B6/B7 S4 Timing Chain FAQ / Information / Discussion Thread

[Ranulf Lucas]

From my experience, as soon as it starts rattling, it's probably a good idea to get the engine looked at.

I waited a few months after rattle until the engine warning light came on. When my usual garage (non Audi specialist - who were however aware of the potential issue with the chains etc as one of them used to own a RS4) looked at it, the engine misfired and slipped a couple of teeth on one of the cranks. This meant I now have an additional bill of approx. $2k to cover damaged valves etc as a couple of them hit and were bent.

Tricky situation I know, expensive pre-emptive work or VERY expensive fixing work (which may or may not happen). Obviously I wish I had gotten it looked at sooner rather than later.

Unfortunately too, my Audi Specialist has had a nightmare getting hold of non OEM parts, so we have had to go direct to Audi for some of the replacements.

[gforce1]

Thats what im doing, getting looked at right away before major blow up. So many wildly different quotes its not even funny. Quotes as low as 4200 up to 12k. Talked to shop in MA that does these a good bit, they typically do for 5500. Seems these $8500+ quotes are doing overkill, possibly replacing lots of expensive parts that really don't need replaced. Only cause the engine is out. Plus add in another $1500 for hi-perf. clutch and flywheel while engine is out, very little extra labor to add on. Starting to think get fixed as cheap as possible and move on from this very expensive car.

[Ryanroland]

Thats what im doing, getting looked at right away before major blow up. So many wildly different quotes its not even funny. Quotes as low as 4200 up to 12k. Talked to shop in MA that does these a good bit, they typically do for 5500. Seems these $8500+ quotes are doing overkill, possibly replacing lots of expensive parts that really don't need replaced. Only cause the engine is out. Plus add in another $1500 for hi-perf. clutch and flywheel while engine is out, very little extra labor to add on. Starting to think get fixed as cheap as possible and move on from this very expensive car.

Look at JHMs kits on their website. Give the guys a call (all very friendly and helpful) and see which kit is best for you and what they recommend to replace while you have it out. Also ask if they know any shop in a decent distance from you (they have dealers/shops that they let sell/install their product). You might as well ask how much they charge for that job, and I would bet that would be your professional baseline to start with.

I got a quote on timing chain service from them when I was very fresh into my Audi and I was blinded by sticker shock. Coming from Hondas it was more than what I pay for a whole car so I wasn't interested. I thought about selling the Audi, then I started to think about what other car can give me this much enjoyment and comfort for that price. Nothing. I don't remember how much the quote was exactly or which kit they were recommending, but I did get some other service done there and my front brakes, and I was very impressed by the whole crew. They are super passionate about Audis and love their customers.

Give it a shot. And once you do this timing chain, you may get to really enjoy the car for another 10 years easy.

[Hooblah]

What's the bare minimum that needs to be replaced?

[neilpaku]

What's the bare minimum that needs to be replaced?

Unfortunately a "depends" answer. Things that can wear / break and commonly do (rough prices from my purchases - your mileage may vary):
- left main chain guide $70
- upper main chain guide $40
- intake valve adjuster sprocket - pin hole wallows out (750 for two sprockets JHM, 550 for one entire adjuster incl. sprocket Audi)
- camshaft bolts (two long intake, two short exhaust) - 4 ea
- oil check valves (kit 170)

Those are the main things that lead to those symptoms, but then there is a plethora of gaskets, seals, torque-to-yield bolts that the manual says to replace, guessing a few hundred. If that's all that you had to replace, your parts might only add up to under 1500 say. I think the "standard" labor qty is 40 hours so there's 4k, but obviously if you do it yourself, that doesn't come directly out of your pocket.
On top of that, folks often look to replace a bunch of other stuff "because they're already in there" - hoses, clutch, etc.
But if you just did the bare minimum, parts and labor you could get away with 5-6k.

[Hooblah]

Ok thanks. I'll be replacing all the guides, but do I need to replace the tensioners? At what mileage should the chains be replaced? Mine's done just under 120,000 miles.

I'll be doing the check valves as well as a bunch of other small jobs. I'm just trying to figure out what I can get away with not replacing to minimise outlay.

Does anyone have the part number for the RS4 guide that fits? And is it worth the extra cost?

Is it imperative to use the cam/crank locking tools? It shouldn't move unless I start torquing bolts, but i'll have the chains on it at that stage so if it does move, it will all move together.

[REVOofRustler]

I didnt replace my chains and mine is at 173k miles. Maybe I should have, but I guess I'll find out once it's back on the road. I've read before that it's pretty rare for the chains to need replacing.

The crank lock is definitely necessary. You don't want the crank to rotate while torqueing the cam bolts. I imagine the hall sensor tools are necessary as well, and at that point you might as well get the cam locks as well. ECS sells the Schwaaben kit for 175. That's the route I went vs. tenting the tools.

[neilpaku]

Tensioners don't need replacing, although I did one because I replaced all the guides and one of the guides is integral to the tensioner (at least I couldn't find a separate part #)

[badger.]

Ok thanks. I'll be replacing all the guides, but do I need to replace the tensioners? At what mileage should the chains be replaced? Mine's done just under 120,000 miles.

I'll be doing the check valves as well as a bunch of other small jobs. I'm just trying to figure out what I can get away with not replacing to minimise outlay.

Does anyone have the part number for the RS4 guide that fits? And is it worth the extra cost?

Is it imperative to use the cam/crank locking tools? It shouldn't move unless I start torquing bolts, but i'll have the chains on it at that stage so if it does move, it will all move together.

1. Chains are not really necessary to replace IMO. I've never heard of chain breaking or being damaged (unless a guide or tensioner had catastrophically failed). Mine are at 197k now and still just fine AFAIK.

2. As far as bare minimum, neil mostly got it I think. I would disagree slightly on the sprockets; depending on your time to do the job, I would recommend making the call whether you need those or not until you can inspect your current ones. I think very long term they would need replacing due to the inherent material issue causing the pin hole to wallow out, but there have been people with 150k+ miles on them and they aren't wallowed out at all. Basically what I am trying to say is you may or may not need them, and you can save yourself a lot if you wait to inspect your existing ones (ask me how I know...) The sprockets that are included in the JHM Intermediate and higher kits and add ~$750 to the cost. Alternatively, once in a while some people have swapped in the JHM ones and have low mileage stock ones they are willing to sell. I sold mine (with 160k on them but very little wallowing) for like $40 to someone since I didn't need them anymore.

For a "one stop" shop to get the guides and whatnot the JHM Basic kit is probably a good bet ($1000) as it gets you all new guides (including the RS4 version of the one) and MOST of the little orings and seals you would need. Pick through my old thread (just one of many on here with lots of good timing info); there is a spreadsheet I made with lots of part numbers and a few other posts with parts info if you want to try and piecemeal it cheaper.

3. The RS4 specific P/N is floating around in many threads, I think a little digging and you can find it. I don't know if offhand though. Might even be in that post I linked above haha. As far as being worth any extra cost = YES.

4. I would recommend using the tools. They are cheap insurance. You can rent them or buy them, or there are many people on here that own them you can borrow from for much cheaper than renting elsewhere.

[gforce1]

All this is very helpful. I called ECS tuning (local to me) for some recommendations. They recommended one place, only about 30 miles away. Got several recommendations to same shop from some other friends i made along the way. Car just got there today. Told them to take their time. I have an extra car to drive, so no rush. Will ask them what parts they plan on replacing after they take initial look. Their over the phone quote was much lower than anyone else. So i assume that they figure on only replacing the minimum.. Other shops quoted up 12k! Said they ONLY replace everything. Overkill Im sure.
So now the question is ...what clutch to stick in there while its all apart? Akready decided to keep original flywheel barring any issues. Only 70k miles, so doubt any issues on flywheel. Considered lightweight, but as daily driver and added expense of near $1k, Ill save my money towards coilovers.

[0396]

Thanks for sharing the price point of other shops. Good luck with your S/4.

[Dagear]

Hello All.

I was bit by the VW / Audi Bug in the mid 1980's, Vehicles owned 3 Type II vans, 1980 -4000, 1987- 4000 Quattro, BMW R1220RT & R1150 Moto's

Currently looking at 2005 S4, Owner states he was cruising at 65 to 70 then engine light blipped and engine went dead. Towed Home now only runs REAL rough and only for few seconds. Due to the price, I am considering purchasing. The timing belt work doesn't bother me, more complex than my Honda Odyssey, VW Bug, Honda CRV but still a timing system.

Looking for input on how to check if the vehicle has valve or piston damage. Thinking of using inspection camera via sparkplug hole to check out piston tops. But unsure of how to test valves is there a location on this engine to manually crank over? Thinking of threading in a compression testing and manually crank over.

Thoughts?

[jakeoboy67]

Hello All.

I was bit by the VW / Audi Bug in the mid 1980's, Vehicles owned 3 Type II vans, 1980 -4000, 1987- 4000 Quattro, BMW R1220RT & R1150 Moto's

Currently looking at 2005 S4, Owner states he was cruising at 65 to 70 then engine light blipped and engine went dead. Towed Home now only runs REAL rough and only for few seconds. Due to the price, I am considering purchasing. The timing belt work doesn't bother me, more complex than my Honda Odyssey, VW Bug, Honda CRV but still a timing system.

Looking for input on how to check if the vehicle has valve or piston damage. Thinking of using inspection camera via sparkplug hole to check out piston tops. But unsure of how to test valves is there a location on this engine to manually crank over? Thinking of threading in a compression testing and manually crank over.

Thoughts?

ask the owner what codes pop up when scanning it , just to confirm a timing failure/bent valves. I'm pretty sure that's what happened, by the symptoms he described.

*timing chain* (probably a typo)

A borescope/camera would be able to confirm if there was piston to valve contact. (compression test will probably indicate no compression on 1 bank)

what price are we talking about ?

btw: welcome !

[Dagear]

Yes my mistake, timing chain. I have done timing belts on newer bugs, odyssey crvs.
$1500, 125K

[willroc7]

All this is very helpful. I called ECS tuning (local to me) for some recommendations. They recommended one place, only about 30 miles away. Got several recommendations to same shop from some other friends i made along the way. Car just got there today. Told them to take their time. I have an extra car to drive, so no rush. Will ask them what parts they plan on replacing after they take initial look. Their over the phone quote was much lower than anyone else. So i assume that they figure on only replacing the minimum.. Other shops quoted up 12k! Said they ONLY replace everything. Overkill Im sure.
So now the question is ...what clutch to stick in there while its all apart? Akready decided to keep original flywheel barring any issues. Only 70k miles, so doubt any issues on flywheel. Considered lightweight, but as daily driver and added expense of near $1k, Ill save my money towards coilovers.

Where did you take it? I'm in the same area.

[jakeoboy67]

Yes my mistake, timing chain. I have done timing belts on newer bugs, odyssey crvs.
$1500, 125K

for 1500 I'd do it ! that's really cheap

repairing it would be a long and expensive(head work) process, but it's all worth it in the end.

[TarlCabot]

Hello All.

I was bit by the VW / Audi Bug in the mid 1980's, Vehicles owned 3 Type II vans, 1980 -4000, 1987- 4000 Quattro, BMW R1220RT & R1150 Moto's

Currently looking at 2005 S4, Owner states he was cruising at 65 to 70 then engine light blipped and engine went dead. Towed Home now only runs REAL rough and only for few seconds. Due to the price, I am considering purchasing. The timing belt work doesn't bother me, more complex than my Honda Odyssey, VW Bug, Honda CRV but still a timing system.

Looking for input on how to check if the vehicle has valve or piston damage. Thinking of using inspection camera via sparkplug hole to check out piston tops. But unsure of how to test valves is there a location on this engine to manually crank over? Thinking of threading in a compression testing and manually crank over.

Thoughts?

it will have failed guides and bent valves at the least... also, very scored cylinder walls

[TarlCabot]

Yes my mistake, timing chain. I have done timing belts on newer bugs, odyssey crvs.
$1500, 125K

$1500 for what ? comp and leak down test with scope ? a little over priced

you are not going to find anybody to even pull the engine... much more do a timing service labor ONLY for $1500

maybe on a front timing belt engine, but this one is rear and guaranteed to have bent valves, that alone is $1000 to $1500 for head work

[Dagear]

1500 for purchase of vehicle

[lunder03]

it will have failed guides and bent valves at the least... also, very scored cylinder walls

Nay.

Broken or slipped timing chain/belt doesn't always mean broken/damaged guides or scored cylinder walls...chances are actually good that it is not the case.

Bent valves...broken timing belt at 65-70...a certainty. You'll also most likely have a few damaged lifters due to them being sandwiched between the piston and cam lobe when the valve slammed into the piston at the same time the cam lobe came in contact with the valve...ask me how I know.

The pistons themselves are only bad if the valve manages to hit on the outer most rim or if it manages to crack it...it could also snap a connecting rod, but this can easily be determined after the heads are removed by rotating the crank and pushing down on each piston as they reach top dead center.

On my motor, on each cylinder, only two of the three intake valves were bent...the two setting side by side...all the 5th valves were fine. As for the exhaust valves one on each one. Only surface damage to the pistons.

Good luck and hopefully things aren't too bad.

At the engines mileage it'll need new valve seals too.

Hello All.

I was bit by the VW / Audi Bug in the mid 1980's, Vehicles owned 3 Type II vans, 1980 -4000, 1987- 4000 Quattro, BMW R1220RT & R1150 Moto's

Currently looking at 2005 S4, Owner states he was cruising at 65 to 70 then engine light blipped and engine went dead. Towed Home now only runs REAL rough and only for few seconds. Due to the price, I am considering purchasing. The timing belt work doesn't bother me, more complex than my Honda Odyssey, VW Bug, Honda CRV but still a timing system.

Looking for input on how to check if the vehicle has valve or piston damage. Thinking of using inspection camera via sparkplug hole to check out piston tops. But unsure of how to test valves is there a location on this engine to manually crank over? Thinking of threading in a compression testing and manually crank over.

Thoughts?

1. Chains are not really necessary to replace IMO. I've never heard of chain breaking or being damaged (unless a guide or tensioner had catastrophically failed). Mine are at 197k now and still just fine AFAIK.

2. As far as bare minimum, neil mostly got it I think. I would disagree slightly on the sprockets; depending on your time to do the job, I would recommend making the call whether you need those or not until you can inspect your current ones. I think very long term they would need replacing due to the inherent material issue causing the pin hole to wallow out, but there have been people with 150k+ miles on them and they aren't wallowed out at all. Basically what I am trying to say is you may or may not need them, and you can save yourself a lot if you wait to inspect your existing ones (ask me how I know...) The sprockets that are included in the JHM Intermediate and higher kits and add ~$750 to the cost. Alternatively, once in a while some people have swapped in the JHM ones and have low mileage stock ones they are willing to sell. I sold mine (with 160k on them but very little wallowing) for like $40 to someone since I didn't need them anymore.

For a "one stop" shop to get the guides and whatnot the JHM Basic kit is probably a good bet ($1000) as it gets you all new guides (including the RS4 version of the one) and MOST of the little orings and seals you would need. Pick through my old thread (just one of many on here with lots of good timing info); there is a spreadsheet I made with lots of part numbers and a few other posts with parts info if you want to try and piecemeal it cheaper.

3. The RS4 specific P/N is floating around in many threads, I think a little digging and you can find it. I don't know if offhand though. Might even be in that post I linked above haha. As far as being worth any extra cost = YES.

4. I would recommend using the tools. They are cheap insurance. You can rent them or buy them, or there are many people on here that own them you can borrow from for much cheaper than renting elsewhere.

Sent from my SM-G360P using Tapatalk

[Ranulf Lucas]

The various bits and pieces required to bring the V8 back to life......

Labour 42 hours
Remove and refit engine. Rebuild both heads. Replace all timing gear. Dress 8 pistons
Clutch & release bearing
Head gasket x 2
Head bolts x 20
Sealer
Oil filter
Head Skim
Intake manifold gasket
Exhaust manifold gasket
Rear crank oil seal
Engine oil
Spark plugs x 8
Inlet valve x 12
Inlet valve guides x 20
Valve stem oil seals x 40
Rocker gaskets x 2
Audi timing kit inc VVTI units and sprockets (21 separate parts)

[99PanozAIV]

Thanks for this thread. I have a 2008 Audi S4 Avant, Tiptronic, with 96,000+ miles. I've had no major problems with it, runs fine now, always prompt with service, doesn't use a drop of oil, etc. Nevertheless, from reading this, it sounds like I might need to bite the bullet and pay for an expensive service soon. I'm mostly retired now and cannot begin to tackle a job like this, either physically or from a knowledge/skill point. Are any here in the mid-Atlantic region (I'm near Frederick, Md) and know of a reputable shop/dealer that can do this work and do it right?

[happy2B5]

Contact member JimmyBones and pick his brain. He will steer you in the right direction

[Dagear]

Is there a year and or serial number where the timing chain components were upgraded?

My 2005 failed if I replace with a 2007 engine would I need to do timing service


Sent from my iPad using Audizine

[neilpaku]

Here's what I know, others may have additional information:
- of the two timing chain guides that typically fail, one is able to be replaced by the equivalent guide from the RS4 engine. I don't know if that RS4 guide was ever installed in the S4 engine from the factory. I've heard that the other guide was replaced by one with "better" plastic but don't know that for sure. In any case, checking those two would be cheap insurance if you already had the engine out to swap it over, and would only require the torx drivers
- I had a third guide break: the main crank-to-idler chain guide on the passenger side. It was still working ok but the end of the plastic closest to the crank split off but was still in place. You wouldn't hear an audible difference in this case and it wouldn't affect timing if it just had a split like mine did. Still, I replaced mine since it was "broken"
- Cam adjuster sprocket's pin hole wallows out. I don't think this part was ever upgraded, so again you'd want to check them both if you already had the engine out. For this check, you'd need the timing tools and the M14 or 16 triple square driver bit and a 24mm wrench.

So to answer your second question, you'd need to check those components while you have the engine out. If all the components checked out ok, you'd only be out some hardware (torque to yield bolts), some sealant, and a lend of the timing tools and the triple square bits if you don't have them.

[Nollywood]

The guides in the D3 4.2 V8 FSI, and the Q7 4.2 V8 FSI engines are the metal / improved ones. I believe they are the same as fitted to the high-revving 4.2 V8 FSI in the B7 RS4, R8 and the RS7.

[neilpaku]

After 18 months of "I'm glad they're not paying you to be a mechanic", the car is finally certified (emissions included!) and road-worthy. Runs very well, no smoke, and this after guzzling a quart per tankful. A/C replenished today and that blows cold and the heat is hot. Transmission changes smoothly with new synchros, everything worked out very well. Zero start-up rattle cold or hot. 159k - next oil change in 2k then I'll change to 5k, and also check the trans oil. Engine is A1.
However.... : ), the steering makes a funny sound when turning. Not the air-in-oil sound or a whine but more of a lumpy clunky sound as it moves through the range. Has always done it since I had the car (since 105k) but finally got around to asking if anyone had thoughts on what it might be. Could even be something snagging on the steering column shaft as it turns, but probably is something internal. Thoughts?

[VinnysS4]

I've experienced this. There are 3 bolts holding the steering rack in. They are a 12 point 10mm bolt head if I remember correctly. If you don't have one of these, save yourself the hassle and go buy one. One bolt is under the battery, one is over by the ecu, and the third is under the car directly above one of the front axels kind of hidden. Check these and if they are loose, add blue locktite and tighten them nice and snug. Another place to check would be the control arm bushings. These fail and can give you a clink while turning. Mine were bad when I got The car and I experienced a clunking when turning. They will be noticbly cracked. Good luck! You can check my build log for pictures of the bad bushings

[Dagear]

Just tore down engine to timing chains and removed, the timing chains.

BUT!!! I missed the intermediate step about removing the camshaft tools prior to inserting the crankshaft pin. I did have to back the crankshaft up slightly to get the crankshaft locking pin in,

Question, By not removing the camshaft locking tool, could I have damage anything?

[jakeoboy67]

Just tore down engine to timing chains and removed, the timing chains.

BUT!!! I missed the intermediate step about removing the camshaft tools prior to inserting the crankshaft pin. I did have to back the crankshaft up slightly to get the crankshaft locking pin in,

Question, By not removing the camshaft locking tool, could I have damage anything?

the crankshaft might have to be rotated very slightly to line up the crankshaft locking pin.
reason for this is : without oil pressure, the chains are loose and the timing is not "perfect" (ie. you can rotate the crankshaft a little without turning the cams)


WHEN the new components are in, just rotate the crank with the chains tight( use plastic wedges behind the tensioners) and check that both camshafts line up and look in the crankshaft locking pin hole with a mirror and a light to make sure everything lines up perfectly ( timing should be spot on with the chains tightened)

[Dagear]

I bought the schaben tools from ecs and didnt get the wedges from reading other posts i guess i need to get some

I was just concerned that i.damaged something by not removing the cam tools when i. Locked the crank

Sent from my SM-G920V using Audizine mobile app

[Dagear]

Next Decision Point.

Started pricing JHM, ECS and FCP parts, and have come up with some questions.

1. Given that original setup lasted 100K, and I likely won't drive this for another 100K, Thinking that FCP or OEM would be good enough. My mechanical adjusters look fine, one has the slightest start of wallowing.
2. I didn't mark all my chains so I have a 50/50 chance of not installing in the same direction is this a huge deal?
3. Thoughts on replacing cam adjuster sensors, Do they ever go bad? I see them listed in Joey's original list, but the timing kits don't include them.

[jakeoboy67]

Next Decision Point.

Started pricing JHM, ECS and FCP parts, and have come up with some questions.

1. Given that original setup lasted 100K, and I likely won't drive this for another 100K, Thinking that FCP or OEM would be good enough. My mechanical adjusters look fine, one has the slightest start of wallowing.
just make sure you get the metal backed middle guide, instead of platic (it's included in the JHM kits , but I'm not sure about others), if your adjusters are good, a kit similar to the JHM basic+ will be allright.
2. I didn't mark all my chains so I have a 50/50 chance of not installing in the same direction is this a huge deal?
YES , it's a big deal . I'd replace them. Some say reversing the direction of a used chain will result in the chain's self-destruction(it happened to somebody on here iirc) I would not try my luck on this
3. Thoughts on replacing cam adjuster sensors, Do they ever go bad? I see them listed in Joey's original list, but the timing kits don't include them.
They rarely go bad http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ommon-problems (#4 in that thread)

answered in bold

[Dagear]

Would younreplace these mechanical adjusters eraly signs of wear engine has 100k

Sent from my SM-G920V using Audizine mobile app

[MantanaB6]

Thats what im doing, getting looked at right away before major blow up. So many wildly different quotes its not even funny. Quotes as low as 4200 up to 12k. Talked to shop in MA that does these a good bit, they typically do for 5500. Seems these $8500+ quotes are doing overkill, possibly replacing lots of expensive parts that really don't need replaced. Only cause the engine is out. Plus add in another $1500 for hi-perf. clutch and flywheel while engine is out, very little extra labor to add on. Starting to think get fixed as cheap as possible and move on from this very expensive car.

I know this was a few months ago but what shop in MA did you talk to (if you don't mind me asking)? Was that quote for labor only or did it include parts?

[Dagear]

Update.

Went with the JHM Intermediate, as I didn't mark the rotation of 2 of the 4 chains, and comparing the Intermediate Plus to the basic kits from other I thought 1200 increase was justified given that it include 2 JHM sprockets and upgraded guide.

Reading through the installation steps the manual states to replace several bolts more than I see shown in the JHM kit. Anybody have comments on what bolts to replace? Audi and other sites state to replace all 4 cam bolts; however, the JHM kit only includes 2 bolts?

Where is the diamond disc located, when I looked the partnumber up at Audi it came back with no picture and $82 for price.

[neilpaku]

All four cam bolts. I ordered a lot of stuff from genuineaudiparts.com and various other places - on average they were the cheapest with the most reliable shipping date estimate. Diamond disc goes between the camshaft shoulder and the back of the mechanical adjuster, and is intended to lock the two together without needing splines or keyways. I reckon it's overthought and would have preferred splines, particularly if the splines were asymmetrical to avoid all this timing hoo-haa. It's why those bolts are torqued up to 90ftlb or whatever it is. $60 each I paid for them

[Terry.Reese]

I was asked to drop this in here for a parts list.

Parts list so far
FCP
1 Engine Timing Chain Guide VAG-079109513C $23.03
1 Engine Timing Chain Tensioner FEB-25425 $93.99
1 Engine Timing Chain Tensioner VAG-079109510M $44.09
1 Engine Timing Chain Tensioner FEB-25424 $88.99
1 Engine Timing Chain 50038634 $50.39
1 Engine Timing Chain 50038640 $62.99
1 Engine Timing Chain 50038635 $42.99
1 Engine Timing Chain 50038641 $56.99
1 Engine Timing Chain Tensioner FEB-25418 $36.99
1 Engine Timing Chain Tensioner VAG-079109507G $47.09
1 Engine Timing Chain Guide VAG-079109469AD $27.69
1 Engine Timing Chain Guide VAG-079109510E $39.49
1 Engine Timing Chain Guide VAG-079109514B $23.99
1 Engine Timing Chain Guide VAG-059109469F $35.79
Total: 674.99

JHM
Pair JHM Mechanical Cam Adjuster Repair Kit (PAIR) for B6-B7 S4, C5-allroad w/ 4.2L [JHM-079109087N-Kitpair] $750.00
Pair Block Off Plate Kit for SAI, Secondary Air Injection Plates (JHM) for B6-B7 S4, C5-allroad, C6-A6 w/ 4.2L V8 [JHM-B67S4SAIBlock] $29.95 +15 for gaskets 44.95
Total 794.95

ECS
2 Camshaft Hex Head Collared Bolt M12x1.25x125 Mfg Part # N91086201= 14.00
1 Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket - Cylinders 1-4 Mfg Part # 079109092B = 7.95
1 Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket - Cylinders 5-8 Mfg Part # 079109091B = 12.56
2 Camshaft Seal Mfg Part # 079109293C = 5.26
1 Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket - Left Mfg Part #079131120A = 10.36
1 Cam Chain Tensioner Gasket - Right Mfg Part # 079131120 = 13.02
1 Lower Timing Chain Tensioner Gasket - Center Mfg Part #079109139M = 4.32
10 Hexagon Socket Head Bolt - Mfg Part #N10156205 = 9.90
4 O-Ring 5x1.5 o-ring Mfg Part #N90638402 x4 = 4.00
Total: 81.37

Total 1551.31

[Terry.Reese]

My chain rattle on a cold start. last start was about 4 hours previously and engine didn't really get up to warm temps.

[Terry.Reese]

Where is the diamond disc located, when I looked the partnumber up at Audi it came back with no picture and $82 for price.

079105193 GAP 60.26 ECS(oem)78.78 ECS (rep)61.35 estimated..