Fixed my "no heat" problem.

[dewey527]

Wow...so I spent an hour trying different methods and finally have heat <crosses fingers> This method was bleeding from the hose that comes from the firewall with the coolant cap off, coolant cap on, heat on, heat off, tried from the bleeder screw, shop vac and just about got the 5lb sledge...What finally worked for me was having the coolant cap closed, hvac completely off, hold rpm around 2-3k for 30-60 seconds, run to the hose and slightly pull back until bubbles then coolant. Did this 15 times before I coolant only came out!!!!!!!!!! Did not drive the car afterwards since I was scared of the results but will post tomorrow.

[JMRQuattro]

Wow...so I spent an hour trying different methods and finally have heat <crosses fingers> This method was bleeding from the hose that comes from the firewall with the coolant cap off, coolant cap on, heat on, heat off, tried from the bleeder screw, shop vac and just about got the 5lb sledge...What finally worked for me was having the coolant cap closed, hvac completely off, hold rpm around 2-3k for 30-60 seconds, run to the hose and slightly pull back until bubbles then coolant. Did this 15 times before I coolant only came out!!!!!!!!!! Did not drive the car afterwards since I was scared of the results but will post tomorrow.

Did you fix a coolant leak at any point leading up to this? Because if you had that big of an air bubble in there it's probably going to reform again unless you make sure you don't have any leaks.

[dewey527]

Did you fix a coolant leak at any point leading up to this? Because if you had that big of an air bubble in there it's probably going to reform again unless you make sure you don't have any leaks.

Just finished a timing belt a few weeks back. This has been an on going issue for close to two years...flushed the system last summer, had my indy shop flush and change t-stat. So I am stumbed.

[JMRQuattro]

Just finished a timing belt a few weeks back. This has been an on going issue for close to two years...flushed the system last summer, had my indy shop flush and change t-stat. So I am stumbed.

You really should check to see if you have another air bubble.

I checked online for more information about the flaps, and the code you have is for the air flow flap positioning motor (V71) which directs air flow to either the defroster, center vents, or floor vents. So that wouldn't necessarily effect your heat. And a potentiometer controls voltage (but rarely more than a watt) and is used to adjust the level of analog signals. But with respect to your heater core, I don't know exactly what the potentiometer controls. But it would make sense that your heat doesn't work if it controls temperature, but it's also likely that it doesn't because apparently there is a temperature control flap positioning motor (V68) and you don't have a code for that one.

Old Guy, do you know what the potentiometer controls?? Is it just the positioning of the flaps?

[old guy]

Old Guy, do you know what the potentiometer controls?? Is it just the positioning of the flaps?

Flap position only. The heater core circulation doesn't change, just the air being directed through the core. I'm pretty sure that the G113 is the one that directs flow between the A/C evaporator coils and the heater core. I will check the Bentley tonight.

[old guy]

Flap position only. The heater core circulation doesn't change, just the air being directed through the core. I'm pretty sure that the G113 is the one that directs flow between the A/C evaporator coils and the heater core. I will check the Bentley tonight.

I was wrong. the G113 position sensor controls the flap motor as SeatownB6 pointed out. Probably not related to your no heat condition. I assume you are getting plenty of air flow through the vents, just no heat. correct? If so I'm back to thinking you still have air present in the heater circuit.