Project Papa Smurf Version 2.0 - Better, Bigger, Badder

[Dutchsider]

Are you pulling the motor and trans, or just the motor?

Either way, not sure if you've seen this, but watching it was quite helpful for me
http://www.s4-mtm.com/video/M4V20001.MP4

[Mantis]

brake booster, power steering hard line

[Quattro_2.7tt]

Nice find on the avant!

[RONDAL]

brake booster, power steering hard line

thanks ryan

[RONDAL]

engines out!

pics to follow.

[SomeDayAS4]

nice
cant wait!!!

[RONDAL]

So after 3 days and the engine not being out I was pretty frustrated. I've helped with engine pulls and replacements, but never been around for the whole thing or had to do every step myself.
The engines on these cars are so crammed in, its often hard to see what actually needs to be undone, and what needs to be left in place.
Sure I guess I could have undressed the entire engine, but thats a pain, and a lot of extra work IN the car.

Ryan (mantis) came round and gave me a hand and some pointers.

Things I had forgotten;
- AC condenser on the underside of the engine,
- removing the axles completely
- undoing the shifter from IN the car (i am an idiot!)


First was to disconnect the coolant lines from the oil thermostatic plate around the AC condenser. This frees up access to the 3 bolts that need to be undone.


Then unplug the sensor clips from it, being careful to mark the routing of these wires as it snakes from the top side of the engine to the bottom



Popped the oil filter off and drained it temporarily, and disconnected what i believe is the AC control module box on the underside of the chassis.




Carefully we then swung the whole AC piece around the edge of the DS SMIC inlet, and the oil thermostatic plate, and all the way round to the edge of the car.




You can see the space it used to occupy.




Time to now disconnect powersteering stuff as we have access to it easily.



Next undo the wiring going through the firewall below the AC lines on the passenger side of the car. Disconnect the clip and prop the grommet and line through.



Ensure all the wires are unclipped from the edge of the passenger side rail



Disconnect the ground and the wiring at the back of the engine.



Disconnect brake booster line by carefully popping it out.




With line removed



No pics of the axle covers, its too tight. To disconnect them you need a 6 allen socket piece and a enough 3/8 extensions to make about 4' of extension, plus a swivel. you guide in above the brake rotor, and ABOVE the axles. you will see a heat shield. There are 3 bolts holding it in place. Two side ones at the front and back edge are pretty easy. The top one, which I never would have known existed is a little more difficult. Undo all 3 of these on both sides.
Then to pop the axles grab a allen socket and undo the bolt in the center of the hub. you'll need a breaker bar for it. Once undone you can wiggle the axles loose, using a jack under the rotor to take the weight off the suspension and free the axle. Pop them both out.

It's also important you disconnect the driveshaft from the tranny.
To do this crawl under the car, seperate your stock exhaust, the cats will be in the way for where you are going at. This took me a solid 4 hours yesterday and was part of the frustration and no pic update.
Once seperates pull the downpipes down. You will see the driveshaft cover. 2 torx bolts undoes that.
Pull that out of the way you will see 6 drive shaft bolts holding it in place much like an axle. Undo them. Then with a large hammer and blunt skinny object starting banging tapping and expanding your 4 letter vocabulary. Its not how hard you hit it, or where you hit it, its the combination of anger, patience, strength and precision that will get that shaft off the tranny.


Once thats off....and you're still udner the car. Undo BOTH tranny mounts, the DTS, and both motor mounts.

Now at this point we hooked up the lift, tried lifting, and nothing. Thing wouldnt move....we'd forgotten the shifter in the car needs to be undone. Do that. Remember that.


Hook up the spreader bar and get lift into place.




Zap strap all loose wires and sensors and pieces together that are either staying with the car, or staying with the engine. This stops them getting caught and broken as the engine comes out. Take the 10 seconds to do this, it'll save you a lot of money and headache when shit breaks.



Undo the heater hoses if they aren't already undone. They will be coming through the firewall.





DS backside of the engine, everything out fo the way.




Passenger Side.



This is an axle cover




These were my axles....note the massive tears. Replacements are going in dont worry.





Jack the engine up with the lift. get a race jack under the car and jack the tranny up. This will help get it off the tranny mounts which like to be stage 5 clingers and not want to let go.
You should as the engine slowly inches out begin to get a space behind the engine.
Before you yank it all the way out you need to disconnect the slave. You can kind of see it in this pic, beside the red tranny bushing. This photo is taken from dirvers side looking over the fender and DP.




Here you can see hands going in at it from another angle. Disconnect the whole unit witht he one bolt.



As the back of the engine comes forward pull the heater hoses through the firewall and ensure nothing else is caught or still left.



Slowly bring it out



Voila. Lump removed.



The "easy" part is now done.......*shudder*

Made some space down the side of the car and moved engine into place.





Downpipes and tranny need to come off so i can throw it in a stand and work ont he engine.
Heatshields are first to go. Two bolts on top plus the metal clasp on bottom.



Also undo the EGT's, and o2 sensors, carefully, to ensure the cord doesn't twist and break.Once removed, you can see the 4 DP to turbo bolts. Undo those, and the one bolt on the sring lower down holding the DP to the tranny.





Use a race jack to take weight off the DP so it slides off easily.




Repeat for side 2. Should be left with this when done.







Never gonna need these stupid cats again. Who runs cats anyway hahaha......








Next these tiny buggers are coming off tomorrow.

[Tormented]

Amazing work man. Good to see the fast progress.

[Spooled1.8]

Tip for the turbos, spray the hell out of the bolts with penetrating oil and let it sit a while. A torch helps as well.

[Cobra Commander]

Nice work...surprised it took that much effort to pull the motor/tranny together.

[tosh2.7]

Tip for the turbos, spray the hell out of the bolts with penetrating oil and let it sit a while. A torch helps as well.

x2

[Dutchsider]

damn dude. I was going to update my motor pull thread as I just got my motor out today but you pretty much trump any pics of info that I would have given It's funny looking through your pics after having just seen/done the same thing hours prior

I would like to note that when removing the heater core hoses off the back of the motor, be careful! I broke the passenger side hookup as it was stuck on pretty freaking tight.

[RONDAL]

So we left off yesterday with the engine out, and the heatshields off.

First job today because the temperature was above freezing was to take some simple green MAX and some hot water and a scrubbing brush, and scrub down the engine bay a bit. i couldn't get a hose out to the garage, it would have frozen and made a mess. so it was done with squirt bottles and some serious elbow grease. why do i have to always pull engines in the dead of winter, AND live in a place thats freezing cold?

It cleaned up nicely. I pulled all the silver heat shields off and cleaned behind them. Scrubbed all of the bottles down on the drivers side and just tried to tidy things up. Was a mess that has accumulated over the last 10 years. You'll never see any of this cleaning once the engine is in because you cant see anything with it in...but its good to know its clean. Someones gonna moan i didn't do a good enough job. If they want to come clean for me i'll be more than happy to accept their help. Otherwise....dont want to hear it.






Next was time to seperate the engine and tranny.
I like to label my bolt heads and holes on the tranny. They all are different gauges and lengths, and it allows an easy reinstallation. Trick I learned last time. Started with the bottom ones






and the the upper ones





Easiest way i found to get the tranny off is to get someone to hold the engine, place a jack under the ENGINE as close tot he tranny as you can get it. Lower the engine down so it is neutral, and the straddling the tranny looking at the engine, turn it counter clockwise about twenty degrees and the wiggle it back. Pops right off. It also helps to give it a whack around the edges with a hammer to break the seal.






Now left with this....




Time to tackle the 3 turbo allen bolts. Lots of liquid wrench (penetrating oil) and when that doesn't work my favorite toy




That will undo the turbo from the exhaust manifold. Its still held on tight by all kinds of oil lines, coolant lines, and intake inlets.
Time to undo all that crap. its the same for both of them, i took lots of pics of the drivers side turbo coming off.

Here is the inlet from the SMIC to turbo...nice and leaky.




Undo the oil return line allen bolts (2)



Then undo the inlet holding bracket from the oil pan





The bottom side stuff now swings away







Time to attack the coolant lines. These are a royal c&nt. lots of small spaces and fiddly little $hit things. takes way longer than it needs to. hopefully the tials are a little easier.






Undo the other coolant line on the outer side. At this point you're gonna wonder how much coolant exactly you can hide in a turbo as it pisses all over the floor. The answer is a lot. Get a bucket.







Then time for the oil lines







Once they are off swing the turbo down, and disconnect the vaccum line from the wastegate by pulling it right off.






No more drivers side turbo.






Repeat the annoying process for the passenger side. Expand your 4 letter vocabulary and learn all kinds of tricks with wrenches to work in tight spots. it sucks. I feel your pain if you have to do this.



Tweedle dee, and Tweedle dum are removed. God they are tiny





Time to undo the pressure plate. 6 allen bolts around the outside. Give it a good whack to break the hold.





That then exposes the flywheel....





Here is my clutch









Backside of pressure plate






Time to remove the flywheel. And to do this takes a little trick Graeme showed me when I did my VRT build a few years ago. Dunno how I remembered it.
Take the LONG SKINNY TRANNY BOLT WITH WASHER and thread it through the bottom hole. Take a wrench and hook it onto a nub on the flywheel. Spin the flywheel around til the wrench hooks up and stop as you can see here. This will allow you to wrench on the bolts and not spin the flywheel.




Now you're bound to strip one of these...they suck. They heat cycle and have locktite. I heated all of my bolts and liquid wrench them, and they were still super hard to undo.
Had to go buy an extractor kit to remove one i stripped. Its actually easier to get them off with these than the normal sockets because these ones will NEVER slip off.





With that headache out of the way....you're left with this




and the dual mass flywheel

[RONDAL]

Next up is removing valve cover gaskets a) to replace the leaking seals, and b) give them a shot of color.


Marked out the coilpacks so i know which is which.




Broke a piece of the spider hose trying to undo the vaccum/emissions whatever it is clip that attaches tot he valve cover. arggghhhhh.....




Valve cover off. You can see where it was leaking in the bottom left of this photo, dripping on the manifold and casuing the nice oil smell in my cabin cause that is right near the cabin filter.




The gasket literally was in pieces already before i tried removing it




Did the same on the drivers side




Gave the covers a bath, ensuring i scrubbed the mating surface where the new gasket and sealant is going to go tomorrow




I've just finished putting on the 3 coats of paint while writing all of this out, photos of that will follow tomorrow.


In the meantime, a comparison photo of the stock vs ER intercoolers I will be running. Its not even a comparison. The ER is almost twice the stock ones size.

[Cobra Commander]

Awesome progress!!!

[kramrs2]

Great work! The photo documentary is amazing!

[gearhead1186]

great work. keep the photos coming.

[RONDAL]

mike riddle me this batman

what happens with this hardline that goes into the stock inlet?




is that fuel? air? what happens to it with the tials?

[Mantis]

Air, not sure what the Tial's do with it, I can't remember what the inlets look like

[gearhead1186]

mike riddle me this batman

what happens with this hardline that goes into the stock inlet?




is that fuel? air? what happens to it with the tials?

That hard line on the inlet is part of the evap system. Its not needed so you can follow the rubber line to where it originates on top of the fuel rail and just cap it off there.

[Dutchsider]

That spider hose is probably the worst designed part on these cars

[RONDAL]

What is the best method for capping lines?

[fshowcars]

although old school/ghetto... i usually find a solid bolt that nicely fits into the rubber and crank it down with a clamp, if capping a rubber line. Depending on where you are, you can tap the cover / head and screw a freeze plug into it...? I bought some and used them on my 16v to close up the OEM oil gullies and the like. or just find similar sized bolt in your bolt bin and tap away. just be careful of depth if in the head / cover.

[RONDAL]

so the tial kit is missing a whack of coolant stuff.

for those with the kit, i'm missing;
x2 CNC aluminum banjo fittings
x4 12mm CNC stainless steel banjo bolts
x8 12mm Copper crush washers

for the CNC banjo fittings, what size do i need to get? i'm trying to source them locally instead of wait for johnny bravo to send from California or Michigan or wherever he is located.
Dont people check these things before they ship kits? You'd think it would be pretty basic?

[CTS Turbo]

so the tial kit is missing a whack of coolant stuff.

for those with the kit, i'm missing;
x2 CNC aluminum banjo fittings
x4 12mm CNC stainless steel banjo bolts
x8 12mm Copper crush washers

for the CNC banjo fittings, what size do i need to get? i'm trying to source them locally instead of wait for johnny bravo to send from California or Michigan or wherever he is located.
Dont people check these things before they ship kits? You'd think it would be pretty basic?

This isn't the first time I've heard of TiAL short shipping parts, and from what I heard they shot the other guy down for missing parts. TiAL compared the box weights, the boxes missing the parts weighed the same as the boxes without missing parts... Last time I checked crush washers and a few small bolts and aluminum flanges don't weigh much, BUT they sure screw up your install when they are missing from the shipment. Good to see TiAL and Johnny have continued to avoid the situations at hand, these kits cost $5000, you'd think you'd get some better customer service.

[red330i]

Beautiful car!

[RONDAL]

if anyone has info on the missing coolant stuff i need to get it would be appreciated. im kinda stuck hooking that stuff up at the moment without them.

im also stuck on the rear main seal gasket because autocamping world has some totally different idea of what a S4 rear main seal gasket looks like....sent me something that looks like it belongs in a chevy truck.

while im waiting, how do i replace the cam seals?
the valve covers are removed, i can see the black rubber on the outside of the heads. do i simply pop those off? i tried lightly but was gonna have to destroy the rubber which is now hard so i thought i would ask first before tearing into it.

[RONDAL]

Photo update.....

As you can read from earlier, today was a frustrating today. It felt like two big steps back instead of any kind of forward progress. Bloody german cars.


First, inspected the paint job I did last night....I like.




.....and thats where the positivity ended.


Oh hi rear main seal...you're right here and easy to replace. I know you're not leaking but you're a $12 part.....what could possibly go wrong?




Off....




The back of the rear main seal...with the old broken gasket. No worries because I ordered both of those, here let me get them from the basement. Oh....whats that. You didn't ship me the right one? Not the end of the world....I'll call Audi. Oh....whats that.....there are NONE IN CANADA UNTIL THE NEW YEAR? FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU

So i made a few angry text messages....you know who you are. And some desperation phone calls. Found a third party supplier that can have one here tomorrow. Cost me a few sexual favors and I think a dinner. (and about 2 hours of shop time)


I then decided to double check all my other stuff. Found that i'm missing the Tial parts. I'll be honest, any schmuck can put together a "turbo kit" nowadays. You're charging what you're charging, you better be double checking all of the stuff is in it. Cause otherwise you end up with pissed of customers who are stuck waiting for you to answer PM's, emails, phone calls....and waiting on parts. You will be judged by your customer service. You listening Tial?


By this point I had wasted 4 hours. So pissed. No real direction of what I should be doing, and pretty demotivated.

Decided to start getting the other stuff ready for the Tials to go in.

First step according to the booklet was remove the oil feed lines. THIS SHOULD BE THE LAST STEP!
Here is where it is located. Back of the top of the engine, below the manifold, right above the tranny. Follow that oil feed line up from inside the tranny to that shiny silver box. You'll see one of the banjo bolts part way out. Be careful to keep these bolts you have to reuse.



Here;s what it looks like from the top LOL



I wrestled from below with that mess for a good 45 minutes.


I then decided screw it i'll mnark out the other lines that have to be removed with masking tape and figure them out.




Traced them back...and guess where I was looking again




Luckily, half the crap thats in the way for the oil lines will actually be removed. So i just decided to do it in order of less-pain-in-the-ass. Coolant lines first, spider hose second, then oil lines.
Made them my b!tch

Spider bye bye


Wastegate and actuator bye bye



Well hey now that looks way too easy.....





So much anger at these.....






Done with this page of the booklet




Time to modify the mounts. Stock ones need to be filed to clearance the new inlets.

Stock Passenger side




After 25 minutes of filing by hand





Drivers side, you can see the modification that needs to happen marked out in black marker




Modified




Then....threw my ricer valve covers on temporarily. Oh and something else.
Why hullo thurrr.




Threw the inlet on to test some clearance.




Still touching. file some more. Who's the creepy bald guy?







In the spirit of bigger and better....todays installment





Thats all i got done today.

Tomorrow i want to do rear main seal, cam seals, valve cover gaskets, and maybe these transmission pieces i have forgotten about.

[CTS Turbo]

This isn't the first time I've heard of TiAL short shipping parts, and from what I heard they shot the other guy down for missing parts. TiAL compared the box weights, the boxes missing the parts weighed the same as the boxes without missing parts... Last time I checked crush washers and a few small bolts and aluminum flanges don't weigh much, BUT they sure screw up your install when they are missing from the shipment. Good to see TiAL and Johnny have continued to avoid the situations at hand, these kits cost $5000, you'd think you'd get some better customer service.

Any word from TiAL on this one? Hopefully you don't get the shaft...

[Don Supreme]

These projects as so fragile.. One missing bolt and it may completely derail the project time line. Please guys better quality control.

[RONDAL]

spoke with tial this morning, sounds like i cant source the parts locally because they are CNC'd in house. gotta wait for them to ship them.

hopefully they do as i ask and send overnight. i know its at extra cost to them, but theis could have been avoided with a 30 second check in house.


got my rear main gasket though. waiting for propane heter to warm up garage right now.

[RONDAL]

lets play a game i like to call name the mystery pieces:

Exhibit A:
large massive bolt with splined end. WHat is this for?



Exhibit B:
two large O-rings. they almost look turbo related but I cant be certain. I have the ones for the tials seperately and the ER intercoolers somehwere else as well. Tey are rubber not metal



Ex. C:
I think these are cam related. What is there official name


Ex. D:
This single piece of hardend plastic came in a box....by itself. It looks a lot like Ex. E but I dont know if its the same or not.



Ex. E:
I think these are cam related as well. There are two caps and 4 ridged circles.




THe worlds worst and most expensive puzzle ever:

[Tormented]

I see your DPs and im sure youve stated somewhere but what exhaust are you running? Im assuming those are 3'' dps.

[NeedingAnAudi]

Love your detail. If I ever buy an S4, I will upgrade turbos and this thread will be my best friend.

Don't know A. or B.
C. cam chain tensioner gaskets
D. and E. camshaft seal on the front of the engine

[Matt Danger]

A: Crank bolt located on the front of the crank, secures the timing belt gear. It is a recommended one time use stretch bolt and only needs to be changed/replaced if you're removing the timing belt gear to replace the front crank seal. You'll need the crank locking pin to do this. If your seal isn't leaking and you're in a hurry to put the car back together I'd skip it and worry about it later.

B: O-rings might slip over the turbo inlets to seal the inlets and the piping. Not 100%, just a guess.

C: Cam chain tensioner gasket & plug thingie. Part of the top end seal kit. You'll need a cam chain tensioner tool to compress the tensioner and replace the seal. Check if the area around the tensioner on each head is leaking (very common).

D: Cam seal.

E: Cam and front crank seals. I think cam and front crank are the same seals. The two plugs go in the back side of each head, if the old ones are leaking simply pry them out, clean and tap on the new ones. Cam seals require removing the timing belt and cam sprockets and using either seal puller or a screw to carefully remove the old seal. Crank seal removal is discussed in A. If they're not leaking you may want to skip for the sake of time savings.

[RONDAL]

matt danger wins the audizine MEGA CRED award. thanks dude i appreciate the help.

[RONDAL]

So today started off well.
Got a note from Johnny Bravo late last night, with contact details for someone who i should talk to to source banjo bolts. Woke up extra early, only to find out after speaking with them, they custom CNC their own fittings, and there was no one in Western Canada who stocked what I needed. No fret, a quick email of what I needed and a wonderful lady at Tial had a package with tracking out the door by noon with next day delivery. THANK YOU TIAL!


Next was playing the waiting game with Alex for the rear main gasket. Finally around 1pm it arrived at the shop so I went and picked it up.
Finally got to doing some real work around 3pm after playing that "what part is this game" some parts trouble shooting from my favorite tim hortons drinking audi part guy, and a quick stop past Calgary Autowerks for some cam seal related tech tips.

Time to get down to business.

First....a big F U to mother nature. Why didn't we do natural gas heating in the garage and insulate it again?




First was dealing with the rear main seal....again.
New gasket.




The ghetto fabulous way of ensuring your gasket sealer is up to operating temps hahaha




Cleaned up and ready to go.



Voila. Some say dont run gasket maker, some say do. I dont want to be pulling this again, so I'm going with DO. its like 15 seconds of extra work. Wanna try redoing that once its in the car in under 15 hours?





Next I doubel checked drivers side clearancing on the turbo. The Tial manual says to cut 1.5" off the turbo inlet. There isn't 1.5" there to cut off. So i test fitted the inlet to ensure everything fit properly just to be sure.




While test fitting on the passenger side again, i noticed that i'm having issues with the coolant line that comes from behind the motor mount. Does this need to be modified in a certain way to make it fit. I cut off the tab, but even then it looks like it needs to be rebent as its contacting the actuator?





Decided to leave that one for some feedback and move onto cam stuff...because that needed to get done today.

Front of the engine




I'm going to show this all on the passenger side just because i did it first. The thing is the same for the drivers side, just the lighting sucks on that side for photos haha. if you need to do your seals I hope this helps. do it at your own risk

BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, GET ENGINE TO TDC AND MARK TIMING OUT ON BOTH CAM PULLEYS, BELT, AND CAM PULLEY

Pull covers off the top, removing the allen bolts, and unplug the hall sensor.








Next using an impact gun, undo your crank pulley allen bolts around the outside of it, and remove








Then undo the allen bolts holding on the clutch fan pulley (to remove clutch fan REVERSE THREAD undo it using a adjustable wrench), and remove, plus dump the tensior too using an 8mm allen.








Compress the tensioner and use the grenade pin in the tensioner to take the tension off of the timing belt.






Place the cam shaft locking bar across the cam pulleys. It will only fit one way, into the two holes in the cam pulleys, and if you are TDC it will fit. if not, you're out. go back and find TDC.





Using the audi cam pulley took loosen off the pulleys. There is another little arm on this tool i just didn't take photo of it.




Pulleys off





Using a cam tensioner compressor compress the tensioner to get some slack in the chain.









Now undo the 6 torx cam holder bolts that run down the edge of the cam tensioner, and remove. once they are out the cam tensioner will pop ever so little off of its base. you can use the cam locking bar to rock that cam up a little further if needed. This will lift it off of the half moon seal under the tensioner.
I've already pulled the half moon seal in this photo but you can see where it goes.





Make SURE you clean out this area of crud and junk using some brake cleaner and a paper towel.





Time for new parts. The half moon goes in as you would think just ensure the ridges go where they need to, and the metal gasket lies on top under the cam tensioner. It only goes one way and clips onto and exposed metal stud.





Half moon in, and gasket going into place.






back together....







Torque down the cam holder bolts

[RONDAL]

Next move back to the front of the engine for a minute and remove the hall sensor entirely with the two allen bolts. Be sure not to damage the back of the sensor.
You will be left with this






Undo the bolt, remove the bolt, washer, and the metal disc. Leaving you with this






Next undo the 4 cam holder bolts down at this end of the engine, they will release the whole piece as you can see here. Give it a VERY gentle tap with a hammer to get it to start to move. VERY gentle.





Once thats off you will see the cam shaft seals.








They literally slide off by hand. pull gently.






Go find your new seals, two of them, and some multipurpose grease. Lightly grease the inner part of the seal.
You can then reinstall them the same way they came out. Be sure to get them lined up so they bottom out against the head, and that they are straight.




Put the piece back on top and carefully tighten down evenly.



Voila...reinstalled




Now go back to the backside of your engine again, lightly tap a flat head into the cam cap.





Once its removed you'll have this




Lightly, and ensuring its straight, tap in the new one.







REMEMBER TO TORQUE DOWN ALL THE CAM HOLDER BOLTS YOU LOOSEND


You're now done with the passenger side, repeat on the drivers side. Exact same way to do things.

[RONDAL]

After we were done the drivers side it was time to throw in the new main water pump.

Took off the pulley from the power steering pump






Then undid the 3 allen bolts holding the PS pump in place (its the top center thing if you dont know). There is one allen bolt to the left side and partially under the intake manifold. Its a 6mm allen and can be reached with a wobbly extension from the top.







Next undo both rollers from the front. One is a 13mm i believe, the other a 8mm allen. My water pump kit came with new rollers for both of these and a new timing belt. If yours doens't you dont need to worry about this.





Had to lift the PS pump up slightly so i could undo all of the 10mm bolts, there is one hiding under the pump as you can see here.






All the bolts out





Pulled the water pump. Yay crap....









I took a razor blade and cleaned up the surface. There was a lot of old gasket left behind, and used a bit of 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth it out






Installed new pump (here you can see the other roller removed)






Installed new rollers







marked out on the new timing belt the timing marks from before. its really handy to have one hold the belt while the other counts and lines up teeth.






Put the new belt on, the cam pulleys are back on too, all torqued to proper spec. Then pull the tensioner grenade pin and presto everything is set how its supposed to. Check for proper slack in the belt and that all timing marks line up. You can see the white paint pen on the pulleys and belt.






Reinstall the serp belt toys and the clutch fan (i left mine off for now).





Cover everything back up.






I decided to call it a night after all that. It was 1130pm at this point. My how time flies when you're having fun. I'm sure it could be done a lot quicker than 5 hours...but i was playing with timing stuff, and I REALLY didn't want to get it wrong or rush it.


Tomorrow i just need to do up the valve cover gaskets, and the engine seal stuff on the top end should be done.

[JackalS4]

Keep up the good work man!