Post for new members. Faq over view. PLEASE READ.

**Justincredible** · 03-26-2011 03:25 PM

This thread is currently under construction. How ever with the new members coming in and asking the same questions time and time again. This incomplete version of the NEW member FAQ has been moved over before its full completion.

please feel free to contact me at [email protected] if you have suggestions.

As always please feel free to offer suggestions or links to information you find will be helpful to new members.

Hello and welcome to the Audizine forums for the
B6 (2003-2005)
B7 (2005.5-2009)
S4 and RS4
RS4 (2006-2009)

This will help explain and bring you up to date on the B6/B7 S4.

A few misconceptions that get passed around due to people just not knowing. Along with a quick fact list.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________________

_________________________________FAQ Quick questions.

What will your car make whp wise stock: 250's whp. (on average)

There are so many dyno's that the swing is enormous. So much so that we take any dyno info with a grain of salt. Most standard dynos seem to be in the 240-270whp range. There are always happy dynos and companys that want people to be happy with there dyno results so they adjust the calculation to read higher. Then there are some types of dynos that just read low. But ON average expect 250whp

The motors are not strong: Wrong

Obviously there is a gauge to what one might call strong or able and what someone else might call strong or able. The motors can take about 150whp-200whp over stock. 200whp being at the extreme limit. This has been shown off of the 250whp stock to the 450whp modified. anything after that you should do the pistons and rods

The B6/B7 isn't very mod friendly: Wrong

Consider your B6 or B7 S4 just like the 4.6 n/a 1995-2004 mustang. All the same modifications are available and the results are better for the S4 then they were for the mustang. The modifications available for your S4 are super long. From exhaust to blowers. Our forum sponsor JHM offers just about every hp modification for this car you can imagine. JHM along with the long list of other great companys gives the B6/B7 S4 a deep list of performance modifications to choose from

What is are the first things I should look at on my new S4: Coil packs/ plugs/ fuel filter.

Check to see that your coil packs are past Version Q. There is a big recall on these cars for coil packs. Plugs are another thing you really need to make sure you have checked. These cars love the 4 post plugs that came stock. Don't venture out from that. The 4 post work really well. The fuel filter can be the plague of power loss. The fuel filter holds both your dirty particles from the tank but it also is where your fuel pressure regulator is at. So make sure to change that when needed.

What are the first performance modification I should do to my car: Exhaust is the single best place to start.

It will be the core of the foundation for future modifications. Start with Dp's. You can do a great free modification on your stock DP's just by removing the precat. Your stock exhaust measures as close to 2.0 as it gets. So I never understood why people would get a 2.2" exhaust when The 2.5" exhausts can offer the same noise quiet exhaust levels as the 2.0 and the 2.2" you just need to get the proper one.

All out power wise. JHM headers and a solid 2.5 catback is the performance primer for exhaust. For ALOT more GREAT information on this please see the Break down on the performance options available Section. It will cover lots of the common modifications
The list of available mods are as follows
ECU calibrations (chips)
Superchargers
Nitrous kit. (direct port)
Headers
Down pipes
Cat back exhaust systems
intake spacers
modified intake manifold
L/W flywheel
L/W crank pulley
L/W rotors (brake)
Short shifter and transmission shifter linkage
Clutch upgrades
Larger oil cooler

What is the best chip for my car. Simple.

While I always say the best chip for your car is a good exhaust this sums it up best.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ustomer-review

This post will bring you up to speed on several Questions on and about the S4 and then the RS4.

This post will cover.

The
Over view of the car
differences between the B6 & B7
Service suggestions and options.
Entire brake down on the 4.2 motor
Break down on the performance options available

List will continue to grow.

**Justincredible** · 03-26-2011 03:26 PM

Saved for category 1

This is a quick overview of the car and some of the specs.

The motor is an ALL aluminum V8. 4.2

Curb weight The manual is listed at 3869lbs. Add another 120lbs to that for the automatic.

Gear raito 3:89 for the manual and 3:53 for the automatic.

Power 340hp @ 7000 for the manual and 340hp @ 6800 for the automatic.

Suspension front Four-link, upper and lower control arms, stabilizer bar, coil springs/shock absorbers (gas charged)

Suspension Rear Fully independent, trapezoidal link rear suspension, stabilizer bar, separate coil springs and shock absorbers (gas charged)

Brake System Dual circuit brake system with diagonal split, Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), Electronic Brake pressure Distribution (EBD) and
Electronic Stabilization Program, upgraded version 8.0 (ESP) with brake disc wiping feature; tandem brake booster

Brake size Front. 345x30 mm Rear 300x12 mm

Wheels 18" with a 43mm off set.

Body construction Unitized steel structure with integrated aluminum and magnesium components

Wheelbase 104.3"

Car over all length (b6) 179.0 (b7) 180.6"

Car over all width (b6) 69.5 (b7)70.1" (with mirrors)

**Justincredible** · 03-26-2011 03:26 PM

Originally Posted by Justincredible

Saved for category 2

Break down on the performance options available

Without fail the best starter modification you can do is exhaust. Covered in this post are going to be some of the modifiacations you can put on your 4.2 S4.

The days of old are over for us. After 5+ years of the B6/B7 S4 being the "slow" car in the performance market. Things have taken a large turn for the better performance wise. The B6/B7 S4 has become a real performance car with lots of options.

The list of available mods are as follows
ECU calibrations (chips)
Superchargers
Nitrous kit. (direct port)
Headers
Down pipes
Cat back exhaust systems
intake spacers
modified intake manifold
L/W flywheel
L/W crank pulley
L/W rotors (brake)
Short shifter and transmission shifter linkage
Clutch upgrades
Larger oil cooler

ECU calibrations (chips):

The beggining was real rocky for us with chips. It was a long time before anyone really offered anything solid. I very largely suggest staying away from any company that isn't included in this poll. Every market will see fly by night companys that are more then willing to put your car at risk. These companys listed are not only AZ site certified they have been in the B6/B7 tuning game with a solid reputation for a long time.

Here are some member reviews
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ustomer-review

Superchargers:

This one is hard. There are 3 top companys selling S/C kits. Two use the M90 and has come with strong criticism for being maxed out on our cars. While there is the JHM Vortech unit that showed a strong performance test with a 11.9@117. The JHM unit was also tested on a Stock Automatic car. Its results were quite impressive for a stock automatic car it went 12.5@113. There was a company that made a One off M90 unit (RAI) that was a step behind the JHM but it had more mods. For a M90 S/C it was the best offering we have seen for the M90. While time will tell, it seems that even on the RS4 and S5 the best performance numbers anyone can get out of a M90 blower on the 4.2 motor is a 12.5.

Nitrous kit. (direct port):

This is one is my personal favorite. Right now JHM is the only company that offers a real NOS solution for our cars. Its the Direct Port NOS option. I can trace the direct port back to the Mustang days. Going direct port is one of the safest ways to introduce nos to our motors.

Don't let OLD misconception stop you from new technology. If NOS was as unsafe as some of the uneducated people say. Then it wouldn't be one of the largest used performance mods there is. While not every kit is equal or safe Direct port is the best way to go. I have the JHM direct port kit on my car and after looking it over its the best kit on the market.

While some people have tried the NON Direct port approach. Its not super advisable. If you go over a 50shot your going to get fuel puddling and then a fuel pressure drop.

Headers: Headers Really do the trick on the S4. The Headers on your S4 will really make it a TQ monster. The headers have shown to make over 50wtq over stock and thats before a chip. The Tq curve comes in 1000rpm sooner and holds for 1000rpm longer then even the best set of DP's. when you start to look at our big brother the RS4. You can see they have a Try Y header design. So Audi was looking at something when they made that.

The best part about the headers is its a great everyday driving modification. The headers really shine in the driving power band of 2500-4500.

While the headers require a removal of the motor they are something that might be pricey to install. If your able to do the work yourself. Its well worth the time.

Down pipes: Or Dp's as there called by so many. If your stock modified or somewhere in between modifying your Dp's are a GREAT idea. The Pre cat on our Dp's has been show to cause massive heat back up into the motor and a great big restriction at the exit of the exhaust manifold. For this reason I highly suggest removing your pre cat.

You can modify your stock Dp's and remove the cat (Free) or you can get (Piggies) as there called threw some of our venders on AZ.

There are aftermarket DP's that still use the Pre cat design. while this IMHO isn't the most optional way to do it. The cats they use generally flow better then stock and they help provide some performance gain.

Lastly are the Catless Dp's this is straight to the point. They work great for helping our motor make great power.

Cat back exhaust systems:

Your stock cat back measures about 2.1"
There are two size offerings for our cars.
2.25
2.50

For power 2.5 is going to be the needed size. Getting a 2.25 isn't much bigger then stock and while it will change the tone of the exhaust most people have seen little to no gain from the 2.25 exhaust. Most of the people who see a gain see it on the 2.5"
Read this for more
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...101.-VERY-LONG

Sound wise its up to you. You can have a 2.5" exhaust be just as quiet as a 2.25" exhaust you just have to look. There are lots of great options no matter what size you go.

The performance primer for the 4.2 has found that the X pipe will work wonders for performance and sound.

intake spacers :
The intake spacers are there to help keep the 3' long intake runner from heating up the air before it goes into your motor. The intake spacers really help on the hot days when your motor would normally start to loose power after it heat soaked. The intake spacers really keep the temps down.
Read here for more
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...intake-spacers

modified intake manifold:
While some members (me included) realized that the stock intake manifold was a restriction we tryed to fit S8 intake manifolds due to there free flow design. While it very costly to do the S8 intake manifold it will add power. JHM came out with a solution with our stock intake manifold. Its a plug and play intake manifold and it makes good power

Read here for more
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post5166540

L/W flywheel:

What sports car wouldn't be complete without the option of the L/W flywheel. This is a simple reduction of the weight on the back of the motor. Rotational weight on the motor can slow down the motor. Less weight helps the motor climb quicker through the RPM's Its a great mod if your going to do a clutch upgrade.

Note. The lighter weight flywheel is very prone to chatter at low RPM's and high loads. While this is almost never seen by drivers that have selected the proper gear. Its possible to get your L/W flywheel to experience chatter if you chug the motor. You will chug the motor if your in too high of a gear at too low of a speed and you try to accelerate. Easy fit to never have this happen. Make sure you in the proper gear or just down shift.

While flywheel chatter isn't damaging it can catch you by surprise if you are unaware if it.

L/W crank pulley: This is the same concept as the L/W flywheel. This takes a good amount of weight off the front of the motor. The end result is better motor response and acceleration.

L/W rotors (brake): As far as performance goes many people don't look at rotors as a performance part. That would be a big mistake, to over look the great gains to be had from the L/W performance rotors. I know the JHM rotors dropped 10lbs each side in the front alone. I noticed a GREAT improvement in acceleration from these. Its definitely worth the few extra dollars over getting the stock replacements.

Some people think that the L/W rotors will some how ware out sooner then the OEM ones. This simply isn't true. Ive got 20,000+ miles on my rotors and I drive them hard. I know people who have more then that. The rotors are high on my list of great mods to get. You pay one time the little bit extra to get the new rotors and hats, then when its time to replace the rotor rings. Its cheaper then even the cheap china replacement rotors that still weight 20lbs more

**Justincredible** · 03-26-2011 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by Justincredible

Saved for category 3

Service suggestions and options.

A few things that will keep your S4 healthy for a long time are keeping on top of your service intervals.

First and foremost. There has always been debate over the Oil change interval on the car. The dealer tells you that you can go almost 8000miles before you need an oil change. But given the fact that this motor can run into failures in the timing chain tensioners (that run off oil pressure) and the rest of the close clearances we have on this motor. The intervals most users use is 3000-5000miles NO MORE then 5000.

So
Oil change 3000-5000