Engine Strengthening by a4darkness

[iamshayan]

I tried posting this in the stupid questions thread, I'm not sure if its in here but -
what's the ID of the DV hose. I cant seem to find any anywhere locally and would like to order online...

[Matt Devo]

I tried posting this in the stupid questions thread, I'm not sure if its in here but -
what's the ID of the DV hose. I cant seem to find any anywhere locally and would like to order online...

1" for the main hoses, 4mm for the vacuum line

[asdco]

ya, 3.5 mm ID is always a PITA to get over the barbed ends of check valves/T fittings. i have 4 mm (i think slightly smaller, like 3.9) ID silicone hose that i used to make a section for the N249 bypass. i've always wondered if using a larger ID hose would affect performance in any way, but i might run the ~4 mm ID hose all the way to my DV since im afraid my factory hose is going to rip again.

A quick question about tube size; On the fix for the 3-way valve, the valve is 1/4, the tee is 1/4 and the recommended tubing is 4mm? I would think it would be 6mm tubing which is just a bit smaller than the 1/4 barbs?

[igo4uga0586]

I have it currently with the 4mm tubing but it is too small. I have 6mm on order right now. So i would def use 6mm

[asdco]

This may possibly be of help.

Valve quantity 2-way, I don't believe it includes the breather valve
__________________________________________________ _________________________________________

Models: 1998 Beetle 1999 Beetle 2000 Beetle 2001 Beetle(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ APH AWV)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2002 Beetle 2003 Beetle 2004 Beetle 2005 Beetle(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ AWV AWP BKF BNU)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2003 Beetle Convertible 2004 Beetle Convertible 2005 Beetle Convertible(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ AWV BEK)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2003 Passat 2004 Passat 2005 Passat(1.8ltr. 4 cylinder: AWM)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2003 Passat 2004 Passat 2005 Passat(1.8ltr. 4 cylinder: AWM)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: X


Models: 2002 Audi A4 2003 Audi A4 2004 Audi A4 2005 Audi A4(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ AMB)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 3


Models: 2002 Audi A4 2003 Audi A4 2004 Audi A4 2005 Audi A4(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ AMB)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 4


Models: 2009 Audi A4 2010 Audi A4 2011 Audi A4 2012 Audi A4(3.2ltr. 6-cylinder+ CALA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2002 Audi A4 Quattro 2003 Audi A4 Quattro 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 2005 Audi A4 Quattro(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ AMB)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 3


Models: 2002 Audi A4 Quattro 2003 Audi A4 Quattro 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 2005 Audi A4 Quattro(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ AMB)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 4


Models: 2009 Audi A4 Quattro 2010 Audi A4 Quattro 2011 Audi A4 Quattro 2012 Audi A4 Quattro(3.2ltr. 6-cylinder+ CALA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2003 Audi A4/S4 Cabrio 2004 Audi A4/S4 Cabrio 2005 Audi A4/S4 Cabrio 2006 Audi A4/S4 Cabrio(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ AMB)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 4


Models: 2010 Audi A5 Cabriolet 2011 Audi A5 Cabriolet 2012 Audi A5 Cabriolet(3.2ltr. 6-cylinder+ CALA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2008 Audi A5 Coupe 2009 Audi A5 Coupe 2010 Audi A5 Coupe 2011 Audi A5 Coupe 2012 Audi A5 Coupe(3.2ltr. 6-cylinder+ CALA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2008 Audi A5 Coupe 2009 Audi A5 Coupe 2010 Audi A5 Coupe 2011 Audi A5 Coupe 2012 Audi A5 Coupe(4.2ltr. 8-cylinder+ CAUA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2005 Audi A6 2006 Audi A6 2007 Audi A6 2008 Audi A6(5.2ltr. 10-cylinder+ BXA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2009 Audi A6 2010 Audi A6 2011 Audi A6(5.2ltr. 10-cylinder+ BXA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2009 Audi A6 2010 Audi A6 2011 Audi A6(2.8ltr. 6-cylinder+ CCDA CCEA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2012 Audi A6(2.8ltr. 6-cylinder+ otto engine+ CHVA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2005 Audi A6/S6 Quattro 2006 Audi A6/S6 Quattro 2007 Audi A6/S6 Quattro 2008 Audi A6/S6 Quattro(5.2ltr. 10-cylinder+ BXA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2009 Audi A6/S6 Quattro 2010 Audi A6/S6 Quattro 2011 Audi A6/S6 Quattro(5.2ltr. 10-cylinder+ BXA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2009 Audi A6/S6 Quattro 2010 Audi A6/S6 Quattro 2011 Audi A6/S6 Quattro(2.8ltr. 6-cylinder+ CCDA CCEA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2012 Audi A6/S6 Quattro(2.8ltr. 6-cylinder+ otto engine+ CHVA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2011 Audi A7 2012 Audi A7(2.8ltr. 6-cylinder+ otto engine+ CHVA CNYA)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 2008 Audi A8/S8 Quattro 2009 Audi A8/S8 Quattro 2010 Audi A8/S8 Quattro(5.2ltr. 10-cylinder+ BSM)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2009 Audi Q5 2010 Audi Q5 2011 Audi Q5 2012 Audi Q5(3.2ltr. 6-cylinder+ CALB)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description:
Quantity on Car: 1


Models: 1999 Audi TT 2000 Audi TT 2001 Audi TT 2002 Audi TT( AMU)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description: grey
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 1999 Audi TT 2000 Audi TT 2001 Audi TT 2002 Audi TT( ATC AWP)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description: grey


Models: 2003 Audi TT 2004 Audi TT 2005 Audi TT 2006 Audi TT(4 cylinder)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description: grey
Quantity on Car: 2


Models: 2003 Audi TT 2004 Audi TT 2005 Audi TT 2006 Audi TT(1.8ltr. 4-cylinder+ AWP)
Part Description: check valve
Extra Description: grey
Quantity on Car: 1

[ADCS]

I need help tracking down an annoying vacuum leak that won't go away.

What I have replaced over the past few months...

- All of the hoses/check valves as indicated in Region 1 ,2 & 3 from this thread
- New TIP (OEM)
- 710N diverter valve
- New PRV
- 034 Motorsports silicone breather hose kit for late AMB with billet PCV. I have also used the alternate green retainer clip to secure the crank breather fitting correctly.


What the problem is...
After replacing the above , I am still having a rough idle once the engine warms up. There seems to be two scenarios where the idle acts differently.

Scenario #1...
When sitting at a redlight the idle will be normal then intermittently it will blip up 200 RPMs for 2 seconds then go back to normal. About 30 seconds later it will happen again, and again...

Scenario #2...
When sitting at a redlight, the idle will flutter up and down 1-200 RPMs then go back to normal for a few seconds then flutter again. Repeat.


What I have checked...
- I have verified all of the check valves that I have replaced are in the correct direction.
- I have tried disconnecting the MAF and the idle gets worse. So I don't think it is the MAF causing it.
- It is very difficult to remove the oil cap while the engine is on. When I do remove the oil cap the idle stutters.
- When I squeeze on the silicone hose that connects the PCV to the intake manifold the idle stutters.

I am thinking the billet PCV check valve may be defective. I removed it from the engine and disconnected it from the hoses and I can twist the two halves of the valve (see pics)

[old guy]

If the idle changes when you remove the oil filler cap that is a strong indication that your PCV is defective and pulling excessive vacuum.

[asdco]

Now I'm not the brightest candle that was ever lit but I assumed the the pvc is just a check valve releasing pressure built up in the oil pan, it doesn't depend on vacuum it just dumps pressure and oil mist into the intake. If you squeeze the hose the motor will stumble for a few seconds until the computer can readjust the fuel ratio because you alter the oxygen flow. Usually when removing an oil cap and theres a difference in the way a motor is running indicates bad valve seals or valve guides. There should be no pressure or vacuum in the valve covers.

[a4darkness]

Fletcher, you're on fire today. And of course it goes w/out saying... x2. Something is wrong here Adam.

While I've not yet used the 034 Billet Check and / or breather kit myself, most everyone who has isn't experiencing any issues. Seems pretty solid.
However, there have been a couple of instances in which ppl have run into fitment problems with the kit or this valve not working properly.
I'm assuming you've tested it to be sure it's performing correctly... air being moved into the 1" side flows freely out the 1/2" side and not vice versa.


I actually have an 034 Billet Check sitting right here so I figured snapping some pics for comparison could possibly provide an answer if in fact yours might have been improperly machined.
While overall, 034 does produce quality parts there is always a small percentage that don't turn out quite so perfect.







When reading your post concerning blips and whatnot, it reminded me of minor issues I've had due to old revision coil packs that weren't quite so good anymore but still didn't fail. Still, this doesn't seem like your issue right now.
The use of that one-time hose clamp on the base of the 034 hose raised an eyebrow... again, likely not your issue but maybe swap it out just in case. I just hate those.

If you do find the 034 Valve to be defective or just want to try out the OEM equivalent,it can be found for as little as $10 (MTC version).

PVC 035103245A 19mm

[a4darkness]

Now I'm not the brightest candle that was ever lit but I assumed the the pvc is just a check valve releasing pressure built up in the oil pan, it doesn't depend on vacuum it just dumps pressure and oil mist into the intake. If you squeeze the hose the motor will stumble for a few seconds until the computer can readjust the fuel ratio because you alter the oxygen flow. Usually when removing an oil cap and theres a difference in the way a motor is running indicates bad valve seals or valve guides. There should be no pressure or vacuum in the valve covers.

As you're new to AZ I'm going to take this in stride. Since you appeared in this thread announcing that you sell check valves similar to those available via US Plastics (which BTW have not been vetted by anyone), posted that giant list above (WTF was that?) and have yet to post anything anywhere else... it makes one wonder what your true intentions are. Ya know... just sayin.

Regardless, since you've asked and the last thing we need is misinformation ITT (and to save Old Guy the trouble)...

The block breather system perform two functions. For one, the controls are Federally mandated to reduce hydrocarbon emissions. The other function is that the systems allows for clean "purge" air to flow through the block when the manifold is under vacuum. If you disconnect the breather system and just blow off pressure either to the atmosphere or through a catch can you never completely purge the block of the built up hydrocarbon vapors. Another downside is that in cold weather it will take much longer to purge the block of any condensation that collects with every hot/cold cycle. In extreme cases it can turn your oil to a nasty foamy froth.

Further info/clarification:
Vacuum lines and check valves explained

[old guy]

I assumed the the pvc is just a check valve releasing pressure built up in the oil pan, it doesn't depend on vacuum it just dumps pressure and oil mist into the intake.

The PCV is an active block purge. It's connected to your intake manifold and at idle it pulls vacuum on the block. It's limited to the amount of vacuum it can pull by the opening passageways in the valve. If the valve is defective it can pull more vacuum than intended which is why it is hard to remove your oil cap. When the manifold is under boost the PCV closes and the block pressure gets relieved through the PRV (puck valve) into the TIP.

Edit: Thanks Thomas! Shoulda just let you handle it;-)

[ADCS]

Thanks Thomas and OG.
I will check my billet PCV against the pics you posted.

One other thing I just noticed, I can hear a hissing sound coming from the PRV which I just replaced a few weeks ago. It is coming from the body since it goes away when I put my hand over it. I am assuming the excessive vacuum in the block has damaged my brand new PRV ? And leaky PRV is probably causing my idle problem? =(

[a4darkness]

You bet.

From the PRV? Ooooo, that could have something to do with it as well... or like you said be a byproduct of the wonky 19mm crankcase check. Is it from the valve itself (as in the top is split/cracked) or one of the connections? Assuming it's the puck valve itself from your description above. Is it a newer rev 06A129101F like the one I swapped in or an older, all plastic one? If it's an older style and been sitting on a shelf for 5 years you might have killed the damn thing already. Probably not... but eh, certainly possible.

And yes, a leaky puck can cause a wonky idle. Look and see if it's spitting or not. My buddy's S4 was doing this for a while... nasty black stuff all over the back of the engine bay.

[ADCS]

I think it is leaking from the body of the PRV and not the hose connections. When I put my hand over the top of the PRV the noise went away...either I plugged wherever it was leaking or I just muffled the sound. I couldn't see a split seam but I will take a closer look tomorrow after work.

My original PRV was the older all plastic and the one I just put in is the metal variant. I am not sure if my old one was defective, I simply replaced it thinking it was old would probably be clogged and due for replacement and indeed it was pretty dirty when I pulled it off.

[a4darkness]

Hmmm, interesting. Keep us posted.

[waldo1324]

I think it is leaking from the body of the PRV and not the hose connections. When I put my hand over the top of the PRV the noise went away...either I plugged wherever it was leaking or I just muffled the sound. I couldn't see a split seam but I will take a closer look tomorrow after work.

My original PRV was the older all plastic and the one I just put in is the metal variant. I am not sure if my old one was defective, I simply replaced it thinking it was old would probably be clogged and due for replacement and indeed it was pretty dirty when I pulled it off.

no thats normal per Old Guy. I installed it in reverse and was instructed to turn it back lest my seals blast out the side of my block. it should vent a small amount of air through a small opening on the underside.

[Casius]

I've got my whole engine out of my car and starting on replacing all the little bitties now, this thread is really great. I believe that I have already replaced one of the #67s because it destroyed itself, so this is what I'm thinking of doing, if one of you guys could add anything that you think I'm missing I'd appreciate that greatly
I'm going to:
Install 034 breather hose kit
Replace all #50 with the US plastics
New SJP
New N75
New N249
Was thinking of getting the silicone EGR and "L-Hose" from 034 as well
Wash out/replace any existing tubing that's in bad shape
Looking at it now I should probably get another #67 and a #22 to complete the package

Thoughts?

[chad99]

Much like others have said thanks for this thread!

I just replaced half of my pcv system (waiting on more parts jet suck pump, check valves, the pcv was on backorder) not because it was broken (car already runs excelent) but because it seems like a much better idea than to spend the money on something stupid like rims or tires.

Also removing the breather hose from the block (the one with the green clip) along with the black rubber T that pcv sits in, was not as hard as everyone made it sound, I just moved the coolant tank out of the way and stuck my hand in there to remove it...took a while and my plastic breather hose did break off in the block but I got it all out..maybe having a beer helped too haha.

After removing all those one time use clamps im starting to get the hang of them now...they got nothing on me.

[boostedAvant]

.. Good work.

[Casius]

Ya my block breather disintegrated when I pulled it off, had to shop vac out all the pieces of plastic from the hole :(

[vjborelli]

Any negative side effects to replacing the larger check valve with the new Us plastics check valves?

[a4darkness]

Absolutely none, you're good to go.

[igo4uga0586]

Yupp. I did this ^^^

[a4darkness]

Cleaning The MAF

First, WTF is a MAF? Well it's short for Mass Airflow Sensor. The sensor is located inside a really intricate and complex section of black plastic pipe. Ok, not so much.
When air enters the intake, it travels through the airbox (or into a cone filter of sorts) and then passes through this section of plastic pipe.
Inside said pipe, there's a sensor that measure the volume of air passing through on it's way to the turbo via the TIP.
The MAF reports this volume to the ECU which it combines with other data to adjust the amount of fuel being fed to the injectors.

If you're experiencing low mileage, slight dips in performance or it's never been touched in ~92k miles... probably time to clean it.
This should take you all of maybe 45 min, the bulk of that being time for the MAF cleaner to dry. Super easy.

This method involves removal of the entire MAF housing, but not the sensor from the housing.
Reason being, it minimizes any potential damage to the sensor and allows for much better application of the MAF cleaner.

First and most importantly, you'll need:

CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor Cleaner


Yes, there might be other ways to do this but the MAFs in our engines are far more sensitive so skip the alcohol baths and use the CRC.

Past there, just some screwdrivers.

Start by pulling the air intake.
Remove the two screws in the front, then pull up on the back part to remove the rear assembly and last the front portion.




Unplug the MAF sensor wire from the top of the MAF housing and disconnect the TIP from the MAF as well.
Helps if you bend the heat shield out of the way.




There are only two screws holding the MAF in place, one up top here




and another one down below on the right. A short screwdriver and a magnet tool work well here.
Don't worry about the security torx on top of the MAF housing that hold the sensor in place. Those won't be touched.




And she's out!

Do keep in mind that your TIP which feeds [i]directly[/] to the turbo is now exposed.
The last thing you want is FOD so maybe drop a towel over this area just in case. God knows what kind of monkeys you've got crawlin around your garage!




From here, set up some shop towels on a stand of some kind and begin hosing down the MAF sensor inside the housing.
I was giving each side a nice coating for a few seconds, rotate and spray again etc. Probably hit each side about 4 times.




Here's the important part. Let the MAF dry. Completely. Yes, it dries fast but leave if for 20 min or so just to be safe. Then reassemble.



Lastly, be sure to add some dielectric grease to the MAF sensor plug. A clean sensor is kinda worthless if the connection isn't being made so well.




That's about it. See? Really nothing to it.
As for results when I started up the car and let it idle for a bit, it was pretty obvious the ECU was thinking for a moment as the idle characteristics were slightly different. Took a tad longer for the RPMs to drop as well.
But when they did, the idle was very smooth... a bit better than before. While driving, I noticed a very slight increase in off boost power and acceleration was smoother as well. Good stuff.
Haven't yet logged to see what the difference in grams per second might be but thus far I'm banking on an improvement overall. Hoping to see an increase in mileage too, will report back about both accordingly.

Huge thanks to Jace/BoostedAvant for answering all my stupid questions about this one. Herpaderp I can clean a MAF.
Side note, Jace has really been stepping up his photog game... be sure to take a look at his latest work from Wuste and Leavenworth. Turns out Calvin is handy with the steel as well. Euro eye candy galooore. Checkityo!

[-Thread Navigation-]

[boostedAvant]

You got it buddy! Nice work I don't mean to step on your toes at all here buddy, but I thought some more info on how a MAF actually works could be good info for people to have. Basically the element that is screwed into the "tube" that is the MAF housing is a heater grid of sorts. The computer tries to keep said element at the same temperature all the time, this is achieved by sending higher voltage to the "heater grid". As air flow increases over the element or "heater grid" (increasing RPM) the ECU sends more voltage to the element. Based on how much the ECU has to adjust voltage to the element to keep the element the same temperature, it is able to know how much air (where the g/s reading comes from) is going past the element.

[a4darkness]

This is why Jace is in charge.

[boostedAvant]

This is why Jace is in charge.

Hahahahah Wuste 2012 will go down in history as the best trip ever, until Wuste 2013 that is.

[nein-reis]

Hahahahah Wuste 2012 will go down in history as the best trip ever, until Wuste 2013 that is.

Best ever... yeah, while you were at the hard rock pool... Thomas and I got to see a different flavor of Vegas. lol

[a4darkness]

Best ever... yeah, while you were at the hard rock pool... Thomas and I got to see a different flavor of Vegas. lol

Could have been lifted straight out of a movie, wouldn't trade it for a day at the Hard Rock Pool ever. Hilarious.

[boostedAvant]

Best ever... yeah, while you were at the hard rock pool... Thomas and I got to see a different flavor of Vegas. lol

Hahahahah Sorry! Maybe if you knew how to build a car you could have been partying with us at the HR pool..

[nein-reis]

Hahahahah Sorry! Maybe if you knew how to build a car you could have been partying with us at the HR pool..

I partied with your mom instead.

[boostedAvant]

She's a blast to party with. How'd it go?

[a4darkness]

She's a blast to party with. How'd it go?

Brought everything but hose clamps.

[nein-reis]

She's a blast to party with. How'd it go?

Meh, although I'm pretty sure she gave Thomas the clap.

[boostedAvant]

What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas... Except for that..

[a4darkness]

2.0T/FSI Coil Pack Conversion

----

EDIT 01-05-16
Current coil pack are Red Tops -> 06E905115E (use these but keeping old info below in this post anyway)
If you don't prefer the boot cut method, there are OEM spacers that can be slightly modified to work as well. OEM Spacers 077905390

-----

As more than a few of you guys have already made the switch to the 2.0 coils and had positive results, it was only a matter of time before I did so myself. Jace's comments concerning improvements in off-boost power, overall smoothness and better MPG was the final convincing I needed to do so.

For some time now I've been running NGK BKR7EIX's (#2667) with no complains and positive results. So those were going to stay for the time being. Picked up a new set the old one's were due for a swap anyway.

I opted to remove the rubber sleeves from a set of old CPs so I dove into my emergency trunk bag for my extras. Turns out, the pantry was overstocked!



I had a full set of R's and two brand new D's that I bought last year when CP's dropped to ~$10. If you didn't own a B5 or never had the old rev CP's this might seem a tad excessive. Funny now, but back then pretty standard.

First, here's what the previous gen R's (upper) look like against the D's (lower). I never compared them closely and it's pretty easy to see the changes. I was more concerned about the rubber sleeves as they'd become my adapters and was ready to cut up my D's (which BTW are still looking/running fine after 2+ yrs). But as you can see, the sleeves on the R's are a bit shorter but lot thicker, especially at the base... perfect for this application.



Top down: R - D - 06H 905 115 A





Height / boot differences between the R D and FSI





Took some measurements,



and then started cutting. The rubber is pretty easy to get through, just use a sharp, exact instrument like this. Razor blade should be fine too.



Sleeves from the R's on the FSI's. I also added some dielectric grease to the base of the coil packs to aid in connection to the spark plugs.



Installing here. As you can see, the extra rubber sleeve provides both a perfect base outside of the chamber for the new CP and also completely fills the diameter of the opening.
Again, added dielectric grease to each of the coil pack plugs too.




Each one moved into place and made the same *click* sound when connecting with the spark plugs, no play or movement thus far.



Initially while driving around, I didn't feel much of a difference. Acceleration was smoother and idle was dead silent + dropped ~200rpm but not much more. Figured, eh maybe this one will be more about better MPGs.
But after a TBA + code clear (to reset fuel trims), and some driving around town things started to change a bit. There was a bit more pickup than before, albeit minor.

Yesterday I got on the freeway for the 1st time and was very surprised to feel a noticeable increase in off-boost power and what I'll call cleaner acceleration. It's like the mechanism of the engine has been refined and polished.
I was really stoked on it and can only imagine how these characteristics might be even more significant for those with more powerful setups. Bottom line, this mod is a win.

Since these CP's are here to stay, I'll now be picking up a set of Integrated Engineering's beautiful red adapters as well, especially when I finally get closer to going big turbo.

----

EDIT 01-05-16
Current coil pack are Red Tops -> 06E905115E (use these but keeping old info below in this post anyway)

----

As for the different coil packs out there, there are no differences - just numbers and colors. The most current at the time of this post = 06H905115A

RED MKV FSI Coil Packs - 06E 905 115
BLACK MKV FSI Coil Packs - 07K 905 715 F
BLACK MKV TSI Coil Packs - 06F 905 115 F (now supersedes to 07K)
BLACK MKVI TSI Coil Packs - 06H 905 115 A (*115B = stop sell in favor of A)

As for spark plug gap...
NGK (2667) BKR7EIX Iridium -> .032" gap from factory
NGK (3764) BKR6EIX-11 Iridium -> .044" gap from factory

I'm now considering trying out the 11's to utilize the increased gap. Wanted to see how the 7's felt first before making the jump.

Some might not agree with me on this one, but as I understand it the gap on Iridium / Platinum plugs is more finite in order for the plug to work properly. Hence, the gap from the factory is set far more accurately than coppers. Additionally, b/c the material on these plugs is more sensitive, there's a far greater chance in harming the plug tip when attempting to re-gap. But for most, that doesn't really seem necessary as the 11's are .044 out of the box, exactly what we need.

[-Thread Navigation-]

[daihashi]

yep, the only very obvious change to me is the smoothness that the coilpacks delivered. Everything else is hard to measure/gauge... since things like off boost power or the very minor increase in MPG may only be my perception. I've yet to go larger than the .04 gap that come on the NGK's that I'm running, but have been interested in trying to move closer to the .05 realm like diagnosticator runs on his.

With that said, these coils are one of my favorite upgrades on my car.

[evo_ski]

FYI you can simply slide the rubber portions off of the stock CP's rather than cutting them off. I simply used a flathead and a pick tool and stuck it underneath to help slide it bit by bit off. I also just switched from 6eix11's to 7eix11's and I think the 7's seem to be slightly better. However that could be attributed to my brand new cylinder head.... but that's a whole 'nother can of worms.

[a4darkness]

yep, the only very obvious change to me is the smoothness that the coilpacks delivered. Everything else is hard to measure/gauge... since things like off boost power or the very minor increase in MPG may only be my perception. I've yet to go larger than the .04 gap that come on the NGK's that I'm running, but have been interested in trying to move closer to the .05 realm like diagnosticator runs on his.
With that said, these coils are one of my favorite upgrades on my car.

I agree 100%. These things are VERY hard to accurately gauge. But the moment I hit the clover leaf on-ramp and laid into the accelerator there was a more robust pickup that was not present before. Nothing crazy, but it was there... even when the D's were brand new they never delivered like this. However, I really like the incremental differences made by mods like this cause they really add up. But I'd be the 1st to admit if it was a bust or nominal.

I already started digging around for an iridium plug that comes pregapped in the .05 range but was unsure if that was exceeding the reasonable limits. However, the more I think about this 11's seem like a better choice even now.

yep, the only very obvious change to me is the smoothness that the coilpacks delivered. Everything else is hard to measure/gauge... since things like off boost power or the very minor increase in MPG may only be my perception. I've yet to go larger than the .04 gap that come on the NGK's that I'm running, but have been interested in trying to move closer to the .05 realm like diagnosticator runs on his.
With that said, these coils are one of my favorite upgrades on my car.

FYI you can simply slide the rubber portions off of the stock CP's rather than cutting them off. I simply used a flathead and a pick tool and stuck it underneath to help slide it bit by bit off. I also just switched from 6eix11's to 7eix11's and I think the 7's seem to be slightly better. However that could be attributed to my brand new cylinder head.... but that's a whole 'nother can of worms.

First of all, really stoked you were able to save the Avant. Was pretty mortified to hear the initial news.

As for the cutting, I can't speak to the D's but the R's weren't sliding off so I just grabbed my OLFA cutter and sliced em up. I'm pretty sure they were attached to the plastic CP body, but maybe it was b/c of this goop on the underside? Who knows. Regardless, good tip.

[evo_ski]

Ahhh, that very well could be. I am not sure what revision my original ones were. But yeah, I agree whole heartedly with your review. A bit better throttle response and it just feels like the car has just a little bit more "grunt".

Yeah, I am incredibly relieved I got it back running again, I was definitely worried there for a minute.

There is no way I would have been able to keep my car running as well as it is and save it from its head gasket issues and other problems without members on here such as yourself offering up information and help on a variety of different topics. With all of the check valves I swapped out and with the new cylinder head my boost literally sits and camps out at 18psi now. Before it would bounce up, hit 18 and then jump on down to around 12 or so. And with all the info you laid out it is an incredibly easy thing to do.