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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings dkky996's Avatar
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    DIY: Removing Rear Bumper/Valence

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    For those of you who want to safely remove your rear valence or need to remove the rear bumper for some reason here you go:

    Only tools you'll need are deep 10mm socket and #25 torx.

    First, remove three (3) torx bolts from right and left wheel well (you don't need to remove the wheel unless your ride is so slammed you can't get to the torx bolts.).



    Second, remove the three (3) torx bolts from the bottom of the rear valence.



    Open the trunk and you'll see a compartment on each side. Open both the left and right compartments. You'll see a black square shaped plastic piece with four holes. This plastic piece holds the rear light housing. Place a rod in the holes on the plastic piece and turn it counter clock wise to remove it. The light housing should just pull out.





    Unplug the light housing and you'll see a white plastic rod driven into a plastic housing. Wedge the rod out of the plastic housing. Once the rod is pulled out, the plastic housing has a hinge that swings open. Repeat this on the other side.





    Directly underneath the plastic bolt that holds the rear light housing, you'll see a hole with a long threaded stud. Use the deep 10mm socket and remove the nut holding the bumper to the car's body. Repeat this on the other side.



    Grab the side of the bumper next to the rear wheels. The sides of the bumper is held on by tabs, pull with little pressure and the tabs detach easily. Do this on both sides of the bumper.




    The Bumper is now free.
    Last edited by dkky996; 09-26-2010 at 04:34 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings dkky996's Avatar
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    Here are some detail pics of the bumper and the rear of the car with the bumper removed.






    As you can see, the rear valence is held on by various tabs. You can remove the rear valence without removing the rear bumper but you run the chance of snapping off one of the tabs. If you remove the bumper, you can go from the back side of the bumper and remove the valence tabs by wedging open the slots.





    Enjoy!

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings Pared's Avatar
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    This is going to come in handy for me this weekend.

    Thanks!
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  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings tofuking's Avatar
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    This is an awesome DIY! thank you so much! One of my rebars got bent from someone rear ending me while i was parked in a parking lot. I am assuming the black impact bar from your third pic (second post) comes off easily too? If you can do me a favor and just take a look and see how complex replacing those two bars will be? the rebar bars connected to the black impact bar and the car? or any photos would be much appreciated.

    Thanks again!

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings wwhan's Avatar
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    I removed the valance, for painting, without removing the bumper cover & one needs be very careful unzipping the valence from the bumper cover, this way. It goes back together easier than it comes apart. For removal, unzip the left & right ends first. The corner area is the trickiest part.
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  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings fasttoys's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwhan View Post
    I removed the valance, for painting, without removing the bumper cover & one needs be very careful unzipping the valence from the bumper cover, this way. It goes back together easier than it comes apart. For removal, unzip the left & right ends first. The corner area is the trickiest part.
    Did the same start at each end then its easy just work slow. It took me 15 minutes. I painted mt rear valance red with the center painted satin black perfect match looks much bettter.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings b6bydesign04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wwhan View Post
    I removed the valance, for painting, without removing the bumper cover & one needs be very careful unzipping the valence from the bumper cover, this way. It goes back together easier than it comes apart. For removal, unzip the left & right ends first. The corner area is the trickiest part.
    Quote Originally Posted by fasttoys View Post
    Did the same start at each end then its easy just work slow. It took me 15 minutes. I painted mt rear valance red with the center painted satin black perfect match looks much bettter.
    Any tricks to actually removing it? I.e., which direction to pull the clips, how much force, etc. Thanks in advance!
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  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings Kandiru's Avatar
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    Fantastic writeup, just what i need for the aftermarket acustic parking sensor install in my non-navi Premium Plus.
    Thread subscribed.
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  9. #9
    Established Member Two Rings r8ders's Avatar
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    Great write-up. i know this is a old thread but is the removal any different if you have the rear parking sensors intstalled?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings jamesj2k's Avatar
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    best DIY ever!!! A+++
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  11. #11
    Active Member Two Rings
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    Bumping this - any tips for removing the rear bumper with the rear parking sensors installed?

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Dasquade's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdm5 View Post
    Bumping this - any tips for removing the rear bumper with the rear parking sensors installed?
    Same removal instructions... You just need to unplug your sensor harnass of the sensors from your module in the trunk right side. I forgot if it is the left one or right plug but easy to check if you follow the wire. Once unplugged, pull it completly out through the water tight seal cap. If you install it back, make sure the seal is properly sealed again so you don't get water inside the trunk.
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  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings Highlander1010's Avatar
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    That's pretty good! Thanks for the write-up!

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  14. #14
    Active Member Two Rings oinkoinkpig's Avatar
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    When you put the bumper back on did the edges of the bumper stick out? (the tip, sharp end of the bumper)
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  15. #15
    Active Member One Ring
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    Audi A5 Rear Bumper Removal - Same instructions

    Great instructions. It also applies in a Audi A5 rear bumper removal.

    To add to this great thread is that my A5 did not come with a plastic rod driven into a plastic housing that you after removing the lamp, instead it has a vertical screw that moves up or down the housing that secures the bumper. Just unscrew it until bumper is free. (Screw will not come out, it just releases the bumper). As posted, repeat on the other side.

    See pictures attached:

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings smetch's Avatar
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    nicee
    Last edited by smetch; 10-16-2013 at 06:23 PM. Reason: wrong post

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings mattchat's Avatar
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    One thing to note, however, is if you have the backup sensors they have a cable harness that is pretty tough to remove and extends along the entire back of the bumper as one long piece that's zip tied in several locations. I just finished putting on my DEVAL Valence and had to be careful to work around the bumper hanging off the back (used lots of blankets).
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  18. #18
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Any avant/allroad guys out there that have tips on pulling out the bumper bolts by the tail lights? Last time I did this I dropped both bolts in the structure of the car and could only recover one of them with a long, bendable magnet. I just bought an S-line bumper and have been hesitant to install it because I don't want to drop anymore bolts in the there...

    I guess a good option is to buy a magnetic socket insert??
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  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings saxon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fasttoys View Post
    Did the same start at each end then its easy just work slow. It took me 15 minutes. I painted mt rear valance red with the center painted satin black perfect match looks much bettter.
    its funny... its because of this thread i found out that fasttoys was the original owner of my s4. my car has been from dallas texas all the way to the middle of no where PA
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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Three Rings YelloJello's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash1121 View Post
    Any avant/allroad guys out there that have tips on pulling out the bumper bolts by the tail lights? Last time I did this I dropped both bolts in the structure of the car and could only recover one of them with a long, bendable magnet. I just bought an S-line bumper and have been hesitant to install it because I don't want to drop anymore bolts in the there...

    I guess a good option is to buy a magnetic socket insert??
    I didn't have a magnetic socket, but I'm sure that would be super helpful. Luckily, the bolt is only half way threaded, and the other half is a tip which the nut slides on. Therefore I carefully removed it while it was still in the socket and didn't drop it. And putting back on I used needle nose pliers to get in the tip. I was still sweating because of the possibility of dropping it. It's hard to stick your head and flashlight in there and see the tip.

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  21. #21
    Veteran Member Three Rings RemusUSA's Avatar
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    Nice thread! Thanks for writing up+1 :)
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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings drob23's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by crash1121 View Post
    Any avant/allroad guys out there that have tips on pulling out the bumper bolts by the tail lights? Last time I did this I dropped both bolts in the structure of the car and could only recover one of them with a long, bendable magnet. I just bought an S-line bumper and have been hesitant to install it because I don't want to drop anymore bolts in the there...

    I guess a good option is to buy a magnetic socket insert??
    Funny enough, I put a hidden hitch on the GF's GTI the other day and one of the steps involved moving bolts into the frame rail and pulling them out of a separate hole. The tool used was a bolt fish wire thing where you thread the bolt with the wire to avoid losing it. Not sure if this helps, or if you already know about these, but maybe it might help?

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  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by YelloJello View Post
    And putting back on I used needle nose pliers to get in the tip. I was still sweating because of the possibility of dropping it. It's hard to stick your head and flashlight in there and see the tip.
    Yes, it is indeed very hard to see. I will attempt with needle nose pliers. Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by drob23 View Post
    The tool used was a bolt fish wire thing where you thread the bolt with the wire to avoid losing it. Not sure if this helps, or if you already know about these, but maybe it might help?
    I'm a moron and typed "bolt" when I meant "nut", but I appreciate your research! I'm sure I'll find this ridiculously helpful sometime in the future.

    My corrections make it seem as though I have some pretty serious problems... Hahaha
    Quote Originally Posted by crash1121 View Post
    Any avant/allroad guys out there that have tips on pulling out the bumper NUTS by the tail lights? Last time I did this I dropped both NUTS in the structure of the car and could only recover one of them with a long, bendable magnet. I just bought an S-line bumper and have been hesitant to install it because I don't want to drop any more NUTS in the there...

    I guess a good option is to buy a magnetic socket insert??
    Last edited by crash1121; 10-18-2013 at 07:37 PM.
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  24. #24
    Veteran Member Three Rings haroulli's Avatar
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    Great write up! I want to see about installing parking sensors. I have found a company back in my native England that supply a very good kit that looks OEM. It is actually the dealer installed kit just without the branding etc. http://vag-shop.co.uk/index.php?_a=p...product_id=116

    My question is does the bumper cover have the markings for where the sensors should go? My Wifes BMW X3 had this which made the install go that much better. Last thing i want is holes to be off.

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  25. #25
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Someone backed into me in a parking lot and hit me JUST hard enough to bust a bracket for one of my backup sensors, it didn't even scuff the paint! The sensor was dangling loose inside the bumper and driving me crazy every time I shifted into R. Grrrrr.

    Great write-up and this worked perfectly on my car ('09 A4). A quick word to those dealing with backup sensors: I did NOT have to unplug the harness to do this. I followed the directions and popped the bumper off and there was enough slack to lay the bumper on the ground and service the busted sensor. Just be sure to lay a couple of towels or something down first so you don't scuff or scratch the bumper by laying it on the concrete. The backup sensors themselves are about $30 from various online re-sellers.

    Otherwise the bumper popped off it's tab very easily, almost too easy once you got started. The darn thing almost fell off the car!

  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings drob23's Avatar
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    Thanks all for the thread, didn't have much problems getting the bumper off, a little annoying getting it on. The CF tabs that screw into the bottom with the torx screws weren't lining up *perfect* oh well, seems to work...

    For the people with backup sensors, I snipped a few of the zip ties that held down the cable, which gave some extra slack. Especially useful if you're putting on a CF diffuser, which is more rigid and thus harder to snap in. I can't imagine doing this without taking off the bumper, those tabs hold the stock valence in there tightly.

    Bumper off
    20140614_144639 by sasfasdf, on Flickr

    Here's a pics of my zip ties snipped:

    20140614_144933 by sasfasdf, on Flickr

    20140614_144939 by sasfasdf, on Flickr

    And the final product

    14441927643_6f496422a3_o by sasfasdf, on Flickr

    20140614_155359 by sasfasdf, on Flickr
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  27. #27
    Senior Member Two Rings Massey's Avatar
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    Love the write up thanks!!
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  28. #28
    Veteran Member Four Rings doowopaudi's Avatar
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    Hey everyone,

    Anyone know how to make the ends of the bumper go back into place? I picked my car up from the shop yesterday and it's slightly sticking out and I don't want to take it back to the shop unless it's necessary.
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  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings doowopaudi's Avatar
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    anyone?
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  30. #30
    Veteran Member Four Rings rlarsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by doowopaudi View Post
    anyone?
    You can try loosen the three torx bolts from the bottom of the rear valence (see photo #1 in the first post), and the see if you can press the edges together.
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  31. #31
    Veteran Member Four Rings doowopaudi's Avatar
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    Thanks brother. Ima have time on Tuesday and I just wanna get a head start on what to look for.
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  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings theedge111's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlarsen View Post
    You can try loosen the three torx bolts from the bottom of the rear valence (see photo #1 in the first post), and the see if you can press the edges together.
    I doubt that will help at all. When I had my valence swapped out my buddy didn't even bother removing the rear bumper because he didn't want to deal with refitting issues. He only removed those three bolts at the bottom they had no effect on the bumper at all.

    By the way it took him about 10 minutes to instal my deval valance with out removing the rear bumper, not too sure why it's recommended to do so.

  33. #33
    Established Member Two Rings KaleZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkky996 View Post
    Here are some detail pics of the bumper and the rear of the car with the bumper removed.






    As you can see, the rear valence is held on by various tabs. You can remove the rear valence without removing the rear bumper but you run the chance of snapping off one of the tabs. If you remove the bumper, you can go from the back side of the bumper and remove the valence tabs by wedging open the slots.





    Enjoy!
    Just wanted to thank OP for this DIY. It was so easy to get my dual exit rear valence put in because of this thread.

    Made my night!

  34. #34
    Established Member Two Rings nbk9nbk's Avatar
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    Thanks as well☺

  35. #35
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Anyone with lane assist remove their bumper?
    any special wires to watch out for?

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings ballinb5's Avatar
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    Great write up - Helped me a ton as I just did this but then one of the screws that holds the bumper bolt fell into the abyss :(... I was so mad.

  37. #37
    Active Member Two Rings flyeyes's Avatar
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    So for starters, let me say that there is an extremely helpful post that is on this form that says how to take off the bumper cover from an Audi A5. Assuming it was a B8, NOT a B8.5 model.... Very good write up, with excellent pix and notes.

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Bumper-Valence

    With that being said, the Audi A5 B8.5 models have a few subtle differences in how to remove their rear bumper. I will try and add photos to this post later. But I have listed below the changes, or like I said "differences" between the A5 B8 & B8.5 bumper cover removal steps.

    My car is a 2015 A5 B8.5 Quattro S-Line Prem. Plus 2.0T (for what it's worth, I'm fairly positive the S5 bumper cover removal will be similar to this.)

    Tools I used:
    Cordless Drill with a bit that has a socket fitting (optional, but man was it super helpful and a time saver.)
    Flat blade screw driver
    Torx #25 screw driver
    Torx #25 bit socket for a 1/4" drive ratchet
    Torx #20 screw driver (or socket)
    Torx #40 socket (and 3/8" ratchet)
    Deep well 10mm socket (1/4 inch drive)
    a 6 inch or longer 1/4" ratchet extension
    a 3/8"s drive ratchet (extension optional)
    a pair of dikes (to cut zip ties from bumper cabling)
    2 - Black zip ties (Yes, Audi used zip ties on the rear bumper cover. Replacement zip ties must be medium in size to fit)
    Any sort of blunt plastic sturdy object to help with pushing the diffuser clips off the inside of the bumper cover (DO NOT use a flat blade to push the plastic tabs "out". Just use the flat blade to wedge them downward, and then use the blunt object as a "pushing" device to push the tabs out. (You can even use the handle of a medium sized 3/8" drive ratchet.)

    This tool list made my job "possible/easy" to do, so that I didn't have to take my wheels off. You can still do the job without items such as the 1/4" ratchet, and #25 torx socket. I used them because it allowed me to leave my rear wheels on. Personal preference, as well as the tools you have available.

    Steps I performed in this order:
    1. Removal of 3 Torx (#25) screws in each of the rear fender wells (still same old process).
    2. Removal of 3 Torx (#25) screws from underneath the car. (still same old process).
    3. Removal of a black plastic "push clip" that is removable using the flat blade screw driver. (New B8.5 A5 S-Line feature to remove)
    4. Removal of 2 black square plastic knobs that has 4 holes in it that holds tail lights in. I used a short awl. You can use a small/skinny screw driver too. (still same old process).
    5. Give the tail lights a firm pull carefully, and they will pop out.
    6. Unplug tail lightsThen you can fully remove them.
    7. Removal of 2 10mm nuts that are inside the body of the car that help hold on the bumper cover. (I used a 10mm deep well socket, and an 8 inch long extension for a better reach)
    ***Be careful with the 10mm nuts. If you drop them, they may be gone for good if you don't have a magnet for retrieval.!***

    I dropped mine inside the body, and it was a MAJOR PITA to fish out with a magnet.

    Now, here's where some new B8.5 items differ from older B8 bumper removal process.
    8. There is no longer a "white" peg that holds the corners of the bumper on behind the tail lights. 2015 Audi A5 B8.5 has replaced this with a "vertical black plastic #40 Torx screw" that is in a fixed position. The #40 Torx screw moves a "slide lock" mechanism that travels "up/down" the vertical Torx screw. This is what helps hold the bumper on below the tail lights. The tail lights MUST be removed to get to these slide locks.

    When you turn the plastic Torx screw "counter clockwise" it will lower the slide lock and allow the bumper cover to loosen. Once the slide locks are fully lowered the bumper will detach easily (with a firm pull using your hands). Be aware if you lower the slide lock too far, it may pop out of the rail. It's ok, if the slide lock pops out or falls out. It can be placed back in while the bumper cover is off of the car. But it must be with the #40 Torx screw threaded into the top slightly.

    9. At this point you should probably have a large sheet of cardboard, or blanket on the ground to lay the bumper cover on. This is because there is a cable connected to the bumper cover on the Right Rear portion of the bumper cover for the rear object sensors. It does not have a master connector to unplug (unfortunately, which is a minor pain in the ass.)
    If you try to unplug the connectors from the bumper sensors at the "silver boxes" you may end up breaking off the plastic clips.

    10. Instead, I used a #20?? Torx socket bit with my cordless drill to remove the 3 Torx screws that hold the silver boxes into the bumper cover.
    11. Next, You can then start to unplug the smaller black & gray bumper sensor plugs with a flat blade screw driver. You can use the flat blade to slide back the "gray T-tab" lock of the connector towards it's wire to unlock them. Once "unlocked" the connectors will then slide off.

    12. In the center of the bumper cover there are 2 locations where the wires for the sensors are zip tied to the bumper cover. I used a pair of dikes to cut the zip ties. During re-installation I had black zip ties on hand, and used them during reassembly of my bumper cover.

    13. Using a #20(or #25) torx driver, remove the single screw near the corners of the bumper cover & diffuser. (1 per side)
    At this point you get the pleasure of removing the diffuser from the bumper cover.


    I found that it was easier to remove the diffuser/valance with the bumper cover laying on a clean thick blanket, paint side down. You can use towels, or whatever you have on hand.... Totally up to you, and how you want to do this part.
    It's possible to remove the diffuser with the bumper cover facing up towards the sky, but it makes it more difficult. Just be careful while you're pushing the tabs out, so that you don't tear or deform the plastic tabs of the bumper cover. They're not very strong.
    "Speed is a disease cured only by poverty" - unknown

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  38. #38
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Mar 02 2016
    AZ Member #
    369666
    Location
    Regina

    Thanks, this will help a lot. I just ordered the Deval Carbon fiber diffuser. If you could post some pics that will be extremely helpful for my install.

  39. #39
    Registered Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Mar 02 2016
    AZ Member #
    369666
    Location
    Regina

    I'm looking at getting the AWE touring catback exhaust. Does anyone have any input on the fit of the 102mm tips vs. the 90mm tips in the Deval Carbon Fiber diffuser? Thanks!

  40. #40
    Established Member Two Rings Patrick_S5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 29 2014
    AZ Member #
    201989
    Location
    United States

    Thanks for the write up, I have a B8.5 and am having trouble getting the bumper to line up under the tail lights, any tips? I belive it may have something to do with the T40 mechanism.

    Also for ease of removing the bumper with rear sensors. Inside of the body behind the right tail light is the plug where all the wires go in. It's a brown clip that comes off easy, much better to take one plug off then a bunch of screws and individual plugs.

    I'll post pictures later today.
    6MT 2014 Prestige Estoril Blue s5
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