Throttle problems, the rpm is lagging.

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[CyberPMG]

Throttle body alignment is with block 060 for VAG-COM. Check for vacuum leaks.

[onceover]

1200rpm idle? isnt that a bit high?

[old guy]

1200rpm idle? isnt that a bit high?

Yes that is too high.

Throttle body alignment is with block 060 for VAG-COM. Check for vacuum leaks.

Agreed. Check for vacuum leaks. That would explain the throttle hanging as well as the high idle speed. Sound like you are getting false air into the intake downstream of the throttle body.

[pimpbot]

Yeah, like the others said.

Also, isn't there a way to see how much the computer is 'trimming' the fuel injectors? I think I read somewhere that if its over 5% then you have a bad leak.

I would also suggest checking for turbo boost leaks.

[rbj325]

I can almost guarantee your problem is a failing check valve somewhere in the vacuum system. Save yourself sometime and just replace all of them.

[jonan]

be sure to buy some replacement clips, the check valves all have those pita one time use clips...

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[CyberPMG]

I would still check for vacuum leaks. Do tests. In my car (granted with a lot of miles on it), I found a leak in the intake manifold gasket (between the manifold and engine), PVC (bad internal check valve), crankcase breather hose (hard plastic hose was cracked and melted), and a few other things in that general area. Since you did the SAI delete, make sure the blockplate is securely on.

With my vacuum leaks, I was idling anywhere between 1000 rpm and 1800 rpm. After the fix, I'm back to a normal 800 rpm at idle when the engine is operating at temp. Do the checks. It should also help to improve your fuel economy after the fix.

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[rbj325]

If you're N249 and N112 still have those connections (the ones going off to the right) attached that could cause an issue.

Take a picture of the left side of the engine bay... did you disconnect the purge valve?

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[diagnosticator]

After the engine is fully warmed up, remove the TB inlet hose from the IC, and manually open the throttle plate to ~ WOT, then release and observe the throttle close, note if it sticks or hangs up somewhere before reaching the closed idle position. If the TB is hanging up or is sticky, replace the TB with a good used or new TB.

Using VAG-COM, you can observe the resistance value of the two gas pedal pots as you press the pedal down and release. The two pedal position sensors are ~the inverse of the other, that is, as one sensor increases resistance the other decreases. Observe the sensor values, note if the sensor resistance value shown, drops out to a low value, or increases to infinity or an open circuit value, any where in the range from idle to pressed to the floor and back.

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[diagnosticator]

Both the accelerator pedal and the throttle body use two sensors, one sensor confirms the other. On the TB, the two sensors vary at the same rate, with an offset. On the accel pedal the two sensors are inversely related. As one sensor value increases, the other sensor value decreases. While the two sensor values added together on the throttle body, always add to 99.6%, that is not the case with the accel pedal sensors. If the RPM hangs up on gear shifts, it's most likely a vacuum leak somewhere allowing false air into the intake manifold.

[diagnosticator]

2002 Audi A4 5MT 1.8T (drive-by wire)


The f*****g throttle still hangs when i shift gears or rev. my engine but only when my engine is hot (Celsius).

That is consistent with a vacuum leak that is worse with a hot engine, due to the leak source opening up as the engine heats up. One method to locate a leak, is to use a propane torch (NOT Burning!) and direct the propane gas around all the hoses and manifold joints. When the propane is sucked into the leak, the idle RPM should increase and smooth out. Where ever the propane is drawn into a leak, that is a false air leak source to be fixed.

[diagnosticator]

But my throttle is still hangs when i shift gears or rev. my engine.But only when the engine is hot/varm (90degrees celsius)

I guess the only soution is to buy a new throttle body then? Is there any ways to test/chek this? Block 060 on vagcom shows Aligment OK.

Or what about the potentiometer(level-sensor?) on the gass pedal? Is there any ways to test/chek this?

Yes, the TB and accelerator pedal sensor values are shown the the measuring blocks for the engine ECU. See measuring block 062. Also note the values in block 051!

From the VCDS lable file for the AMB:

;
; VCDS Label File
;
; Copyright © 2006-2009 Ross-Tech, LLC
;
; Audi A4 (8E)
;
; Component: J220 - Engine (#01) - AMB
;
; P/N: 8E0-909-518-???
;
; includes measuring blocks, basic setting, coding, coding-ii and adaptation
;
; This file is part of a redirection package,
; make sure you have all of the following files.
;
; 8E-01.LBL
; 06B-909-518-AMB.LBL (1.8l @ 125 HP - AMB)
;
; created on 27/Jul/2006 by Sebastian Stange ([email protected])
;
; last modificationon on 03/Feb/2009
;
; requires VCDS 805.0 or newer
;
;
;************************************************* *-
;
; measuring blocks & basic setting
;
;************************************************* *-
;
;
050,0,Engine Speed Increase
050,1,Engine Speed,(actual)
050,2,Engine Speed,(specified)
050,3,A/C Readiness,,Display Range: A/C-Low / A/C-High
050,4,A/C Compressor,,Display Range: Compr.OFF/Compr.ON
;
051,0,Engine Speed Increase (Gear shifts)
051,1,Engine Speed,(actual)
051,2,Engine Speed,(specified)
051,3,Selected Gear,,P or N = 0\nGear = 1 - 6\nR = 7
051,4,Battery Voltage,(Terminal 30),Specification: 11.0...15.0 V
;
052,0,Engine Speed Increase
052,1,Engine Speed,(actual)
052,2,Engine Speed,(specified)
052,3,A/C Readiness,,Range: A/C-Low / A/C-High
052,4,Rear,Window Heater,Range: ON/OFF
;
053,0,Engine Speed Increase (Generator Load)
053,1,Engine Speed,(actual)
053,2,Engine Speed,(specified)
053,3,Battery Voltage,(Terminal 30),Specification: 11.0...15.0 V
053,4,Generator,Load Signal
;
054,0,Idle Speed Stabilization
054,1,Engine Speed,(G28)
054,2,Load Status,,Display Range: Idle/Partial Throttle/Wide Open Throttle (WOT)/Enrichment/Deceleration
054,3,Accel. Pedal Pos.,Sensor 1 (G79)
054,4,Throttle Valve Angle
;
055,0,Idle Speed Stabilization
055,1,Engine Speed,(G28)
055,2,Idle Regulator
055,3,Idle Stabilization,Self-Adaptation
055,4,Operating,Condition
; 0xxx? = A/C Compressor
; 0xx?x = Gear engaged
; 0x?xx = A/C Readiness
; 0?xxx = Rear Window Heater
;
056,0,Idle Speed Stabilization
056,1,Engine Speed,(actual)
056,2,Engine Speed,(specified)
056,3,Idle Regulator
056,4,Operating,Condition
; 0xxx? = A/C Compressor
; 0xx?x = Gear engaged
; 0x?xx = A/C Readiness
; 0?xxx = Rear Window Heater
;
057,0,Idle Speed Stabilization (Air Condition)
057,1,Engine Speed,(actual)
057,2,Engine Speed,(specified)
057,3,A/C Compressor,,Range: Compr.OFF/Compr.ON
057,4,A/C Compressor,Pressure
;
060,0,Electronic Throttle (Throttle Body Adaptation)
060,1,Throttle Valve,Sensor 1 (G187)
060,2,Throttle Valve,Sensor 2 (G188)
060,3,Throttle Adaptation,Steps Counter
060,4,Result,Throttle Valve Adp.,Range: ADP RUN/ADP OK/ADP ERROR\nSpecification: ADP OK
;
B060,0,Electronic Throttle (Throttle Body Adaptation)
; "Activate" Basic Setting
; Wait until Field 4 shows "ADP OK"
B060,1,Throttle Valve,Sensor 1 (G187)
B060,2,Throttle Valve,Sensor 2 (G188)
B060,3,Throttle Adaptation,Steps Counter
B060,4,Result,Throttle Valve Adp.,Range: ADP RUN/ADP OK/ADP ERROR\nSpecification: ADP OK
;
061,0,Electronic Throttle
061,1,Engine Speed,(G28)
061,2,Battery Voltage,(Terminal 30),Specification: 11.0...15.0 V
061,3,Throttle Valve Angle
061,4,Operating,Condition
; 0xxx? = A/C Compressor
; 0xx?x = Gear engaged
; 0x?xx = A/C Readiness
; 0?xxx = Rear Window Heater
;
062,0,Electronic Throttle (Sensor Values)
062,1,Throttle Valve,Sensor 1 (G187)
062,2,Throttle Valve,Sensor 2 (G188)
062,3,Accel. Pedal Pos.,Sensor 1 (G79)
062,4,Accel. Pedal Pos.,Sensor 2 (G185)
;
O,06B-909-518-AMB
;

[diagnosticator]

The car wouldnt run with the intake hose off, but the TB looks good(opens and closes fast) when pushing on to the gasspedal with the iginition on.

- When I did the vagcom-scope (graphic logg) with block 062 the accelerator pedal sensor 1+2 has an equal increase and decrease, they did not ~ inverse reaction of the other as diagnosticator says it should.

- When I did the vagcom-scope (graphic logg) with block 062 the throttle valve angle sensor 1+2, they do have a ~inverse reaction of the other when they increased and decreased.

Maby the falut is in the accelerator pedal sensor (potentiometer)?

Yeah, I did not mean for you to do the test with the engine running! Also, I had mixed up the two type of sensor responses. Clearly the measuring blocks are correct, with the accel pedal showing both sensors changjng values at the same rate with an offset, where as the TB sensors change values inversely with each other.

[Zaloo]

not to change subject but anyone have issues with the TB causing a humming nouse at low throttle (just below 0 psi)? Fucking annoying, cant find any vacuum leaks, and sound appears to come from driverside.

[truls000]

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[A4Maine-iac]

Looks like you there's one up 4 sale right now.

http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/...le-body&cat=21

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[A4SoftWalker]

A lighter flywheel will mean less mass, inertia quicker rev up and down & a bit more difficult rev matching. A simple application of Principles of Momentum from Physics.

Emissions is the cause for slower than expected rpm recovery... That is what I remember. Blame ur tree huggers & mother earth. More seriously I learned to live with & drive with it not fight it. Maybe urs is worse than some but I doubt it. Have you done the N249 mod? It helps get rid of lux coasting feel & makes it more raw

[CyberPMG]

Pressure tests will not determine all vacuum leaks. You're still having RPM hesitations when getting off the gas pedal. You still have a vacuum leak somewhere.

I had perfect pressure but still had vacuum leaks (see my first reply). You need to inspect/test the PRV, crankcase breather tube, jet suction pump, etc. The PRV has 2 check valves built into it. For me, one of those valves went bad and was the main cause for high RPM at idle and having it stick when getting off the gas.

I have an aluminum lightweight flywheel (ECS Tuning), and the RPMs will drop quickly when I let off the gas.

If you haven't done so, do a TBA since you've installed a new throttle body. In VAG-COM, Basic Setting -> block 060 -> ADP RUN -> should get a status of ADP OK after the alignment is complete.

[rickadoe]

hey ya'll what is the part # for the PRV? mines hissing like crazy and idles high with codes...thanks....
oh found it! 06A129101F...just in case someone needs it!!

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[onceover]

SAI has nothing to do with the engine once it is at operating temperature. It helps heat up the catalytic converter quicker upon starting the car to reduce emissions

[Dolphin18T]

Are you tuned for your 3" MAF housing? I'm willing to bet the scaling is off.

What fuel pump are you using? Where did you get it?

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[Dolphin18T]

I'm still almost certain that it's your MAF scaling.

[Ricke166]

A local audi-mecanic tells me the stalling of the rpm/throttle is something called 'Audi Comfort Controll' ? Its keeps the rpm high because it 'thinks' that im gonne change gears, for a smother ride between the gearshifts!

But when i roll in neutral into forexample in to a parking lot, the engine stalls on 4000rpm fore some seconds, before it drops sloooovley down to 1200rpm an then again down to 8-900 rpm (idle) . This doesnt sound right!?!?

Is this really a possibility? I have the same rev hang issue but can't seem to remember if its always. Been like that, I've had the car for barely a month