DIY: Audi B7 RS4 Spark Plug Change

[BenSti]

While there is already a DIY for the sparkplug change on our cars, I figured that a more detailed one couldn't hurt. This made a big difference
Time: 30minutes-1hour
Cost: ~$120 for the spark plugs
Tools:

• 3/8" Ratchet
• 3/8" Torque Wrench
• 6" Long 3/8" Extension
• 5/8" Spark Plug Socket
• 1/4" Ratchet
• 2" Long 1/4" Extension
• T-20 1/4" Drive Bit
• Medium Philips Screwdriver
• Medium Flat Screwdriver

First, you will need the spark plugs. I had my friend order these from Worldpac for cheaper than at the dealer and I got them 2 hours later.

1. Let the engine cool with the hood open for an hour or so. If it feels warm on the top of the motor anywhere, the sparkplugs will still be blistering hot. (Learned this the hard way)...

2. Remove the air intake duct. Remove the two Philips screws in the front of the engine bay. Pull up on the rear part of the duct and then pull the whole assembly towards the back of the engine bay. Remove it and set it aside for later.


3. Remove the top of the airbox. To do this you need to loosen the hose clamp on the tube going to the engine. Disconnect the MAF connector by pushing down on the clip and then pulling to disconnect. Lift up the rubber tube that is snapped into the cover, and then finally remove the tube that connects to the front of the airbox by squeezing the connector together and pulling out. Remove the airbox cover from the car and set it aside. Now is a perfect time to either replace your air filter element or clean it if you have a K&N one.

4. Remove the two small T-20 Torx screws holding the harness to the valve cover.

5. Push down on the clips on each coilpack until the pop and then disconnect them. Once they are all loose, you can move the harness out of the way of the coilpacks. If you have trouble disconnecting them, you can push the connector towards the coilpack and then squeeze the tap to release it while pulling away. It can be tricky to get them off, just use patience and you will eventually get them all undone.
6. Remove the 4 coilpacks by pulling up on them evenly. Careful, they are fragile.

Now for the driver's side
7. Lift on the plastic engine cover starting at the front corner and then working back. There are 3 clip locations. Remove from the car and set aside. Remove the dipstick and set it aside.


8. Remove the Philips screw holding the coolant tank. Lift up the front of the tank and disconnect it from the back by pulling forward. Be careful not to stress any of the hoses.

9. Remove the two small T-20 Torx screws holding the harness to the valve cover.

10. Using the same method as before, disconnect all of the coil packs. Once they are disconnected, pull them directly out and set them aside. The one under the coolant tank is a little tricky. You can carefully pull the coolant tank a little to provide room.


11: Go around to each plug with the Socket, Extension, and ratchet (you could use a breaker bar for this as well). Break each one free then unscrew it using the socket and extension only. Once each plug is removed, set it aside and then move to the next one. Careful, they are very hot.

12. Take each new plug and check the threads to make sure nothing is damaged. Stick it in the new plug into the extension and socket and thread each one in BY HAND. Do not use a ratchet for this. If you feel any resistance, stop and try again. They should go in a couple turns before stopping. Leave them finger tight. Do all 8.

13. Set the torque wrench to 22lb/ft. Go around to each plug and torque it to 22lb/ft. It will turn about one full turn before becoming tight, this is normal. Make sure to do all 8.
14. Insert the coilpacks back in each hole and press them down until they are fully seated. Do this for all 8. Plug in the harness to each one and squeeze the plugs until they are fully seated.


15. Reinstall the 2 T-20 Torx on each side. You only want them slightly snug. Don't strip them out.
16. Reinstall the coolant tank by cliping in the back two clips then fastening the Philips screw.


17. Reinstall the plastic driver's side engine cover by clipping in the 3 clips. Replace the oil dipstick.
18. Reinstall the air filter and airbox. Can be tricky, take your time and it will go in just fine. Make sure to plug in the MAF sensor and replace the hoses in their clips.


19. Reinstall the air intake guide and refasten the two Philips screws.
20. Clean up everything and start the car. If it was anything like mine, it will idle much smoother.

[RS4POWER]

Well done!

The way a diy should be drafted.

[Trogdor1464]

Nice write up. My plugs came in today as well. Got the same ones. Plan on changing them tomorrow along with apikol snub and smoked reflectors. Correct me if Im wrong but these plugs come gapped already correct?

[BenSti]

Yes, from what I was told they do not need to have the gap set.

[Tech/Sales@JHM]

Another great DIY for B7-RS4 owners. For all of you who don't have friends at parts warehouses, we keep these plugs on the shelf for you: B7 RS4 spark plugs.

In addition to these, we have a growing catalog of parts for the 4.2 FSI motor. Everything from spark plugs to oil change kits to injectors. If you don't see it on our site, we can probably get it! Send us an email ([email protected]) or give us a call with your parts list!

- Keaton

[Trogdor1464]

Yes, from what I was told they do not need to have the gap set.

Cool thats what I thought.....thanks!

[scmguru]

Nice write up.. how many miles did you have on the plugs before the change?

[BenSti]

49000 miles on the old plugs.

[Mr Hyde]

Nice writeup. Thanx

[NY07RS4]

Nice right up. My plugs came in today as well. Got the same ones. Plan on changing them tomorrow along with apikol snub and smoked reflectors. Correct me if Im wrong but these plugs come gapped already correct?

No snub for the RS4's.

[Krys-RS4]

You guys think I can do it? :)

[BenSti]

Just make sure to put the air filter back in the right place and you should be fine. The hardest part is actually removing the airbox to get to the plugs. Just take your time and make sure everything goes in easy. If you have any trouble, don't force it. This is one of those things where you can really mess stuff up if you cross thread the plugs (but that is difficult to do)

[Trogdor1464]

No snub for the RS4's.

FOCK!!! I didn't even realize that. It said B7 chassis on JHM's webiste so I just assumed it had one. Didn't even bother looking at the car. Now I gotta send it back and I guess get the tranny mount. Meh, oh well. I wonder why Audi left the snub off this motor.

[BenSti]

FOCK!!! I didn't even realize that. It said B7 chassis on JHM's webiste so I just assumed it had one. Didn't even bother looking at the car. Now I gotta send it back and I guess get the tranny mount. Meh, oh well. I wonder why Audi left the snub off this motor.

I had been wondering the same thing. Do the 034 Street Density mount and a Apikol Rear Diff mount and you should be good! I am going to do a DIY on the diff mount because I need to go put loctite on the bolts.

[Trogdor1464]

I had been wondering the same thing. Do the 034 Street Density mount and a Apikol Rear Diff mount and you should be good! I am going to do a DIY on the diff mount because I need to go put loctite on the bolts.

Yeah those are next on my to-do list now that the snub has to go back. I'll keep an eye out for your DIY. I'll pick up some loctite too, lol.

[maxbhp]

Ben, you've been an awesome asset in the short time you've been here with us. Keep up the great work.

[i_eat_staples]

awesome, love the step-by-step and pics u include in it, makes it a lot easier and less intimidating for peeps like me who arent, shall we say, mechanically inclined

[dtrizzo]

Thank you for all the hard work! This is a great write-up.

[BenSti]

Thanks guys, let me know what you want to see. I am planning on doing a writeup for everything I do on the car. I am planing on doing the JHM short shifter and swaybars soon.

[PolishPete]

Thanks for the DIY.

[i_eat_staples]

Thanks guys, let me know what you want to see. I am planning on doing a writeup for everything I do on the car. I am planing on doing the JHM short shifter and swaybars soon.

thatd be great, i think it would be an outstanding asset to the rs4 community considering how small we are. There seems to be a bit of a gap between DIYer's and guys like me who really benefit from walkthroughs, as there seems to be a general lack of them for the b7rs4

my vote would go towards rotors/pads, coilovers, clear corners (theres one out there but i lost the link), exhaust

[BenSti]

Well, I have a set of Porsche Carbon Ceramics for sale, if they sell I will be doing Ohlins Motorsport coilovers, swaybars, endlinks, motor mounts, and some other stuff. I can do a DIY on the exhaust next weekend or sometime when I have a chance. I haven't gotten the stock exhaust yet so it would be the install only.

[rs4 tony]

FOCK!!! I didn't even realize that. It said B7 chassis on JHM's webiste so I just assumed it had one. Didn't even bother looking at the car. Now I gotta send it back and I guess get the tranny mount. Meh, oh well. I wonder why Audi left the snub off this motor.

thats exactly what i did...jhm wouldnt give me a full refund so i sold it to a s4 owner for the same price 4 months later..... its only 30 bucks... better 30 then 150 lol

[rs4 tony]

You guys think I can do it? :)

yea you can do it.

[NY07RS4]

thatd be great, i think it would be an outstanding asset to the rs4 community considering how small we are. There seems to be a bit of a gap between DIYer's and guys like me who really benefit from walkthroughs, as there seems to be a general lack of them for the b7rs4

my vote would go towards rotors/pads, coilovers, clear corners (theres one out there but i lost the link), exhaust

I have done a DIY for the rotor/pads on that 'other' site. I'll try and post it over here too.

[SoCalS4Avant]

Great work, Ben. This and your other DIY's have been copied over to the B6/B7 S4/RS4 DIY/Tech forum.

[chrskwn]

do i follow the same diy for a 3.2 fsi?

[chrskwn]

fuck i hate it when the pics dont show up anymore

[MattboyR32]

Ben, do you reckon you could re-upload the pics please?

[rs4StigA]

Neeeeeeeeed pictures !

[WileyBrill]

While there is already a DIY for the sparkplug change on our cars, I figured that a more detailed one couldn't hurt. This made a big difference
Time: 30minutes-1hour
Cost: ~$120 for the spark plugs
Tools:

• 3/8" Ratchet
• 3/8" Torque Wrench
• 6" Long 3/8" Extension
• 5/8" Spark Plug Socket
• 1/4" Ratchet
• 2" Long 1/4" Extension
• T-20 1/4" Drive Bit
• Medium Philips Screwdriver
• Medium Flat Screwdriver

First, you will need the spark plugs. I had my friend order these from Worldpac for cheaper than at the dealer and I got them 2 hours later.

1. Let the engine cool with the hood open for an hour or so. If it feels warm on the top of the motor anywhere, the sparkplugs will still be blistering hot. (Learned this the hard way)...

2. Remove the air intake duct. Remove the two Philips screws in the front of the engine bay. Pull up on the rear part of the duct and then pull the whole assembly towards the back of the engine bay. Remove it and set it aside for later.


3. Remove the top of the airbox. To do this you need to loosen the hose clamp on the tube going to the engine. Disconnect the MAF connector by pushing down on the clip and then pulling to disconnect. Lift up the rubber tube that is snapped into the cover, and then finally remove the tube that connects to the front of the airbox by squeezing the connector together and pulling out. Remove the airbox cover from the car and set it aside. Now is a perfect time to either replace your air filter element or clean it if you have a K&N one.

4. Remove the two small T-20 Torx screws holding the harness to the valve cover.

5. Push down on the clips on each coilpack until the pop and then disconnect them. Once they are all loose, you can move the harness out of the way of the coilpacks. If you have trouble disconnecting them, you can push the connector towards the coilpack and then squeeze the tap to release it while pulling away. It can be tricky to get them off, just use patience and you will eventually get them all undone.
6. Remove the 4 coilpacks by pulling up on them evenly. Careful, they are fragile.

Now for the driver's side
7. Lift on the plastic engine cover starting at the front corner and then working back. There are 3 clip locations. Remove from the car and set aside. Remove the dipstick and set it aside.


8. Remove the Philips screw holding the coolant tank. Lift up the front of the tank and disconnect it from the back by pulling forward. Be careful not to stress any of the hoses.

9. Remove the two small T-20 Torx screws holding the harness to the valve cover.

10. Using the same method as before, disconnect all of the coil packs. Once they are disconnected, pull them directly out and set them aside. The one under the coolant tank is a little tricky. You can carefully pull the coolant tank a little to provide room.


11: Go around to each plug with the Socket, Extension, and ratchet (you could use a breaker bar for this as well). Break each one free then unscrew it using the socket and extension only. Once each plug is removed, set it aside and then move to the next one. Careful, they are very hot.

12. Take each new plug and check the threads to make sure nothing is damaged. Stick it in the new plug into the extension and socket and thread each one in BY HAND. Do not use a ratchet for this. If you feel any resistance, stop and try again. They should go in a couple turns before stopping. Leave them finger tight. Do all 8.

13. Set the torque wrench to 22lb/ft. Go around to each plug and torque it to 22lb/ft. It will turn about one full turn before becoming tight, this is normal. Make sure to do all 8.
14. Insert the coilpacks back in each hole and press them down until they are fully seated. Do this for all 8. Plug in the harness to each one and squeeze the plugs until they are fully seated.


15. Reinstall the 2 T-20 Torx on each side. You only want them slightly snug. Don't strip them out.
16. Reinstall the coolant tank by cliping in the back two clips then fastening the Philips screw.


17. Reinstall the plastic driver's side engine cover by clipping in the 3 clips. Replace the oil dipstick.
18. Reinstall the air filter and airbox. Can be tricky, take your time and it will go in just fine. Make sure to plug in the MAF sensor and replace the hoses in their clips.


19. Reinstall the air intake guide and refasten the two Philips screws.
20. Clean up everything and start the car. If it was anything like mine, it will idle much smoother.

Nice write up.

? Please - I'm about to do a sparkplug replacement with new, NGK, (noted name change), all-pure Platinum, correct by NG tech in MI - plugs.
I did not see in your write up - Genuine VW/Audi "hot bolt paste", very light, application to the treads of the new, "plated" plug threads - aka "anti-seeze", for threading into the aluminum engine head?
Did you do this? Yes/No - why?

Thank you

WB

[WileyBrill]

Straight from the real deal Mark Kent of NGK/Niterra in MI - "Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs." "NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating."
The use of anti-seize or lubricant on the NGK spark plugs is "completely unnecessary and can be detrimental."

WB