Engine Strengthening by a4darkness

[a4darkness]

This thread has grown quite a bit so post #1 will be used as an executive summary + nav. The initial vac line + check valve content starts in post #2.

Thread Navigation

Installation of Major Vac System Parts
2002 Details + Part Numbers for Vac + Vent System

Boost Leak Test
Emissions Readiness Test
Throttle Body Alignment/Reset
Vag Com Setup + Info (Mac)

Combi Valve <-> N112 Fix + 16795 Code
Crankcase Breather Hose Info
DV Diverter Valve Swap + Info
Mitsubishi Evo DV Diverter Valve Install + Relocation

Gasket Swaps: Valve Cover + Cam Chain Tensioner
Motor Mount Install
Oxygen O2 Sensor Swap

N249 + N112 Explained + Vac Line Routes
N75 Explained

Stereo Wiring + Ground Wire Mount
Intake Manifold Removed Pics

PRV / Pressure Regulator Valve aka The Puck or Pancake Valve
MAF Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaning
2.0T/FSI Coil Pack Conversion

Injector O-Ring Replacement + Cleanup

==================

[a4darkness]

Global Parts List

If you're confused about what you're looking at, try printing out the labeled pictures and comparing them to your engine.
For myself, I need accurate visuals or my brain just will not process. While ETKA was a great start, labeling these pics really filled in the blanks.

Please remember that my A4 is an mid VIN split 2003. If yours is an 02 or early VIN split 03, there will be sizable differences (example PRV/Puck/Pancake Valve attached to the TIP).
If your A4 is like mine or an 04+, again there will be more changes (especially in the crankcase breather system, all the plastic piping under the intake manifold - this will be covered elsewhere ITT).

I've split the parts out by region to make the process easier.

Check Valves, Hoses and Vac Lines

Region 1 -> Directly Behind Manifold



# 19: 058 133 753 D (Suction Pump)
# 21: 058 133 784 AF (3-Way Angled Hose)
# 22: 07C 133 529 A (3-Way Check Valve) -> ONLY use OEM (generic 3-ways are prone to leaking, thx Waldo)
or US Plastics 1/4" Kynar® Check Valves#64174 and a US Plastics Natural PVDF Tee 1/4" Tube ID #T0-4NK
# 23: 058 133 394 D (2-Way Angled Hose)
# 24: 06B 103 493 D (Breather Hose)
# 50: 058 905 291 K (2-Way Check Valve) -> use US Plastics
# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'large check valve' -> use US Plastics 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves #64175
# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'WTF check valve' -> use US Plastics 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves #64175
# 68: 06B 103 493 C (vent hose)



# 19: 058 133 753 D (Suction Pump)
# 21: 058 133 784 AF (3-Way Angled Hose)
# 22: 07C 133 529 A (3-Way Check Valve) -> ONLY use OEM (generic 3-ways are prone to leaking, thx Waldo)
or US Plastics 1/4" Kynar® Check Valves#64174 and a US Plastics Natural PVDF Tee 1/4" Tube ID #T0-4NK
# 23: 058 133 394 D (2-Way Angled Hose)
# 24: 06B 103 493 D (Breather Hose)
# 50: 058 905 291 K (2-Way Check Valve) -> use US Plastics
# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'large check valve' -> use US Plastics 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves #64175
# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'WTF check valve' -> use US Plastics 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves #64175
# 68: 06B 103 493 C (vent hose)



# 19: 058 133 753 D (Suction Pump)
# 21: 058 133 784 AF (3-Way Angled Hose)
# 22: 07C 133 529 A (3-Way Check Valve)
# 23: 058 133 394 D (2-Way Angled Hose)
# 24: 06B 103 493 D (Breather Hose)
# 50: 058 905 291 K (2-Way Check Valve) -> use US Plastics
# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'large check valve' -> use US Plastics 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves #64175
# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'WTF check valve' -> use US Plastics 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves #64175
# 68: 06B 103 493 C (vent hose)

** Note **
After my the initial testing, igo4uga0586 tested and confirmed use of the 3/8" US Plastics check valves. Thanks man.


Region 2 -> Above Airbox, Far Left Passenger Side



# 50: 058 905 291 K (2-Way Check Valve) -> use US Plastics
# 55: 8E0 133 784 B (Angled Hose, "Y" style)
# 57: 1C0 906 517 A (N80 Vapor Canister Purge Valve) - Search for BOSCH 0280142353 *
# 58: 058 133 394 F (hose, right angled, crank case breather)
# 64: 058 133 784 (Reducer Hose) -> EDIT: Ignore red text on pic above - vac line was too small - either replace with OEM or heater hose

* N80 Valve Info

Vapors from the fuel tank are collected in the carbon canister. The N80 valve is used to regulate the flow of fuel vapors that are drawn into the intake manifold from the carbon canister. The N80 valve is operated by the ECU and is controlled by a duty cycle. The duty cycle will vary depending on engine temperature, oxygen sensor signal, load and speed. When the engine is off, a check valve stops the flow of vapors from entering the engine. This keeps the fuel vapors from entering the intake manifold and causing a rich mixture on restart.
If power to the N80 valve is interrupted or cut off completely when the engine is running, vacuum from the engine will open the check valve to allow tank ventilation.

Region 3 -> Below Throttle Body Hose + Intake Manifold, Right Side of Engine



# 50: 058 905 291 K (2-Way Check Valve) -> use US Plastics
# 50: 058 905 291 K (2-Way Check Valve) -> use US Plastics
T-Fitting, black plastic, barbed ends approx 1/4" ID not labeled but in between the 3 lines shown above, can't find a part number for this anywhere.
EDIT 10/2: will be replacing w/one from US Plastics + updating info accordingly


************************************-

Parts Organized by Where to Buy

GAP
http://genuineaudiparts.com/
# 19: 058 133 753 D (Suction Pump)
# 21: 058 133 784 AF (3-Way Angled Hose)
# 22: 07C 133 529 A (3-Way Check Valve) -> only if you really want to, a check valve + tee from US Plastics is a safe alt.
# 23: 058 133 394 D (2-Way Angled Hose)
# 55: 8E0 133 784 B (Angled Hose, "Y" style)
# 58: 058 133 394 F (hose, right angled, crank case breather)
# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'large check valve' -> can be subbed with 3/8" US Plastics
# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'WTF check valve' -> can be subbed with 3/8" US Plastics
# 68: 06B 103 493 C (vent hose)
# 24: 06B 103 493 D (Breather Hose)



US Plastics
# 50: 058 905 291 K (2-Way Check Valve)
x8 (buying an extra set just in case)
US Plastic 1/4" Kynar® Standard Check Valves, Item #: 64174
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=32234

# 67: 06A 133 528 D (non return / crankcase vent valve) aka 'large check valve' AND aka 'WTF check valve' -> use OEM or 3/8" US Plastics
x5 (depending on your year / engine configuration)
US Plastic 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=36844

# 22: 07C 133 529 A (3-Way Check Valve)
US Plastics 1/4" Kynar® Check Valves#64174
US Plastics Natural PVDF Tee 1/4" Tube ID #T0-4NK


T-Fitting, black plastic, barbed ends approx 1/4" ID, located under intake manifold

For the brass 'T', I actually picked one up at AdvancedAuto for about $3. Worked great! It was 1/4" OD and works well with 1/4" hose in that area.

Pics of said Tee under manifold
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post5875659



Silicone Vac Line from Verocious MotorSports 4mm ID
x10ft (more than enough)
EDIT: neglected to mention this here, I ordered 3.5mm ID (inner diameter) although 4mm ID is a more appropriate choice (here's what fitting the 3.5mm ID looks like).
Thanks to idiotec777 for bringing this to my attention.

Verocious Vacuum Hose, Platinum Cured Silicone
https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...ld-by-the-Foot



And for quick reference, Verocious' Vac Line + Hose Inner Diameter Chart (in case you're curious about hose sizes you might already have)



************************************-

* If for some reason you'd rather not use the US Plastics check valves, the lowest prices for the "#50 standard 2-way MTC check valve" (058905291K) can be found below. But you'll be wasting your $$.




+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Misc Breather Hoses, Part Numbers etc.



Top: 058133785B
Bottom: 06B103493M


EDIT: 06/28/2017

Hose Clamps -> Screw Down Hose Clamps aka Worm Drive Clamps or Fuel Hose Clamps

tl;dr Whenever possible use Fuel Hose Clamps

En route from Portland to Leavenworth WA for the annual drive in my buddy's B5 S4, we experienced some boost leak issues and were forced to hit up a Napa for supplies.
Had to pull the W/M lines and cap the inlet holes, wound up using Fuel Hose Clamps... they were infinitely better than Worm Drive.
There was about 1/4" of space on the end of each barb available to clamp the cap to the barb. It would not have held with Worm Drive, or likely shredded the rubber caps.
Yes they're more expensive but IMO very much worth it!

Fuel vs Worm


-----------
(old)

Never found a place online that's both inexpensive and sells the more durable Made in USA brands till now... Amazon Supply.
Just search for worm clamps and you'll find everything you need.

================================================== =============


-- 09-07-2010 04:47 PM Original Post --


I've wanted to start this effort for some time - replacing components and documenting the progress - and on Friday my Suction Pump decided to split in half. So it's go time.

For now, this thread will have nothing to do with some of the more complex topics seen on the 'zine (rods, pistons, custom software mapping, full builds etc.) but rather some basic fixes and updates to keep your engine running well. And mine too.

So we'll start with my most recent point of failure... the infamous Suction Pump (#19 below)



It actually split open all the way around. Not so good. Apparently this is a common failure point from time to time with this engine. Glad the temp fix was easy. And as it turns out, it felt like I actually gained a little bit of power back.


In case you're wondering, yes, I am a frickin Zip Tie Ninja. I just went out for a spin and hammered the car a bit and it's holding well. Plus, there's more pep than before. This leads me to believe that before the failure, it must have been attached well enough but split along the seam as I never noticed any degradation. So, take a good look at yours and see if it's starting to go.

I’m going to place an order for it and a few surrounding parts and then go section by section around the engine looking for weak points.

Seriously, this is ridiculous. Like I've got a black n white Lionfish in my engine bay




For some reason my brain goes a cold and foggy one whenever I look at ETKA illustrations. Always confuses the hell outta me. So, I'll be taking this opportunity to list them where applicable and try to match em up with pics like I've done above.



-----------------------------------------------

EDIT: 11-19-15

Props to jonan for taking the time to measure out and provide a pic of these hoses which reside under the intake manifold (and are the same if not roughly the same size as most hoses around the engine bay YMMV).

I just measured them and they are both 8mm

(remember that's ID aka Inner Diameter not OD aka Outer Diameter)




Pic of the hoses under the intake manifold for reference (red boxes were used to point out the check valves for another part of this thread)




Since these hoses are 8mm ID, this = ~.315" = ~ -6AN / 0.375" ID sized hose (.06 or ~1/20" difference, should be fine)
While other brands / styles of hoses can work, I can't speak to how they'll hold up to oil vapor in a super heated engine bay.
The Fragola hose that I've been using is still to this day in very solid shape (albeit a tad stiff).

Fragola 8600/8700 Series Parker Push-Lok Hose - Sold by the Foot (-6AN)
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

[dannyace]

Subscribing to this thread, should have lots of good strengthening techniques for my engine, especially since it just hit 100K miles.

[a4darkness]

After some digging around and conferring (thanks Shawn) it appears that these Check Valves *might* not stand up to temps generated inside our engine bays. Shit is hawt yo. So, I'm shelving these and going for option 2:

MTC Check Valves (OEM Replacement)
Part #: 058905291K
~$11- $15 (just Google or pick your fav parts site)



Now I just gotta figure out which check valves are okay to swap this one in for cause it appears there are different ones (and possibly less / more depending on the yr of your A4... mine is an '03).

Oh and the Check Valves.

Obviously, the specialty parts can't be substituted but I'm 50/50 on using the US Plastic Corp Check Valves as seen here:

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...=searchresults

[a4darkness]

Awww damn, that's a lot of pressure right outta the gate.

Vac Lines... that's also gotta happen shortly as well.

[dannyace]

Awww damn, that's a lot of pressure right outta the gate.

Vac Lines... that's also gotta happen shortly as well.

Haha, didn't mean to add pressure. Its just great timing that you started this thread as I just hit 100K miles and I need to be proactive about preventative maintenance. Also, thanks for taking the time to give details and take quality photos of the process.

[jursch2211]

Awesome thread! It's great to see someone taking care of their car without the complaints! Preventative maintenance FTMFW! Great Job

[a4darkness]

As for Vac Lines (just posted this in another thread but am adding it here as well)...

Braided OEM or appropriately sized and temp rated silicone should be the best bet.

As for silicone lines, here's what I've found thus far:

http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.php?category=8
http://www.hosetechniques.com/ultra-...e-foot-c-104_1
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...Cured-Silicone

Note: our engines use line 3.5 millimeters inner diameter (which = 0.137 inches)
EDIT: But 4mm ID is much easier and recommended.


Here's my theory...

Since braided rubber is the best OEM line and silicone the best aftermarket, I went hunting for braided silicone line, thinking this would be the Thunderdome of vac line, perfect for both high boost and longevity.

Unfortunately, I couldn't find the right match... only temp appropriate automotive use line that was too large (like for instance what Supra guys use) or appropriately sized but for medical purposes (which can't handle engine temps). So, unless someone has a source for temp appropriate 3.5mm braided silicone our options are standard silicone or braided OEM line FTW.

Personally, I'm switching to silicone (from one of the links above).

Related note, while others will disagree that it's necessary, I always secure all my vac lines with screw down hose clamps (never zip ties... even the one off the top of the DV).

[a4darkness]

Thank you.

A few years ago my car would have been on a flat bed headed to a shop. While building out an engine is pretty frickin epic, so is having enough baseline knowledge to fix your ride in the parking lot after work so you can start your Labor Day Weekend. Hopefully this thread will deliver enough to pass what I've learned thus far.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

God rid of that thing a long time ago. Now it can't break because there isn't one there!

[a4darkness]

Glad you brought this up David.

I'll be keeping and / or upgrading all the OEM components. If I find something more effective, cool. If not, I'll hunt down the best price on the OEM part.

God rid of that thing a long time ago. Now it can't break because there isn't one there!

Oh and FWIW, I'm certainly jealous I can't do the Vac Line + Emissions Removal like a lot of you fellas. But, I'm keepin it standard for now. Or perhaps OEM+ is more like it.

[Arclight]

Nice work, A4darkness! I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance so this thread is a winner. + imaginary rep point for you.

[a4darkness]

Nice work, A4darkness! I'm a big fan of preventative maintenance so this thread is a winner. + imaginary rep point for you.

Lets keep that imaginary rep on hold till I deliver, lol. Thanks Arclight. I'll do my best.

[A4SoftWalker]

Hahaaa, after my 4 month nightmare, I use the teensy tiny vacuum hose clamps on the back of my boost gauge. Always used one on the DV.

[a4darkness]

Hahaaa, after my 4 month nightmare, I use the teensy tiny vacuum hose clamps on the back of my boost gauge. Always used one on the DV.

God that must have been frustrating! Glad you got it sorted.

Speaking of hose clamps, it was suggested to me a while ago to try high pressure (fuel line style) hose clamps, rather than standard screw down clamps. The fuel line clamps have rounded edges and close evenly which would be safer on plastic pieces that the hoses are attached to.

[alfalfa164]

Speaking of hose clamps, it was suggested to me a while ago to try high pressure (fuel line style) hose clamps, rather than standard screw down clamps. The fuel line clamps have rounded edges and close evenly which would be safer on plastic pieces that the hoses are attached to.

I remember having problems with the fuel line hose clamps a while back. They would tend to loosen after 5-10k (I'm guessing due to vibration?). Happened more than once. Ended up switching back to the standard type, but probably could have gotten around the problem by using a bit of loctite.

That aside, just want to echo others' replies and give you props on the thread. Currently have a small leak coming from the suction pump and will be tackling the same project within the next few weeks.

[a4darkness]

Well, how ya like them apples. Good lookin out alfalfa. Nixing these suckers from the list as well.

I remember having problems with the fuel line hose clamps a while back. They would tend to loosen after 5-10k (I'm guessing due to vibration?). Happened more than once. Ended up switching back to the standard type, but probably could have gotten around the problem by using a bit of loctite.

[JoshDub]

Great thread man, keep up the good work.

[a4darkness]

Difference is a 3-Way Check Valve vs a 2-Way. In this instance, fixing the issues around my Suction Pump, the part number is 07C 133 529 A... a three way valve so the MTC Valve will not work.



And now that I've seen the valve, just realized I have an angle that shows it. Well, sorta. Enough to get a general idea. The 3rd opening attaches to a small hose that runs to another check valve behind the intake manifold.

[dodzy]

Difference is a 3-Way Check Valve vs a 2-Way. In this instance, fixing the issues around my Suction Pump, the part number is 07C 133 529 A... a three way valve so the MTC Valve will not work.



And now that I've seen the valve, just realized I have an angle that shows it. Well, sorta. Enough to get a general idea. The 3rd opening attaches to a small hose that runs to another check valve behind the intake manifold.

@ A4darkness. I've been looking at this thread for the last few days and am just amazed at the detail of posting in relation to fault finding & mods possible. I've a 02 A4 1.8T quattro that has developed a problem particularly surrounding a high idle after engine warm up. I've disconnected all the regular check valves and they all function as they should ( I believe - air blows one way in the direction of the arrow ) with the exception of 1. The one linked in your post #16 way back !

The air flows one way but also in the opposite direction, albeit not as freely. Do you think that this would cause the idle issue ?

Sorry for barging in but I figure that since you have an almost intimate knowledge with the set-up, you will know for sure :-)

Thanks

[lookaught]

Difference is a 3-Way Check Valve vs a 2-Way. In this instance, fixing the issues around my Suction Pump, the part number is 07C 133 529 A... a three way valve so the MTC Valve will not work.



And now that I've seen the valve, just realized I have an angle that shows it. Well, sorta. Enough to get a general idea. The 3rd opening attaches to a small hose that runs to another check valve behind the intake manifold.

Awesome thread, it's immensely helpful.

Can you explain how one goes about using the US plastics 2-way valves to duplicate the operation of this expensive little three way valve? There is so little room between the elbow that comes off the manifold --> and the valve --> and the hose the other side of the valve connects to that I can't visualize how to use the T fitting in line.

Also, does anyone have a part number for that long hose under the intake manifold that connects the 249 valve and the other valve to the back of the motor? It looks like _I_I___. It has a plug in the end toward the front of the motor and connects to near a check valve that is fed by the three way check valve above.

[Samulis]

Awesome thread, it's immensely helpful.

Can you explain how one goes about using the US plastics 2-way valves to duplicate the operation of this expensive little three way valve? There is so little room between the elbow that comes off the manifold --> and the valve --> and the hose the other side of the valve connects to that I can't visualize how to use the T fitting in line.

Also, does anyone have a part number for that long hose under the intake manifold that connects the 249 valve and the other valve to the back of the motor? It looks like _I_I___. It has a plug in the end toward the front of the motor and connects to near a check valve that is fed by the three way check valve above.

The hose you are looking for I believe is 058 133 784R. I just purchased one off eBay recently.

[h82loze]

The hose you are looking for I believe is 058 133 784R. I just purchased one off eBay recently.

That part number has been superseded by 06B133784AP. GAP has it currently listed at $28.52.

[Kwarner]

you sir, are a good man

[widgget]

replacing the f hose attached the the PVC valve this morning on the 5spd. i think there might be another leak behind the engine too since it's hissing pretty loud. i'm always waiting for something on the damn evap system to rip on my tiptronic with the higher boost but so far it's held up. i would rip it all out if i would be able to pass inspection like that but it would fail :(

/subscribing

[mjfrizz]

nice work...just replaced those two check valves and suction pump myself...idle is smooth as butter now

[a4darkness]

Turns out the Lionfish Zip-Tie-a-palozia is working fairly well.

Had a check engine light after the failure which was present for a few days. I fired her up yesterday and the CEL was gone. Today, the ECU seems to have adjusted and it was running a lot better than earlier this week. Obviously this is all incremental but I'm looking forward to starting to swap all these pieces out for new ones and see if there's any improvement.

The cool part about this project is that the positive results are measured in such a small spectrum yet one flawed piece and everything goes wonkey.

[a4darkness]

Okay, now to move to the other side of the engine as I have a rotting check valve over there as well.

Needless to say, it's not lookin so hot.



The Y shaped hose to the left of the valve looks okay, but the right angled hose on the right is old and yellow. So, we'll hit em all just to be certain.

[a4darkness]

The lines, valves and hoses on the back side of the engine are a snarled enigma of mystery. But pics always help and we're fortunate enough to have one.

Chris / MmmBoost was savvy enough to snap a high res pic. Props man. Posting a large pic unblemished first...

[a4darkness]

Wanted to get a few angles of the area behind the suction pump as it's a bit a tad confusing. Thankfully, Chris' shot provides some clarity here. Thanks again for posting that pic, really helped.

Obviously, some of these numbers are repeats from prior posts, just adding them for reference. Depending on the angle of a picture or if you move the cluster around a bit they almost appear to be in different places. So keep that in mind when you're looking at these shots.



I'm omitting #24 and #67 from this portion of the project as well as this gray valve (dead center in the pic below). It's located just over to the left of the cluster yet still behind the engine.




And here's the remaining two 'standard #50' check valves underneath the throttle body hose area, driver's side of the engine. Pretty easy to spot once you look down there.



Tomorrow I'll finalize my list and hunt around for good prices. Probably a good idea to get some sleep before trying to double check all of this as well.

[AvantJunkie]

Great job with this write-up! Just thought I'd point out another weak spot I've discovered throughout the years. In the pic below, the plastic T-fitting just above the lower check valve has been known to crack/break. Since it's in an area that is obscured from plain view, and nearly impossible to visually diagnose unless it's completely broken in two, I would recommend replacing it when doing the valves and lines. It caused me a serious headache in the past, so I'm just trying to save others from encountering the same issue.

[a4darkness]

Deleted old content to avoid people purchasing this item (brass tee for lines under manifold).

Great job with this write-up! Just thought I'd point out another weak spot I've discovered throughout the years. In the pic below, the plastic T-fitting just above the lower check valve has been known to crack/break. Since it's in an area that is obscured from plain view, and nearly impossible to visually diagnose unless it's completely broken in two, I would recommend replacing it when doing the valves and lines. It caused me a serious headache in the past, so I'm just trying to save others from encountering the same issue.

[AvantJunkie]

Good lookin out on the protip Brett. This is exactly the type of contribution I was hoping for ITT.

As I've not yet been able to locate this particular part / area in the ETKA (it hates me) I've got no OEM part number + diagram for the thread. But would you suggest something a bit sturdier like this brass fitting from ATP?

"1/4" Hose Tee, Brass 3 Way" Code: MIA-VCM-002

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=VCM

The brass T would definitely be the smart way to go to avoid the same thing happening down the road. I had literally just replaced all of my vacuum lines and check valves one month prior to this T fitting cracking, therefore I was scratching my head when I got the rough idle and vac leak code. I ended up finding it on accident when I reached under the intake mani and it broke in two in my hand.

[a4darkness]

< adds to list >

The brass T would definitely be the smart way to go to avoid the same thing happening down the road. I had literally just replaced all of my vacuum lines and check valves one month prior to this T fitting cracking, therefore I was scratching my head when I got the rough idle and vac leak code. I ended up finding it on accident when I reached under the intake mani and it broke in two in my hand.

Props man.

[AudiHere04]

That picture makes me happy all that shyt is gone

[tapA4]

Wanted to get a few angles of the area behind the suction pump as it's a bit a tad confusing. Thankfully, Chris' shot provides some clarity here. Thanks again for posting that pic, really helped.

Obviously, some of these numbers are repeats from prior posts, just adding them for reference. Depending on the angle of a picture or if you move the cluster around a bit they almost appear to be in different places. So keep that in mind when you're looking at these shots.



I'm omitting #24 and #67 from this portion of the project as well as this gray valve (dead center in the pic below). It's located just over to the left of the cluster yet still behind the engine.




And here's the remaining two 'standard #50' check valves underneath the throttle body hose area, driver's side of the engine. Pretty easy to spot once you look down there.



Tomorrow I'll finalize my list and hunt around for good prices. Probably a good idea to get some sleep before trying to double check all of this as well.

hah I hate to quote all of this.... but the grey that you "omitted" is that #67? I'm looking at the topical view and the behind view of the pictures and have seemed to confuse my self...

[a4darkness]

hah I hate to quote all of this.... but the grey that you "omitted" is that #67? I'm looking at the topical view and the behind view of the pictures and have seemed to confuse my self...

Dude, ask away... that's why I started this thread. Well, that and I needed to figure out what I'm looking at.

I thought the same at least three times so I went back to the car and shot a bunch of pics at different angles to be certain I was both tracing the paths correctly and matching the part numbers up right. Check this out...

[tapA4]

Wanted to get a few angles of the area behind the suction pump as it's a bit a tad confusing. Thankfully, Chris' shot provides some clarity here. Thanks again for posting that pic, really helped.

Obviously, some of these numbers are repeats from prior posts, just adding them for reference. Depending on the angle of a picture or if you move the cluster around a bit they almost appear to be in different places. So keep that in mind when you're looking at these shots.



I'm omitting #24 and #67 from this portion of the project as well as this gray valve (dead center in the pic below). It's located just over to the left of the cluster yet still behind the engine.




And here's the remaining two 'standard #50' check valves underneath the throttle body hose area, driver's side of the engine. Pretty easy to spot once you look down there.



Tomorrow I'll finalize my list and hunt around for good prices. Probably a good idea to get some sleep before trying to double check all of this as well.

Sorry, also, do you know what the part number for the gray valve "dead center" in the pic above is?

[a4darkness]

And I'm hoping the labeled check valve pic answers this as I'm not entirely sure which one you're referring to (multiple pics w/multiple valves). If not, just LMK. All good.

Sorry, also, do you know what the part number for the gray valve "dead center" in the pic above is?

[tapA4]

You are a magic man!! All I have to say on that! lol