Turbo Nerds "Bout damn time" build thread

[Turbwhistle]

Sooo cleannn! Looking good what was the final bore diameter?

[CCA4]

change one valve (I don't like the way it's looking me in the eye, I can tell she wants to go)

i lol'd

Nice lookin build you've got so far!!

[Turbo Nerd]

Sooo cleannn! Looking good what was the final bore diameter?

Yea it come out good.... 82.5

[Seerlah]

I don't like hating on vendor's threads, but don't send your center diff to JHM. There is a guy on Vortex who sells the required machined washers for $55 shipped (picked them up myself a while back). Then a member on here made a DIY for you to do it yourself. If you can asemble an engine block and take out your steering rack, there is no reason why you should not be able to do it yourself.

http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthr...ike-StaSIS-JHM (link to installation DIY is on first post)

[Turbo Nerd]

Thanks for the link, I'll check it out tonight.

[Turbwhistle]

Any updates?

[Turbo Nerd]

Small ones, my grandma is in the hospital so I've been there mostly the last two weekends. I've been really waiting on my main studs that took FOREVER to come in, so I didn't do too much since I didn't have them in. Also went to the dealer on Thursday to pick up misc. gaskets, pilot bearing, flywheel bolts, ect. Here's what I did today....











ARP head bolts, ARP main studs, OEM crank bolt, OEM flywheel bolts.



Hung my pistons.





Test fitted my gauges to the custom pod.









Also plasti-gauged my crank and rod bearings, cleaned the shit out of my dual mass flywheel, still haven't cleaned my engine bay. I'm not sure how I'm going to do that as I don't want to f*ck up my driveway, I might get it towed to the car wash down the street from a buddy but idk yet. That's about it for now, I hope to start assembly next week sometime.

[Turbwhistle]

Nice

[Turbo Nerd]

Thanks, it's going slow but it's tough when you work 60 hours a week and too tired to do shit when you come home. Oh yea so when I went to the dealer to get my parts the parts guy was a complete moron.... I felt like I went there, walked behind the counter, went on ETKA and made my own order, while he just went to the back with the part numbers and got my stuff. I told him I needed a new oil dipstick tube since I broke mine (would of bought a new one anyway), he goes "oh you got a discount" I'm cool I look at the screen and it say $29.xx. My eyes were like , you call that a discount I said? There like $9 bucks online new OEM ones, I told him I'll pass there is no way I'm spending 30 bucks on a dipstick tube without the dipstick (even with the dipstick f*ck that).

[Turbo Nerd]

What's needed to be worthy for the build section?

[biketsai]

I like where this thread is going. Overall, can you give us an estimate of a ballpark cost that you have put into this rebuild? I really which I had a casa car!

[Turbo Nerd]

Yea let me do some adding real quick...

[Turbwhistle]

...

[Turbo Nerd]

Somewhere in the ballpark of $3600. Don't include everything listed in my first post since I had some of the parts.

Spare motor, internals with all hardware/gaskets/studs/bolts ect., machine work, misc. things from the auto parts store and stealership, clutch, gauges, oil pump, idk a bunch of things.

[Turbwhistle]

I am thinking around $7000 for an entire gt2871r build. I dont know how much with the block work though.

[Turbo Nerd]

No that's too much. Even if you need turbo, lines, manifold, injectors, maf housing, tune, exhaust, intake, intercooler ect. Can be had for much cheaper.

[Turbwhistle]

Full gt2871r kit from ringer racing with tune and fueling, larger fmic, rods, pistons, all mounts, clutch and flywheel, exhaust, short shifter. I got 5600 in my cart with just rods, gt28 kit, short shiter,and mounts. Then figure in 1000 for exhaust, 600 for pistons, 600-1200 for intercooler, then misc parts. Its up there around 7000.

[Turbo Nerd]

Also about the block work, you can just add rods. I spent 540 on pistons and 600 on block work, so I'd think you could have a resealed engine with upgraded rods for well under $1000 (I bought rifle drilled rods for 355 shipped). It all depends what you want and what your doing, I'm doing everthing.... every seal, gasket, timing belt kit, new this, new that ect.

[Turbwhistle]

I think the 1000 for the motor build seems a bit low, maybe shops in your area are cheaper. I am thinking like 1500-2000 if i were to do a 2l build.

[jaychen]

Wish my motor was this straight forward, your build is coming along nicely.

[Turbo Nerd]

Oh I was saying just dropping in rods and calling it a day. Are you saying 1500-2000 for machine work alone? If you were doing a 2871 I would just do rods, I would of went that route but my block had to be machined which required me to go with big bore pistons. I'm going bigger though after winter so I'm going "all out" high revving 1.9ish litre (not quite 1.9). So it all depends what are your future plans, but you don't need a 2L for a 2871.

[Turbo Nerd]

Wish my motor was this straight forward, your build is coming along nicely.

Why what's up with yours?

It's coming, slowly but surely.

[Turbwhistle]

well, i was thinking about a 2l build just for the quicker spool. The 7000 was scat rods and maybe pistons.

[Turbo Nerd]

Meh, I wouldn't spend the extra 2-3 or so grand for a couple hundred RPM's. More headache, more money, more time loss from driving the car. I wish I would of just did rods in my old motor before I blew it, would of saved me a grip of money.

[flynnr]

I am thinking around $7000 for an entire gt2871r build. I dont know how much with the block work though.

This is for sale on my local audi forum - very reputable seller, i have met him and seen this kit in person. He took this out because he is building his car into a racecar

"Parting out this Turbo kit to make room for another. All parts are in great shape and ready for a new home. I dnyo'd at the last 034motorsport Dyno Day at DBPerformance and made just under 300wheel HP and Torque to match with no problems. I'll post a Dyno sheet ASAP.

Whats included:
Garrett GT2871R Ball Bearing Turbo
ATP Cast Manifold
ATP Down Pipe
550cc high amp Injectors
034 Fuel rail with Fuel Pressure gauge
V-Band Turbo to DP
OE ECU w/ MIKA TUNE (not pictured)
Borla Exhaust (not pictured)
All Turbo lines and hardware

All you'll need is some gaskets that fell apart when we removed the kit.
[email protected]
Asking: 2,150.00 OBO "

[jaychen]

Full gt2871r kit from ringer racing with tune and fueling, larger fmic, rods, pistons, all mounts, clutch and flywheel, exhaust, short shifter. I got 5600 in my cart with just rods, gt28 kit, short shiter,and mounts. Then figure in 1000 for exhaust, 600 for pistons, 600-1200 for intercooler, then misc parts. Its up there around 7000.

1200 for ic? what are you smoking?

Get a genuine garret core for 300ish and have a mate tig you up some pipes for a carton of beers.

[Turbwhistle]

Good shit, just no money. There is also a psi turbo kit for sale that seems good. I know kneel runs it and he likes it. I would like to do a precision turbo, if i can figure out a kit. The gt28 kits just make it so easy.
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/...rbo-kit&cat=21

I would almost like to go with this kit and run the hp5857sp.
http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/product...it-2589-1.html

[Turbwhistle]

1200 for ic? what are you smoking?

Get a genuine garret core for 300ish and have a mate tig you up some pipes for a carton of beers.

I am saying if someone were to go with a er intercooler its around $1200ish. I personally think i would go with a treadstone core for $250, and make/buy the piping.

Treadstone core
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...11+Intercooler

[Turbo Nerd]

I have a TR8L.

[Turbwhistle]

How do you like it?

[Crispy222]

I paid $709 for my block work. That included:
83mm bore with torque plate (extra with torque plate since it requires more time to install the plate and uninstall it. They really break it down into .1 hours)
hone and cross hatching
rotating assembly balanced, crank pulley to clutch pressure plate
block line check
magnaflux block deck
wash and clean block/blow out all blind holes, ready for paint and assembly
polish crank

Do you not need the oversized headgasket to run 82.5mm bore? IIRC OEM 1.8t headgasket only went to 81.5mm bore.
http://www.intengineering.com/Overbo...14943-1-2.html

Did you watch the videos on 1.8t engine assembly? I thought they were a great help in all the little tricks like putting the retaining rings in the pistons for the wrist pins. I would defiantly recommend getting rid of that dual mass flywheel. It would suck big time to have to pull the motor or trans out after it has been together for a week to replace it. They basically fall apart and fail. In the future, I'd go with the SPA manifold. Install it on the head before putting the head back on the car if you're doing that at the same time. It makes it easier. In your build list, you put IE rods, but later you wrote IE rep rods, Ebay? I haven't heard that many people using these since IE rods are already so reasonably priced.

[Turbwhistle]

I dont know, what do you guys think of the gtx3071r?

[Turbo Nerd]

I paid $709 for my block work. That included:
83mm bore with torque plate (extra with torque plate since it requires more time to install the plate and uninstall it. They really break it down into .1 hours)
hone and cross hatching
rotating assembly balanced, crank pulley to clutch pressure plate
block line check
magnaflux block deck
wash and clean block/blow out all blind holes, ready for paint and assembly
polish crank

Do you not need the oversized headgasket to run 82.5mm bore? IIRC OEM 1.8t headgasket only went to 81.5mm bore.
http://www.intengineering.com/Overbo...14943-1-2.html

Did you watch the videos on 1.8t engine assembly? I thought they were a great help in all the little tricks like putting the retaining rings in the pistons for the wrist pins. I would defiantly recommend getting rid of that dual mass flywheel. It would suck big time to have to pull the motor or trans out after it has been together for a week to replace it. They basically fall apart and fail. In the future, I'd go with the SPA manifold. Install it on the head before putting the head back on the car if you're doing that at the same time. It makes it easier. In your build list, you put IE rods, but later you wrote IE rep rods, Ebay? I haven't heard that many people using these since IE rods are already so reasonably priced.

I think I seen the video last year or something. I bought the rods from a IE reseller, they 99.9% exactly the same as integrated rods just cheaper. I paid 355 for those + the rifle drilling option, I don't care if they don't have the IE logo on the rod so it wasn't an issue for me. About the head gasket, the OEM one can go to 82.5mm so anything beyond that will require a big bore head gasket. I would of went with a larger bore but the pistons were more $ than a big bore head gasket was more $ and I didn't feel that going to a 83mm piston or larger was worth to me so that's why I stuck with 82.5mm and OEM head gasket (elring).

[Turbo Nerd]

Oh yea about the retaining clips they went in like a breeze for me. Took about 30 minutes taking my time lubing everything and installing all of them.

Edit: My dual mass should be fine, if it held up 158k from the factory and a 2871 running 18+psi I don't think I will have a problem. If it causes a problem then hey whatever I'll go with a twin disc I don't care. It's not like I will be launching this thing all that much anyways.

[Turbwhistle]

I think i would just get the steal smfw now, rather then later. Faster revs is always nice.

[Turbo Nerd]

Idk we will see, I eventually want to throw my AAN motor in the car after I see what the 1.8 can do.

Edit: Sorry I forgot to respond about the intercooler. I haven't used it yet, I used my eBay front mount and bought this right before I blew the motor. It looks nice though lol.

[Crispy222]

Oh yea about the retaining clips they went in like a breeze for me. Took about 30 minutes taking my time lubing everything and installing all of them.

Edit: My dual mass should be fine, if it held up 158k from the factory and a 2871 running 18+psi I don't think I will have a problem. If it causes a problem then hey whatever I'll go with a twin disc I don't care. It's not like I will be launching this thing all that much anyways.

If this car is daily driven at all, any travel/stop and go, you will not want a twin disk. Get the FX400 240mm.

[Turbwhistle]

You must really love your car.

[Turbwhistle]

This, also i think the steel lwfw is best.

[Turbo Nerd]

If this car is daily driven at all, any travel/stop and go, you will not want a twin disk. Get the FX400 240mm.

I have a R/T Charger I daily drive so that isn't too much of an issue, I do know that the 240mm upgrade can withstand good number so that is another great option. I would of went with a 240 to begin with (beating myself now for not biting the bullet) but I just really didn't want to spend $1100 at the time since I still have other things to buy and I thought the motor was going to be in the car by now. Since I have all the parts I need now I could sell the clutch I suppose and buy the CM400 240mm but like I said we will see. Parts change, minds change, and the numbers in the bank account change.

I don't mind changing the clutch next year at all I just don't want to commute in a RWD Charger to work that is 103 miles there and back in the snow. So as long as the clutch holds up till spring that's fine with me.