DIY - Suspension Removal and Install Redux - Tips, Tricks and a Gripload of Pics

[daverdfw]

Sorry to bring back on old thread...does anyone know if you can simply tighten all the bolts with the wheels on and the car on jackstands? Seems like the easiest way to load the bushings, but not sure if I can reach those UCA bolts.

I am in the process of doing this now, for the upper UCA bolts, follow the bentley guide that was noted earlier in the thread. If you do it at the 81mm and 70mm you wont have to load the suspension and then try to get those bolts. I verified this with an Audi tech today. As a side note, i am doing Eibach and Koni yellows, I did get the sport bumpstops, but didnt put the dust cover back on because i couldnt get it off the OEM bumpstop.

[Luxus Panzer]

Great write up.. I will be doing this with a set of STs in the next few weeks.

A few questions...

1st...What is the " stupid speed washer on the guide posts. " ?

2nd.. So the consensus is to remove the entire strut assembly by removing the outer links and leaving the inner links (closest to spring) connected? What are the pros/cons to inner link removal vs outer link removal?

[CardFan]

Great write up.. I will be doing this with a set of STs in the next few weeks.

A few questions...

1st...What is the " stupid speed washer on the guide posts. " ?

I believe you are asking about the washer in this pic. It's hidden by the tip of the screwdriver, at the top of the guide post. A real pain in the a$$ to get off but no need to reinstall.

[customa4]

Agreed, fuck that washer.

[daverdfw]

Agreed, fuck that washer.

yeah double agree, just dealt with mine, i pulled down on the shock tower, that pulled the washer down just enough i could get a screw driver in there and bend it down.

[chamilun]

a few quick thoughts

If youre not replacing the rear springs, the rear shocks are extremely easy. loosen lower bolt in shock, then remove 2 13mm upper mount bolts. No need at all to cut sound insulation on top. When reinstalling, its easier to pull the sound insulation forward (very easy!), and hand screw the screws back in before using ratchet. As the OP mentioned, there is a volcano amount of crap that may get in your eyes so be careful.

The fronts: I think in the hindsight, the easiest way would have been to remove the upper control arms from the ball joint side, and take out the whole assembly. Probably no reason to even mess with the sway bar if you use that method, but Im not sure.

BUT THE BEST ADVICE I CAN GIVE: DONT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE STRUT ASSEMBLY DOWN UNTIL TORQUED! DON'T ASK HOW I KNOW THIS AND HAD TO ESSENTIALLY DO THE JOB TWICE :)

[a4darkness]

Agreed, that's by far the easiest way to remove the fronts and avoids the issue of having to properly align the UCAs prior to reinstall.
As this DIY was written some time ago... let's just say much has been learned.
However, it seems an edit of sorts is in order.

[daverdfw]

I get a weird noise every once in a while at low speed when turning, but only certain times. Its kinda a clunk, I can feel it in the steering wheel. But cant find anything obvious. Still need to get an alignment, maybe its tie-rod related?

[a4darkness]

Get the alignment and see if it persists. Turning clunks can often be...

* sway bar end link bolts
* lower control arm bolts
* upper shock tower nuts (this is usually over bumps rather than turns)

I was chasing a low speed front end clunk / pop for a while and assumed it was b/c I was running WRX Perrins in the front.
Figured that was the cost for some pretty stellar turn in.
However, it turned out to be loose lower control arm bolts. Guess I should have used Lock Tite when installing those.
When I last had the car aligned my buddy Mike/mjb2003 found this to be the issue. He's a pro at figuring that shite out.
Once it's on the rack maybe they'll be able to find out your issue as well, be sure to mention you've got a weird clunk and ask if they'll go for a spin with you prior.

[daverdfw]

Get the alignment and see if it persists. Turning clunks can often be...

* sway bar end link bolts
* lower control arm bolts
* upper shock tower nuts (this is usually over bumps rather than turns)

I was chasing a low speed front end clunk / pop for a while and assumed it was b/c I was running WRX Perrins in the front.
Figured that was the cost for some pretty stellar turn in.
However, it turned out to be loose lower control arm bolts. Guess I should have used Lock Tite when installing those.
When I last had the car aligned my buddy Mike/mjb2003 found this to be the issue. He's a pro at figuring that shite out.
Once it's on the rack maybe they'll be able to find out your issue as well, be sure to mention you've got a weird clunk and ask if they'll go for a spin with you prior.

great suggestions! I did replace all of the lower control arms as well, I will double check those just in case I missed getting one tightened down.

I did notice my toe was way off and that caused clunks, the more I adjusted it to get it closer to center, its gotten better. Waiting another week for the suspension to settle, then taking it to a place locally that preps race cars to get it aligned. Thanks for the great DIY!

[needmovies]

I'm getting ready to do my suspensions this weekend, got a quick question though regarding torquing down the UCAs. I've read a bunch of DIYs in the past hour and read that I should jack the hub up before torquing the UCA bolts. Is this process the same as the measurement in the image below? Would this mean that I can torque the UCA before I pop the strut tower back in and not have to jack the hub anymore when tightening things down? Also, would ride height affect the measurement in the image below or does it not matter? I'm switching from stock to H&R which would lower my ride height, and I'm guessing the 81mm specified below was meant for OEM.

Also, I'm gonna be replacing my lower control arms and tie rod ends. Are there any special torquing procedures for that or is that just going to be a remove/replace/tighten job?

Thanks

Maybe I missed it, but if you remove those upper control arms, you need to install them at an exact location...which is why most people don't remove them, cause you don't need to. Actually, I thought it was you that brought up this same issue awhile ago...there is a diagram in the bentley that shows how to set them if for some reason you want to remove them, here it is, sorry for crappy resolution, maybe someone else has a better one-

[customa4]

The upper control arms should be tightened before installing the strut tower back in place. The torque spec is 50 Nm + a 90 degree turn. I believe you will need to make just a slight adjustment to make up for the new ride height.

[needmovies]

The upper control arms should be tightened before installing the strut tower back in place. The torque spec is 50 Nm + a 90 degree turn. I believe you will need to make just a slight adjustment to make up for the new ride height.

Thanks, sorry I'm still confused though (newb here), does tightening this before I put the strut tower back in the same as when people say "tighten with load on suspension by jacking the hub up"?


edit: this and this is what I was talking about when I said "load the suspension when tightening". I was wondering if the process they described on those threads is the same as the measurement in that image I quoted above

Thanks

[SJorge3442]

You can 100% tighten the UCAs down once the tower is back in. Before you start the job, measure your Hub to Fender distance. Write this down. Then when you reinstall all of the control arms, jack up the hub to that height and tighten everything down. Mind you, its gonna suck getting to those UCA bolts, but they are def reachable. I just did it last weekend.

[needmovies]

You can 100% tighten the UCAs down once the tower is back in. Before you start the job, measure your Hub to Fender distance. Write this down. Then when you reinstall all of the control arms, jack up the hub to that height and tighten everything down. Mind you, its gonna suck getting to those UCA bolts, but they are def reachable. I just did it last weekend.

yes, but what I'm confused about is, that method you described, do I have to do that AND the 81mm measurement from the above post? Or do they both achieve the same result, hence I only need to do either one?

[SJorge3442]

yes, but what I'm confused about is, that method you described, do I have to do that AND the 81mm measurement from the above post? Or do they both achieve the same result, hence I only need to do either one?

they both achieve the same result. Some people dont have the tools to get the wrenches into the tight space after the shock tower is mounted back in.

[AudiA4_20T]

FWIW I never touch the pinch bolt. I swing the assembly out, stick the spring compressors on, and have a $30 electric impact gun for the top nut. Saves a ton of time and $$$

[customa4]

they both achieve the same result. Some people dont have the tools to get the wrenches into the tight space after the shock tower is mounted back in.

No where in the manual that I've read does it say torque those upper control arms to the mounting bracket once installed. There would be no way to get a proper torque once the shock tower is back in. I could be wrong but I can't find it.

[SJorge3442]

No where in the manual that I've read does it say torque those upper control arms to the mounting bracket once installed. There would be no way to get a proper torque once the shock tower is back in. I could be wrong but I can't find it.

I never said you can get a torque wrench in there. As like most of us, I guesstimate the torque needed for locations like this. Tight, but not too tight. I know I will get flammed on here for saying that, but what do you need to do when you need to pull the shock towers out when you DONT want to replace the UCAs?

[customa4]

I understand completely what you're saying. (I think lol) My point is the factory manual doesn't state it. I understand not everyone uses a torque wrench. I have one but don't always use it either. What I'm saying is it seems farfetched that when going to install that you would tighten them with the strut tower installed. It seems more difficult than it needs to be unless it's necessary. I'm not sure that I'm right here I'm just applying my logic. I honestly want to know what's right and wrong but I just know it's not mentioned in the manual, at least the part of it that I read. I'm gonna go glance at the Bentley and see what it says on the topic. Curious...

[SJorge3442]

I understand completely what you're saying. (I think lol) My point is the factory manual doesn't state it. I understand not everyone uses a torque wrench. I have one but don't always use it either. What I'm saying is it seems farfetched that when going to install that you would tighten them with the strut tower installed. It seems more difficult than it needs to be unless it's necessary. I'm not sure that I'm right here I'm just applying my logic. I honestly want to know what's right and wrong but I just know it's not mentioned in the manual, at least the part of it that I read. I'm gonna go glance at the Bentley and see what it says on the topic. Curious...

Basically, the arms SHOULD be tightened at ride height. Due to different shock and spring combos, that results in different arm geometry. I personally think it is best to know your hub to fender distance and use that since that is the best way to lock the arms in where they belong. Like I said, its hard to fit tools in that area, it may be better for your to tighten them on the bench. The chances of getting the ball joints out of the steering knuckle without wrecking them is slim. Thats why you disconnect the UCAs with the tower on the car and then remove the lower shock mount and work everything out.

[AudiA4_20T]

FWIW if you do it my way you never have to touch the UCAs.

[SJorge3442]

FWIW if you do it my way you never have to touch the UCAs.

literally jumped right over your post. Thats a good idea. I will probably be doing my shocks like this in the coming weeks.

[needmovies]

they both achieve the same result. Some people dont have the tools to get the wrenches into the tight space after the shock tower is mounted back in.

thanks customa4 and SJorge3442, this is what I was looking for. Sorry I didn't mean to start an argument, I was just confused if these are for two different things

I understand completely what you're saying. (I think lol) My point is the factory manual doesn't state it. I understand not everyone uses a torque wrench. I have one but don't always use it either. What I'm saying is it seems farfetched that when going to install that you would tighten them with the strut tower installed. It seems more difficult than it needs to be unless it's necessary. I'm not sure that I'm right here I'm just applying my logic. I honestly want to know what's right and wrong but I just know it's not mentioned in the manual, at least the part of it that I read. I'm gonna go glance at the Bentley and see what it says on the topic. Curious...

this is what I was thinking, which is why I wanted to know if I need to do both or just one or the other. I haven't looked at my car yet, but from the pics I've seen so far those bolts seems to be in a tight spot when the strut tower is mounted