same ground. This make sense, because pin 2 should be chassis (power) grounded, where as pin 4 should be "signal grounded". The GND potential is likely different between the two.

However, I cannot find a signal ground on the ECU where pin 4 would be optimal to tie into. Mostly everyone I have heard of doing this conversion (successfully) has tied pin 4 to the valve cover, while running pin 2 to the brown wire, which makes its way to the chassis ground point.
This is still putting them at the same GND potential. Sure it may reduce noise/interference slightly, but I just don't see how this is still correct.

Can someone who has done this swap and had no misfires please chime in?

[bassist169]

IIRC it is only on a couple of the cylinders where there are not 4 separate wires for the conversion. It is on these cylinders where people try to use one ground for pin 2 and 4 together. This caused minor misfire issues for me and I went back in and grounded those particular cylinders to the valve cover and have been problem free since. But like I said it is only a couple of the coils that you will need to do this with. Hope that helps

[y3ti]

I just connected both ground wires... no issues going on 2 years.

Solder method. bkr7e NGKs. rdcyclist adapters. and i believe "E" revision coils.

[okkim]

Some people say that they don't have problems, but I know few that have had serious interference. And Audi has also grounded those to the different points, and they don't do that without a reason.

Pin 1: Power (+12v)
Pin 2: Power GND
Pin 3: Signal
Pin 4: Signal GND

Put the signal ground to the original wiring harness ground, and the power ground wires to the intake manifold grounding point. There is already the harness ground.

[vtraudt]

I run the "power" ground to the valve cover stud/nut (shortest possible circuit) and the signal to the original one in the harness (coming from ECU; but forgot which pin of the ICM carries the ECU ground). If all fails, run to one of the chassis grounds on the firewall.

On later conversion, I just did one ground, plus one extra ground to valve covers.

I got into this only because I was fighting persistent misfires on one cylinder 'for no obvious reason' (compression good, leak down good, spark correct), which ultimately turned out to be a broken exhaust valve spring that just broke/seated to not impact compression, but changed the ignition enough to trigger misfire counter. Had nothing to do with wiring the ICM delete/FSI coils.

I am running E (red) and F (black).

[heybiff]

Not sure if its OK to resurrect this thread, but I'm having some issues and was hoping I could get a few suggestions.

Installed the ECS coil kit yesterday, and it went pretty smoothly. Replaced the plugs with stock NGK's, etc, etc. Started up and noticed it was rough, friend said he thought it was missing. Drive it around the block, and yes it was definitely missing with CEL to drive the point home. Checked VAG, and it said misfire on cyl 2. Today, went out and checked to make sure coil was seated, checked connector was snug, ran it, and same. Just in case, swapped coil #2 for coil#5, rechecked connections and took it around the block again: CEL and misfire on cyl#2.

ECS is closed, and I would like o be able to drive to work Tuesday. Anything obvious I miss? Suggestions?

My rationale for using the kit was ease of install and having everything on hand. Anyone else had any issues with ECS kit?

TIA
B.

[vavJETTAw36]

Not sure if its OK to resurrect this thread, but I'm having some issues and was hoping I could get a few suggestions.

Installed the ECS coil kit yesterday, and it went pretty smoothly. Replaced the plugs with stock NGK's, etc, etc. Started up and noticed it was rough, friend said he thought it was missing. Drive it around the block, and yes it was definitely missing with CEL to drive the point home. Checked VAG, and it said misfire on cyl 2. Today, went out and checked to make sure coil was seated, checked connector was snug, ran it, and same. Just in case, swapped coil #2 for coil#5, rechecked connections and took it around the block again: CEL and misfire on cyl#2.

ECS is closed, and I would like o be able to drive to work Tuesday. Anything obvious I miss? Suggestions?

My rationale for using the kit was ease of install and having everything on hand. Anyone else had any issues with ECS kit?

TIA
B.

What gap are you using??


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[heybiff]

What gap are you using??

.028 checked them all before I put them in. My buddy laughed at me as he watched. I'm from back when they weren't pre-gapped.

B.

[vavJETTAw36]

.028 checked them all before I put them in. My buddy laughed at me as he watched. I'm from back when they weren't pre-gapped.

B.

Are you by any chance getting short to ground codes? Cel will not illuminate for this soft code.


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[heybiff]

I will check. I had a couple of codes that needed to be looked up, but they looked like they were related to the misfire -- beginning numbers..
16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
p0300-35-00 -
16686 Cyl 2 misfire detected
p0302-35-00

17861 Exhaust gas Temp Sensor 1 open or short to plu
p1453 35-00 - -
17865 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236)
P1457 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus

[vavJETTAw36]

I will check. I had a couple of codes that needed to be looked up, but they looked like they were related to the misfire -- beginning numbers..
16684 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
p0300-35-00 -
16686 Cyl 2 misfire detected
p0302-35-00

17861 Exhaust gas Temp Sensor 1 open or short to plu
p1453 35-00 - -
17865 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236)
P1457 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Plus

Ok not sure about your EGT but if you had the codes before and it wasn't misfiring, it's likely that something you changed is causing misfire. Swap the Ecs coil adapter from cyl 2 with a different one to rule out the harness.


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[heybiff]

Swap the Ecs coil adapter from cyl 2 with a different one to rule out the harness.

Do you mean swap the entire cable assembly from side to side? Didn't think about that, but I guess that would be the next step. It def wasn't the coil. I guess since I have to just about take everything apart to get the cable out, I might as well pull the plug too just in case.

B.

[vavJETTAw36]

Do you mean swap the entire cable assembly from side to side? Didn't think about that, but I guess that would be the next step. It def wasn't the coil. I guess since I have to just about take everything apart to get the cable out, I might as well pull the plug too just in case.

B.

Pull your engine covers and you should have access to your cables... switch one thing at a time. If that doesn't yield anything, swap spark plug. #2 is easy to get to so you shouldn't have to remove much at all.


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[heybiff]

Swapped cable assemblies from side to side, checked connections to make sure they were snug, and still misfire on Cyl#2. Oddly, engine feels strong otherwise. Taking a break before going out to pull the plug.

Fingers crossed.

UPDATE:
swapped out new NGK plug on #2 for the old worn plug, misfire gone! Now misfire has moved to #5. Will repeat tomorrow on #5 and see what develops. SMH.

B.

[Panpacient]

Hi I just bought a bundle of 2x 1J0971658L , advise te how to connect to the computer ? (Audi s4 b5) Thank you

[vavJETTAw36]

Hi I just bought a bundle of 2x 1J0971658L , advise te how to connect to the computer ? (Audi s4 b5) Thank you

Searching that part number brought up wiring harness for the 1.8t. That said, it's not a direct replacement. I am sure since it's just wires that you can make it work but seems like a PITA. And you'd have an extra coil plug on each side.

Hooking into the computer is easy. Simply cut off the zip tie from the back of the ecu harness( mine is already missing)


, pull off the back that the zip tie attached to.


Then on the connector side there are pink clips you pull out.



That will release all million wires so be careful to not allow all the others to pull out or you'll have a nightmare putting them back together.



Simply push in the new connector ends with wires attached and slide the pink retaining clips back in. You'll obviously have to run the new harness to the engine somehow.




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