so wtf is wrong with my car?! f%&!

[n7plus1]

yes, yes it is. my hands are scratched up to hell from it.

034 makes an aluminum replacement plug with AN threading on it...



http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...18t-p-392.html

[a4darkness]

So nice of them.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

034 makes an aluminum replacement plug with AN threading on it...



http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...18t-p-392.html

I don't need that anymore, it's in, it's secure, it was a nightmare.

Did the heater hose fix but the same problems are still existing. idles fine. CEL is still on. at low RPMs it feels like it doesn't want to run. Also when I first started the car today after working on it, the TC light was on and then went away after 3 seconds or so.... I think I may try and drive it up to Autozone and have them read the code while I pick up some MAF cleaner.

Also, the exhaust smells more than usual. It is a bit foul....

[Akronnnnnnnn]

ok, just went and unplugged the MAF and got no change. interesting. Heading back to Autozone for the third time today. Really hoping it's just dirty.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Currently still at Autozone. Cleaned the MAF. Bad news, no difference. Waiting for them to come out and read my codes. This is getting a bit ridiculous.

*edit* Home from Autozone. Put out 8(!) codes. Somehow I only managed to write down 6

P0171
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0444 - this is the plug I unplugged accidentally. If I had the car running when I unplugged it and plugged it back in, that would make the code show up, no? I'll check to make sure it's tightly plugged in but I'm pretty sure it is.
P0102

Time to do some searching. I am pretty much at the point where I am going to concede defeat and take it to my mechanic. I was hoping to take care of everything by myself, but I don't think that's going to work.

Also some interesting things happened on the way back. The car is no longer in limp mode. Runs great, full boost, but when I was turning onto my street I got the RED(!) Oil Pressure Light. Flashed twice and turned off. I haven't started the car yet since I got home literally a few moments ago.

[a4darkness]

Ok, just to be safe... no driving anywhere with the Red Oil Lite of Death.

Something to keep in mind, the system in our cars is quite connected and integrated. So, one thing goes bad and it can cause other stuff to act up. When my combi valve went, it thew a bunch of codes about misfiring cylinders. I thought it was CPs, turned out to be the valve causing the system to fail in another place.

I still think you've got something large unplugged and or leaking, but understand you've been all over the engine w/a flashlight and whatnot by now. However the emergence of the ROLOD concerns me.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Ok, just to be safe... no driving anywhere with the Red Oil Lite of Death.

Something to keep in mind, the system in our cars is quite connected and integrated. So, one thing goes bad and it can cause other stuff to act up. When my combi valve went, it thew a bunch of codes about misfiring cylinders. I thought it was CPs, turned out to be the valve causing the system to fail in another place.

I still think you've got something large unplugged and or leaking, but understand you've been all over the engine w/a flashlight and whatnot by now. However the emergence of the ROLOD concerns me.

when I had my clutch done 3 weeks ago my mechanic alerted me that my valve cover gasket was leaking. If it leaked enough for me to run dry, well, that's my own damn fault. I'll be checking the oil here shortly. I want to be positive the car is cooled down.

as far as the codes, yeah I know that one thing leads to the other. My biggest issue is being at school. Here I don't have the location(car is outside under a tree atm), tools, and most importantly the time to fix the car.

[a4darkness]

Okay man, keep us posted. Hopefully a solution can be found.

[Casius]

These things can be such a nightmare sometimes, good luck with this I feel for ya. As a side note, spend $20 on a good pair of mechanics gloves, they are the greatest thing in the world. If you get a good pair they'll protect your hands and you'll have nearly full dexterity to mess with little things and the such. Best investment I ever made

[Akronnnnnnnn]

I'll let you guys know what my mechanic says tomorrow. If anyone has any more suggestions, I'll have the car here for another couple days. Would I be safe driving it ten minutes to the shop? I really don't fancy paying for a tow.

[CyberPMG]

So what's the verdict?

[Akronnnnnnnn]

haven't talked to my mechanic yet, I will be calling him shortly. Hopefully he can get it in tomorrow. I'm pretty sure it's the MAF. I get no changes in idle when it's unplugged, and I cleaned it once pretty good. I just don't have the time to diagnose it myself.

[a4darkness]

Hmmmmm

[A4OrlandoB6]

Did you have oil? I wouldnt drive it with an oil light on............

[tapA4]

The breather hose was suuch a bitch! I had to replace mine when I first got my car. I feel your pain brother..literally

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Did you have oil? I wouldnt drive it with an oil light on............

oil level is fine. I just checked last night with the car fully cold

is it possible the MAF needs cleaned again? Like this guy, my MAF didn't even look dirty.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

spoke with Jeff @ Global Garage earlier today(my mech.).... He was concerned about the oil light as well, but thinks it might have to do with poor oil quality; I informed him that I went to Wally World to get it done... while I got synthetic, we both agreed Walmart probably doesn't use the highest of quality products. Thus we are going to do an oil change. He also said the valve cover gasket would pretty much never seep enough oil to make the level drop. He didn't seem too concerned about it, but wants to address that before we get into the possible leak. He also informed me that the vacuum leak sound I may be hearing might be the suction pump working correctly, as I told him it kind of sounds like a vacuum leak in that area but I can't specifically remember what the car sounded like before to compare. He said if we unhook the part that goes to the brake booster we can find out if that's what the sound is after all.

So the car is going to the shop wednesday at 7AM where we will briefly look it over together before he brings me back home so I can go to work. How awesome is that? Small shops ftw.

I'm confident we'll get it sorted out and running great by the weekend.

[a4darkness]

Lets hope!

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Just to give everyone the update, I drove the car to the shop today. Car ran fine. When I got there he looked it over and the vacuum leak sound I wasn't sure was a vacuum leak is my PCV valve. I also showed him the MAF "issue" with the idle not changing when unplugged and he informed me that the CEL is already on so unplugging the MAF won't have much of an effect.

While we were looking it over the cam seal leaked onto the cat and started smoking which would explain the smell I was smelling.

So he is going to replace the cam seal, valve cover gasket, change the oil, and look into those vacuum leaks. He seemed confident it wouldn't be too bad of an ordeal. Here's hoping there's nothing major there!

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Car is done!

Just got off the phone with Jeff. Basically, the sound I was hearing from the PCV was a result of the Suction Jet pump trying to push vacuum through the heater hose fix I did. It was having trouble doing that because the hose was a little too long and had a slight kink in it so he trimmed up the hose and it's all straight and good.

He cleared the faults(there were 13 of them by the time he got to them!) and watched the fuel trims fixing themselves for the correct idle. Took it for a test drive, and let the car run for 20 minutes at the shop without any codes.

So basically I had the damn thing fixed, I just had the hose too long!

But 1.5 hrs of labor + valve cover gasket & cam seal + oil change + the small fixes mentioned above only are running me $180. Can't wait to get the car back.

[CyberPMG]

Jeff does great work. Glad to hear your car is back to running status.

[a4darkness]

Was stoked to see you're back in action.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Jeff does great work. Glad to hear your car is back to running status.

yes he does. Just needed a second pair of eyes to look at it.

Was stoked to see you're back in action.

Me too! Thank god I didn't end up having all those annoying vacuum leaks I feared.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Just got another CEL tonight... The idle has been acting slightly wonky lately, bouncing from 800-1000rpms and lately even up to 1200rpms.

Gonna have it read tomorrow after work. other than slightly abnormal idle, the car runs fine.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

so the diaphragm in the PCV valve is ripped. probably do to pushing boost backwards because of the kinked line. replacing it friday.

[Bigboss6500]

Hey I have the same problem and I wanted to ask if u know.....I have that same pipe broken 06a 103 213 AM do u know if I can use 06a 103 213 F which is the same its just a lil longer?

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Hey I have the same problem and I wanted to ask if u know.....I have that same pipe broken 06a 103 213 AM do u know if I can use 06a 103 213 F which is the same its just a lil longer?

I'd recommend just using the 3/4" heater hose trick, but if you really want to go OEM, call the dealership with your vin.

[Bigboss6500]

Ok well I just got the OEM where u connected on the oil filter braket does it matter if on the braket I broke it well chipped it like on the ring I don't know if u know what I mean....oh where the clip goes (the small uclip) I kinda broke it a lil where it goes does it matter? And if it does what can I put right there like maybe silicon? Or somethin

[Akronnnnnnnn]

Ok well I just got the OEM where u connected on the oil filter braket does it matter if on the braket I broke it well chipped it like on the ring I don't know if u know what I mean....oh where the clip goes (the small uclip) I kinda broke it a lil where it goes does it matter? And if it does what can I put right there like maybe silicon? Or somethin

you broke the 90 degree bend using the clip? Like cracked the plastic? If so you'd be better off buying a new one since they crack anyway and if the plastic is already stressed, that's not a good thing.

[non_quattro02]

Ok well I just got the OEM where u connected on the oil filter braket does it matter if on the braket I broke it well chipped it like on the ring I don't know if u know what I mean....oh where the clip goes (the small uclip) I kinda broke it a lil where it goes does it matter? And if it does what can I put right there like maybe silicon? Or somethin

If you broke the bottom part that sits under the o ring then it might be ok since that should not cause a leak. If it's before where the o ring sits then you probably want to get a new one since it's not going to be air tight. That hose is kinda expensive I know. I just changed mine about 2 months ago.

[B7A4WD]

lOl what he said

[Akronnnnnnnn]

lOl what he said

thanks for bumping my thread with this

[subversion]

Bumping this thread again since I'm running into what seems to be the same problem.

About a month ago, my car stalled while in neutral when I stopped behind another car (maybe it stalled while I was stopping, but I didn't notice until I stopped completely) I turned it off and started it again and it started up with no problems. Fast forward to today, I drove on the highway about 4 different times (after not driving on the highway for months) to run some errands, so I pushed the car a bit (nothing crazy, I just actually used the turbo). After running my errands, I was leaving home to go to the gym when the car stalled out while I was backing out of my driveway. I started it up and it started but had a rough idle similar to when you have a bad coil pack. I decided against driving and just let it idle there for a bit and it continued to idle roughly and got worst when I put it in reverse. I pulled back into my garage, put the car in neutral, and popped the hood to make sure nothing was smoking/on fire (the temp gauge was normal), thankfully there wasn't a fire or anything like that. But the car stalled while I was checking under the hood. Suffice to say, I won't be driving the car today since I don't want to end up stranded.

My first thought was a bad fuel pump, but from what I've read about bad fuel pumps, the car doesn't turn over at all when it's the fuel pump and in my case the car is turning over and has a rough idle much like a bad coil pack, except that all the previous times I had a bad coil pack didn't involve the car stalling.

I just want some opinions from my observations whether I'm correct in suspecting that I probably have a large boost leak, somewhere.

EDIT: Some additional information: There were no lights on the dashboard except for the battery when the car stalled. The battery itself is pretty new (less than 2 year old Optima Red top). I replaced the fuel filter about a year ago. All four of my coil packs are the new revision D that I put in about a year ago, the spark plugs are also about a year old and are BKR6E-Irridium. I also drive a standard 5-speed.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

lol a useful bump here. I'd just check the two valves I ended up replacing. If neither of those, either check for boost leaks or get some MAF cleaner and try that.

Kinda weird for your car to stall out 3 times and get no CEL, though.

[subversion]

I drove it again today since like you said, there was no CEL and I wanted one to pop up before I scanned it. I drove to the nearest NAPA to pick up a valve cover gasket set since I'll need to replace it when I do my cam chain tensioner gasket. Anyhow, it wasn't a long drive, probably 5 miles each way, if that. The car started fine, backed out of my driveway fine, idled at the red light fine, drove there fine, and got me back home fine. No rough idle, no stalling, a perfectly normal drive. I used the turbo once when I had enough room on the road and I didn't get any vibrations at all. I also have no CEL.

I scanned it about two minutes ago the only thing it shows was that the cylinders were misfiring which I already mentioned. Maybe I'll have to risk driving it on the highway again to get it to stall and give me the codes I want? I'm considering starting a new thread since my issue seems odd.

Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,26,36,37,45,46,55,56,63,76
 
******************************************************************************-
Address 01: Engine
   Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0003
   Coding: 0016701
   Shop #: WSC 08144
3 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
            P0300 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
            P0303 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
            P0302 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

******************************************************************************-
Address 03: ABS Brakes
   Controller: 8E0 614 517 H
   Component: ABS/ESP allrad      2328
   Coding: 04275
   Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 08: Auto HVAC
   Controller: 8E0 820 043 L
   Component:   A4 Klimaautomat   1116
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 63351
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
   Controller: 8E0 907 279 E
   Component: int. Lastmodul  USA 0305
   Coding: 00013
   Shop #: WSC 63351
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Skipping Address 15-Airbags

******************************************************************************-
Address 16: Steering wheel
   Controller: 8E0 953 549 N
   Component: Lenksáulenmodul     0911
   Coding: 00041
   Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 17: Instruments
   Controller: 8E0 920 950 L
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D35
   Coding: 03200
   Shop #: WSC 13254
   WAULC68E13A205524     AUZ6Z0B0269774
1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

******************************************************************************-
Address 45: Inter. Monitor
   Controller: 8E0 951 177 
   Component: Innenraumueberw.   0604
   Coding: 00001
   Shop #: WSC 40322
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 46: Central Conv.
   Controller: 8E0 959 433 BB
   Component: Komfortgerát T7B    1311
   Coding: 11896
   Shop #: WSC 63351
1 Fault Found:
01562 - Right Rear Door
            59-00 - Can't Unlock

******************************************************************************-
Address 55: Xenon Range
   Controller: 4Z7 907 357 
   Component: dynamische LWR       D08
   Coding: 00060
   Shop #: WSC 63351
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 56: Radio
   Controller: 8E0 035 195 F
   Component: symphony II NP2    0051 
   Coding: 01201
   Shop #: WSC 40322
No fault code found.

End   **************************************************************************************************

[BlackB6quattro]

My biggest issue is being at school. Here I don't have the location(car is outside under a tree atm), tools, and most importantly the time to fix the car.

If you ever need a garage to work in I live in barberton about 10 to 15min. away. I'd be more than happy to help out a fellow B6 driver. I've all the tools you would need, so no need to bring any over either. Shoot me a pm if you ever need help, or just want to meet up. I have a friend who does some awesome photography as well.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

I drove it again today since like you said, there was no CEL and I wanted one to pop up before I scanned it. I drove to the nearest NAPA to pick up a valve cover gasket set since I'll need to replace it when I do my cam chain tensioner gasket. Anyhow, it wasn't a long drive, probably 5 miles each way, if that. The car started fine, backed out of my driveway fine, idled at the red light fine, drove there fine, and got me back home fine. No rough idle, no stalling, a perfectly normal drive. I used the turbo once when I had enough room on the road and I didn't get any vibrations at all. I also have no CEL.

I scanned it about two minutes ago the only thing it shows was that the cylinders were misfiring which I already mentioned. Maybe I'll have to risk driving it on the highway again to get it to stall and give me the codes I want? I'm considering starting a new thread since my issue seems odd.

Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,15,16,17,26,36,37,45,46,55,56,63,76
 
******************************************************************************-
Address 01: Engine
   Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
   Component: 1.8L R4/5VT     G   0003
   Coding: 0016701
   Shop #: WSC 08144
3 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
            P0300 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16687 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
            P0303 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16686 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
            P0302 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

******************************************************************************-
Address 03: ABS Brakes
   Controller: 8E0 614 517 H
   Component: ABS/ESP allrad      2328
   Coding: 04275
   Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 08: Auto HVAC
   Controller: 8E0 820 043 L
   Component:   A4 Klimaautomat   1116
   Coding: 00000
   Shop #: WSC 63351
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 09: Cent. Elect.
   Controller: 8E0 907 279 E
   Component: int. Lastmodul  USA 0305
   Coding: 00013
   Shop #: WSC 63351
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Skipping Address 15-Airbags

******************************************************************************-
Address 16: Steering wheel
   Controller: 8E0 953 549 N
   Component: Lenksáulenmodul     0911
   Coding: 00041
   Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 17: Instruments
   Controller: 8E0 920 950 L
   Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. RB4 D35
   Coding: 03200
   Shop #: WSC 13254
   WAULC68E13A205524     AUZ6Z0B0269774
1 Fault Found:
01176 - Key
            07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent

******************************************************************************-
Address 45: Inter. Monitor
   Controller: 8E0 951 177 
   Component: Innenraumueberw.   0604
   Coding: 00001
   Shop #: WSC 40322
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 46: Central Conv.
   Controller: 8E0 959 433 BB
   Component: Komfortgerát T7B    1311
   Coding: 11896
   Shop #: WSC 63351
1 Fault Found:
01562 - Right Rear Door
            59-00 - Can't Unlock

******************************************************************************-
Address 55: Xenon Range
   Controller: 4Z7 907 357 
   Component: dynamische LWR       D08
   Coding: 00060
   Shop #: WSC 63351
No fault code found.

******************************************************************************-
Address 56: Radio
   Controller: 8E0 035 195 F
   Component: symphony II NP2    0051 
   Coding: 01201
   Shop #: WSC 40322
No fault code found.

End   **************************************************************************************************

welp, I found your problem. your door locks are acting up =P

but no seriously. I'd go ahead and start another thread. Does seem a little peculiar. Cite this one so people don't bite you in the ass for not searching.

If you ever need a garage to work in I live in barberton about 10 to 15min. away. I'd be more than happy to help out a fellow B6 driver. I've all the tools you would need, so no need to bring any over either. Shoot me a pm if you ever need help, or just want to meet up. I have a friend who does some awesome photography as well.

thanks, are you a member of eurovagens? If not, head over there and register. My name is the same there. You can PM me either place.

[CyberPMG]

thanks, are you a member of eurovagens? If not, head over there and register. My name is the same there. You can PM me either place.

Don't forget fatDUBS! - The original NE Ohio site.

[subversion]

welp, I found your problem. your door locks are acting up =P

but no seriously. I'd go ahead and start another thread. Does seem a little peculiar. Cite this one so people don't bite you in the ass for not searching.

I ended up figuring out what was causing the random stalls. It turns out that a mouse built a nest under my plastic engine cover, in between two of the coil packs. I'm guessing he or the nest tripped the ground or the wires to cause the stalls. The mouse also decided to make my airbox his new home. I'm guessing he did this during the 3 weeks in winter my car was setting in my garage untouched while I was waiting to replace the downpipe that fell off.

I cleaned everything up when I replaced my cam chain tensioner and valve cover gaskets and haven't had a problem, since.

[Akronnnnnnnn]

I ended up figuring out what was causing the random stalls. It turns out that a mouse built a nest under my plastic engine cover, in between two of the coil packs. I'm guessing he or the nest tripped the ground or the wires to cause the stalls. The mouse also decided to make my airbox his new home. I'm guessing he did this during the 3 weeks in winter my car was setting in my garage untouched while I was waiting to replace the downpipe that fell off.

I cleaned everything up when I replaced my cam chain tensioner and valve cover gaskets and haven't had a problem, since.

wow, crazy! Glad you got everything sorted out though