Engine Strengthening by a4darkness

[aran]

Yep, pretty much the greatest thread ever, thanks to all that contributed. I have a 2005 Passat 4mo 1.8 mt so I poke around here as well(and passatworld), and this thread is like the bible to me.

[jonan]

Ten will cover your whole engine. Just be sure to remember which direction the valves face when you install them. Screwed one of those up, code a nifty little evap code out of it.

The brass T valve I ordered seemed a bit small for that opening underneath the manifold (hence why I didn't mention it above). Thought I spoke to that somewhere in the first few posts. If not, that's my bad and I'll amend it. (EDIT: I didn't, now it's been done.) The hose under the manifold has a larger inner diameter. It should work, but you just have to be sure to screw the clamp down tight.

Reference on the T-Valve here:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post5875659



EDIT #2: Going back thru my notes, the brass T was entirely too small. You might want to cancel that order. 1st post has been amended.




As for the vac line, 3.5mm ID is fine. So is 4mm. Silicone is pretty stretchy and if need be you can always heat up the end with a heat gun or hair dryer a little bit to get it going. But usually just a little spit on the end will do it. IIRC, there's only one nub besides the top of the diverter valve that has a relatively large barb on it like this check valve. So, you might have to work em a bit but silicone is pretty pliable and easy to reinstall.



As for the difficulty part, some are worse than others. I did most everything piece by piece, section by section. Find a hose, eyeball it and be sure you can get the one time hose clamps off okay, cut a new piece of hose to fit and go from there. I did much of the cluster behind the manifold at once so that part makes it easier. But really when you're pulling one line off at a time and replacing it, kinda makes it a lot easier.

ahh, shit i just ordered this thing after reading pages 1-5....so it doesnt' work???

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=VCM

[a4darkness]

Should have deleted that out of the thread a long time ago, just did so now.

I can't recall the exact inner diameter size of the hoses down there (they've long since been replaced with aftermarket) but here's the full tee from list US Plastic.
Be sure to go with a Natural Kynar Tee as they are appropriately rated for this application.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...lickid=popcorn

[customa4]

It's been a while for me as well but I believe I went with 4mm on the hose and that was good. It's so cheap that when I ordered it I grabbed a couple feet of 4 and 5 just to be safe.

[a4darkness]

Yes, the 4mm ID vac line is the way to go. However we're looking for the ID of the hose attached to this tee (to the left of the top red square) underneath the intake manifold.

[jonan]

is this the right size for the tee?

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...7627&catid=551

[jonan]

Yes, the 4mm ID vac line is the way to go. However we're looking for the ID of the hose attached to this tee (to the left of the top red square) underneath the intake manifold.

i measured the ID of these hoses as 8mm and order up some 8mm silicone hose to replace them...on saturday i'm gonna have some fun going to town with all of the 12+ year old hoses in my car...taking my spiderco knife to those bitches...

[a4darkness]

Nice work man. Just to confirm, that's 8mm ID correct? Will update the 1st post with hose info accordingly.

[jonan]

Nice work man. Just to confirm, that's 8mm ID correct? Will update the 1st post with hose info accordingly.

positive, i ran into problems trying to get the 4mm hose over the barbed end that protrudes out of the firewall...in fact, the hose i ordered should be in my mailbox today so i'll snap side-by-side photos of the ID of the hoses when i get home from work today...

i measured the ID of that section of hoses 10 times to appease my OCD before i ordered the hoses and i'm an idiot because i ordered 15 ft worth of the 8mm hose...

[jonan]

not the best photo due to the angle, but i just measured them and they are both 8mm



here is what's left of two injector seats before i called it a night...the gunmetal powder coat on the manifold looks a lot nicer in person, bad lighting...and i suck at photography...

[jonan]

btw, i've been trolling through this thread for the past three months in preparation for this job...everything was SOOOOOOOOOooo much clearer in terms of hose routing once i took the manifold off and poked my head around...

i'll take a video of the entire vacuum/pcv system this weekend because seeing it live from an infinite array of angles, in addition to staring thousands of detailed still photos for hours on end, is what finally made all of these photos i've been staring at click...

i had a epiphany, a stroke of genius where a light went off in my head and the bits and pieces of hoses that appear to be a tangled cacophonous universe of mangled decaying rubber and check valves that live in nine dimensions simultaneously suddenly became a singularity that i understood with e=mc^2 clarity...

a4darkness, you are my Einstein...

[a4darkness]

It's really something when the light goes on and you can finally make sense of it right? So much to learn about these stellar German machines.

Props for being so diligent about making a contribution, your pic and info have been added to the end of Post #2 with all the goodies.

[jonan]

It's really something when the light goes on and you can finally make sense of it right? So much to learn about these stellar German machines.

Props for being so diligent about making a contribution, your pic and info have been added to the end of Post #2 with all the goodies.

so i was up since 7am changing out all the vacuum lines and did the heater core hoses and the l shaped hose that connects the coolant flange to the hardpipe since i was already in there...didn't finish until 4:30pm...

took a test drive and all was great...until i got a CEL...

the shitty part is that the car runs awesome and idles fine...the only thing i can think of is that some of the wires on the fuel injector harness were exposed from the insulation cracking when i moved it out of the way to take the manifold off...

i have to go to autozone tomorrow morning to pull the code since i don't have a VAGCOM yet...FML, i hope it's just a leak on the hose i didn't tighten or something...

anyone here have their car throw a CEL after installing the 034 breather kit?

[jonan]

so i just pulled code p0441 which i believe is related to the n80 valve?

but, i was soooOOOO fucking tired, hungry and dehydrated yesterday that by 2pm i was rushing and not thinking clearly, found out this morning that i didn't tighten the clamps on the 3-way breather or any of the clamps for the hoses that connect to the n80 valve...

cleared the CEL hoping that it won't return...car runs fucking great though!!!

[jonan]

FML, CEL came back after a one hour trip, came on as soon as a came to a stop light and was idling for a bit...didn't turn on while on the freeway at speed...same thing happened last night...

so i popped the hood, took a closer look at my n80 valve and put my ear next to it to see if it was clicking...i flicked it with my finger and noticed that it started splitting where the two parts of the valve are joined together...

i used a bit of force to pull it and it split in half!!! looks like i need to order a new n80 and install it next weekend...hopefully that will clear my p0441 code for good cause i don't want to mess around with the rest of the EVAP system...

[Charles.waite]

It likely will. Those n80s are junk but at least they're somewhat cheap.

[jonan]

is there a reason the b6 n80s are so much more expensive than the b7 ones? the b6 one is like $160 oem or $60 bosch and the b7 one is like $20???

[old guy]

is there a reason the b6 n80s are so much more expensive than the b7 ones? the b6 one is like $160 oem or $60 bosch and the b7 one is like $20???

Search for posts by Waldo1324. I believe he successfully used a B7 N80 to replace a B6 N80.

Edit: Just found this. Clicky click®

[jonan]

Search for posts by Waldo1324. I believe he successfully used a B7 N80 to replace a B6 N80.

Edit: Just found this. Clicky click®

can i assume this is oldguy approved??

[old guy]

can i assume this is oldguy approved??

LOL!! Since I haven't personally tried it myself I dunno, but if CP likes it I can give it this:

[jonan]

so my p0441 tribulations continue...replaced the n80 valve, cleared out my codes and went for a drive, it came back...FML

scoured all of my hoses and checked the direction of my check valves, all seemed good...pulled my intake and realized that i never reconnected the SAI hose and it was just hanging there...

cleared my codes again and hopefully that takes care of the issue; however, i'm not sure that leaving the SAI hose disconnected will throw code p0441???

on a side note, it seems that the combi valve is another possible culprit to throwing p0441...does anyone know the ID of the hose that connects the combi valve to the hardpipe (circled in red)



i realized i didn't change that out while i was pimping out my vacuum lines with silicone...it is completely possible that i cracked that hose while trying to install the 034 hoses that connect to those hard pipes...i don't recall 034 having a solution for that hose circled above...

in any event, this was a great exercise as i know sooo much more about how all of those hoses are routed...if you haven't done this yet DO IT!!! boost comes on much stronger and car purrs like a kitten while idling...my PODI gauge holds strong around 18-19 PSI whereas before i did all my lines i was around 15-16 PSI...vacuum holds steady at 22 whereas before it fluctuated between 19-22...

[jonan]

ugh, damn cell came back while i was driving around getting some last minute ingredients for thanksgiving...but i think i finally found the problem (third times a charm)...the nipple on the combivalve that connects the vacuum hose to the valve under the manifold came out when i tugged on the hose...the hose was obviously attached since it was clamped to the nipple, i'm surprised i didn't notice this when i changed the original vacuum line out this past weekend...

so i definitely need a new combivalve...however, will a bad combivavle will throw CEL p0441???

happy turkey day everyone!!!

[old guy]

Will a bad combivavle will throw CEL p0441???

I really don't think so. The SAI and Evap systems are completely separate. When the ECM cycles the N80 it expects to see a change in the A/F ratio as measured by the front wideband O2 sensor. If after several test cycles it doesn't measure a difference it assumes something is preventing the hydrocarbon fumes from reaching the intake manifold. Thus an "Incorrect Flow" DTC.

[jonan]

back to the drawing board then....i'm totally at a loss as to why it keeps pulling this code? perhaps i cracked the hard lines that connect all the hoses together??

[old guy]

back to the drawing board then....i'm totally at a loss as to why it keeps pulling this code? perhaps i cracked the hard lines that connect all the hoses together??

Make sure all of your Evap check valves are flowing in the correct direction.

[clr]

Amazing thread, thanks so much for all the great info! I'm going to tackle the PCV system/check valves in my b5.5 passat soon. I saw the recent update regarding the Fragola hose to replace hoses under the intake manifold, how many feet of that hose should I buy? Compiling a list of things to order and want to make sure I get enough. Thanks!

[jonan]

Amazing thread, thanks so much for all the great info! I'm going to tackle the PCV system/check valves in my b5.5 passat soon. I saw the recent update regarding the Fragola hose to replace hoses under the intake manifold, how many feet of that hose should I buy? Compiling a list of things to order and want to make sure I get enough. Thanks!

i bought ten feet of 8mm ID silicone hose and have a ton left over, i'd say order five to six feet of hose...

[chrisdeaner]

So I have a separate thread where darkness is helping me with some issues but I'm stuck on replacing the "#1" Check Valve shown in this thread. The US Plastics valve is too short to fit in the existing piping. I saw at the end of this post a picture showing what I think is this valve with the small right angle tube replaced with something fabricated but can't seem to find info on what was used. Any ideas?

[jonan]

So I have a separate thread where darkness is helping me with some issues but I'm stuck on replacing the "#1" Check Valve shown in this thread. The US Plastics valve is too short to fit in the existing piping. I saw at the end of this post a picture showing what I think is this valve with the small right angle tube replaced with something fabricated but can't seem to find info on what was used. Any ideas?

so that plastic piece on the snorkel that connects to the n80 valve broke and my n80 is not fixed to the snorkel anymore...that gave me a few mm of play, plus i very gently bent the metal hoses towards the #1 CV...

that being said, i did notice that the replacement "L" shaped hose to the right of the #1CV was a little longer that the one the originally came with my car so i didn't have to move things around much...i'll try to snap a photo tomorrow morning...

[Charles.waite]

I just took the n80 out of its rubber sleeve and stretched it to fit. Never had any issues in a few years.

[jonan]

So I have a separate thread where darkness is helping me with some issues but I'm stuck on replacing the "#1" Check Valve shown in this thread. The US Plastics valve is too short to fit in the existing piping. I saw at the end of this post a picture showing what I think is this valve with the small right angle tube replaced with something fabricated but can't seem to find info on what was used. Any ideas?

here you go as promised...



don't mind the loose clamp, stupid thing keeps coming undone because of the heat from the turbo...

[chrisdeaner]

Thanks guys - will give this a shot this week. CELs came back so need to pull those as well and prob get the rest of the check valves done.

[chrisdeaner]

Pulled the codes, somewhat the same so going to go ahead with more check valve swap and see where that gets me.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Saturday, 20 August 2016, 09:14:27.


Chassis Type: 8E - Audi A4 B6
Scan: 01,02,03,08,09,0F,11,15,16,17,18,36,37,45,46,55,56 ,57,65,67,69,75,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Coding: 0016751
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 749B5FD357A3
5 Faults Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16684 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0300 - 008 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16685 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0301 - 008 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
17519 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Regulation: Bank 1: System too Lean
P1111 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
17544 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1136 - 001 - Please Register/Activate
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[chrisdeaner]

OK so fab'd up a hose with 1/4" heater hose to connect the first check valve, similar to what jonan did. Prob could've gone with 5/8" as it was a tight fit but this isn't going anywhere.



Also replaced the #3 check valve in this thread with a US plastics. I had seen in earlier posts in this thread that #s 2&4 in that thread I linked to could also be replaced with US plastics but now I'm not 100%. Are these their own part # to be replaced with OEM or can they be US plastics? Anyway, took it for a spin after all this and it seemed to be much more responsive and much quieter/smoother at idle. I don't have a way to get the boost psi (unless I can pull that with VCDS-lite?) so can't say for sure but seems to be better. We'll see if the CEL/oil pressure light comes back.

Lastly, while poking around after the 2 installs I noticed the end of this pipe that appears to be threaded but has nothing attached to it... Any ideas? This is directly to the top right of the valve cover cover (whatever the plastic thing is called with the Audi logo on hit held on by the three plastic "screws" of which I've lost 1) and right near the suction pump...

[old guy]

That is the schrader valve on the end of your fuel rail. Usually it has a black plastic cap on the end of the rail to protect the valve. Clicky click®

[chrisdeaner]

That is the schrader valve on the end of your fuel rail. Usually it has a black plastic cap on the end of the rail to protect the valve. Clicky click®

Thank you OG!

[chrisdeaner]

Ugh, CEL and oil pressure warning back again:

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Coding: 0016751
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 749B5FD357A3
3 Faults Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17519 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1111 - 002 - Please Register/Activate
17544 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1136 - 001 - Please Register/Activate
Readiness: 0000 1001

Will keep digging.

[jonan]

Ugh, CEL and oil pressure warning back again:

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 8E0 909 518 AF
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0002
Coding: 0016751
Shop #: WSC 63351
VCID: 749B5FD357A3
3 Faults Found:
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
17519 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1111 - 002 - Please Register/Activate
17544 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1136 - 001 - Please Register/Activate
Readiness: 0000 1001

Will keep digging.

are you getting the red oil can light of death??? i'd do an auto-rx flush...

[chrisdeaner]

are you getting the red oil can light of death??? i'd do an auto-rx flush...

Assuming this is the blinking one that fills the center display panel in the instrument cluster? If so then yes it is. It comes on after 15-20min of driving and only when off the gas/system is in vacuum (quickly goes away once back on the gas). Based on the above codes I feel like this is going back to the state my car was in for this thread where I was getting these codes after replacing the PRV pancake valve. Old Guy recommend replacing the PCV valve which I didn't get a chance to do before the car died on me on the freeway which lead to the suction pump getting replaced and no issues for quiet a while (6mos+) until the latest go around.

I'll have to look into the auto-rx flush. I have another thread going that was specific to looking for someone to help with a pressure test and then got more into the details of what I was seeing. Someone in that thread mentioned the oil pump's pickup tube screen can get clogged which could be contributing to this but I haven't had a chance to check into cleaning/replacing that as well as seeing if that's in fact a worthwhile task to undertake.

[jonan]

Assuming this is the blinking one that fills the center display panel in the instrument cluster? If so then yes it is. It comes on after 15-20min of driving and only when off the gas/system is in vacuum (quickly goes away once back on the gas). Based on the above codes I feel like this is going back to the state my car was in for this thread where I was getting these codes after replacing the PRV pancake valve. Old Guy recommend replacing the PCV valve which I didn't get a chance to do before the car died on me on the freeway which lead to the suction pump getting replaced and no issues for quiet a while (6mos+) until the latest go around.

I'll have to look into the auto-rx flush. I have another thread going that was specific to looking for someone to help with a pressure test and then got more into the details of what I was seeing. Someone in that thread mentioned the oil pump's pickup tube screen can get clogged which could be contributing to this but I haven't had a chance to check into cleaning/replacing that as well as seeing if that's in fact a worthwhile task to undertake.

definitely give the auto-rx a shot...i put a bit of that stuff in every oil change and use it to flush out my power steering system every 40-50k miles...