here are the two options :
Why do those bolts even need removed? I don't see the need. There is a much easier way. Loosen and remove snub mount arm. Loosen the four total mount nuts. Jack up engine from below, using a wood block so you don't pierce the oil pan. It goes up further than you'd think; almost back to the firewall.
Remove mounts. Replace with new. Have helper hold mounts while you slowly let engine back down in to place. Be very careful not to squash helper's fingers. Hand tighten mounts and replace and hand tighten snub arm. Start engine. Rev a few times and let idle for a few minutes. Then, tighten all hand-tightened nuts/bolts to torque specs.
Done and done.
or
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-DIY?p=1740775
then this guy said this:
Just a quick addendum for those with a
3 Litre V6 engine.
Thank you Yoogene83 et al for a great descriptive write up, which was a good starting place for attempting this project on the V6.
Yoogene83's method of entire motor mount bracket removal is the only method that will work for our cars as the engine simply will not raise high enough to get the mounts out any other way (the engine also does not raise high enough for easy replacement of our snub mount either, removal of the front bumper is the only way to do this, then remove the 6 torx bolts that are at the back of the front bumper main mounts, then remove the 2 torx bolts on the sides which allows the bottom of the front bumper frame to swing out and allow sufficient space to insert the new snub mount, bracket and cup) fml!
You cannot access the top motor mount nuts from above and to get sufficient space to work in and access the top nut from below, you need to remove the two 10mm bolts that hold together the two pieces of exhaust pipe/muffler heat shroud above the motor mount, once the two bolts are out carefully fold up the two pieces of heat shroud to increase the working space above the top nut.
You definitely need a short length 1/4 inch ratchet drive with a 13mm socket to undo and remove the top motor mount nut, as the top motor mount bracket has 'ears' on the side for strength which precludes the use of an ordinary spanner/wrench as there is no lateral space for it to rotate.
WARNING: Do not start this procedure unless you have 2 jacks, one is required to simply hold up your motor whilst you remove the bottom bracket and motor mount, the other jack being required to lift up the front subframe (which will drop down after the removal of the bottom bracket) or simply hold it in place, in order to replace the 3 18mm bolts that hold on the bottom bracket.
Why they make the bolts on the top and bottom of the motor mount so long is an absolute mystery to me; must be sadistic vegetarians? Also, buy plenty of blue thread lock and check the durometer of your mounts before fitting them with the 034 website, I ordered track, they sent me street!
Now I know he is talking about v6 B6's but does this apply to B7???
Originally Posted by mr shickadance
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