Trying to start my car for the first time in 2.5 years. No start + codes inside.

[Das General]

7 Faults Found:
17956 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open Circuit
P1548 - 35-10 - - -Boost Pressure Contr.Valve Open Intermittent
17521 - Sensor1 Internal Resistance too High
P1113 - 35-10 - Bank1-Sensor1 Internal Resistance too High - Intermittent
18010 - Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage
P1602 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17580 - Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Signal too Low
P1172 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17987 - Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started
P1579 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster
P1654 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Here is what I got going on. Initial turn of the key, fuel pumps turn on, dump fuel from unhooked fuel line. It will only do this once, I can't seem to get it to continue cycling this dumping of fuel (trying to empty tank of old gas first).

Next, full turn of the key, starter clicks once. If I hold the key turned, it sounds like the starter clicking multiple times. Battery has been swapped out numerous times, I don't think it is a battery issue, plus I have it hooked up to a trickle charger.

Looking to dump my old fuel out, prime the motor/turbo and eventually start the car. Car has no n75, so I assume the first code is not the issue. The car also has no MAF, no EVAP, no EGT's, no rear O2's.

I'm leaning towards a alternator issue.

[omgwtfbbq!]

If the car thinks the throttle is in an impossible position it probably won't let the engine run, I'd be most worried about those codes.

17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17580 - Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Signal too Low
P1172 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17987 - Idle Speed Contr.Throttle Pos. Adaptation not started
P1579 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

[Das General]

Any obvious fix?

[omgwtfbbq!]

New TPS/throttle body? I have no idea. I would try switching the throttle body with a known good one. Your ECU didn't go into lockout mode did it? That would stop the engine from starting.

Also sitting for so long probably had a negative effect on your seals, I'd be on the lookout for new leaks for a while.

[Das General]

New TPS/throttle body? I have no idea. I would try switching the throttle body with a known good one. Your ECU didn't go into lockout mode did it? That would stop the engine from starting.

Also sitting for so long probably had a negative effect on your seals, I'd be on the lookout for new leaks for a while.

Throttle is the original, but the wiring harness was taken off for obvious reasons. What are the signs of lockout mode? The ECU was reflashed 2 days ago. Brand new motor and turbo setup, the seals should be good.



Picture taken yesterday.

[TozoM8]

All those codes are present because the batt was disconnected. You need to do a throttle adaptation with vag-com and it will be fine.
Turn the key on but do not start the car.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 060
[Go!]
[Switch to basic settings]
Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
[Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

[supremedk]

The alternator being bad will have no affect on wether the engine starts or not.( as long as you have proper battery voltage) you say the starter "clicks", this usually means the battery is not up to the task or you have a bad connection(power or ground) somewhere in the starter circuit. You also say "battery has been swapped out numerous times", for what?? a new one? one you think is charged?? a known good one from a different car???

I wouldnt worry about anything else until you can get the engine to crank.

[omgwtfbbq!]

All those codes are present because the batt was disconnected. You need to do a throttle adaptation with vag-com and it will be fine.
Turn the key on but do not start the car.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 060
[Go!]
[Switch to basic settings]
Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
[Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

Listen to this guy.

[Blue_S4]

Picture taken yesterday.

Sick engine bay! Can't wait to see it run!

[speedracer9k]

I am I the only one that sees this sick ass single turbo setup? Looks damn amazing, good luck getting it started.

[Das General]

The alternator being bad will have no affect on wether the engine starts or not.( as long as you have proper battery voltage) you say the starter "clicks", this usually means the battery is not up to the task or you have a bad connection(power or ground) somewhere in the starter circuit. You also say "battery has been swapped out numerous times", for what?? a new one? one you think is charged?? a known good one from a different car???

I wouldnt worry about anything else until you can get the engine to crank.

Yeah I originally had an 11lbs Genesis battery that was supposed to be up to par. Brought it to Pep Boys and it only registered 45 CA's. I swapped it with a bigger battery that only registered 240 CA's, neither will do the trick. I also have the batteries setup on the trickle charger, which according to my basic in-car volt gauge, claims I have 12.5 volts.

Thanks for the headsup!

All those codes are present because the batt was disconnected. You need to do a throttle adaptation with vag-com and it will be fine.
Turn the key on but do not start the car.

[Select]
[01 - Engine]
[Measuring Blocks - 08]
Group 060
[Go!]
[Switch to basic settings]
Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
[Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.

Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

Yeah I was leaning towards a throttle alignment, my vagcom is bootleg - currently downloading a new version to do the alignment. Thanks for the tip.

I am I the only one that sees this sick ass single turbo setup? Looks damn amazing, good luck getting it started.

Thanks! Excited to get it up and running.

[Yesmar]

once you get it rollin let us know the results!

[supremedk]

Is the starter actually turning the engine yet? you can have 12 volts all day long, but its amperage that you need to get that single turbo monster turning!! Your battery also needs to be able to maintain 12v while its cranking.

Looks awsome!!!

[jibberjive]

Nice, so close! So do you worry at all about the plastic of the heater hoses, the slave hose, or the back-left corner of your coolant tank and the proximity to your hotside/exhaust? What's the line running over the intake mani covered in heat shield wrapping? Any more pics you're sharing with the world at this moment, or do we just have to wait?

[VAST]

Looking good

Hope you get it running soon.

[S4_NE]

very nice GL

[DxC]

hey ill head up there and help you get this thing running. lookin good :) almost there!

[Das General]

Is the starter actually turning the engine yet? you can have 12 volts all day long, but its amperage that you need to get that single turbo monster turning!! Your battery also needs to be able to maintain 12v while its cranking.

Looks awsome!!!

It doesn't sound like it is turning. I can just hear it clicking quickly.

Nice, so close! So do you worry at all about the plastic of the heater hoses, the slave hose, or the back-left corner of your coolant tank and the proximity to your hotside/exhaust? What's the line running over the intake mani covered in heat shield wrapping? Any more pics you're sharing with the world at this moment, or do we just have to wait?

The heater core hoses are wrapped on the bottom, and I'll get around to wrapping the top half. Everything else is wrapped, except the brake booster, which I am going to swap out. I only installed the stock brake booster to get rid of the massive leak that would occur if it wasn't in there. I have a new brake booster setup in the works that will be heat proof. The other item is a vac hose that will have a heat sleeve on it.

I'll post some new pics up in a bit.

[Das General]

hey ill head up there and help you get this thing running. lookin good :) almost there!

Yeah! Let's do it. I sent nick the codes, he thinks I should at least plug in a n75; I didn't think that would stop it from starting.

Looking good

Hope you get it running soon.

Thanks fellas! Any insight on to this no-start?

When the rain slows down, I'll venture out and do the throttle realignment.

[supremedk]

I would say you are having a "no crank issue" not a "no start" issue. A no start issue usually denotes that the engine is cranking, but not firing.

if the starter is still "clicking" and the engine isnt turning you have an issue with the battery or your connections(starter or battery or ground) . I would suggest you bolt up a known good battery from a friends car and try it. Dont worry about adaptations or alignments or codes until you can get the starter to turn the engine!!

[Das General]

I would say you are having a "no crank issue" not a "no start" issue. A no start issue usually denotes that the engine is cranking, but not firing.

if the starter is still "clicking" and the engine isnt turning you have an issue with the battery or your connections(starter or battery or ground) . I would suggest you bolt up a known good battery from a friends car and try it. Dont worry about adaptations or alignments or codes until you can get the starter to turn the engine!!

Ok, I've hooked up a known battery. So it has to be a connection between the grounds or starter...

Thanks!

[supremedk]

Im sure you already have, but just in case you havent, put a wrench on the crank and make sure it turns.

[Das General]

Im sure you already have, but just in case you havent, put a wrench on the crank and make sure it turns.

I did a while back, it turned with difficultly, which I assume is due to compression. If the crank doesn't turn, what is the issue there?

[salts]

Haha shit! Looks good! I guess im going to have to get my tuning wrapped up rather soon!

If the crank does not turn with a wrench, something is either bound up in the bottom end or the valve train. Simple as that. If its the valve train it will feel springy due to belt stretch. If the bottom end were locked up or say something was in a cylinder keeping it from rotating it will be locked up tighter than a drum :/ If it rotated before im sure its ok. I think you have another issue here. If you try rotating the motor over with a wrench, it should be difficult (due to compression) then get easy, then difficult, then easy etc. Either the starter is not working or you have some other issue.
I know this sounds retarded, but double check everything including your brain. I didn't drive a stick for a year while i was building mine and my car wouldn't start because i was so nervous about starting it i forgot to push the clutch pedal in and my boost gauge was covering the big red screen that says " push clutch to start engine". Anyways. This could be something very simple. Check all wires to starter and grounds. Also, before you panic, get under the dash and make sure that the "fully disengaged" clutch pedal swtich is engaging. Mine somehow got bent out of the way and the car would not start with the clutch pedal depressed. Its a small (maybe 1/2" by 1/2" ) black sensor with a small plunger that sticks out of it that will hit toward the upper top of the clutch pedal arm. Its hard to see. You really have to get up in there to look at it.
Those are just a few things that i would check before getting really upset. Check those out and go from there.

[Das General]

Haha shit! Looks good! I guess im going to have to get my tuning wrapped up rather soon!

hahah yup, better get on that! How is progress?

[salts]

hahah yup, better get on that! How is progress?

Everything is done. Finished Breaking the engine in last week. Ready to tune. Waiting on my laptop to get fixed so that I can log and load tunes. Hopefully start revisions in a few weeks.

[Dubluv11]

I did a while back, it turned with difficultly, which I assume is do to compression. If the crank doesn't turn, what is the issue there?

it should be hard to turn, but not TOO hard... if it doesnt turn at all thats bad news... that means over time your pistons dried up and corroded and siezed to your cylinder walls and tozoM8 totally beat me to the throttle adaptation idea.. did you try that yet? low voltage at terminal 30 could be a bad battery connector... clean the battery posts up with an sos pad and slap the terminals back on there nice and snug. go from there and let us know what happens... good luck bud!

ps... i'd like to have surprise butt secks with your motor

[Das General]

Haha shit! Looks good! I guess im going to have to get my tuning wrapped up rather soon!

If the crank does not turn with a wrench, something is either bound up in the bottom end or the valve train. Simple as that. If its the valve train it will feel springy due to belt stretch. If the bottom end were locked up or say something was in a cylinder keeping it from rotating it will be locked up tighter than a drum :/ If it rotated before im sure its ok. I think you have another issue here. If you try rotating the motor over with a wrench, it should be difficult (due to compression) then get easy, then difficult, then easy etc. Either the starter is not working or you have some other issue.
I know this sounds retarded, but double check everything including your brain. I didn't drive a stick for a year while i was building mine and my car wouldn't start because i was so nervous about starting it i forgot to push the clutch pedal in and my boost gauge was covering the big red screen that says " push clutch to start engine". Anyways. This could be something very simple. Check all wires to starter and grounds. Also, before you panic, get under the dash and make sure that the "fully disengaged" clutch pedal swtich is engaging. Mine somehow got bent out of the way and the car would not start with the clutch pedal depressed. Its a small (maybe 1/2" by 1/2" ) black sensor with a small plunger that sticks out of it that will hit toward the upper top of the clutch pedal arm. Its hard to see. You really have to get up in there to look at it.
Those are just a few things that i would check before getting really upset. Check those out and go from there.

Thanks man, these are things I need to look into for my process of elimination.

Everything is done. Finished Breaking the engine in last week. Ready to tune. Waiting on my laptop to get fixed so that I can log and load tunes. Hopefully start revisions in a few weeks.

Congrats man, I expect big things from that setup. Keep us posted on the results

it should be hard to turn, but not TOO hard... if it doesnt turn at all thats bad news... that means over time your pistons dried up and corroded and siezed to your cylinder walls and tozoM8 totally beat me to the throttle adaptation idea.. did you try that yet? low voltage at terminal 30 could be a bad battery connector... clean the battery posts up with an sos pad and slap the terminals back on there nice and snug. go from there and let us know what happens... good luck bud!

ps... i'd like to have surprise butt secks with your motor

hahaha, no sex with my motor, only lube it gets is motor oil. With regards to turning the motor by hand. Prior to installing the heads, in order to line up the crank for TDC, I had rotated the crank multiple times - turned really easily, cylinder walls were freshly honed with new piston rings etc so everything looked clean. I don't think it would have seized that quickly. But with the heads on and the timing belt on, it became difficult to turn. I didn't try to turn hard though.

Could something have happened in between putting the heads on the block, so much that it would make it that difficult. Or is that simply the compression resistance?

Just installed a legit 409 version of VAG, I'm literally sitting in my car about to do this throttle adaptation.

[Nexus1155]

LOL I didn't say it wouldn't not start the car, but plugging it in will get rid of one of the codes you are getting.

[salts]

Thanks man, these are things I need to look into for my process of elimination.

Could something have happened in between putting the heads on the block, so much that it would make it that difficult. Or is that simply the compression resistance?

As long as you are positive that the cam marks were aligned correctly and the timing belt was installed correctly (cam lock bar, popped the cam gears, crank lock pin.) there should be nothing that would hold that motor up. If you have the spark plugs in and you are sure that the timing is correct that i just mentioned, you are feeling the compression strokes in the engine.
When you do a timing belt you should turn the motor over a few times and verify that the cam bar still pops into place when the crank TDC mark is lined up. Then look at the cam marks again and be sure that the arrows on the caps are pointing to all four of them. You really need to check this if you haven't. Its not worth the time and money in repairs to skip doing this.
So, since your motor is already in the car and you can not see the crank pulley mark, get a crank lock pin. Rotate the motor over by hand until you feel the pin pop in place, screw it in then pull the valve covers and look at the cam marks( if you are not 100% positive or did not do this before).

[Sales@RAI]

Derek, do you feel it building compression when you turn it over with the rachet? You should feel it get harder and harder to turn, and then turn fairly easily, and then get tough again.

Good to see you wrenching again dude.

[Evilevo]

+1
Derek, you are most likely just feeling the compression stroke of the motor. But if you are worried or have time to kill, you can always do what Salts said and get a crank lock pin, lock the crank and than take off the valves covers and check the marks.

You definitely do not want to go through what I did when we first cranked the motor. We never checked the timing because it was done by a shop and went to crank it and bent 3 valves.

Good luck man! Glad to see you are working on your car and getting it done!

[Das General]

As long as you are positive that the cam marks were aligned correctly and the timing belt was installed correctly (cam lock bar, popped the cam gears, crank lock pin.) there should be nothing that would hold that motor up. If you have the spark plugs in and you are sure that the timing is correct that i just mentioned, you are feeling the compression strokes in the engine.
When you do a timing belt you should turn the motor over a few times and verify that the cam bar still pops into place when the crank TDC mark is lined up. Then look at the cam marks again and be sure that the arrows on the caps are pointing to all four of them. You really need to check this if you haven't. Its not worth the time and money in repairs to skip doing this.
So, since your motor is already in the car and you can not see the crank pulley mark, get a crank lock pin. Rotate the motor over by hand until you feel the pin pop in place, screw it in then pull the valve covers and look at the cam marks( if you are not 100% positive or did not do this before).

I used a camlock bar and crank pin, I also counted the chain links in between the cam gears. Should be TDC 100 percent of the way.

Derek, do you feel it building compression when you turn it over with the rachet? You should feel it get harder and harder to turn, and then turn fairly easily, and then get tough again.

Good to see you wrenching again dude.

Yeah it certainly got harder to turn at one point in time.

+1
Derek, you are most likely just feeling the compression stroke of the motor. But if you are worried or have time to kill, you can always do what Salts said and get a crank lock pin, lock the crank and than take off the valves covers and check the marks.

You definitely do not want to go through what I did when we first cranked the motor. We never checked the timing because it was done by a shop and went to crank it and bent 3 valves.

Good luck man! Glad to see you are working on your car and getting it done!

Yea, I've checked the timing a couple of times. Before I had the motor in, I popped the cams out for a bit then put them back in by counting the links and lining up the marks. I also used a cam lock bar after that and it was golden.

[Das General]

Are my HIDs supposed to be firing up? I've got all the other lights working, but my HIDS won't fire. This could also be do to some faulty wiring, as I have an aftermarket kit and had shop install them about 5 years ago. It is a funky wiring setup.

[AMC]

Derek didn't you cut your harness and rewire everything? I'd check into looking to see if that's your issue

[Das General]

Derek didn't you cut your harness and rewire everything? I'd check into looking to see if that's your issue

Negative, I didn't have to cut any of the actual wiring. I pulled back some of the sleeve protection in order to reach some items to their new location. But no wiring cutting was done.

Ran has stopped, so I'll go check the grounds and starter connection when I get a chance.

[AMC]

If no wiring was cut 'yea check all your grounds there's one underneath the passenger frame rail, one by the passenger head and like 3? under the expansion tank

[salts]

Sounds like your timing should be good to go. Update on turning the motor over?

[destrolock]

Noob here, but what about the engine speed sender g28. Make sure its plugged in. I know the ecu will not let the motor start if it is faulty or unplugged. Just throwing this out there.

Build looks sick.

[Das General]

I am trying to get the vag com 409.1 crack to work. Anyone familiar with the crack and where to place the bin files?

When I get back to my house I'll check all of the grounds.