Front control arms torque specs?

[jimbro]

I don't have a bentleys and I'll be changing out my control arms this weekend. Does anyone have the torque specs for all the front control arms and tie rod ends?

TIA

[jimbro]

bump, are the b5 torque specs the same as b6? I found a website that has the specs for b5.

[Greedo]

75 Nm Engine Bay Bolts (f)
40 Nm Upper Control Are Bolt
90 Nm (66 lb ft) Lower Shock Clevis Bolt (f)
60 Nm Shock Shaft Nut (f)
35 Nm Upper shock mount to body (r)
160 Nm + ¼ turn Lower shock eye to lower control arm (r)

That's all I've been able to find

[Allhailpoptart]

In case you need it 1 Nm == .7375 lb/ft. I still have a torque wrench kicking around without the Nm measurement on it. Eventually you get good at doing the math.

[jimbro]

Thanks guys. Anyone else got the rest?

[rollaphillie]

1) 75 Nm
5) 7 Nm
7) 45 Nm
8) 40 Nm
12) 70 Nm + an additional 180 degree turn
14) 110 Nm
17) 10 Nm
20) 90 Nm
22) 55 Nm
23) 110 Nm + an additional 90 degrees
24) 40 Nm + an additional 90 degrees
26) 40 Nm + an additional 90 degrees
28) 70 Nm + an additonal 180 degrees
29) 75 Nm
37) 50 Nm + an additional 90 degrees
38) 50 Nm

[rollaphillie]

^ all those torque specs are from the bentley front suspension overview. The tie rod ends aren't shown in the diagram but #5 and #7 are the tie rod end hardware.

[jimbro]

Big thanks phillie

[diagnosticator]

The suspension pivot bushing bolts/nuts must only be torqued to spec with the suspension sitting at the loaded ride height position. If torqued with the suspension extended, the bushings will be damaged when the suspension is compressed from the extended position. You can torque the bushings just enough to eliminate any free play, then carefully drive to a nearby shop to have the suspension re-torqued to spec with the car on a roll on hoist. It's practically impossible to do this right on the ground. Another way is to remove the front wheels, and using a bracket that bolts to the wheel hub face and the floor jack pad, support the weight of the car at that wheel and lift the car with the jack to compress the suspension before torquing anything. Limited torque wrench swing space will be a hassle with this method. Be careful with this or your new control arm bushings can be damaged as soon as you drive the car. The reason for all this is the requirement to prevent having any twisting stress in the bushing rubber when the car is sitting on it's wheels at the normal loaded ride height for your A4.

[jimbro]

The suspension pivot bushing bolts/nuts must only be torqued to spec with the suspension sitting at the loaded ride height position. If torqued with the suspension extended, the bushings will be damaged when the suspension is compressed from the extended position. You can torque the bushings just enough to eliminate any free play, then carefully drive to a nearby shop to have the suspension re-torqued to spec with the car on a roll on hoist. It's practically impossible to do this right on the ground. Another way is to remove the front wheels, and using a bracket that bolts to the wheel hub face and the floor jack pad, support the weight of the car at that wheel and lift the car with the jack to compress the suspension before torquing anything. Limited torque wrench swing space will be a hassle with this method. Be careful with this or your new control arm bushings can be damaged as soon as you drive the car. The reason for all this is the requirement to prevent having any twisting stress in the bushing rubber when the car is sitting on it's wheels at the normal loaded ride height for your A4.

Thanks for the heads up! Got this done on Saturday!

[diagnosticator]

bump, are the b5 torque specs the same as b6? I found a website that has the specs for b5.

Yes, the same.