help me out please

[dewey527]

So I found out that my water pump is leaking and will be doing TB and water pump What else should I consider doing while the front of the car is off? Should I even remotely think about doing rods? I compare it to replacing your oem wheels with dpe's because you have worn tires...Is it worth the extra cost? I do want to go bt in the future. So far on the list is tb, water pump, complete coolant flush, some new vacuum hose and possibly motor mounts.

[A4SoftWalker]

Rods are a LOT more involving than a timing belt.
U might want to look into:
1) FluiDampr silicone damped crankshaft pulley from USP on here
2) ARP crank pulley bolts to hold down 1) cause stock are one-time-use and need to be replaced each time going by the book.
3) Timing belt tensioner & accessory belt tensioner along with belts of course.
4) Look into pinning the small toothed timing belt pulley (not sure what this entails but its been mentioned on here).

[MikeWire]

...I compare it to replacing your oem wheels with dpe's because you have worn tires...

Maybe if you are a mechanic on the NASCAR circuit, changing rods is similar to changing tires...

Reality is that anytime you do internals, you are pulling the motor, checking tolerances and looking for wear etc. etc. You don't need to anything close to that involved if you are going in to R&R a timing belt kit.

It's good practice for putting your car in service mode though :)

[MLFHNTR]

Rods are a LOT more involving than a timing belt.
U might want to look into:
1) FluiDampr silicone damped crankshaft pulley from USP on here
2) ARP crank pulley bolts to hold down 1) cause stock are one-time-use and need to be replaced each time going by the book.
3) Timing belt tensioner & accessory belt tensioner along with belts of course.
4) Look into pinning the small toothed timing belt pulley (not sure what this entails but its been mentioned on here).

Doing the belts while doing the pump is a really good suggestion since you are going to be in there. Always nice to have the reassurance that they are new when driving.

Big thing if the front is going to be off is check over the majority of the engine and see if everything is straight and nothing else is on the way out. I know that does not help much but it would be the most logical to do a once over on parts you would not normally be able to see from just a "hood up" inspection.

[dewey527]

Maybe if you are a mechanic on the NASCAR circuit, changing rods is similar to changing tires...

Reality is that anytime you do internals, you are pulling the motor, checking tolerances and looking for wear etc. etc. You don't need to anything close to that involved if you are going in to R&R a timing belt kit.

It's good practice for putting your car in service mode though :)

I understand it is very intensive and I was just trying to make a simple comparison. Next time I will make sure I use the proper comparison:) How do you put it into service mode?

[MikeWire]

Ah I was just messing with you man....sometimes the "upgrade" posts on AZ are off in la-la fantasy land. Didn't mean to put you down or anything -looks like you have a decent setup there.

Anyway, service position is pulling the bumper cover and sliding the front core etc. forward to access the front of the motor.

[lave3k]

I recommend removing the front bumper completely if it is your first timing belt on a 1.8t, the extra space just makes things a little easier

[dewey527]

Gotcha, all is good. In the initial post I indicated the whole front would be off...guess people don't read:) just didn't know the correct terminology.

[dewey527]

so i finally got all the stuff and am tearing down the car to put on the timing belt and coolant pump. i start to loosen the four 6mm bolts on the crank pulley and it turned maybe 1/2-3/4 of an inch counter clockwise. is that a bad thing at this point?

[dewey527]

bump - i looked but couldn't find the torque specs for the four crank pulley bolts. also the tensioner pulley isn't in the same position as when i took it off... belt seems to be pretty firm though.

[lave3k]

The pulley rotated 1/2-3/4 in? Might want to try that one in degrees as I don't read posts or minds well.

As long as you haven't taken the timing belt off yet it doesn't matter, use the accessory pulley to line everything back up, and then remove the pulley.
Once the belt is off you do not want them moving independently, if one moves a slight amount just put it back but try to not move either the cams or the crank.

I wouldn't get to worried about the torque spec for the crank accessory drive pulley bolts, just put blue lock tight on them and if you want to use a number torque to 10 ft lbs. or so. Are you talking about the accessory tensioner pulley? If so the accessories can be in any position.

[dewey527]

The pulley rotated 1/2-3/4 in? Might want to try that one in degrees as I don't read posts or minds well.

As long as you haven't taken the timing belt off yet it doesn't matter, use the accessory pulley to line everything back up, and then remove the pulley.
Once the belt is off you do not want them moving independently, if one moves a slight amount just put it back but try to not move either the cams or the crank.

I wouldn't get to worried about the torque spec for the crank accessory drive pulley bolts, just put blue lock tight on them and if you want to use a number torque to 10 ft lbs. or so. Are you talking about the accessory tensioner pulley? If so the accessories can be in any position.

Thx, the belt was still on. after searching i started tightening down things. just about to start putting everything back together

[dewey527]

WOW - it's getting bad...don't think i should have done my timing belt. cleaned my dv and then i wanted to look at the dinky turbo, bad mistake. i feel some movement in the shaft and the blades look like they have been rubbing against the housing - fml

[diagnosticator]

Some play in the turbo bushings is normal. I don't see anything wrong in the photo you posted. Besides the belt and coolant pump. you should also replace the timing belt tensioner roller pulley and the other belt idler pulleys at the same time. The reason is the bearings in the idler and tensioner pulley wear and are about at the end of the reliable service life when the belt is replaced. Failure of the bearings at some time after the belt is replaced will cause the same damage to the engine as a broken timing belt.

[dewey527]

Thx diagnosticator! I did not want to go 71r at this time...after looking closer, there was no wear on the inside of the housing...i replaced the tb, cp, tensioner and idler pulley. i think the tensioner pulley is attached to the tensioner? No more AFE tip. It is such a piece of sh$t!! more gromments have disenigrated and a piece of swiss cheese probably has less holes.

[dewey527]

I won't be going 71r yet...After more looking around since the car is still not put back together I found additional hoses that need to be replaced. Like the one from the n75 to actuator (anyone know the size), tip to dv and dv to intake mani. I am taking out the afe and will be putting in the neuspeed tip (thx MmmBoost) when it arrives. I also have to find a used airbox or rig something up using the afe one. I also will be replacing some check valves that look to be iffy. Using the write-up that a4darkness so graciously did as reference for some of the check valves and hoses. Hopefully these fixes will help the issues...