replaced the n80 valve - no CEL, smoother idle, no vibrations when in D etc

[bryonm]

You got the one made for a TT, I am 99% sure of it. Did it even have the option to use the stock mount to attach it to the manifold?

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[jaycurn]

What did you guys use to get the vac lines off the valve? Did you heat them with a heat gun or what? Such an easy job made so difficult by dropping a hose clamp down in the engine bay someplace after removing one of the oem one-time clamps and not being able to get the damn vacuum lines off the valve. And it looks soooo easy!

[shiro1745]

What did you guys use to get the vac lines off the valve? Did you heat them with a heat gun or what? Such an easy job made so difficult by dropping a hose clamp down in the engine bay someplace after removing one of the oem one-time clamps and not being able to get the damn vacuum lines off the valve. And it looks soooo easy!

I use one of these guys, it's easier using the second or fourth, slide it between the rubber hose and plastic nipple and moved it around it so you brake it loose, twisting the hose back and forth while pulling helps a lot and you can use a bit of WD40 too.

The one time use clamps I remove completely before removing the hose.

[jaycurn]

I use one of these guys, it's easier using the second or fourth, slide it between the rubber hose and plastic nipple and moved it around it so you brake it loose, twisting the hose back and forth while pulling helps a lot and you can use a bit of WD40 too.

The one time use clamps I remove completely before removing the hose.

Thank you sir! I will give it a try with the cotter pin puller tomorrow... Didn't have much time tonight anyway. I also took the one-time clamps all the way off... but I dropped one down in the engine compartment someplace below the valve and can't for the life of my find it with a magnet or a light.

[funky_snowman]

The valve twisted off pretty easily. Would not pull off, but loosened quickly when I tried twisting the valve after breaking the adhesion on the barbs with a small flathead screw driver. Pretty straightforward. The the stock clamps are terrible, however, as we all know. Mine was fine, but its easy, cheap enough, and enough failure prone that it's hard to justify not doing it every now and then as preventative maintenance I guess. Just remember to have some decent hose clamps on hand, which is really a good idea in general.

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[jpostman314]

ok so my CEL is throwing codes P0455 and P0441 (i know what they mean) but doesn't seem to have any of the symptoms mentioned in the above posts so my question is would replacing the N80 valve get rid of both codes or just the incorrect flow code? also does anyone know of a way to simply delete this programming from the cars computer to get rid of my cel as im not experiencing any issues from these codes?

[JohnnyTooBad]

I just replaced my N80 for the first time, with 99k mi on the car. My car was throwing P0455, P0171 and P0441 codes. After reading this thread and knowing the issues with getting the old one out, I bought the valve at the local Audi dealership for $23 (the closer VW dealership wanted $30, or you could do $13 + $8 shipping from ECS). I also bought 2 clamps for $1 ea from the dealership.

To get the old clamps off, I just used a dremmel with a cutoff wheel. About 10 seconds to cut each one off. Just cut the top piece so you don't damage the hose.

To get the hose off, first I used a small flat screwdriver and pushed the hose away from the end just a bit, then I used bent nose needle nose pliers. Stuck the points of the pliers on either side of the end of the hose, and used the curve against the valve to push the hose off. It took about 5 minutes per hose. I used a small flat wire cutter to crimp the clamps. A tile nipper would also work well if it'll fit in there. These little flush cutting wire cutters look just like a mini tile nipper.

The whole job, from opening the hood to closing the hood and being cleaned up, took about a half hour. And I'm NOT a mechanic.

I cleared my codes, and will see if any of them come back. But I drove it around the neighborhood, and it does seem to idle better and not bog down when slowing to a stop or at idle for a while. One of my biggest idling issues was when the car was only half warmed up, driving out of the neighborhood, then stopping at a traffic light. It would bog down pretty bad for a couple of seconds and run rough. I also had a bit of an issue starting the car after filling it with gas. Especially when it wasn't fully warmed up. I'm hoping this fixes things.