Has anyone done a DIY brake pad replacement?

[S4DIT]

Ok, so I'm extremely sick of hearing the annoying brake squeal and I've decided to swap out my OEM pads for Hawk Ceramic pads. I've never replaced pads on any car, but I heard it was pretty easy so I want to give it a go.

I searched the forums but can't find DIY help on this topic. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

[John_JRP3]

front or rear? or both? your gonna need the caliper compressor tool for the rear as far as the front a c clamp should be sufficient

[NWS4Guy]

It's cake, very typical, the only catch is needing VCDS to retract the electronic brake on the rears so you don't screw the motor up, then using it again to cycle them closed once you have it back together (you can find this on ross-tech.com's site)

[S4DIT]

It's cake, very typical, the only catch is needing VCDS to retract the electronic brake on the rears so you don't screw the motor up, then using it again to cycle them closed once you have it back together (you can find this on ross-tech.com's site)

Shoot, no vag-com. There is always more to my S4 mods than meets the eye.

[skiracerblah]

Do you really need to plug in a laptop to swap out the rear pads?

[NWS4Guy]

Do you really need to plug in a laptop to swap out the rear pads?

No, you can totally destroy the servo for the electronic rear brakes if you want.

http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/adv...akeTechTip.pdf

[skiracerblah]

No, you can totally destroy the servo for the electronic rear brakes if you want.

http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/adv...akeTechTip.pdf

Ugh, this computerized stuff is getting out of control. Now you can't change out your brake pads without the use of a laptop....

[Sunstealer73]

Where is the cheapest place to buy the VAG-COM setup that works with the B8?

[S4DIT]

Where is the cheapest place to buy the VAG-COM setup that works with the B8?

There is one up for bid on eBay right now - current bid is $208 with 3 days left. Or, Ross-tech.com for $349.

[ChrisMT79]

Ugh, this computerized stuff is getting out of control. Now you can't change out your brake pads without the use of a laptop....

Its a 50k+ car with one or two more features than the cars had 10 years ago. If you can't shell out for a laptop and a cable I don't know what to tell ya. Well.. theres always the dealer.

[skiracerblah]

A bit off topic, can someone explain how to e-brake works on our cars. My impression on how i think it works, but i could be very wrong:
Hit button, brake pedal goes down slightly, some electric motors manually push in the rear caliper pistons.

Are my assumptions correct? Also, if a motor is pushing the pistons in manually, that means they're not hydralically activated and also no brake pressure is applied to the front brakes?

[skiracerblah]

Now, i'm waiting for someone to tell me i need VCDS to add wiper fluid to the car...

[Tails64]

I searched the forums but can't find DIY help on this topic. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Check this link: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4b8/msgs/16154.phtml

[100Daily]

Resurrecting this from the dead...

Does anyone happen to know the torque specs? I hate doing brakes by feel. I want to be sure.

[Merlin4979]

Bumping this thread from the dead. Based on what I've read, I can still change out the front pads and rotors without the VAG-COM, correct? I am getting ridiculously high numbers for a simple pad and rotor swap, and the only thing keeping me from being able to do the entire set of 4 is the lack of VAG-COM. I figured that I can cut the mechanic bill in half if I already do the fronts myself.

[isles1]

No VAGCOM needed for front pads and rotors. Note that you must remove the caliper bracket to remove the front rotors. Caliper bracket bolts should only be used once, so be sure to order new ones (Audi Part No. N91147601). You will need a 21mm socket (ideally 12pt); torque specs are 144 ft-lbs.

Plenty of other info here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-B8-DIY-brakes

[Merlin4979]

No VAGCOM needed for front pads and rotors. Note that you must remove the caliper bracket to remove the front rotors. Caliper bracket bolts should only be used once, so be sure to order new ones (Audi Part No. N91147601). You will need a 21mm socket (ideally 12pt); torque specs are 144 ft-lbs.

Plenty of other info here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-B8-DIY-brakes

Good to know. Thanks!

[infinkc]

Bumping this thread from the dead. Based on what I've read, I can still change out the front pads and rotors without the VAG-COM, correct? I am getting ridiculously high numbers for a simple pad and rotor swap, and the only thing keeping me from being able to do the entire set of 4 is the lack of VAG-COM. I figured that I can cut the mechanic bill in half if I already do the fronts myself.

ive posted in another brake pad thread, the rears you can do with a normal piston tool, you just screw it into the caliper like other euros. What the vag does is enable you to retract the piston with a c-clamp instead of screwing it in. I have done it both ways. You can also apply 12v to the e-brake motor and retract it that way. So the vagcom only makes life easier.

[iceboss23]

ive posted in another brake pad thread, the rears you can do with a normal piston tool, you just screw it into the caliper like other euros. What the vag does is enable you to retract the piston with a c-clamp instead of screwing it in. I have done it both ways. You can also apply 12v to the e-brake motor and retract it that way. So the vagcom only makes life easier.

You've posted it before but you're the only one saying this can be done while pretty much everyone else on here says that if you do this you run a high risk of destroying the e-brake motor and costing yourself several hundred dollars more. Not sure I want to take that risk with only anecdotal claims that it wont break something. That is of corse unless you have something solid to back up your claim...?

[4SHRNGS]

ive posted in another brake pad thread, the rears you can do with a normal piston tool, you just screw it into the caliper like other euros. What the vag does is enable you to retract the piston with a c-clamp instead of screwing it in. I have done it both ways. You can also apply 12v to the e-brake motor and retract it that way. So the vagcom only makes life easier.

You sir were are tremendous help with this post while we were installing all new front and rear brakes yesterday.

I shared your two options with my friend who was helping me and he grabbed a piston retraction tool at first and fortunately gave up on the piston retraction tool within 60 seconds, and grabbed a 12V auxiliary power source, ran it to the electronic rear parking brake motor on the rear caliper and it instantly retracted for us to complete the job.

I have a friend who can help me produce a "portable plug and play 12V power adapter" to retract the rear electronic brake piston and we can bulk manufacture them if there are enough people who would want one. We can probably build it for $60 or less and it would be a perfect tool for anyone who doesn't want to spend several hundred dollars for a VCS/OBDII cable. Maybe that should be a separate post to measure the level of interest.

[drob23]

Anyone know how this works with the new(er) versions of VCDS? They changed all the basic settings and I'm trying to solve a problem rather than change pads.



Here is my problem: it sounds like the rear calipers are slightly dragging on the rotors while my foot is off the brakes (driving around town on the gas), guessing this might be due to either how my tech installed rear rotors and pads (didn't use VCDS, said he was able to push back piston like infinkc says above) and how they weren't "re-adapted", or it's because I drove them so hard the rotors slightly warped (or damaged the rear caliper somehow). Really hoping the latter isn't the case. Was hoping to try some diagnosis myself with VCDS before taking the car back to the tech, or worse, to the dealership. No soft codes found with a scan. Thanks for the help, I'll probably call Ross Tech and figure out why they haven't updated their documentation with the new software builds of vcds, annoying to say the least.

I'm using both VCDS 12.12.3 and VCDS beta 14.8.

[MYFASTA4]

for rears , start lining change mode to retract and when done end lining change mode

[PsYkHoTiK]

for rears , start lining change mode to retract and when done end lining change mode

^^^ This (for the current version of VCDS)

[evil_O]

Maybe the brakes were not cylced properly when they were closed? If your mechanic did not have VCDS he could not have done:

"Step 4: Click [Done, Go Back], then [Basic Settings-04] and use
Group 010. This performs a function test on the EPB which will cycle
a number of times. When it is done, Basic Settings at the top of the
screen will show “ON”."

Check out this link. Try opening and then subsequently closing the e brake. Maybe they well get the calipers off the rotors (by them adjusting properly) and not drag anymore.

[drob23]

for rears , start lining change mode to retract and when done end lining change mode

So I'm assuming the "Start of Operations" would be the previous version channel 10 where the EPB cycles and perform some kind of adaptation? My hope is this step helps with my problem. If not, I'll take the pads off and see if there are any issues with caliper/piston sliding. Thanks for the reply.

Maybe the brakes were not cylced properly when they were closed? If your mechanic did not have VCDS he could not have done:

"Step 4: Click [Done, Go Back], then [Basic Settings-04] and use
Group 010. This performs a function test on the EPB which will cycle
a number of times. When it is done, Basic Settings at the top of the
screen will show “ON”."

Check out this link. Try opening and then subsequently closing the e brake. Maybe they well get the calipers off the rotors (by them adjusting properly) and not drag anymore.

I believe he just manually retracted the piston, so nothing happened with the parking brake. I'm hoping cycling the parking brake will work...I didn't have a working battery charger yesterday (my battery is also kind of low due to the blackvue dashcam with parking mode). Just ordered one so I'll try this on Wed.

[evil_O]

Yep my bad. Missed the newer version part. That link was apparently the older one. Still learning this VCDS stuff.

Let us know if that works.

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

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[SteveYem]

I am planning to swap out my front brake pads this coming weekend but have not found any meaningful DIY guides for doing so. I have replaced brake pads on my previous cars so I know the basics, but somewhere I read something about a "glue" that is used on the back side of one of the front brake pads. I'm assuming that would be the outboard pad (i.e. not the one in contact with the pistons) but I cannot find any details of said glue, or if it's even a real thing in the first place.

If there are indeed any special tools and/or materials required to do this job, please post them here so I can be prepared for the job before I start doing it this weekend. Thanks in advance!

EDIT - Nevermind, I searched but didn't scroll down far enough. I found this link: http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4b8/msgs/16154.phtml

If there are any tricks or tips I should know in addition to this tutorial, please advise!

[drob23]

I put that same disc brake quiet paste on the backing plates FWIW.

[brianc21]

Question for those that have done their own installs on pads. I have a full set of akebono pads and was going to just have the dealer to the install during my 25k service. Initially they made a stink because I wasn't replacing the rotors as well, but still accepted the install. Now today they call and say the akebonos are missing certain parts that would have come with the audi brake pad kit.

He referenced a few bolts for the front and some slide lock pieces for the rear. And of course could get those parts for $300. Ha.

Anyone come across this when doing your install? Did you reuse those parts, or did I need to buy them extra from the pads?

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

[dls11b8]

Question for those that have done their own installs on pads. I have a full set of akebono pads and was going to just have the dealer to the install during my 25k service. Initially they made a stink because I wasn't replacing the rotors as well, but still accepted the install. Now today they call and say the akebonos are missing certain parts that would have come with the audi brake pad kit.

He referenced a few bolts for the front and some slide lock pieces for the rear. And of course could get those parts for $300. Ha.

Anyone come across this when doing your install? Did you reuse those parts, or did I need to buy them extra from the pads?

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

Sounds like bull to me. I did akebono's on mine, and replaced pads and wear sensors. Re used everything else.

[SteveYem]

Sounds like bull to me. I did akebono's on mine, and replaced pads and wear sensors. Re used everything else.

Same here. I did not replace any hardware other than pads and the wear sensor up front. Brakes have worked fine and without any unusual noises or glitches ever since. I was not even aware that there were any parts that needed to be replaced, frankly.

[brianc21]

Same here. I did not replace any hardware other than pads and the wear sensor up front. Brakes have worked fine and without any unusual noises or glitches ever since. I was not even aware that there were any parts that needed to be replaced, frankly.

Copy that, thanks guys.

I told them to pound sand right when he said he could get the bolts for 300 bucks.

Sounds like bull to me. I did akebono's on mine, and replaced pads and wear sensors. Re used everything else.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

[SwankP3RF3ct10n]

Question for those that have done their own installs on pads. I have a full set of akebono pads and was going to just have the dealer to the install during my 25k service. Initially they made a stink because I wasn't replacing the rotors as well, but still accepted the install. Now today they call and say the akebonos are missing certain parts that would have come with the audi brake pad kit.

He referenced a few bolts for the front and some slide lock pieces for the rear. And of course could get those parts for $300. Ha.

Anyone come across this when doing your install? Did you reuse those parts, or did I need to buy them extra from the pads?

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

The stock pads do some with new bolts for the carriers and retaining clips for the pads, but it's not like you can't reuse what you have. Audi always chooses to replace the bolts on some stuff, but it's not always done. $300 for those 4 bolts is bullshit.

[brianc21]

The stock pads do some with new bolts for the carriers and retaining clips for the pads, but it's not like you can't reuse what you have. Audi always chooses to replace the bolts on some stuff, but it's not always done. $300 for those 4 bolts is bullshit.

Agreed. Thanks for the info.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

[davidmar]

Agreed. Thanks for the info.

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

Carista app available from Amazon will release rear brakes. Much cheaper than vag-com

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

[dls11b8]

Carista app available from Amazon will release rear brakes. Much cheaper than vag-com

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Really? Is that part of the latest update, because my carista didn't give me that option before.. I had to take the EPB servo off and screw it in by hand..

[brianc21]

Carista app available from Amazon will release rear brakes. Much cheaper than vag-com

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

I already have vag and am going to just do it myself now. Figured it would have been easier since car was going to be at the dealer....guess not.

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[dResign]

Question for those that have done their own installs on pads. I have a full set of akebono pads and was going to just have the dealer to the install during my 25k service. Initially they made a stink because I wasn't replacing the rotors as well, but still accepted the install. Now today they call and say the akebonos are missing certain parts that would have come with the audi brake pad kit.

He referenced a few bolts for the front and some slide lock pieces for the rear. And of course could get those parts for $300. Ha.

Anyone come across this when doing your install? Did you reuse those parts, or did I need to buy them extra from the pads?

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

So did you use new bolts, etc? or ?

[brianc21]

So did you use new bolts, etc? or ?

No. Just reused the stock hardware.

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