Real Quick

[Zaloo]

Tried looking and can't find a clear pic - where is the crank breather/case for a tiptronic? Is it the silver cylinder closer in front of the ABS module (going from rear of engine bay to the front). Doing the check valve/vacuum removal to clean the engine bay up some. There is a drawing on another thread but wanted a visual pic to go by so I don't screw something up. Almost done!

TIA

[bigblue]

Your trying to get rid of that line too eh? our car doesn't have that breather from block... already tried... I pulled everything out and the put some back in because I kept getting the abs an traction light because something wasnt getting enough vacuum

[Zaloo]

Can you just keep that line in that tees off from the brake booster and have the other opening going to the manifold? Would a catch can fix the crank breather or did you connect it somewhere else?

TIA

[bigblue]

Its auto so you can't run line to the manifold... the manuals can do that back between shifts they let off the gas and it builds a slight vacuum for a second whereas our tip cars stay in boost between shifts.

[Zaloo]

well damn, what lines did you keep? Any other way around than to put back together?

Thanks!

[bigblue]

You have to keep the suction jet pump, pull the check valve out that has a "T" in it and replace it with a regular check valve and your good to pull all the stuff that goes to the vacuum canister and the n112/n249

[bigblue]

Pretty much you pull number 15 out and replace it with another check valve

[Zaloo]

great info - thanks again. For the "T" coming off the valve cover to the right it goes to the atmosphere but the right supposed to go to the crank breather? Where does that connect to? Do you have a pic of what you did?

[AudiA4Turbo22]

wait why? I have a tiptronic and I haven't had my suction jet pump nor any other VAC lines for 6 months.

[Zaloo]

^^^^^ Info I am looking for! If you dont mind providing what you did - The "T" off the valve cover and where to route since we have no crank breather - almost done so just trying to get the car running before the work week begins.

[AudiA4Turbo22]

I used the T and I took the tube off my SAI and ran it off the left side of that connector down by the transmission as a vent.

I just plugged my Brake Booster straight into my manifold. However, I suggest you put a check valve in between.

[Zaloo]

Thanks - I have a hard line coming from the silver cylinder that manuals dont have into the brake booster line - you keep that in I assume? For the T off the valve did you plug one of the outlets then? You have 1 going to the bottom to vent so where did you have the other going?

Thanks again

[AudiA4Turbo22]

I left the metal T alone.

[bigblue]

Wait kirk, so you pulled all the suction jet shit out and just have a hose going from the brake booster to the manifold and a hose going from the brake booster to the vacuum pump for a backup source of vacuum. And all the lines that go to the vacuum reservoir? I kept getting an abs light... the same light I get if I unhook my boost gauge with the car running and it loses vacuum for a second.

[Zaloo]

What do you do with the right side of the T off the valve cover? Left vents - what about right side?

TIA

[bigblue]

Why not just leave the crankcase vent alone... Its an important part of the system as its been mentioned in the simplification thread. Go ahead and pull every single line. Also kirk I thought that the brake booster has its own check valve built in so installing one in between the booster and the manifold wouldn't be needed correct?

[Zaloo]

^^ Understand that but the pic above shows it going to the crank case but we don't have that. Honestly I got a little happy trigger taking this shit out and don't remember where the right side of the T off the VC goes...So damn myself - Where did it connect to?

[bigblue]

Theres a crank thing it goes into on our newer autos... its different than older manuals tho. look towards the back of the motor under the intake runners, theres a black thing with a bunch of vacuum lines an shit coming off of it.

[Zaloo]

I'll look when I get home - pics by chance? I feel like a fucking newb on this but dont want to connect this shit ass backwards and cause issues. To make it worthwhile I will post pics...

[bigblue]

I just re-yanked most of the hoses. I pulled the hose from the n112/n249 to the vacuum reservoir.

Then I pulled the hose from the TIP to the suction jet pump.

Then I pulled the suction jet pump completely. I used the hose from the big port on the side of the manifold to go to the hard line that goes into the hose that splits to go to the brake booster.

[AudiA4Turbo22]

Wait kirk, so you pulled all the suction jet shit out and just have a hose going from the brake booster to the manifold and a hose going from the brake booster to the vacuum pump for a backup source of vacuum. And all the lines that go to the vacuum reservoir? I kept getting an abs light... the same light I get if I unhook my boost gauge with the car running and it loses vacuum for a second.

Basically.

Except I got a CEL stating Brake Booster malfunction. All you would need is to run a check valve in between.

[AudiA4Turbo22]

I just re-yanked most of the hoses. I pulled the hose from the n112/n249 to the vacuum reservoir.

Then I pulled the hose from the TIP to the suction jet pump.

Then I pulled the suction jet pump completely. I used the hose from the big port on the side of the manifold to go to the hard line that goes into the hose that splits to go to the brake booster.

EXACTLY what I did. If you get a CEL for the brake booster let me know.

[bigblue]

Did you get a cel for the brake booster? I kept getting it and I knew there was a leak somewhere so today I just said fuck it an pulled everything out. Too much shit jumbled in that area to figure it out. I was gonna try an get some 1/2" hose and run it directly to the booster but then I realized that the hardline's ends move around so I just turned them so I could hook it up to that hose and it was fine. Haven't driven it yet but I'll see in the morning.

[Zaloo]

Pics of what either of you did? Thanks for all the advice thus far

[AudiA4Turbo22]

car doesn't run. lol

[bigblue]

car doesn't run. lol

Well I knew that... But that's only been since September right? You have tested it right? Lol I got the balls to rip the suction jet stuff out because you said you did it.

[AudiA4Turbo22]

No what I meant is:

My car is not running and is in the shop so I can't snap a picture. The removal was done 6 months ago on my car and I loved it.

[bigblue]

Ok thank god lol. I was dreading my ride to work tomorrow morning.

[Zaloo]

Is the housing right above the oil filter where you connect the right side of the T off the valve cover? I got everything else...

[bigblue]

Yes. Thats the crank breather on the later models. When I was first doing this I kept asking random audi owners if I could look under their hood to see where it was because I was so confused lol.

[Zaloo]

Thanks to both you and Kirk - thread consisted of a whopping 3 people lol.

Thanks again

[bigblue]

Lol thats because no one likes us tip owners. My car isn't fast but I still beat all the GTIs and subarus... minus the big turbo ones of course.

[bigblue]

So upon further driving, the vacuum pump freaks out as soon as you start driving and you can hear the relay clicking inside the engine bay which is what I've been hearing. But the good news is that its been doing it for months and the abs light has been coming on which tells me that there was a leak somewhere in the system all along. It just wasn't doing it all crazy like its been since I removed all that. Kirk, did you just run a 1/2" line from the manifold directly to the booster and leave the pump out of the equation? Did you unhook the plug to the pump? And should I make a cut in the line and put one of those large 1/2" barb check valves inline?

[AudiA4Turbo22]

what pump are u talking about?

[Zaloo]

the hard line that goes into the Y from the brake booster - it goes to a silver clyinder right in front of the coolant res

[bigblue]

The vacuum pump that only tip cars have. Located in front of the coolant.

[bigblue]

So I tried a few different ways to fix the problem of the air pump coming on. I put a check valve in line... do not do this as it will make the brake pedal stiff as hell and it won't work.

Then I tried just unhooking the pump but the stupid relay still keeps clicking under the steering wheel. So I ran a 1/2" hose from the mani to the booster and got rid of that y hose completely.

I'm going to investigate which relay it is that clicks and pull that bitch out because its the only way to make it stop... no harm in pulling it as it only operates the pump. I'll let you know which one it is when I find out.

[old guy]

So I tried a few different ways to fix the problem of the air pump coming on. I put a check valve in line... do not do this as it will make the brake pedal stiff as hell and it won't work.

It sounds like you put the check valve in backwards. Normally I don't like to get involved with issues relating to "pulling all that stuff out" but in your case I feel it is necessary because it sounds to me like you are about to make your car extremely unsafe. If you have no vacuum source other than the manifold you could potentially make a 0 to high speed run and then need to hit your brakes hard. Guess what? You will have no initial vacuum assist for your brakes (other than the little amount in the brake booster itself) since the automatic transmission will keep your manifold under boost the whole time. Not good.

Try this: find the three way check valve that you ripped out and attach it to the manifold port closest to the brake booster. Be sure the flow is toward the manifold. Run a line from the small nipple to the vacuum reservoir located underneath the front left fender. Attach your "Y" connector to the large nipple. One leg of the "Y" attaches to the brake booster, the other leg attaches to your vacuum pump.

This arrangement will allow you to store vacuum in the vacuum reservoir. This should keep your vacuum pump from cycling all the time and will provide a vacuum source for your brake booster after a continuous run.

[bigblue]

Ok, so what you're saying is that I should reinstall the hose on the brake booster that is a "Y"

Then I should hook the pump back up to that "Y"

Then reinstall the three way valve on the nipple closest to the booster and hook the smaller nipple to the reservoir. And the other connection hooks up to the other leg of the "Y" hose

If you don't want to reply to this thats fine, but thank you much for the input. I actually removed all of this stuff because there was a leak somewhere in the giant bundle of vacuum stuff that kept causing my abs light to come on thus disabling my traction control. Any input would be lovely as I am only trying to figure out how to get the car safe for the winter.

[old guy]

Reinstall the hose on the brake booster that is a "Y"

Hook the pump back up to that "Y"

Then reinstall the three way valve on the intake manifold nipple closest to the booster and hook the smaller nipple on the three way valve to the reservoir. And the other connection hooks up to the other leg of the "Y" hose.

.

Sounds about right. It really doesn't matter which manifold nipple you use. The one closest to the brake booster should be the most convenient. Be sure you mount the three way valve so that you can blow through the valve into the manifold. The small nipple should be on the side of the valve away from the manifold. Doing it this way the check valve plus the vacuum canister should help you maintain a more consistent vacuum source to the brake booster. It should also help with the vacuum pump constantly kicking on as it struggles to maintain a vacuum. I'm a little doubtful that a vacuum leak is what caused your ABS problem but if it was because of low vacuum to the brake booster this should help.

Edit: There were two hard plastic vacuum lines running from underneath your intake manifold to underneath the left front fender. One serviced the LDP. The other one serviced the N249/N112 and connected to the vacuum reservoir. Be sure you connect the correct one to the small nipple on the check valve.

I should also note that I have not seen this done before, but it certainly works in my head! Let me know if it cures you problem.