The Official FSI / TFSI “Before you get flashed…” Checklist
Basics: Applies to all vehicles Stock or Modded.
- Free of DTC’s [Check Engine Light, CEL] sometimes you may also have whats called soft codes, which will be stored in their appropriate controller but may not trigger the actual “Check Engine Light”
- Age/ Mileage check [ MAF Sensor, Primary Oxygen “O2” Sensor B1S1, Spark Plugs, Coil Packs, Oil Change date*]
When getting flashed your sensors need to be in good working order, sensors that are not function or are on their way out, will not give the correct data and hinder overall performance and drivability.
- MAF & O2 – under 30K miles you’re usually good. 50-100k miles you may need to replace the sensor.
- Spark Plugs & Coils – Copper 5-15k miles / Platinum 10-25k miles / Iridium 15-35k miles – Coil Packs generally have a strong spark life from up to 25/50k.
- Oil Change - [*Other various maintenance] Since you will most likely want to enjoy your flash and drive like you stole it from the minute its ready to go… some fresh Synthetic Oil & filter (unless recently done, under 2k)
*Make sure your vehicle is also up to date on its pre-scheduled maintenance in accordance to Age/ Mileage. The information on this can be found in your owner’s manual or online.
Common items to check that also have been known to effect performance and drivability
- Diverter Valve [DV] (excluding TSI's) The original run of OEM DV’s from the factory saw consistent DV Diaphragm issues even when stock. The new OEM Revision “D” Valve features an upgraded piston.
Related to boosting and boost loss issues.
- Positive Crankcase Ventilation [PCV] (excluding TSI's) Another source to boos issues. The current Revision is the “G” Version.
- HPFP / Cam Follower [High Pressure Fuel Pump – Cam Lobe Wear] (excluding TSI's) Causes fuel cut issue, Limp mode, usually accompanied with fault codes.
- Spark Plug Gaps should be .028” and single prong. When gaping the plugs you should always use a spark plug feeler gauge with adjustment tool [looks like a Hammerhead with notches]. This can be found at all auto parts stores from
5-9 dollars.
- Vacuum/ Boost Leak or Leak’s [Perform a Pressure Test] a common cause for boost issues, poor mileage and performance, and inconsistent idle.
- MAF [Cleaning] CRC MAF Cleaner only, other can cause damage and or leave a residue!
Some MAF sensors have been damaged during cleaning, most likely due to human error or the sensor lived its life.
- Keep your Pipes Clean… [Oil Vapor/ Catch can] The oem Design of the PCV allows for Oil Vapor to recirculate into your charge piping, slightly lowering overall octane and leaving a dirty oily coating on the
walls of your piping, intercooler, throttle body and intake manifold…yuck!
Adding a catch-can is a very inexpensive and great solution to this common occurrence!
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