Got my motor mounts installed, and now my transmission mounts came. I saw some bits and pieces of how to get this done in various threads but no one stop shop for all the information. I will try to compile that info here.
Disclaimer: I nor Audizine are responsible for any damage you do to yourself or your car with this modification. Wear safety glasses and gloves and make sure your jack and jack stands are in good condition.
Take note of what comes with the 034 motorsports street density mounts. I ordered the street density ones because this is my daily driver and I want it to stay comfortable. These mounts install slightly differently compared to the stock ones, they mount with a long bolt and nut instead of the stock ones which are threaded inside and mount with just a short bolt. Below is a picture of the hardware.
Start by jacking up the car, I rested it on jack stands below the rear lower front control arms.
After that you will see the transmission mounts under the car, they look like this. Remove the 13mm bolts on the mounts (two on each) to untie them from the subframe. You can go ahead and remove the bolts from both sides at the same time then you are not twisting the engine/transmission as much on the next step. The transmission is still safe as it is resting on the subframe on the mounts.
Next you will want to bend the heat shield on top of the transmission mount up a bit to get to the top bolt. Use a 17mm wrench to start backing out the top bolt. You can back it up a few mm and then you will realize that you are hitting the top of the heat shield. To get further, get the jack under the side of the transmission that you are working on and put a piece of wood or a hockey puck in between to spread the load out. Jack up the transmission a half inch to an inch so that the mount drops and you have room to get the top bolt out all the way. Once this is out, you can wiggle the old transmission mount out of there.
Below is a pic of how you can access the top bolt on the passenger side and how I had the jack when I was working on the driver side mount.
Once the old mount is out, it will get a bit tricky. You will have to keep the transmission jacked up about an inch to give you maximum space and then put the long bolt and big washer through the top of the transmission mount hole. The trick I found is to hold the washer near the top of the nut as you wiggle the new mount into position and slide the bolt down through it. If you let the washer hang low, it will catch on the bolt threads and not let the bolt come down. This may take you a few minutes of playing around, don’t get frustrated. Bend the heat shield a bit more if you have to. Tighten the 13mm bolts to the transmission mount (I don’t have the torque settings right now but if anyone does then please share, I went by feel here, not too tight, because it is aluminum.)
Once you get the new mount in it will look something like this:
Now screw the smaller washer and lock nut onto the bottom. You will have to hold a wrench on top to keep it from spinning. I did not tighten the middle nuts right away. I lowered the car and started it for about 30 sec to ‘settle’ the mounts into a good place. I’m not sure if this actually has any effect but others have recommended doing it so I see no harm. Following that, jack up one side of the car and finish tightening the nuts. I have e-mailed 034motorsport for torque specs on this, but put it to 50 ft-lbs for now. Don’t forget to bend down the heatshield when you’re done!
Hopefully I took enough pictures for this to make sense, feel free to chip in if you have some good information! This is a very easy job compared to motor mounts and can be done in <2 hrs. My stock tranny mounts were super flimsy when they came out (much more so than my stock motor mounts). No noticeably increased vibration is present in the cabin after this mod, but I can hear a bit more drivetrain noise now (again, not enough to notice unless you are listening for it). Shifts firmed up a bit as well. Excellent extra-OEM type modification!
cheers
Marko
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