Slowest build thread you will ever read.

[iamshayan]

I am dealing with it personally, I was just making a point.

I'm not the type of person to throw a fit like a small child in public to get what I want. I would rather be an adult about it and not have any public issues and "bad blood," so to speak, between myself and another person.

no worries on the thread jack still good info. Personally that's why i don't want to order a kit, I would rather piece it together myself. that way when I'm waiting for things, i know its my fault and i can only get mad at myself.
I am Really fortunate that I can post here and read about your guys past experiences. although i understand what you mean about not crying like a child it is also important to make the public aware of these situations.
I'm planning on ordering alot of my parts from Integrated Engineering. Their site seems' the most organized and trustworthy.

[20vturbo]

I use supertech in my car and never had any issues with them, I did have issues with ferrea, the springs were binding at high revs, so bad that they were touching the nuts from the studs...I have since used supertech with 0 issues...My entire valve train is supertech with schrick cams
I spoke to a guy that had serious issues with je, pistons were too noisy and were triggering the knock sensors, this I know happened to more than one guy, the car was pulling timing for no reason, the ecu was taking the noise from the pistons as engine knock.You may have to desensitize your knock sensors if you use je, it's a hit or miss thing, they might have fixed those issues by now, but this is what I heard and I was considering using je as well.When you get pistons ask for the tool steel wrist pin if you can, some people shattered those as well
And Mike Hood, his car is a daily driver not an drag car, supertech and mahle or ina pistons are very similar to oem but improved for strength and use factory rings and tolerances, not to mention are prob cheaper

[M-Hood]

I use supertech in my car and never had any issues with them, I did have issues with ferrea, the springs were binding at high revs, so bad that they were touching the nuts from the studs...I have since used supertech with 0 issues...My entire valve train is supertech with schrick cams
I spoke to a guy that had serious issues with je, pistons were too noisy and were triggering the knock sensors, this I know happened to more than one guy, the car was pulling timing for no reason, the ecu was taking the noise from the pistons as engine knock.You may have to desensitize your knock sensors if you use je, it's a hit or miss thing, they might have fixed those issues by now, but this is what I heard and I was considering using je as well.When you get pistons ask for the tool steel wrist pin if you can, some people shattered those as well
And Mike Hood, his car is a daily driver not an drag car, supertech and mahle or ina pistons are very similar to oem but improved for strength and use factory rings and tolerances, not to mention are prob cheaper

LOL you make it sound like my car has never seen the streets. Odd seeing that my 2032cc engine was built in 2003 and was driven every single day up till Aug 2006. From 2003-2005 my car was running custom GIAC tuning and from 2005-2006 it was daily driven with the 034 IIC stand alone.

What exactly on the JE piston is causing all the noise? Because to me it sounds more like a mistake on the part of the person that put the pistons in. Maybe incorrect ring gap or just too large of a bore for the pistons that were going in.

BTW if going JE pistons there is no reason to go Tool Steel now, JE has already upgraded their wrist pins to the point that the standard mild pin is much thicker and the Tool Steel pin is pretty much a solid piece which isn't all that great to go with now since it would add a good amount of weight and could be bad if looking to rev the motor high.

[iamshayan]

Funny how things change.

Im looking to build something that I can daily yet would still be really fun to drive.
I wont be going efr but gtrs 71r with a cmfx400 and ME7

Plans for the block.
06A '03Eng. Block
Hone
Hot Tank
Fresh Gaskets
Fresh Rings
OE Pistons
OE Crank
Fresh Bearings
I.E Rods 144x19
new Oil Pump
new T-Stat.

Head plans
Pressure test current head,
Replace CCT if test passed.
If failed.
Purchase complete AEB head, Have it pressure tested.
Add VVT / new CCT.

Turbo plans
Sticking with the current GTRS for now
possible 3071 + PSI manifold/ Downpipe in the spring.


INTEGRATED ENGEERING SHOPPING CART
IE 144x19 Rods
IE ultimate 06a Rod install kit.
IE Lower Block Gasket kit
Gates racing timing belt
Main bearing set.
Thrust Washers
Oem Main bolts.
1.8t Poster
Tstat.
Oil pump.


What else am I forgetting about any input is most appreciated. Thanks guys!

[nein-reis]

Looking good!

[iamshayan]

Long overdue for an update,

I picked up my motor a few weeks ago, brought it home and its been sitting in the garage ever since, because hey, lets face it this is the slowest build thread ever.




anyways, I ordered a GTRS 71R, and a CM FX400 from CTSturbo. apparently they're all backordered and stuff so Its going to sit some more till those parts come in.

also picked up an aeromotive 340 pump thanks to wet0willy01


and a PODI dual pod and LC-1 wideband Controller thanks to winston for the s&d sale



new downpipe thanks to local shop "forcefed dynamics"


AWE FMIC thanks to Erik at pfaff tuning. (may still upgrade to a treadstone core)


watermeth kit


s4 headliner


rota grids, GC impreza

[Operator]

Long overdue for an update,

I picked up my motor a few weeks ago, brought it home and its been sitting in the garage ever since, because hey, lets face it this is the slowest build thread ever.

Poor tire!!!


Looks like it's coming together..... Slowly, but heh that's in line with the title I kid, mods are looking good!

[aysix]

This makes me want a 1.8T, look how simple that motor iss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol

[iamshayan]

This makes me want a 1.8T, look how simple that motor iss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! lol

yep, childs play compared to a 2.7t,
Its good for me though, as I'm no pro and everything is a learning process.
Probably the best platform to learn on. IMO

Poor tire!!!


Looks like it's coming together..... Slowly, but heh that's in line with the title I kid, mods are looking good!

lol tire was nfg. slow and steady wins the race!



In other news! Parts showed up today, So did an engine crane. Shits going to get real soon.
pics for now.

[Charles.waite]

Ooh what clutch is that?

#clutchwhore #nicevase

[iamshayan]

Lol just noticed its in that pic too. Its a cm fx400 6 puck.

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[Charlie240sxt]

U need to clean your bong water.

[jubei4769]

I love that IE manual tensioner.


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[foley803]

In for more metric system and dirty bong water pics!

[Dan[FN]6262]

U need to clean your bong water.

What this guy said

[Dan[FN]6262]

Actually, the water is clean, but the bong is need of some 91% hahaha

[boostedAvant]

Actually, the water is clean, but the bong is need of some 91% hahaha

This.

[iamshayan]

[613B6]

Do werk son

[Siggiepop]

not fair. I want a day off to do mine

[Charles.waite]

How long did it take from jack stands to engine out on a crane? I plan on doing this exact thing int he coming months. Doing clutch plus timing plus a ton of little things so I figure pulling the engine makes the most sense. You dropping the pan and cleaning the oil pickup too?

[jubei4769]

How long did it take from jack stands to engine out on a crane? I plan on doing this exact thing int he coming months. Doing clutch plus timing plus a ton of little things so I figure pulling the engine makes the most sense. You dropping the pan and cleaning the oil pickup too?

hes got that other motor already together so id assume its new pick up tube in it

[dougyfresh]

How long did it take from jack stands to engine out on a crane? I plan on doing this exact thing int he coming months. Doing clutch plus timing plus a ton of little things so I figure pulling the engine makes the most sense. You dropping the pan and cleaning the oil pickup too?

If you know what you are doing. 3 hours from removal of the first bumper bolt.

[dougyfresh]

rota grids, GC impreza

Did you get them drilled out to 5x112 or use wobble bolts? What size and offset are you running?

[Charles.waite]

If you know what you are doing. 3 hours from removal of the first bumper bolt.

Ok thanks. I'll count on double that for myself. I know I can get the front end off in under an hour no problem, its the engine removal that will be a learning process for me.

[agentsmith988]

Totally off-topic.. but I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that has the source name from the RNS-E off-centered in the DIS. I thought that I just had a strange bug.

[iamshayan]

Did you get them drilled out to 5x112 or use wobble bolts? What size and offset are you running?

18x9.5 et 38 wobble bolts

Ok thanks. I'll count on double that for myself. I know I can get the front end off in under an hour no problem, its the engine removal that will be a learning process for me.

Lol I started around 3pm and just put the car back on the floor and pushed it into the garage at 1030. This included a lot of dicking around, beers and breaks (to use 99% isopropyl alcohol)

Totally off-topic.. but I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that has the source name from the RNS-E off-centered in the DIS. I thought that I just had a strange bug.

Never even noticed lol.

not fair. I want a day off to do mine

Lol I didnt have the whole day off I had class all morning!



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[dougyfresh]

Ok thanks. I'll count on double that for myself. I know I can get the front end off in under an hour no problem, its the engine removal that will be a learning process for me.

If you are cleaning the oil pump pick-up than it makes sense to pull the engine if you do not have a lift (with a lift you can support the engine and drop the front subframe to do the oil pump). I pulled the engine on my B5 because the oil pump pick-up was clogged. I pulled the engine and put it on my engine stand. Replaced the oil pump & pickup, replaced the rear coolant flange, replaced the VVT tensioner, replaced the valve cover gasket, replaced the vacuum lines. Put it all back into the car.

If you are not planning on touching the oil pump than leave the engine in the car.

[iamshayan]

Hey guys, Pulled all the stuff off the motor today. Currently facing some issues when trying to bolt it to the new block.
hopefully someone can chime in.
My problem is that I'm using a VW block... Its an AWW, the thermostat doesn't fit in the housing and the motor mount bracket that bolts to the block seems to need different bolts.

Do I source these bolts from the dealership?
Do I trim the housing on the block or the thermostat itself?
also struggling to get the crank pully off. any tips?
TIA.

[Charlie240sxt]

Think it was dougyfresh's build thread i was reading and he was using some other type of block and had problems with the thermostat not fitting right tho he resolved it ask him.

[Charles.waite]

Think it was dougyfresh's build thread i was reading and he was using some other type of block and had problems with the thermostat not fitting right tho he resolved it ask him.

I believe the block was machined to accept the AMB thermostat.

[dougyfresh]

Hey guys, Pulled all the stuff off the motor today. Currently facing some issues when trying to bolt it to the new block.
hopefully someone can chime in.
My problem is that I'm using a VW block... Its an AWW, the thermostat doesn't fit in the housing and the motor mount bracket that bolts to the block seems to need different bolts.

Do I source these bolts from the dealership?
Do I trim the housing on the block or the thermostat itself?
also struggling to get the crank pully off. any tips?
TIA.

new bolts won't help.

The B6 thermostat is deeper than the relief machined into the block. The proper way to do it is to machine the block to accept the b6 thermostat (what I did). The other way is to sand down the B6 thermostat and use coolant sealant when you bolt it up. The later can be prone to leaks over time (which is why my 2nd built motor... the current one I have... I machined the block).

my current block (a VW block) (the engine that is for sale) after machining.




best of luck!

[b6Hate4]

Shayan thats a nice smoking lamp.

Was I a bit late on that one?

[iamshayan]

^ go home zach.

new bolts won't help.

The B6 thermostat is deeper than the relief machined into the block. The proper way to do it is to machine the block to accept the b6 thermostat (what I did). The other way is to sand down the B6 thermostat and use coolant sealant when you bolt it up. The later can be prone to leaks over time (which is why my 2nd built motor... the current one I have... I machined the block).


best of luck!

ahh, I see. The shop that did my motor work recommended sanding down the Tstat when I called them.
I remembered reading about someone machining the block but I didnt realize it was you!
If I choose to machine the block can I just use a dremel? If not what would you recommend?
I may opt for the sanding method, as if anything should go wrong.... tstats are easily replaceable whereas a block is not.

also I think you may have misread my post about the engine mount bracket bolts, (it wasn't worded very well to be honest sorry!)
I'm having trouble on the exhaust manifold side, Trying to bolt the bracket that the engine mount bolts to.
the two top bolts fit in normally but the lower bolt seems to be a smaller size.
Also on the same side I cant get the bolt for the starter to fit into the new block.


My assumption is that these bolt holes lay dormant when the block is bolted to a VW. as the mounting positions are different? and they may have been filled with dirt or sand/rust?

I'm going to try chasing the threads but I was just wondering if there was any information regarding if it required different size bolts for a VW block.

1 step forward 2 steps backwards. Always.

[iamshayan]

Bump?

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[vinny.dtw]

new bolts won't help.

The B6 thermostat is deeper than the relief machined into the block. The proper way to do it is to machine the block to accept the b6 thermostat (what I did). The other way is to sand down the B6 thermostat and use coolant sealant when you bolt it up. The later can be prone to leaks over time (which is why my 2nd built motor... the current one I have... I machined the block).

my current block (a VW block) (the engine that is for sale) after machining.




best of luck!

I just sanded down the thermostat, and so far so good. But it is QUITE annoying to fidget with it. I'd recommend machining the block and doing it right the first time, if the opportunity presents itself.

[dougyfresh]

ahh, I see. The shop that did my motor work recommended sanding down the Tstat when I called them.
I remembered reading about someone machining the block but I didnt realize it was you!
If I choose to machine the block can I just use a dremel? If not what would you recommend?
I may opt for the sanding method, as if anything should go wrong.... tstats are easily replaceable whereas a block is not.

I do not recommend a dremel. Too much error associated with a hand operation such as a dremel.

Yes, you can sand the thermostat down. You will need to take off material down to just near the o-ring. I recommend adding some coolant sealant to the o-ring when you assemble it. That will prevent any small leaks. The sealant comes in a tube like gasket sealant and can be found at your local auto parts store.

My first 2.0L was an AMU block from a TT 225. I sanded the thermostat on that engine.

Sanded thermostat:



My second 2.0L (current block) is out of a passat.

also I think you may have misread my post about the engine mount bracket bolts, (it wasn't worded very well to be honest sorry!)
I'm having trouble on the exhaust manifold side, Trying to bolt the bracket that the engine mount bolts to.
the two top bolts fit in normally but the lower bolt seems to be a smaller size.
Also on the same side I cant get the bolt for the starter to fit into the new block.


My assumption is that these bolt holes lay dormant when the block is bolted to a VW. as the mounting positions are different? and they may have been filled with dirt or sand/rust?

I'm going to try chasing the threads but I was just wondering if there was any information regarding if it required different size bolts for a VW block.

1 step forward 2 steps backwards. Always.

Your assumption is correct --> holes are not used on a VW. Chase the threads with a good tap and tapping fluid. Should be okay after that.

[khalilz]

random question! is that the only differences between the 1.8t engine in audi's and vw??

[iamshayan]

Quick update. Our Internet has been cut so I can't link pictures for a bit. Check my Flickr. If you're interested

Got the threads chased and mounted everything on the exhaust side. Ran all the lines for the turbo and got the engine mount bracket on.
Going out to work on the intake side. Sand tstat mount accessories etc. Should drop in later today. Hopefully.

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[AudiA4_20T]

random question! is that the only differences between the 1.8t engine in audi's and vw??

for the block itself, yes. The TT225 motor is different. The accessories (intake manifold, turbo, manifold, etc) vary