Quote Originally Posted by doublezero30 View Post
glad to hear you fixed it fletcher! another way to bleed the system is to just fill the resivoir with coolant, leave the cap off, and let the car run and get up to opporating temp. when it gets up there, the fans will start and thermastat allows the coolant to flow. keep the resivior at the full mark while its cycling through. youll also want to monitor your temp gauge to be positive you dont overheat. you can hold the rpms at about 2000 to help it get up to temp faster. do this for about 20-30 minutes and you should be golden. thats how a tech at my work did it for me when my turbo burnt through a coolant hose that was installed incorrectly.
I am assuming this should be done with the hvac completely off...Tried this process again this morning and had a lot of coolant bubbling out. Still only luke warm air with econ and recirc on. Here is a list of what has been done. Flushed system twice over the summer, just changed timing belt/coolant pump a month ago, tried filing the core directly like old guy stated, very hot lower hose only warm upper hose coming from heater core, tried the bleeder valve and a whole bunch of G12! I have yet to check the flap motor due to these codes
3 Faults Found:
01274 - Air Flow Flap Positioning Motor (V71)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00604 - Potentiometer Positioning Motor for Air Flow Flap (G113)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
01592 - Air Quality Sensor (G238)
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent
but I would think there should be heat since I get a change from cold to luke warm. But I also hear a clicking sound behind the vents that happens about every second or two. So could it be a bad heater core or sensor motor or still a pesky air bubble? Sorry for bringing this up again and again, but my hands were pretty cold when we had temps in the teens a while back.