need help bleeding the clutch slave

[S4evr]

So I've been following this information here from JHM on bleeding my clutch slave:


** NOTE: You usually have to crack the bleeder screw .5 to 1 full turn to get any fluid/air to come out. **

Similarly to Brakes, Clutch hydraulics (slave or master) need to be bled after being opened or when a component is replaced. Also, you always need to make sure the brake/clutch fluid reservoir is full and stays above the level of the hose that comes out the side of the reservoir, this hose is what feeds the Clutch Master Cylinder so if the level gets below this hose you will then start sucking air into the clutch hydraulics and have to start your bleeding procedure all over again.

NEW CYLINDERS OR FULLY DRAINED SYSTEMS. With all that air in there, it will just aerate the fluid and never bleed if you try the old pump it up and then hold it to the floor routine and then have someone crack the bleeder after. INSTEAD crack the bleeder FIRST, then push the pedal to the floor and hold it. Then while still holding the pedal to the floor close the bleeder. Then pull the pedal up, only once the bleeder is closed. Repeat this procedure several times until fluid comes out. Once fluid comes out then do it at least 2 more times to be careful. At that point you can switch to the old pump it up and hold it to the floor method. To do that, you just pump the clutch pedal several times, then hold it to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor crack the bleeder and then close. Repeat this 2 to 4 times just to be sure. At this point the pedal should feel great. Once you think you have it, give it a 30 minute break to make sure any incedental aeration settles down. Then come back and bleed it one more time, if you hear or see air do it again. If at any point you start with the pump it up first then crack it method you should give it a 30 minute break to let the aeration go away in the fluid. Once you aerate the fluid and just keep trying, you will be there forever and it will never bleed properly. PATIENCE AND PROPER PROCEDURE ALWAYS PREVAIL.

FINAL BLEEDING IF YOU ONLY HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF AIR IN THE SYSTEM
For this the old pump it up and hold it to the floor method usually works fine. To do that, you just pump the clutch pedal several times, then hold it to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor crack the bleeder and then close. Repeat this 2 or more times just to be sure. At this point the pedal should feel great. Once you think you have it, give it a 30 minute break to make sure any incidental aeration settles down. Then come back and bleed it one more time, if you hear or see air do it again. NOTE: Once you aerate the fluid and just keep trying, you will be there forever and it will never bleed properly. You must step away for at least 30 minutes to get the fluid to not be aerated.

GRAVITY BLEEDING
This is a great technique when you replace the slave cylinder to save you headache and time.
1. Get the new slave cylinder installed; bolted in completely and connected to the hose.
2. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is full (clutch master and slave share this reservoir with the brakes)
3. Crack the bleeder screw at least 1 full turn (360 degrees) to 2 full turns (720 degrees0
4. Put a drop pad or rag below it on the ground.
5. Take a break and within 5 to 30 minutes you should see fluid dripping out.
6. Once the fluid starts dripping tighten down the bleeder.
7. It is now about 90% ot 95% bled and now you may only have to do the above bleeding procedures once or twice. This saves a lot of headache and aerated fluid.





I had the engine out and its going back in today. I left the slave attached to the tranny and just disconnected the line. I have the car level, but my engine is still dangling at a ~30 degree angle. I opened the bleeder valve on the slave to let it gravity bleed, and at about 2 turns fluid started dripping out. I connected my catch bottle and after about a minute I could see the new, blue fluid in my catch can line. I left the valve open for another 5 minutes or so, making sure the level in the tank was above the inlet.

I closed up the valve and started to do the final bleeding procedure listed above. my first compression of the clutch pedal put the pedal to the floor, and it did not come back up. with the pedal still on the floor I opened the bleeder valve and some fluid came out. I closed the valve again, but the pedal is still on the floor.


Does my engine/tranny also have to be level while I'm doing the gravity bleed? I have a feeling I still have a large air bubble somewhere in the system which is why the pedal is on the floor.

What should I do? level the engine and tranny, and then re-gravity bleed?

[mholme]

You still have air in it. If you're doing the old pump by hand method, make sure you purge and draw in fluid from above the slave cylinder, not with the bottle on the ground below. You may also want to reconsider your blue fluid.

[S4evr]

yea I still had air in in. bleed it many more times and the pedal feels great now, but I still have to pull the pedal up the last 1/4 of the pedal travel. there aren't any more bubbles coming out so i really don't know what it could be.


Does it matter that the engine/tranny still isnt 100% in yet? I have it dangling at like a 15% angle with about a foot to drop, and 4-5" to move back. the car is level btw

[28cmod]

I'm gonna sound like a moron but whatever... Where the hell is the bleeder screw?

[mholme]

It's on the slave cylinder.

[The_Jerbel]

yea I still had air in in. bleed it many more times and the pedal feels great now, but I still have to pull the pedal up the last 1/4 of the pedal travel. there aren't any more bubbles coming out so i really don't know what it could be.


Does it matter that the engine/tranny still isnt 100% in yet? I have it dangling at like a 15% angle with about a foot to drop, and 4-5" to move back. the car is level btw

No, doesn't matter. Just make sure the fluid is above the slave cylinder and it'll work fine. Did you make sure to gravity bleed it with quite a bit of fluid?

[S4evr]

yes, I gravity bled it for 15-20 minutes, the whole time fluid was slowly seeping through. Is it possible I have an air pocket in the master cylinder? Should I bleed the master?

[mholme]

You have to bleed the clutch hydraulics through the slave. If you have your purge bottle sitting on the engine somewhere, you can watch it from the driver seat as you push/pull the clutch. Sometimes it will burp out a big air bubble if it's up in the system somewhere. You may want to try it one more time just to make sure all air is out.

[28cmod]

It's on the slave cylinder.

Sweet, I assume its the little nub on the bottom below the line? Looks too damn easy to break!

[S4evr]

Gonna go outside and try again soon. To confirm, this is how I've been doing the bleeding:

I have this hooked up to the bleeder valve to catch the out coming fluid, and so I can see if there are any bubbles.


I've got a friend in the car slowly pumping the pedal 4 times, and keeping it on the floor on the 5th pump. I crack the bleeder and watch for any air bubbles in the stream of fluid coming out. With the pedal still on the floor I close the bleeder valve. At this point we have to pull the pedal up all the way, during which I can see the fluid in the reservoir dip down a little bit. (I've always made sure the fluid level is higher than the inlet). with the pedal up, it compresses normally and returns normally, except for the last 2" of pedal travel. we'll repeat this process 4 times, then we let it sit for 30 minutes and try again.

[S4evr]

I'm gonna try this, which I read here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...aster+cylinder



Siena - "If your pedal comes back up, you're almost done. Open the bleed nipple, push the pedal down once, it will remain there. Allow the fluid to trickle out for at least 2 minutes, keeping an eye on the level. Close the nipple, pump a few times, and you're done."

[Militant-Grunt]

I personally never gravity bleed these clutches, you get a second person. Get them to pump for about 2 minutes each time and hold while you drain the bubbled out fluid, do this until the pedal is solid and comes up to the top everytime.

You could have a bad slave or master though which is a problem I had. My previous ridiculous dual diaphragm clutch broke both of them lol.

[S4evr]

I'm gonna try this, which I read here: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...aster+cylinder



Siena - "If your pedal comes back up, you're almost done. Open the bleed nipple, push the pedal down once, it will remain there. Allow the fluid to trickle out for at least 2 minutes, keeping an eye on the level. Close the nipple, pump a few times, and you're done."

[littleredwagen]

we bled my buddies clutch like 2 or 3 separate times. They are just a bear to bleed

[28cmod]

I cannot see my slave cyl at all but I can still reach it with the heat shield off. What size wrench do I need to put on it? Having a hell of a time getting anything on it to turn...

[The_Jerbel]

Your slave cylinder is held to the trans with a 6mm hex bolt.

Be careful with that bleeder valve, it's delicate. Holding the clutch pedal to the floor is the best way to get out any air bubbles after gravity bleeding. This stuff really ain't that complicated. You just let gravity pull the fluid downward, which pushes out the air. Then you hold the clutch pedal down to pressurize the system and allow the fluid to push out any remaining air. Do that until the pedal feels right. The end.

[S4evr]

yea, finally got it. just took many many attempts to get the air out. what a biatch

[QWKDTSN]

I'm sending you a virtual beer in congratulations. :)

[S4evr]

lmao, thanks. I was cut short of getting the engine in 100% from the monster thunderstorm we had here in the Boston area.

If anyone is in the Boston area, you'll know what I'm talking about. Picture 4 guys working under a flimsy Patriots tent, rain is flying in sideways and upside down (we almost lost the tent, we had to stay out there and hold onto it). we stopped after we heard the loudest lightning crack in history, followed by the biggest tree branch falling in my yard ever:

[28cmod]

This stuff really ain't that complicated. .

Ya know, it was cake once I cut a wrench down to get some room in there. I was freakin terrified of breaking it! Of course I just loosened it, let the fluids flow until the pedal came up, closed the bleeder, pumped a few times and all was good.

I need to adjust the linkage now I guess, I havent driven a 6mt S4 in years. I can put the car straight into REverse, is it supposed to be that you must push the shifter down to go into reverse?
Still have to adjust the abs, dash, esp, etc to clear the numerous CELs.
Car is making 5 lbs boost at best. Either I have a leak, its ina limp mode, or my boost gauge is goofed up.
Brakes are squishy, need to bleed em.

Damn I love having my car back!

[The_Jerbel]

Yeah, you need to adjust your shifter. Correct, push down and then left and into reverse.