Engine Strengthening by a4darkness

[a4darkness]

Ohhh, I thought you were referencing the WTF Valve off the back of the valve cover. Went back and re-read. Now I get it.

So then, it appears that this heater hose doesn't play nice when bent past 45deg. I'm thinking the Autozone stuff you picked up isn't quite as flexible as some of the silicone stuff. Hmmmm... I'll see what I can do about finding some more flexible heater hose.

[a4darkness]

The parts list in post #71 has been amended to not use heater hose for the short bending sections of hose. The parts are pretty inexpensive so it's no large loss. I'll look to use Heater Hose to try and replace some of the longer lines w/less curvature... probably this stuff here:

Verocious Silicone 1 Ply Heater Hose - Sold by the Foot
http://www.verociousmotorsports.com/...ld-by-the-Foot

[a4darkness]

And it's all been ordered. Now the exciting part... waiting for it to get here.

[a4darkness]

Obviously the failure of my suction pump needed to be addressed, but I'm also staring down the barrel of this...



Got some time, but still want to be sure I don't fail. Never fun, especially if you have to go and see the Smog Ref.

[a4darkness]

Good news, the first piece (literally) has shown up. ATP wins the who's gonna get parts to noti the quickest contest.

Sadly, it is highly anticlimactic.

[boy412]

So I know this ATP fitting didn't really work out. However...I was at my local shop recently and saw THIS product from OmegaTek:



I was originally drawn to their fly wheel spacers (in four fun anodized colors) then saw this little fitting on the shelf (I'm such a sucker for CNC machined parts). Anyway...I thought this might be a good fit for that spot? Comes in stealth black too.

[boy412]

So I know this ATP fitting didn't really work out. However...I was at my local shop recently and saw THIS product from OmegaTek:

I ended up contacting them about this part and they were very informative. I told them where I wanted to use this part (sent them one of the awesome photos in this thread) and they sent me a photo of their fitting next to a check valve. Checkit:



Looks like a winner to me. The next time I have $30 burning a hole in my pocket I think I'll pick one up! They make some pretty nice wheel spacers too...

[tapA4]

So just to confirm in my own mind, the valve with number 67 (large check valve) is in fact part number 06A 133 528 D?

[spector]

yes:

FYI, do NOT try and do what I did there with the heater hose. The angles don't work. I kinked the shit out of that hose when I tried it.

[tapA4]

yes:

FYI, do NOT try and do what I did there with the heater hose. The angles don't work. I kinked the shit out of that hose when I tried it.

Thank man! Yeah, I tried to do use heater hose on some other spots where angled hoses were used...didn't turn out too good lol

[tapA4]

Ok, so I just searched for the WTF valve....couldn't find anything...does anyone have a link where I can buy one of those WTF hoses?

[a4darkness]

Ok, so I just searched for the WTF valve....couldn't find anything...does anyone have a link where I can buy one of those WTF hoses?

Certainly.

ECS
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...ch/06a133528d/

GAP
http://genuineaudiparts.com/
(enter the number 06a133528d w/out spaces)

[spector]

Verocious was quick to send me hoses. I'm pretty sure they launched them out of a cannon.

In my experience, GAP took a while, but I think they are out in California, and I'm all the way in FL.... GAP is a great source if you're nearby. Prices are quite epic.

[a4darkness]

Oh yeah, I was just bored and posting.

GAP is actually Miramar Audi in San Diego. And when they're not slammed do ship pretty quickly. I can certainly wait three days to save almost $100 in parts, but most of the time they've shipped to me fairly quickly.

Verocious was quick to send me hoses. I'm pretty sure they launched them out of a cannon.

In my experience, GAP took a while, but I think they are out in California, and I'm all the way in FL.... GAP is a great source if you're nearby. Prices are quite epic.

Speaking of the hoses, I'm really curious to see the condition of what's under my hood right now. Can't be too good!

[tapA4]

Certainly.

ECS
http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4-...ch/06a133528d/

GAP
http://genuineaudiparts.com/
(enter the number 06a133528d w/out spaces)

Much appreciated!!

[a4darkness]

Props to you both for testing a verifying that heater hose (in that location) is not applicable.

Related note, just got an email that my parts have shipped from GAP!

US Plastics order as of 9am yesterday was in HODGKINS, IL, US
Verocious MS Vac Line as of 9am yesterday was in LAUREL, MD, US

I'm thinking the GAP parts will still win the race but who knows?

[a4darkness]

Looks like my order from GAP should be here tomorrow. So excited.

[PDX04a4]

man, great thread guys. i think next spring im going to take out my intake mani and go over all these stupid damn hoses and check valves. i replaced all the check valves (except the WTF check valve) last year so hopefully they are all still good. i also need to check that T, perhaps with a brass one like you have ordered, i didnt bother to check that thing it may be a source of slightly low vacuum and rough idle im experiencing right now.

the hose maze in our engine bays is ridiculous to say the least. i am not sure if you guys know about this website, but i have used it in the past for ETKA diagrams and part numbers, plus they have a small forum section as well with some tips.

www.vagcat.com
you have to sign up to access the "catalog" (the ETKA diagrams), but its easy and they dont bug you. they have diagrams for TONS of audi's, i highly recommend it for you guys if you are having problems. if you need help figuring out how to use the site, ill respond here for everyone.

one last thing, earlier this year i was having some funky readings on my boost gauge and poor performance in general and it was vacuum related (i was getting an unmetered air fault code), well turns out one hose has crumbling to pieces and it was impossible to tell. on the LEFT of your engine block is a hard pipe that runs from the pancake valve (in my case, if your pancake valve is next to your TIP than the hard pipe connects straight to your valve cover) to the front of the engine and then is connected to a elbow/bend hose that is DIRECTLY over the turbo and hooks up to the TIP. well the back side of this bend hose was completely crumbled down to the braids and had some holes in it, i dont know what prompted me to feel the hose, i think i accidentally grabbed it when i was replacing my rear coolant flange and felt the thing crumble. when i looked at the hose from the top/front it looked perfectly normal and not damaged. anyways, it was like a $10 hose and very easy to replace and fixed my engine code and helped performance. #15 in this image, part number 06B103493M

there are hoses all over the engine bay that can give you problems and they all will crack and fall apart over time.

[tapA4]

man, great thread guys. i think next spring im going to take out my intake mani and go over all these stupid damn hoses and check valves. i replaced all the check valves (except the WTF check valve) last year so hopefully they are all still good. i also need to check that T, perhaps with a brass one like you have ordered, i didnt bother to check that thing it may be a source of slightly low vacuum and rough idle im experiencing right now.

the hose maze in our engine bays is ridiculous to say the least. i am not sure if you guys know about this website, but i have used it in the past for ETKA diagrams and part numbers, plus they have a small forum section as well with some tips.

www.vagcat.com
you have to sign up to access the "catalog" (the ETKA diagrams), but its easy and they dont bug you. they have diagrams for TONS of audi's, i highly recommend it for you guys if you are having problems. if you need help figuring out how to use the site, ill respond here for everyone.

one last thing, earlier this year i was having some funky readings on my boost gauge and poor performance in general and it was vacuum related (i was getting an unmetered air fault code), well turns out one hose has crumbling to pieces and it was impossible to tell. on the LEFT of your engine block is a hard pipe that runs from the pancake valve (in my case, if your pancake valve is next to your TIP than the hard pipe connects straight to your valve cover) to the front of the engine and then is connected to a elbow/bend hose that is DIRECTLY over the turbo and hooks up to the TIP. well the back side of this bend hose was completely crumbled down to the braids and had some holes in it, i dont know what prompted me to feel the hose, i think i accidentally grabbed it when i was replacing my rear coolant flange and felt the thing crumble. when i looked at the hose from the top/front it looked perfectly normal and not damaged. anyways, it was like a $10 hose and very easy to replace and fixed my engine code and helped performance. #15 in this image, part number 06B103493M

there are hoses all over the engine bay that can give you problems and they all will crack and fall apart over time.

I will say this! Number 2, 5, and 6 were all ABSOLUTELY REDIC to replace! Especially number 2

[PDX04a4]

I will say this! Number 2, 5, and 6 were all ABSOLUTELY REDIC to replace! Especially number 2

yes, you really need to be careful when replacing it as well, that hose tends to break and crumble (happened to me at the connection between 2 and 5 thankfully) and chunks of plastic can fall into the oil filter housing and cause problems. you have to be careful that nothing falls in there while you are replacing that elbow hose, thats why its better to actually remove the intake mani to get to those hoses. i tried reaching my arms and hands in there to change/fix the hose, ending up saying screw it and took it to my local audi indy shop. at that point i didnt have much experience in the engine bay, now i would pull the intake mani and do it all myself.

[tapA4]

yes, you really need to be careful when replacing it as well, that hose tends to break and crumble (happened to me at the connection between 2 and 5 thankfully) and chunks of plastic can fall into the oil filter housing and cause problems. you have to be careful that nothing falls in there while you are replacing that elbow hose, thats why its better to actually remove the intake mani to get to those hoses. i tried reaching my arms and hands in there to change/fix the hose, ending up saying screw it and took it to my local audi indy shop. at that point i didnt have much experience in the engine bay, now i would pull the intake mani and do it all myself.

Thankfully, nothing fell in. I wasn't very experienced when changing it too. I had 3 engine diagrams while changing it. Took me 7 hours..but once I got rolling things came together.

[a4darkness]

Thankfully, nothing fell in. I wasn't very experienced when changing it too. I had 3 engine diagrams while changing it. Took me 7 hours..but once I got rolling things came together.

That one freaks me out a bit cause of the 'stuff falling in' part. Should be interesting once I make it there.

[a4darkness]

turns out one hose was crumbling to pieces #15 in this image, part number 06B103493M

Went and took a look at mine, she's okay. But considering it's location, I can see how this hose could be in poor shape. Lots of heat being generated in there. Check your hoses fellas!

[a4darkness]

Yeah, with 1+ you're obviously not only running higher boost but also creating a lot more heat in the engine bay.

Thanks for your contribution. Once I get this first round of parts in, I'll start going hose by hose. But maybe I'll check this one sooner than later.

Excellent call on VagCat. Used that for a few years and finally got around to getting an Intel Mac so now I can run ETKA in Parallels. It's pretty sweet. If anyone is reading this and interested in learning more, take PDX's advice and get registered over there. It's a bit wonky but surprisingly easy once you've got it figured out.

[BASARAB]

instead of using vag-cat u can also download ETKA to your computer

[Hamotee]

instead of using vag-cat u can also download ETKA to your computer

links to a download?

[a4darkness]

^^ lets keep that to PMs please. TIA fellas.

[dougyfresh]

Has this turned into the new 'how do I remove my vacuum line hoses' thread?


really?

[tapA4]

Has this turned into the new 'how do I remove my vacuum line hoses' thread?


really?

I think it's turned into a jumald of information! hah (that has helped me a lot!)

[a4darkness]

I was shooting for something a bit more robust than that.

[dougyfresh]

I was shooting for something a bit more robust than that.

Sorry. Its not working.

"engine strengthening" does not = new vacuum lines and other b/s.

'engine strengthening' does = http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/282397

in my eyes

[PDX04a4]

Sorry. Its not working.

"engine strengthening" does not = new vacuum lines and other b/s.

'engine strengthening' does = http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/282397

in my eyes

there is some useful info in here for people who need/want to maintain their OEM vacuum system (and as old guy has explained in prior threads, it DOES serve a purpose other than continually being a source of headaches). there are quite a few vacuum system/hose threads but the main central one is about removing all that shit and not replacing it. plus there arent any real P/N's in there or places where you can order the stuff like there is in this thread. its helpful for people looking for this stuff and needing those P/N's. also the pictures are helpful visualizing diagrams and getting your hands in there.

sometimes i dont think people realize how much money they can save by just popping the hood and pulling out a hose yourself and replacing it. some of these things are in hard to reach places and a major PITA to fix, a lot arent and can be easily changed. dont be afraid to get in there and get your hands dirty and bloody (lord knows you'll get scrapes and cuts trying to squeeze your hands into those tight spaces). i have saved hundreds of dollars doing just basic engine maintenance like this.

one last thing: fuck those goddamn one time use hose clamps.

[a4darkness]

there is some useful info in here...

Thank you. Will continue my thread in the same manner.

one last thing: fuck those goddamn one time use hose clamps.

Yes, damn them all to hell.

[spector]

FWIW, I grab the rounded ends of the one time hose clamps with needle nose pliers and twist them until the thing unravels. It's a fitting end for such a bastardy piece of hardware.

[dougyfresh]

one last thing: fuck those goddamn one time use hose clamps.

McMaster Carr sells them and they also sell a tool to remove them. The clamps are clean looking (compared to a regular hose clamp) and are inexpensive to replace when buying in bulk from McMaster Carr. They are relatively easy to remove with a screwdriver.

Search vacuum lines and my screen name and you'll find a few posts of mine from a few years ago where I list out the p/n and show the tools McMaster Carr sells.

[spector]

McMaster Carr sells them and they also sell a tool to remove them. The clamps are clean looking (compared to a regular hose clamp) and are inexpensive to replace when buying in bulk from McMaster Carr. They are relatively easy to remove with a screwdriver.

Search vacuum lines and my screen name and you'll find a few posts of mine from a few years ago where I list out the p/n and show the tools McMaster Carr sells.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#pinch-clamps/=8zjkri

[boy412]

Search vacuum lines and my screen name and you'll find a few posts of mine from a few years ago where I list out the p/n and show the tools McMaster Carr sells.

Here's the thread/post Doug is talking about. The clamps he references are a little small for the 4mm Verocious MotorSports silicone vacuum tubing. I'd suggest the next size up.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...08#post2110108

I agree the one-time clamps look nicer. There is certainly a technique to removing those little ******s...but once you figure it out they aren't too difficult. I remember the first time I did this...I ended up attacking them with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool. Yikes! The Oetiker tool makes short work of them and should be in every VW/Audi owners' toolbox.

[a4darkness]

I was thinking it might be a boost leak.
Do you think thats why 710n does not make any "woosh" sound ? The old one (710) did.
I didnt install mine in reverse. (I think. Gotta double check that.)
You have s4 b5 motor mounts correct ?
How do you like them, if you can give me a link that would be great. I plan to change my mounts since one of them looks like it leaks a little.

Your old DV shouldn't have been making any noise at all... nor should the 710n for that matter. It's certainly possible it was leaking a bit. I would check your actual vs requested boost unless you've got a boost gauge of course. Oh and standard vs reverse install is more of a preference, but I'm in the camp of running a 710N in reverse, at least for moderate boost levels.

I can't reiterate this enough... new motor mounts have made a staggering improvement on how my car rides. Granted, mine were certainly blown and in desperate need of a swap so your results may vary. Guess I got lucky and figured one part out that made a huge difference w/out making a huge hole in my pocket (so to make up for it, I bought some coil overs!)

Here's the thread/post Doug is talking about:
I agree the one-time clamps look nicer. There is certainly a technique to removing those little ******s...but once you figure it out they aren't too difficult. I remember the first time I did this...I ended up attacking them with a cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool. Yikes!

I think we all know where I stand on the one time hose clamps. HA HA HA

[Dan[FN]6262]

ya

[a4darkness]

Wow dude. Harsh.

Threads like this will keep noobs from asking ridiculous questions in threads just like the one below, hence why I started this. And since I have asked many a ridiculous question, it seemed a fitting project for myself as a Stage II Noob. Okay, maybe Stage II+... when my vac lines and other b/s are working properly.

Sorry. Its not working.

"engine strengthening" does not = new vacuum lines and other b/s.

'engine strengthening' does = http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/282397

in my eyes