Has anyone done a DIY brake pad replacement?

[dls11b8]

Carista app available from Amazon will release rear brakes. Much cheaper than vag-com

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Really? Is that part of the latest update, because my carista didn't give me that option before.. I had to take the EPB servo off and screw it in by hand..

[davidmar]

Really? Is that part of the latest update, because my carista didn't give me that option before.. I had to take the EPB servo off and screw it in by hand..

Yes. They added a few months ago. I believe it's in a separate menu.

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[Quidproquo]

^ This.... Get Carista, and reuse original parts unless you replace the rotors (but I do suggest you replace the front rotors at least at 25K).

[minman26]

Actually with B8.5s you can't disable this. The option does nothing, and the hex values are meaningless. You have to depress the brake to enable or disable the EPB.

Not true. I recently disabled seatbelt and depress brake pedal and I just start car, put in gear, and step on the gas and EPB releases. 2014 S4

[brianc21]

Carista app available from Amazon will release rear brakes. Much cheaper than vag-com

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I already have vag and am going to just do it myself now. Figured it would have been easier since car was going to be at the dealer....guess not.

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[dResign]

Question for those that have done their own installs on pads. I have a full set of akebono pads and was going to just have the dealer to the install during my 25k service. Initially they made a stink because I wasn't replacing the rotors as well, but still accepted the install. Now today they call and say the akebonos are missing certain parts that would have come with the audi brake pad kit.

He referenced a few bolts for the front and some slide lock pieces for the rear. And of course could get those parts for $300. Ha.

Anyone come across this when doing your install? Did you reuse those parts, or did I need to buy them extra from the pads?

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So did you use new bolts, etc? or ?

[brianc21]

So did you use new bolts, etc? or ?

No. Just reused the stock hardware.

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[303 Spartan]

Bumping this thread again for some updated clarification. While my car was in for its 35k service, the dealer informed me that my pads are getting pretty worn and need replacing soon. In addition, the rotors are showing signs of wear and should be replaced at the same time. Initially I was planning on piecing everything together but then realized that ECS Tuning has complete pad/rotor/sensor replacement kits that I can choose from. I'm swaying towards a setup with the Akebono pads since I've heard a lot of great things about them. With this in mind, I'm thinking the following kit is my best option:

(Zimmerman rotors and Akebono Euro Ceramic pads)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...8k0698301mkt1/

The kit includes:
- Front & Rear Zimmerman Rotors
- Front & Rear Akebono Euro Ceramic Pads
- ECS Stainless Steel rotor set screws
- AGS Syl-Glide Silicone Brake lubricant packets
- Front brake pad wear sensor

A few questions:

1) for a daily driver that never sees track time, is there any real benefit to slotted rotors? If not, the above linked kit looks to be what I need. But I'm open to thoughts and/or other recommendations.

2) The kit comes with one front brake pad wear sensor. Is there any need for me to pickup a second sensor?

3) It looks like I also need the Carista Bluetooth Adapter from Amazon to properly disengage the rear parking brake through the Carista app. Is this accurate?

Here is a link to the Carista Bluetooth adapter on Amazon. Please let me know if this is not the right one:
https://www.amazon.com/Carista-Bluet.../dp/B00YVHGTBM

4) I've never messed with brake fluid before. Is this something I should change at the same time with my current mileage (35k)? If so, what is the most recommended brake fluid to go with.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4...Braking/Fluid/


5) Is there anything else I'm missing for this project? On my other cars I just used a C-clamp for the caliper pistons but I'm thinking about picking up the below caliper compression set for this job:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...ces/pbk-11pcs/

Is that kit overkill for this job?



I already have the Schwaben fluid extractor, which should handle the fluid flush. (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../011885sch01a/)


It seems the consenus is that replacing the brake pad clips and bolts are not necessary, so I'm planning on foregoing that. Let me know if I'm off base there.


Thanks for the help.

[Corradobrit]

Bumping this thread again for some updated clarification. While my car was in for its 35k service, the dealer informed me that my pads are getting pretty worn and need replacing soon. In addition, the rotors are showing signs of wear and should be replaced at the same time. Initially I was planning on piecing everything together but then realized that ECS Tuning has complete pad/rotor/sensor replacement kits that I can choose from. I'm swaying towards a setup with the Akebono pads since I've heard a lot of great things about them. With this in mind, I'm thinking the following kit is my best option:

(Zimmerman rotors and Akebono Euro Ceramic pads)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...8k0698301mkt1/

The kit includes:
- Front & Rear Zimmerman Rotors
- Front & Rear Akebono Euro Ceramic Pads
- ECS Stainless Steel rotor set screws
- AGS Syl-Glide Silicone Brake lubricant packets
- Front brake pad wear sensor

A few questions:

1) for a daily driver that never sees track time, is there any real benefit to slotted rotors? If not, the above linked kit looks to be what I need. But I'm open to thoughts and/or other recommendations.

2) The kit comes with one front brake pad wear sensor. Is there any need for me to pickup a second sensor?

3) It looks like I also need the Carista Bluetooth Adapter from Amazon to properly disengage the rear parking brake through the Carista app. Is this accurate?

Here is a link to the Carista Bluetooth adapter on Amazon. Please let me know if this is not the right one:
https://www.amazon.com/Carista-Bluet.../dp/B00YVHGTBM

4) I've never messed with brake fluid before. Is this something I should change at the same time with my current mileage (35k)? If so, what is the most recommended brake fluid to go with.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_S4...Braking/Fluid/


5) Is there anything else I'm missing for this project? On my other cars I just used a C-clamp for the caliper pistons but I'm thinking about picking up the below caliper compression set for this job:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...ces/pbk-11pcs/

Is that kit overkill for this job?



I already have the Schwaben fluid extractor, which should handle the fluid flush. (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../011885sch01a/)


It seems the consenus is that replacing the brake pad clips and bolts are not necessary, so I'm planning on foregoing that. Let me know if I'm off base there.


Thanks for the help.

Good questions and looking forward to hearing the replies. My brake fluid was replaced as part of the 35K service. Double check if your's has been done too. btw i had Audicare.

[Krusty]

Good questions and looking forward to hearing the replies. My brake fluid was replaced as part of the 35K service. Double check if your's has been done too. btw i had Audicare.

Here is what you need. Use the app to unlock the rear brakes.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...or-Replacement

[brs2c]

I just did my brakes (2 piece ECS, Redstuff pads). Really just have 2 thoughts for you to co sider.
1.) In the rear there are 3 torx bolts that join the piston to the motor. If you seperate these, there is a torx on the back of the piston that will retract the piston. (Carista/VAG COM is easier, nut in case you wanna save a little bit)
2.) You may want to search Amazon. There was a member who found a bunch of good deals on rotor and pad packages.

[303 Spartan]

Good questions and looking forward to hearing the replies. My brake fluid was replaced as part of the 35K service. Double check if your's has been done too. btw i had Audicare.

Great call. I'll confirm if the brake fluid was changed during the service. I also have Audicare.

I just did my brakes (2 piece ECS, Redstuff pads). Really just have 2 thoughts for you to co sider.
1.) In the rear there are 3 torx bolts that join the piston to the motor. If you seperate these, there is a torx on the back of the piston that will retract the piston. (Carista/VAG COM is easier, nut in case you wanna save a little bit)
2.) You may want to search Amazon. There was a member who found a bunch of good deals on rotor and pad packages.

Thanks for the heads up on the torx bolts. That does seem like a good option. However, I've been wanting to pickup a proper OBD2 tool to allow me to check codes whenever they pop up. So I'll probably go the Carista route anyway.

I'll expand my search to Amazon. I just get nervous going that route with the fear that I'll end up with incorrect parts.

[whiped]

1. Strictly cosmetic for daily driving.
2. There is only one wear sensor on our car and it is on the drivers front caliper.
3. You can release it electronically with VCDS/Carista/etc or manually. (Check the A4 forum or youtube for a diy)
4. You can buy a test kit for your brake fluid to test water content. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Fluid-T.../dp/B005HVG4GQ
If you do replace the brake fluid any DOT4 fluid should work, I like RBF 600: https://www.amazon.com/Motul-8068HL-.../dp/B004LEYJO4
5. Way overkill, I'd go to your local auto parts store and pickup something like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VX8AA...SXw/s-l300.jpg
I used a C-clamp for the front and that for the rear.

BTW, the stock brake pads are glued on and can be a bitch to remove.

I'd pick up some brake cleaner, penetrating-oil and brake quiet if you don't have it already. Removing the front caliper carrier bolts is a PITA. Better bring your hulk arms.

[303 Spartan]

^ This is excellent info. Thank you!

[S4'ed]

Clarification : Only the front outer pads are glued on to the caliper, from the Audi factory. When you pry them off, make sure the thin sheetmetal shim is removed with the pad. When I did mine, the shim stayed glued to the caliper, and broke free from the pad backing plate.
With solvent, clean the back of the new pad backing plate, and the mating surface of the caliper, then apply a little bit of CRC "Disc Brake Quiet" glue and install the outer pad into the caliper.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

You don't need to loosen the supertight caliper bracket mounting bolts unless you are changing the rotor/disc.

[SDV325]

1. Strictly cosmetic for daily driving.
2. There is only one wear sensor on our car and it is on the drivers front caliper.
3. You can release it electronically with VCDS/Carista/etc or manually. (Check the A4 forum or youtube for a diy)
4. You can buy a test kit for your brake fluid to test water content. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Fluid-T.../dp/B005HVG4GQ
If you do replace the brake fluid any DOT4 fluid should work, I like RBF 600: https://www.amazon.com/Motul-8068HL-.../dp/B004LEYJO4
5. Way overkill, I'd go to your local auto parts store and pickup something like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/VX8AA...SXw/s-l300.jpg
I used a C-clamp for the front and that for the rear.

BTW, the stock brake pads are glued on and can be a bitch to remove.

I'd pick up some brake cleaner, penetrating-oil and brake quiet if you don't have it already. Removing the front caliper carrier bolts is a PITA. Better bring your hulk arms.

Bah, get a 18" breaker bar and those carrier bolts come off like butter.

Highly recommend penetrating fluid for the rotors though. If your car see's snow/salt then the rotors can be a bitch to get off. Went to town with a hammer and did this


I didn't use PB Blaster and was a nightmare to get off. After giving the inside a good spray, came off after a few wacks.

[brs2c]

After some ear ringing hits with a hammer, I decided to change my tact. Might have been overly aggressive of me, but one good smack to the bottom half of the rotor with a sledge hammer, and it pops right off.

[hiwasss]

Anyone k now where I can get the caliper bracket bolts besides ECS? I didn't mind the set is $42 something but $9 shipping for a few bolts is nuts.

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[DeltaHawk60]

...but $9 shipping for a few bolts is nuts.

I see what you did there!

[khahn]

On the front right brake pads, there’s a wear sensor that does not have wiring attached. Does anyone know the part number?


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[sacandagaD]

On the front right brake pads, there’s a wear sensor that does not have wiring attached. Does anyone know the part number?


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There is only one active wear sensor on the front, but since pads are not side specific, AFAIK they all have a spot to clip them into.

[theweebabyseamus]

What are guys setting the caliper bolts at? Torque spec is 144ft lbs but that seems much for reusing hardware. Just setting to Guttentight?

[whiped]

What are guys setting the caliper bolts at? Torque spec is 144ft lbs but that seems much for reusing hardware. Just setting to Guttentight?

You're right by the way, 196 Nm.

I reused by bolts the first time I did my brakes. I got new ones this time. They aren't stretch bolts so I don't think they really need to be replaced.

[theweebabyseamus]

You're right by the way, 196 Nm.

I reused by bolts the first time I did my brakes. I got new ones this time. They aren't stretch bolts so I don't think they really need to be replaced.

Thanks, that's what I was hoping. I don't see any TTY-ness so im guessing its just rec to replace because its such high torque and the load that's placed on that area with the heat it sees.

[jonwoods]

Always torque bolts to spec. For small bolts, hand tight is too tight. For large ones, it’s usually not tight enough. ( Insert comment from some guy who thinks he’s a human torque wrench....)

I seem to recall it’s next to impossible to get a large torque wrench on those though... When that’s the case guttentite plus a little blue loctite if the bolt is safety critical.

[vtbert3]

Anybody have issues with rattling aftermarket front pads? I got the ECS Stoptech slotted and drilled service kit and the front pads rattle bad over bumps. Even put CRC Brake Quiet on them, no luck.

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[MME1122]

For front brakes, I reused all my hardware. I used an impact to take everything off so that was easy. You can turn the wheel to get enough access to fit a larger torque wrench for reinstallation, or a big breaker bar for removing everything without an impact.
I definitely recommend penetrating oil or at the very least WD40 for getting the rotors off the hubs, I needed a hammer as well. I cleaned up the hubs with a wire wheel before putting new rotors on. I highly recommend this, since it'll be easier to get wheels on and off too when the hub is clean.
The stock pads are glued but aren't too hard to remove, there's a notch for fitting a small screwdriver/pry tool. My pads had some glue holding them to the piston as well, not just the caliper side. So be careful removing that, break the glue loose first so you don't move the piston around too much.
I reinstalled with a ceramic based brake lube, no noise/vibration issues. I went with drilled/slotted rotors from Adams mainly for looks, and there is a little bit of noise associated with that but you really need to be listening for it. If I turn the radio and AC off, I will notice it. Otherwise, you can't hear it.
For reference, I went with Hawk HPS 5.0 pads. Definitely less initial bite but after week I got used to it and actually like it better now. You can get smoother braking, more control, etc. and the absolute braking power is just as good or better than stock.

For the rear, I used the carista adapter and app to release the parking brake. For the price it's worth it to have, it has a lot of functionality. I replaced the caliper carrier bolts, but not the actual caliper bolts as they didn't appear to be TTY. Audi recommends replacing them anyway. I couldn't fit my impact or large breaker bar in there since you can't turn the wheels for more clearance, so the caliper carrier bolts were a real pain. I had a little clearance for my torque wrench so reinstalling wasn't easy but it was doable. I used a c-clamp on the rear as well to retract the caliper, but you need to be careful not to crack the plastic housing for the servo. A handful of extensions/adapters is useful since there is limited clearance for a socket on the carrier bolts. I reused the spring clips as well since new ones were hard to get at the time, no issues. I just cleaned and lubed them.

I also had 45K miles when I did all this. All pads were shot, rotors had a decent amount of wear as well but I'm not sure if they could've been reused or not. I got my car CPO with 21K miles on it so I'm not sure if everything was original or if anything was replaced during the CPO process.
Hope this helps a bit =]

[theweebabyseamus]

Good info, how much did you need to clean off the hubs and how easy was it? Total time for the job?