Compiled Drive Select VAG-COM codes

[OmaHahn]

So NPuter....I love u man! Do I get your Bud Light? OK, so I hope no one thinks I've lost my marbles, but I did this mod on my 2009 A4, 3.2 V6 Auto. Let me tell you, WOW! Not only throttle repsonse improves significantly but the rpm's rev higher, shifts are quicker, and the steering is definitely tight! I wish I could have timed the car before & after - it's much quicker!!!
Even in Automatic mode (now "S" mode!) it even downshifts when I apply the brake and the revs go up, kind of cool!!! The only (slightly) down side to all of this....I easily cruise in the city in 6th gear, even going like 45 mph! Now, the car never wants to leave S4 with around 3-4k rpm. Even on the interstate I was mostly in S5 and it took over 70, close to 80 for it to drop into S6! There goes my MPGs!!! Thanks a lot NPuter! HA! Kidding. I guess I could manually make the tranny go into 5 and 6. But is there something I'm missing? I chose (3, Dynamic) for Channels 63-66. Is this the "Sport," option. What does 1. Comfort and 2. Auto do?
Thanks again NPuter - I never saw this post before. When my wife & I come to Miami area for our next trip we'd like to buy you some drinks!

[OmaHahn]

UPDATE: I need the ADS switch! The "S" mode is great for racing and messing around but for daily driving - it's driving me nuts! Stays in lower gears, revs, jerky, etc. I went back into VCDS and just changed Byte 8, bit 0 to 1 again. The DIS shows "D" again and not the "S". The steering stayed nice & tight - I do like that all the time. I hope the other tweaks stayed too like Throttle response. Do we know for a fact this is done with any of those Bits?

[NPuter]

UPDATE: I need the ADS switch! The "S" mode is great for racing and messing around but for daily driving - it's driving me nuts! Stays in lower gears, revs, jerky, etc. I went back into VCDS and just changed Byte 8, bit 0 to 1 again. The DIS shows "D" again and not the "S". The steering stayed nice & tight - I do like that all the time. I hope the other tweaks stayed too like Throttle response. Do we know for a fact this is done with any of those Bits?

I am glad you are happy. All I did was compile the codes - I had very little to do with discovering them

I assume you used (in byte 8) bit 0 for engine/gearbox and bit 1 for steering.
So basically, you car will be in S all the time. You always had S mode available, you just had to select it on your gear selector. Cars with ADS do not have the S option on the gear selector. Try bit 2 for engine and see if that keeps the increased throttle response while leaving the transmission in D. I am using bit 2 for engine and bit 1 for steering.
I have not really care about the engine/throttle response as I am ok with the way it is not (although I do not remember how it was before ADS), what I really care about is the steering. The way I have it set up now, the steering is much firmer...
As for Channel 63-66: 1 = Comfort, 2 = Auto, 3 = Dynamic, 4 = Individual (only for MMI). And yes, dynamic is sport.

[asm777]

+1 on using bit 2 for engine rather than bit 0. I'm also using just bit 1 for steering and bit 2 for engine (both to enable and display in the MMI).

From what I understand:
- Bit 0 puts the car in "S" mode permanently (even if you have the shifter in "D" mode).
- Bit 2 improves throttle response with the shifter in both "S" mode and "D" mode when the Engine setting is set to "Dynamic".

[OmaHahn]

+1 on using bit 2 for engine rather than bit 0. I'm also using just bit 1 for steering and bit 2 for engine (both to enable and display in the MMI).

From what I understand:
- Bit 0 puts the car in "S" mode permanently (even if you have the shifter in "D" mode).
- Bit 2 improves throttle response with the shifter in both "S" mode and "D" mode when the Engine setting is set to "Dynamic".

You are correct - however, I'm not so sure about having a choice between the the Bits. If you want throttle response you must check both Bits! Let me elaborate:
I'm like a kid and can't make up my mind! I did all of these changes and loved them but not so sure about the high revs and Tranny not shifting into 5th or 6th gear in town - it takes going 70mph+ to get into 6th gear. In "D" my car would find 6th gear going 45mph. I must be old now because I liked that, also keeps MPG better. However after going back to "D" mode but keeping everything else the same including Bit 2 hoping the throttle repsonse would still be there....nope!
The car was so sluggish & slow feeling. So once again I went back in and changed Bit 0 to "S" again and what a change! The car seems so much more alive, quick, immediate response, etc. Maybe Bit 0 is more than than just the Tranny in "S" or "D."

If we read the OP again it says:
"Byte 8 Bit 0 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Engine/Gearbox (Improved throttle response and puts tranny into "S" mode when "D" is selected)" I think Bit 0 has to be checked ALONG with Bit 2 for everything to work together in unison. It's kind of like "all or nothing," I think.

"Byte 8 Bit 2 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Engine (Improved throttle response - Not completely sure if I can feel a significant change)" I think NPuter wrote he can't feel a change which is 100% correct - I couldn't either with just this Bit checked! But if I check BOTH Bit 0 and Bit 2 the car is a completely different animal.

Lastly, I have the 3.2 V6 so for me it's extrememly noticeable and very happy I found this post thanks to Nick!

[asm777]

I don't have bit 0 activated in either the 2011 S4 or 2010 Q5. Just having bit 2 enabled dramatically increases the responsiveness of the throttle in both "S" mode and "D" mode in both of our cars. The difference is dramatic enough that even my wife can notice it. =) Basically, in either mode, we get more power without having to press the accelerator as much and we can choose whether we want high revs in "S" or just normal behavior in "D".

It might have something to do with the different transmissions we have in our vehicles? The 2011 S4 has the 7-speed DSG while the Q5 has a 6-speed auto transmission. Not sure what your A4 3.2 has but I think the current A4 2.0T's have the 8-speed auto transmissions?

Anyway, seems like there won't be a definitive "this is what works on all cars" but rather, David's site might need to read "try each bit and see what works for your specific car". =)

You are correct - however, I'm not so sure about having a choice between the the Bits. If you want throttle response you must check both Bits! Let me elaborate:
I'm like a kid and can't make up my mind! I did all of these changes and loved them but not so sure about the high revs and Tranny not shifting into 5th or 6th gear in town - it takes going 70mph+ to get into 6th gear. In "D" my car would find 6th gear going 45mph. I must be old now because I liked that, also keeps MPG better. However after going back to "D" mode but keeping everything else the same including Bit 2 hoping the throttle repsonse would still be there....nope!
The car was so sluggish & slow feeling. So once again I went back in and changed Bit 0 to "S" again and what a change! The car seems so much more alive, quick, immediate response, etc. Maybe Bit 0 is more than than just the Tranny in "S" or "D."

If we read the OP again it says:
"Byte 8 Bit 0 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Engine/Gearbox (Improved throttle response and puts tranny into "S" mode when "D" is selected)" I think Bit 0 has to be checked ALONG with Bit 2 for everything to work together in unison. It's kind of like "all or nothing," I think.

"Byte 8 Bit 2 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Engine (Improved throttle response - Not completely sure if I can feel a significant change)" I think NPuter wrote he can't feel a change which is 100% correct - I couldn't either with just this Bit checked! But if I check BOTH Bit 0 and Bit 2 the car is a completely different animal.

Lastly, I have the 3.2 V6 so for me it's extrememly noticeable and very happy I found this post thanks to Nick!

[DavidB8]

There is a reason why I didn't release the DIY for over a year now and why I haven't posted it live to the ROW..

[asm777]

There is a reason why I didn't release the DIY for over a year now and why I haven't posted it live to the ROW..

But people are finding the link and believe it to be the definitive source. =)

BTW, did you get my PM?

[scottyuk]

In other words, You said: "I have collected all technical information I needed from forum members and now is the time to make money from it".

Idiot!

[NPuter]

I don't have bit 0 activated in either the 2011 S4 or 2010 Q5. Just having bit 2 enabled dramatically increases the responsiveness of the throttle in both "S" mode and "D" mode in both of our cars. The difference is dramatic enough that even my wife can notice it. =) Basically, in either mode, we get more power without having to press the accelerator as much and we can choose whether we want high revs in "S" or just normal behavior in "D".

It might have something to do with the different transmissions we have in our vehicles? The 2011 S4 has the 7-speed DSG while the Q5 has a 6-speed auto transmission. Not sure what your A4 3.2 has but I think the current A4 2.0T's have the 8-speed auto transmissions?

Anyway, seems like there won't be a definitive "this is what works on all cars" but rather, David's site might need to read "try each bit and see what works for your specific car". =)

Now that I am thinking about it, I think bit 2 did make a difference. Maybe not in D, but in M. At some times, it feels like I am WOT when I am about 1/4 pedal...
This will be much easier to test when I get the buttons...

[fred340]

This is by far the best mod I did to my car, beside my apr flash...
The throttle response was so boring on my car, finaly the throttle feels right! I have the non-mmi model so I do get a carisma swithc fault.
Thank you NPuter and DavidB8 for your posts.

[NPuter]

This is by far the best mod I did to my car, beside my apr flash...
The throttle response was so boring on my car, finaly the throttle feels right! I have the non-mmi model so I do get a carisma swithc fault.
Thank you NPuter and DavidB8 for your posts.

Any car (MMI or non-MMI) will get the charisma switch fault if it is not installed.

I can't wait to install my switch

[c99]

Idiot!

Thank You for Your opinion.

[MikkelS]

Any car (MMI or non-MMI) will get the charisma switch fault if it is not installed.

I can't wait to install my switch

Keep us posted when you get it installed - im planning on a similar install in mine ;)

[hender]

Thank You for Your opinion.

I just saw you wrote a couple months back re: davidb8 "making money" off this...have you visited it? Are there any advertisements on there? If there were, the relatively-petty traffic from AZ isn't going to draw him much revenue.
Also, if you DID read around once in awhile you'd realize pretty much everyone just says "ask david" when it comes to something technical beyond their means. This would get pretty tiresome, answering a bunch of troubleshooting PMs then get knobs like you insulting him afterwards.
Anyways, good luck getting any help around here, now. I would make a new account, retire c99.

[neptunesfinest]

+1 on using bit 2 for engine rather than bit 0. I'm also using just bit 1 for steering and bit 2 for engine (both to enable and display in the MMI).

From what I understand:
- Bit 0 puts the car in "S" mode permanently (even if you have the shifter in "D" mode).
- Bit 2 improves throttle response with the shifter in both "S" mode and "D" mode when the Engine setting is set to "Dynamic".

This is the case for my car as well. I kept bit 0 off...pretty much pointless to keep it in S all the time. I think the change from bit 2 is subtle but definitely improves the car. It seems to really cut out the lag in "D" which, according to what I have read elsewhere, is only programmed in to improve fuel economy. Seriously, with the steering and throttle bits set the car drives so much better than stock.

[equ]

Did bits 0, 1 and 2 on my '10 6-speed. Not sure if throttle response changed, hard to tell but there was no harm either from bits 0 and 2.

But bit 1... WOW... Thank you, the steering of the car is so much better now. This was my primary complaint.

[c99]

Wow... For being a member since 2009, you really have no clue, do you?? How about YOU? This forum has yet to see you contribute with anything near the quality and content of David. Take a look in the mirror before you start to make silly, inappropriate comments.

Are You sure? I am the guy who has found ADS activation possibility for cars without it, which I started on a5oc.com forum in 2008/2009 !!!, and activation of memory seats for cars with just electrical seats (A5 Coupe only). If it's not useable, I am sorry...
But what about You ???

BTW there are 2 mistakes (in Bit 7 and Bit 8) in NPuter ADS coding, specially for Stronic cars, but been called as Idiot, I am not sure, I want to contribute my findings here yet.

Maybe I am starting understand DavidB8 statement not to publish all findings here... Sorry DavidB8.

[NPuter]

Are You sure? I am the guy who has found ADS activation possibility for cars without it, which I started on a5oc.com forum in 2008/2009 !!!, and activation of memory seats for cars with just electrical seats (A5 Coupe only). If it's not useable, I am sorry...
But what about You ???

BTW there are 2 mistakes (in Bit 7 and Bit 8) in NPuter ADS coding, specially for Stronic cars, but been called as Idiot, I am not sure, I want to contribute my findings here yet.

Maybe I am starting understand DavidB8 statement not to publish all findings here... Sorry DavidB8.

Ok - lets stop fighting, insulting people, etc.

I am curious as to what the error is. The coding I posted works well for me. Steering is a night and day difference.

I would love it if you could share what you know so I can update the original post in order to benefit the whole community. If not, I understand....

[TexasEric]

Are You sure? I am the guy who has found ADS activation possibility for cars without it, which I started on a5oc.com forum in 2008/2009 !!!, and activation of memory seats for cars with just electrical seats (A5 Coupe only). If it's not useable, I am sorry...
But what about You ???

BTW there are 2 mistakes (in Bit 7 and Bit 8) in NPuter ADS coding, specially for Stronic cars, but been called as Idiot, I am not sure, I want to contribute my findings here yet.

Personally, I am very glad you (and others) contribute. I can say that I have gained a lot. My point was simply that your slam was uncalled for. For someone who clearly contributes and has something of value to say, I am surprised at your comments. But, that is your choice.

As for the coding errors, I think we would all like to learn. If you choose not to post them here or anywhere, that would be unfortunate, but understandable.

[Greg4os]

Just when this one was getting interesting, the thread went dead? Has anyone established what the errors that c99 picked out on Stronic cars before the thread went south are?

I have done the coding (along with the necessary Cent Elect and Adaptation Channels):
Byte 7, bit 5. 0 > 1
Byte 8, bit1 0 > 1
Byte 8, bit 2 0 > 1
Byte 17, bit 7, 0 > 1

While the steering is noticeably stiffer under Dynamic, there is absolutely no difference to Engine / Gearbox when set to Dyamic. No sharper throttle response, nothing.

2012 Q5 Stronic 2.0T with MMI 3G, Any ideas, much appreciated!

[Greg Nelson]

Thanks to Greg4os for searching for and reviving this thread
Forgot all about this mod, now I want to do!

Huge props to asm777 and NPuter for original posting/info/coding

As I have '09 3.2 Tip w/ESP non-NAV MMI Symphonic, I believe I need the following parts/hardware:
8K0 959 673 E V10 - ADS Switch on Center Console below shifter/ESP switch
8K0 864 261 B V10 - Center Console Insert w/Ride Control w/o Keyless Entry (surrounds shifter/ashtray/coin holder)
1C0 973 009 E - 3-pin plug for ADS Switch
000 979 009 E - wires 2x

Interestingly, searching by P/N's today at genuineaudiparts.com, ADS Switch and Insert only show in A5, not A4

Are these the correct P/N's for hardware?

I know the VCDS mod is doable as OmhaHan has done it on his '09 3.2 Tip ride in this thread.

Cheers

[Greg Nelson]

Installing the switch is fairly straightforward. You need to order the switch and the accompanying trim piece that goes around the shifter. Replace that (it doesn't involve the removal of the center console) and tap the wires at the air unit (Voltage, LIN BUS, and Ground).

Anyone have install pics/DIY for this wiring?
I have DavidB8's unreleased/incomplete DIY for ADS - appears to only address the wiring with MMI installed (switches on vertical portion of Center Console), not installing/ wiring ADS switches below Tip shifter.
Specifically, where is the "air unit" that I'd tap into?
I have the P/N's for ADS Switch and trim gear surround.
Thanks

[TexasEric]

Anyone have install pics/DIY for this wiring?
I have DavidB8's unreleased/incomplete DIY for ADS - appears to only address the wiring with MMI installed (switches on vertical portion of Center Console), not installing/ wiring ADS switches below Tip shifter.
Specifically, where is the "air unit" that I'd tap into?
I have the P/N's for ADS Switch and trim gear surround.
Thanks

I am in the same boat. I was going to leverage some comments in this threat: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...efault-setting. Specifically, posts number 86 and 136--read carefully starting at 136-onward. I have not sat down and thoroughly read through it yet, even thought I have the parts.

[neptunesfinest]

Anyone have install pics/DIY for this wiring?
I have DavidB8's unreleased/incomplete DIY for ADS - appears to only address the wiring with MMI installed (switches on vertical portion of Center Console), not installing/ wiring ADS switches below Tip shifter.
Specifically, where is the "air unit" that I'd tap into?
I have the P/N's for ADS Switch and trim gear surround.
Thanks

Sorry no pics but the switch is easy to install for the non-nav. No need to remove the radio or anything, just that shifter panel. Find a ground point for the ground wire. For the other 2, just run the wires through and over the drivers side panel that covers your knees. You'll need to remove that panel and run the power wire to a new fuse as well as the lin-bus wire. Its up to you where you put the fuse. I chose the drivers side because I was already running the lin-bus wire over there. David shows the correct location as well as the correct routing method in his DIY. It's actually on the passenger side and quite a bit more involved than the location I chose (above the homelink fuse). For the lin-bus wire, you will need to splice into the wire that currently occupies the target pin location. What you can do is remove the wire that's already there and make an adapter harness to connect the new wire. That way there's no cutting involved and you can always remove it.

[TexasEric]

Progress...

I finished the install, but I have yet to do the coding. Here are some pictures and comments/thoughts for those of you with MMI Low.

Helpful tools/Parts:

• 6 foot Network Cable - Cut of the ends, take three strands and you have the perfect wire. Do not separate the intertwinded-ness of two wires.
• Friction Tape
• Torx T25
• 8mm ratchet bit

Passenger side comments
- Make a harness with the connector and three wires. I sent one wire to the driver's side and two to the passenger side. If you have ever worked with a computer network cable, you know that pairs of wires inside are twisted together. I did NOT undo the twisting for the two wires going to the passenger side.
- Running the wires to the passenger-side fuse box is not hard and does not require you to remove any major parts. Follow my wire-path in the following two pictures. First send the wire down the side of the center console. Then slide it into the crack in the paneling above the passenger's legs. use your fingers to move the wires out of the way of the A/C vent holes. This took about five minutes to complete.




- Once the wire is all the way to the end, you can easily feed it up to the fuse box. Pop open the fuse panel and just thread it through. Once it is there, untwist the pair of wires and attach one to the body for ground. The other can then be properly attached to the fuse box (but this requires you to remove panels). I chose to tap the CD fuse. Make sure you tap on the left side, not the right. Both will work, but using the left side will allow the fuse to be inline and provide some protection. MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE PROPER WIRES ON 5V and GROUND. MIXING THEM UP WOULD BE BAD.



Driver side comments.
- You will need to remove the panel above the driver's legs. You will need an 8mm bit to remove the 3 bolts.
- Run the wire similar to that done for the passenger side. In my picture, you will see two white wires. One is the new ADS wire, the other is the wire I added for Hill-Hold. Run the ADS wire up and over. I found an empty hole in my car that was a natural place to run the wire through. Be careful that your wire does not get in the way of any pedals. Double check this when you are done.




- There is a black plastic fuse frame/box in the way. Remove the black screw shown in the middle of the picture. It requires a T25 torx bit, but it is only hand-tight. Press a plastic lever on the left and the frame is free to swivel down. Note that the right side is attached in the form of a plastic hinge. Remove the frame and it will be easier to get to the tan connector we need to tap.



- There are two tan connectors behind the box. We need the one in the left that looks like it has a hood and a release tab on the hood's right side.
- Attaching the wire is actually, not too bad. First you unplug the tan connector. Once you have the connector in hand, you will realize it is a black plug (that looks like a small floppy-drive connector from inside a PC) covered with a tan shroud. Remove the shroud. Once there, we need to add the wire. I simply stripped 1cm off my wire and slid it into the tiny hole that the lavender wire (pin 4) is in. Then I used friction tape to tape my new wire to the existing wire bunch and keep it in place. I did not do any splicing. My wire is not perfectly secure, but since it is completely out of the way and taped into place, I am not too worried about it coming lose. Sadly, I did not think to take pictures until after I put this all back together.

At this point, I have the switch and wires all in place. I notice that the switch does not look like it has power or looks functional in any way. I am pretty sure that it will show life once I do the VAG-COM work. I will let you know.

Hope this helps someone....

******************* EDIT *******************

I made the VAG-COM changes and it seems to work. It lights up and I can definitely tell the engine responsiveness changes, not so sure on the steering stiffness. I will keep playing. I did the following:

Module	Byte	Bit	Old Code	New Code
9	7	5	0	1
9	19	6	0	1
9	8	1	0	1
9	8	2	0	1
9	8	4	0	1

I did not do any adaptation changes because I like the auto to be "stock".

[Brad Kane]

Just wanted to drop a huge thanks to NPuter, DavidB8 and all others who helped with this mod and other Vag-Com mods. I had a fun afternoon changing my car around. The dynamic steering mod/ADS is an amazing improvement on my car. That was the one complaint I still had after sways, alu kreuz, etc and it is much improved after today.

Thanks a bunch for all the work guys!

[Slee_Stack]

Any pic of the installed switch? What specific parts did you have to end up buying? Just the ADS switch (8K0 959 673 E V10)?


Thanks for the write up!

[keeva381]

May be a dumb question, but is this only for automatic transmissions?

[NPuter]

May be a dumb question, but is this only for automatic transmissions?

No

[keeva381]

I just posted a link on how to do all this coding and get the buttons started.

David - did miss this in the thread or on your site? I checked in the Vag-Com section but didn't see it. Did you take it down?

[EuroEclipse]

So I just did mine last night. I updated my software to 11.11.2 and realized that there is a compiled section in VCDS that already allows you to select Drive Select by just pushing 1 button after entering the security access code. My gas pedal feels stiffer and the steering wheel feels like I have no power steering after 25mph. The engine feels snappier also.

[cory_can]

For those of you that did the ADS button retrofit is the selected program lit up significantly brighter than the rest of the lights?

EDIT: Nevermind....a user let me know that there is actually coding for the brightness so I went back through this thread and found this nugget from 'NPuter':

Oh, I just want to add that Byte 19 Bit 6 enables the correct lighting on the ADS switch...

[keeva381]

This is my first time really attempting VAGCOM on my own. Just wanted to verify I'm on the right track before I screw something up (my screen seems a little different than what people have posted - I'm running Windows XP):

1) Hidden menu procedures = done
2) I'm trying to take care of step 2:

09-Central electric:
[Long Coding] Byte 7, bit 2, change 0 to 1
[Long Coding] Byte 7, bit 5, change 0 to 1

In the "09-Central electric" I went to "Coding-07" and then to "Long Coding Helper" and then to "LCode2" to get to something that looks like it's got all the the bits. See screen below, is that last screen on the bottom right of my screenshot where I do the coding?

[keeva381]

I got through my initial issue above, but I have a few quick questions. I have a 2011 B8 s-line 6MT. Do all of these apply below? To be honest I'm not really noticing a difference in steering or the others (I've also got the adaptions all working correctly).

1) I changed all the Bits in Byte 8 to "1" - is my problem, for steering, that I should just test Bit 1 vs Bit 4 and only change the one that works? I really don't notice a difference.

2) I don't even have an Byte 8 Bit 5, is that because I have 6MT?

Thanks!!!!

MMI Menu Items:
Byte 8 Bit 0 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Engine/Gearbox (use if bit 2 doesn't work)
Byte 8 Bit 1 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Dynamic Steering (use if bit 4 doesn't work)
Byte 8 Bit 2 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Engine
Byte 8 Bit 3 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Suspension
Byte 8 Bit 4 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Steering
Byte 8 Bit 5 Change 0 to 1 - Enable Sports Differential

[Greg4os]

To summarise here (hope it helps), on my Q5 with MMI 3G with no Drive Select factory option, the following coding gets the Audi Drive Select Menu up on the Car menu option and appears to do the trick. Set to dynamic, steering is tighter and Engine/gearbox is more aggressive, probably much the same as placing the S Tronic gear selector in S mode:

< AUDI DRIVE SELECT >
STEP 1
Access Hidden Menu
Select "car"
Select "cardevicelist"
Check Charisma
Press Return to go one menu back
Select "carmenuoperation"
Change Charisma from 0 to 5
Reset MMI

STEP2
[09 Cent. Elect.]
[Coding 07]
Longcoding Helper
Byte 7, bit 5 - change 0 to 1. * (tells car ADS is installed, Charisma fault generated)
Byte 8, bit 0 - change 0 to 1. *(changes gearbox to S mode)
Byte 8, bit 1 - change 0 to 1. * * (enables dynamic steering)
Byte 8, bit 2 - change 0 to 1. * (enables engine/gearbox) in menu
Byte 8, bit 4 - change 0 to 1. * (enables steering in menu) possibly not required?
Byte 17, bit 7- change 0 to 1. * *(enable MMI display)

[Security Access 16]
[Adaptation 10]
Channel 63 change value from 2 to 4. * *( changes from auto factory default to individual)
Channel 64 change value from 2 to 4
Channel 65 change value from 2 to 4
Channel 66 change value from 2 to 4

Enter Security code on the VCDS software pop up into the relevant box

Note that it is pointless to enable Sport Differential or active suspension unless you have those retro fitted. Focus on steering and engine/ gearbox only.

[Maxyim]

Hey guys, I have a 2011 S-Line Prestige A4, will I get any benefit from Drive Select > Dynamic?

[Alister]

Some great info in this thread - thanks for all the contributions.

I enabled ADS in a 2008 S5 with MMI 2G using VCDS some time ago, and all has worked well with that.

I've recently retrofit the ADS switch however and have not been able to get the switch to work (won't light up and is inoperable).

Can someone please confirm the pinouts for the ADS switch - are they as follows:

1: Power
2: LIN Bus (tapped into the purple wire from the back of the Climate Control unit)
3: Ground

If the above pinouts are correct, can someone please confirm that the LIN Bus wire can be accessed from the back of the climate control unit and either confirm the pin number and/or if it is the solid purple wire.

Thanks in advance!

[NPuter]

TexasEric, disable byte 8 bit 4. Your currently have both steering settings active, this could be causing your problem.
I definitely notice a difference with byte 8 bit 1...

[cory_can]

Some great info in this thread - thanks for all the contributions.

I enabled ADS in a 2008 S5 with MMI 2G using VCDS some time ago, and all has worked well with that.

I've recently retrofit the ADS switch however and have not been able to get the switch to work (won't light up and is inoperable).

Can someone please confirm the pinouts for the ADS switch - are they as follows:

1: Power
2: LIN Bus (tapped into the purple wire from the back of the Climate Control unit)
3: Ground

If the above pinouts are correct, can someone please confirm that the LIN Bus wire can be accessed from the back of the climate control unit and either confirm the pin number and/or if it is the solid purple wire.

Thanks in advance!

I've recently done the button retrofit and it works great. The pin-outs you have are accurate. However, I can't say if the "purple wire from the back of the climate control" will work. The one I tapped into is pin#4 on the Brown connector on Module J519 that's on the Central Control Unit on the drivers side (LHD).....as described by DavidB8's DIY. See here... http://www.audienthusiasts.com/Project_ADS3.html

Also, you'll need to change this coding for the button lighting to work properly:
Module 9, Byte 19 Bit 6