spring install

[ENV²]

Anyone do their own spring install on the B8 S4? Im thinking of doing this myself but just want to know the difficulty of the job and if anyone has done a DIY write up... I have done brake jobs, tune ups, oil changes, fixed broken studs etc. A friend of mine did his b7 himself nd tells me its very easy. I just never did spring install or even watched one. I know I will need a spring compressor and I am very good at mechanical fixes. I just dont want to pay $500 for someone to install springs that cost just a fraction above half of that. Anyone do this ?

[UmIsThisThingOn]

There are quite a few DIY write ups on AZ in the B8 A4, S4 & A5/S5 sections.

[Daniel360]

i just completed mine it really wasnt that difficult and i did it on my own didnt have anyone to help me the wife was at work.

[Esoteric]

Based on the fact that you've done brake jobs, etc, I'd say you'll be fine with the right tools.

I did suspension on a couple of my old cars (G35, 535xi), and they were both relatively straightforward, particularly with a DIY to follow. I will say that having air tools made it infinitely easier, and yes a spring compressor is key. I've seen videos where guys do it without a spring compressor and that just scares the crap out of me.

Anyone do their own spring install on the B8 S4? Im thinking of doing this myself but just want to know the difficulty of the job and if anyone has done a DIY write up... I have done brake jobs, tune ups, oil changes, fixed broken studs etc. A friend of mine did his b7 himself nd tells me its very easy. I just never did spring install or even watched one. I know I will need a spring compressor and I am very good at mechanical fixes. I just dont want to pay $500 for someone to install springs that cost just a fraction above half of that. Anyone do this ?

[ENV²]

There are quite a few DIY write ups on AZ in the B8 A4, S4 & A5/S5 sections.

Can u PM me a linnk to one?

[ENV²]

i just completed mine it really wasnt that difficult and i did it on my own didnt have anyone to help me the wife was at work.

How long did this take you?

[ENV²]

Im still looking I searched and couldnt find a DIY for the B8. I spoke to Dan and he stated it could be done without taking rotors etc off. I just wanted a DIY with pics so I can gauge the difficulty of this job. If I can save myself some money on the install Ill gladly do it myself.

[wwhan]

Im still looking I searched and couldnt find a DIY for the B8. I spoke to Dan and he stated it could be done without taking rotors etc off. I just wanted a DIY with pics so I can gauge the difficulty of this job. If I can save myself some money on the install Ill gladly do it myself.

I have done springs, shocks & coilover installation on other cars, not on B8 S4.

The most critical things;
Good spring compressor compatible with you spring suspension setup (for the front)
Floor jack & jackstands, wheels chocks.
Torque specs for all the bolts
All the sockets and wrenches need for your install.
Very helpful, but not required - air tools.
Gloves, blocks of wood can come in handy
patience & planning

Here are some install links on S4/A4, but not B8, the first one relates to the second one;
http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?3499559
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel28.shtml
http://www.a4mods.com/index.php?page...coilovers.html
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel49.shtml

[2010S4]

I did my install of my H&R springs with a friend of mine who is a forklift mechanic. It took us all day to do but that is because we were taking our time and learning as we went along. You will need all of the tools listed above. Unlike mentioned above, we did not have to remove the rotors. We just just a spring compressor on the rear springs until we were able to pull them out. The front was easy once the shock unit was removed because there is to pressure on the front springs. I wish I had done a DIY, but we were just going with the flow. I would say you should be able to do it since you have done things like change brakes.

[ENV²]

Yea i heard that rotors dont need to be removed but I got a quote for 3 hrs labor 270 but my CC has a rewards thing where Ill get back 100 so itll cost me 170. I think thats pretty good. Compared to me prob taking 6 hrs + lol

[2010S4]

Yea i heard that rotors dont need to be removed but I got a quote for 3 hrs labor 270 but my CC has a rewards thing where Ill get back 100 so itll cost me 170. I think thats pretty good. Compared to me prob taking 6 hrs + lol

If you can get it done for 170 then I would say go for it.

[wwhan]

If you can get it done for 170 then I would say go for it.

That's a good price, if they know what they are doing, go for it.

[Toysoldier]

Yea i heard that rotors dont need to be removed but I got a quote for 3 hrs labor 270 but my CC has a rewards thing where Ill get back 100 so itll cost me 170. I think thats pretty good. Compared to me prob taking 6 hrs + lol

Did you get them done? Can you PM me the place you got it done at? I need to do mine and i'm debating on doing it myself (with some offered help) or avoiding the headache and pay someone.

[k9lovr]

+1 for spring compressor

Based on the fact that you've done brake jobs, etc, I'd say you'll be fine with the right tools.

I did suspension on a couple of my old cars (G35, 535xi), and they were both relatively straightforward, particularly with a DIY to follow. I will say that having air tools made it infinitely easier, and yes a spring compressor is key. I've seen videos where guys do it without a spring compressor and that just scares the crap out of me.

[foozed]

Spring compressor, the b6 DIY Write up, patience, muscle and beer.
Open ended wrenches key too for adjusting the spring compressors.
Don't give up. It comes together eventually.

[ENV²]

Eurotech Motorsports did the install for me. I highly recommend them. They were recommended to me by Richi B and we all know he is probably as meticulous as I am with his car lol. Go there, Ryan and Danik are awesome.

[RavinJetta]

Going to tackle my suspension this weekend and will try to take pics so we have a write-up for the B8 S4.

[nbosco]

I got a quote from my local shop for $1092 + tax installed (H&R OE Sport Springs on my 2011 S4). This sounds high compared to previous posts. Shop says that an alignment will be necessary as well. Thoughts? I'm in Denver, CO.

[ENV²]

I got a quote from my local shop for $1092 + tax installed. This sounds high compared to previous posts. Shop says that an alignment will be necessary as well. Thoughts? I'm in Denver, CO.

For springs?? Thats absurd. Go somewhere else ASAP

[pwraudio1]

Did mine in about 4hours by myself. Not hard at all.

[nbosco]

Did mine in about 4hours by myself. Not hard at all.

So I assume then that the car does not need to be re-aligned?

[nbosco]

So I assume then that the car does not need to be re-aligned?

Nevermind, found a thread talking about how it's recommend to align after you put ~weeks worth of milage on the new set up.

Would love the recommendation for a shop in the Denver/ boulder area.

[SASKCHAUCH]

For those of you that have done the installation. I have a quick question as I am about to tackle this tomorrow.

- Did you remove the upper control arms from the pinch bolt, or from the upper plate mount? I have seen both methods used is there any benefit to either methods?

Any help would be great

thanks

Aaron

[a4huey09]

I got a quote from my local shop for $1092 + tax installed (H&R OE Sport Springs on my 2011 S4). This sounds high compared to previous posts. Shop says that an alignment will be necessary as well. Thoughts? I'm in Denver, CO.

I was quoted over $1200 from Avalon MotorSports, ended up doing it myself w/o any issue. First side takes the most time second goes much faster. Rears are easy. Did my control arms on my b6 so was familiar with the process, difference in the two being you have to remove the c-arm(don't know correct name) on the bottom of the shock to get them out.

[a4huey09]

For those of you that have done the installation. I have a quick question as I am about to tackle this tomorrow.

- Did you remove the upper control arms from the pinch bolt, or from the upper plate mount? I have seen both methods used is there any benefit to either methods?

Not necessary for the install/removal but I think technically they should be loosened and re-tourqued with the wheels off and at ride height to protect from excessive wear on the bushings.

[jfabes]

For those of you that have done the installation. I have a quick question as I am about to tackle this tomorrow.

- Did you remove the upper control arms from the pinch bolt, or from the upper plate mount? I have seen both methods used is there any benefit to either methods?

Any help would be great

thanks


Aaron

When I did mine, i left the upper links on the top plate mount and removed from the pinch bolt, then removed the entire top-hat assembly with links attached. Its heavy and a little awkward to got out of there, but you just neeed to do it slowly and be careful not to hit the fender when pulling the assembly out. I think its easier like that since the pinch bolt go into the upper links together, rather than trying to line-up the links separately on the top mount, which is way up in the fender. might be tough to get a torque wrench up there whereas the pinch bolt is easy to access.

[PitchS4]

Not necessary for the install/removal but I think technically they should be loosened and re-tourqued with the wheels off and at ride height to protect from excessive wear on the bushings.

What he said is true. I removed them from the strut tower since they needed to be re-torqued at ride height anyway. It also makes it easier to navigate the assembly out from under the fender to not have the control arms attached to it.

[SASKCHAUCH]

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated. I did help a buddy do the oe springs on his a5 but was just trying to verify what most people were doing with the upper control arms.

I hope I can manage those rear springs....

Will update ... hahah

[jfabes]

What he said is true. I removed them from the strut tower since they needed to be re-torqued at ride height anyway. It also makes it easier to navigate the assembly out from under the fender to not have the control arms attached to it.

All of the bolts that are loosened need to be torqued at ride height (under load). But why would you loosen and retorque a bolt that didn't need to be loosened in the first place? Regardless of what end of the links you disassembled, the end you disassembled is the only end that needs torqued.

[PitchS4]

All of the bolts that are loosened need to be torqued at ride height (under load). But why would you loosen and retorque a bolt that didn't need to be loosened in the first place? Regardless of what end of the links you disassembled, the end you disassembled is the only end that needs torqued.

Wrong. You think the bushings you don't touch during installation magically adjust themselves? All of the bushings should be loosened and re-torqued at the new ride height if you want them to last, not just the bolts you removed. Even the lower control arm bushings...they spun as soon as they got loose enough at the new right height, so it was putting stress on them.

Since you need to loosen the bolts that attach the upper control arm bushings to the strut tower, you might as well remove them and not have to mess with the pinch bolt at all unless you like to torture yourself.

[jfabes]

Wrong. You think the bushings you don't touch during installation magically adjust themselves? All of the bushings should be loosened and re-torqued at the new ride height if you want them to last, not just the bolts you removed. Even the lower control arm bushings...they spun as soon as they got loose enough at the new right height, so it was putting stress on them.

Since you need to loosen the bolts that attach the upper control arm bushings to the strut tower, you might as well remove them and not have to mess with the pinch bolt at all unless you like to torture yourself.

i didn't loosen the bolts that attach the upper control arm bushing to the strut tower, so i don't follow what you are saying. i thought the pinch bolt was super easy, but my car was new with only like 1000 miles when i did it. i guess i just disagree with you...the suspension has several inches of travel that it uses every time you drive the car, hit a dip, etc. i guess what i'm saying is that if you didn't loosen a bolt, the bushing isn't really going to go anywhere, the part attached to it may spring a little bit, but not "out of whack", it is a resilient rubber after all. now, if you put a bolt back in a bushing in its relaxed state, then tighten it and jack it up 8"...that's a problem. if you had to loosen then retighten every bushing affected, you would have to retighten the whole front end, not just what you removed for the install! i followed 3 different DIY's i found on this site, vw vortex and quattroworld, and nowhere did i read anything about loosening then retighteneing bushings that didn't need to be loosened in the first place. only bushing that had bolts removed needed to be done under load. if you have this info, please share it for me and the other members.

[PitchS4]

Can you get away without retorqueing bushings? Sure, if you want them to fail prematurely. But at least do the damn uppers since it will make it easier to get the strut tower out anyway and those bushings are the thinnest (weakest) and more likely to fail. As the owner of 3 lowered S4s and the wife's B5 Passat I can tell you first hand that control arms are the most common PITA problem on these cars. I've seen control arms shredded in 10k miles that weren't adjusted properly.

The bushing flexes back and forth over bumps you are correct about that. But what that means is it is over stressing the unadjusted bushing even more when the suspension compresses. Not to mention they will be stressed at normal ride height (parked) which is where the vehicle is 99% of the time. The rubber is not as strong as you think.

Don't get me wrong, I love that other people around here aren't afraid to pick up a wrench and we are having this technical discussion vice where to put our EZ Pass. But please stop being stubborn and admit you were misinformed.

Don't let this be you: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-Spring-Damage!

Also this is a good quote from the install guide, "Vulcanized rubber suspension bushings must be tightened at ride height or adverse handling and premature failure of the bushings will result."

[jfabes]

Good thread. As many people replied, it is surprising that a 1" drop with the small amount of twist in that bushing if not loosened and retightened would cause failure. on a technical level as i was typing yesterday, i agreed with you, but on a realistic level, i'm looking at longevity at 100k miles when things start failing for age, not overstressing, etc so that's why i was arguing, but it is what it is, the premature failure thread is proof. you know how these forums are...you don't hear about the 1000 good things, you hear about the 1 bad thing...and I'm sure the 1000 people that did not retighten we will never hear from. I've lowered (myself) my previous cars two B5 A4's, e46 M3, mkv GTI, 986 Boxster and w203 C230k and never read about that. Maybe its true across the board or maybe the Audi bushing are more sensitive. So, thanks for the info. I do wish that info was in the diy's...i tried looking at the stasis thread imbedded but it said i don' thave access. and thanks for choosing your words carefully "stubborn and misinformed as opposed to "wrong"...i wish my wife thought like that! :)

[SASKCHAUCH]

Well I tackled this job Friday morning. For the most part it went smoothly, the only real issue is getting the bottom shock cup out/in.. I found it fairly tight and had to fight with it a bit. I was pretty paranoid about pulling the drive shaft out, as i was trying to wiggle the shock back into the cup. I ended up just doing one side at a time, and had no real issue with anything just had to use a second jack to lift the suspension to take some pressure off of the sway bar link bolt and line the shock mount up.

The rear went in easy as pie, just jacked the car, compressed the spring a little, and had a buddy stand on the pry bar, the spring came out easy. took about 10 mins a side in the rear.

Tips I can add

-take your time
-have a proper cup spreading tool for the shock mount, found screwdriver method was half assed.
- Chain saw tool noted in other thread works perfectly for upper strut nut (18mm)
- Open ended ratcheting wrenches are a Godsend
-Be aware of drive shaft and brake lines
-Jack stands for saftey
-gloves
-long sleeves ( cut the shit out of my fore arm on the brake sheild)

Overall I am super happy with the results, better steering wheel feel. Handles nicer, not too rough on the bumps. I think the OE drop is the perfect amount for me, as we drive the car all year round and get some pretty nasty winters here.

Thanks for all of the tips, and threads on Audizine, as well as the members that I pm'd

Apreesh!
-

[SteveYem]

I'm missing something here...how can you tighten the bushings "at ride height"? Do you need to use a second floor jack to compress the spring+strut from below and then tighten everything? And if so, how do you prevent the car from lifting when you use that second jack?

[jfabes]

I'm missing something here...how can you tighten the bushings "at ride height"? Do you need to use a second floor jack to compress the spring+strut from below and then tighten everything? And if so, how do you prevent the car from lifting when you use that second jack?

yes. while the car is up on jack stands, you put the jack under the lower assembly and jack it up to compress the spring until you reach ride height. your not going to compress the spring to the point where the car will lift, if you do, you compressed it too much.

[PitchS4]

Correct I put the jack on the flat spot on the lower control arm right under the knuckle and lift until it comes off the jackstand ever so slightly.

[KitB8S4]

where did you guys get the torque specs for the bolts? are they posted any where? Is there a writeup that's b8 specific?

[well_armed]

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post6812883

B8 A4/S4 TORQUE VALUES Suspension and Wheels

.................................................. .....Source "S"............... Source "A"

Front damper to upper mount ............ 37 ft-lbs ..........,.... (37 ft-lbs) 50NM

Front damper upper mount to body .....xx ft-lbs ..........,.... (30 ft-lbs) 40NM + 90deg

Front damper fork pinch bolt .......... .. 30 ft-lbs + 180º ......(30 ft-lbs) 40NM + 180deg

Front damper fork to lower link .......... 66 ft-lbs ............... (66 ft-lbs) 90NM + 90deg

Upper link pinch bolt ........................ 29 ft-lbs ................ (30 ft-lbs) 40NM

Rear damper to upper mount ............ 26 ft-lbs ................. (26 ft-lbs) 35NM

Rear damper upper mount to body .... 37 ft-lbs ................. (37 ft-lbs) 50NM + 45deg

Rear damper to upright .................. 111 ft-lbs ................. (111 ft-lbs) 150NM + 180deg

Rear sway bar link to sway bar ......... 30 ft-lbs

Rear sway bar mounts .................... 19 ft-lbs

Wheel lug bolts .............................. 90 ft-lbs

[KitB8S4]

thank you