I think I just bent my valves while doing a timing belt job (help needed inside)

[m0nkey]

No I haven't done a TBA yet, I need to buy a Vagcom. But does it sound like i bent a valve? My friend said it sounds weird and he had a bent valve before but in a Honda. He said when it's a bent valve you would hear it louder than what I'm getting.

Sounds like you have an air leak.

An air leak can make that noise?

[[email protected]]

did you do a throttle body alignment after you plugged it back in? if not, you'll get a terrible idle.

^ This.

You don't need to buy anything to do a TBA (throttle body alignment). Turn the key to ON and let it sit there for 5 minutes.

Then go to Home Depot a make a leak tester for $15 and test for air leaks. Your idle doesn't look like a bent valve, it looks like either a throttle body that's not aligned or a big air leak. These are all really simple fixes to try before turning to bent valves.

EDIT: Just watched your second vid and that sounds pretty gnarly. This may sound stupid, but you're good on oil...right?

[m0nkey]

^ This.

You don't need to buy anything to do a TBA (throttle body alignment). Turn the key to ON and let it sit there for 5 minutes.

Then go to Home Depot a make a leak tester for $15 and test for air leaks. Your idle doesn't look like a bent valve, it looks like either a throttle body that's not aligned or a big air leak. These are all really simple fixes to try before turning to bent valves.

EDIT: Just watched your second vid and that sounds pretty gnarly. This may sound stupid, but you're good on oil...right?

I should be, i did an oil change 2 weeks ago.

And how do i make my own leak down tester?

[m0nkey]

Do you guys think that my timing's off and that i will need a valve adjustment to fix it?

[7speed]

I think that your timing is off and that you need to realign everything and reset your timing. I.E. line up all of the marks and ticks

[m0nkey]

I think that your timing is off and that you need to realign everything and reset your timing. I.E. line up all of the marks and ticks

Should i do a Leak down test before i remove everything or just reinstall the timing belt and then do a lead down test?.

Also what do you guys think of the noise? It doesn't sound as loud as i heard from other cars that had bent valves (youtube) it just sounds like loose valves.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I thought that I already posted it, but guess not. Can you take the top timing belt cover off and then get a socket on your crank and set the car to top dead center. Take a very clear nice picture of the notches lining up on your cam gear and your valve cover. Then take a very clear picture of your crank accessory pulley with the little notch on it lining up with the little notch in the bottom timing cover that is located behind the pulley. Make sure they are taken as straight on or directly above so it is very clear they are lining up and not an angle so it may be hard to tell.

[B6Lovin]

^needs to pull his valve cover and check timing on the cams too just to be on the safe side.

before doing ANY of that though, doing a manual TBA, and then pressure testing or smoke testing the car should be his first steps... that'll tell him if he has any leaks that need addressing (which is a good idea whether you're having problems or not)

[m0nkey]

Im going to rent a Leak Test Kit from Autozone, advance or any auto parts store. Than ill have a general idea of whats wrong. But i read in order to do a leak down test i will need to move each cylinder to TDC. How would i do that?

If i know for sure i dont have any bent valves than ill remove everything and check out the timing.

[diagnosticator]

Starting at #1 TDC compression stroke, turn the engine 1/2 rotation or 180 degrees between each test, then test the other cylinders in firing order. 1-3-4-2 Remove all the spark plugs first. TDC #1 cylinder is when the timing marks on the crankshaft and the camshaft belt sprocket are aligned with the marks at the same time. That won 't be the case after doing #1,. The camshaft will align for #1, and will be misaligned 90 degrees for #3, 180 degrees for #4 and 270 degrees for #2. After completing the test on #2, turn the crankshaft another 180 degrees and then the crank and cam timing marks will align together again. Before applying any air pressure for testing, the crankshaft must be held by some firm means to prevent the test air pressure from pushing the piston down and spinning the crankshaft forward or backwards. After applying the test air pressure, listen at the opened throttle body to hear any leaking intake valves, and at the exhaust for any leaking exhaust valves. Also remove the oil fill cap, and listen there for any large amounts of air blowing past the piston rings, and/or valve stem seals, during each cylinder test.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I will say it again. This is very easy to do, can you just do this for me/us?

I thought that I already posted it, but guess not. Can you take the top timing belt cover off and then get a socket on your crank and set the car to top dead center. Take a very clear nice picture of the notches lining up on your cam gear and your valve cover. Then take a very clear picture of your crank accessory pulley with the little notch on it lining up with the little notch in the bottom timing cover that is located behind the pulley. Make sure they are taken as straight on or directly above so it is very clear they are lining up and not an angle so it may be hard to tell.

[m0nkey]

I will say it again. This is very easy to do, can you just do this for me/us?

ill do it later this week since i got 2 test this week. Im going to have to drain the coolant again than remove all the bolts holding up the front end again. Its not hard just time consuming.


Does anyone if the top/bottom bolts for the alternator are suppose to be flush with the engine blocK? because i have a gap between them about half and inch. Does this matter?

[A4 TSCHUSS]

No you don't. It will take you less than 5 minutes. Unclip the little clips that hook on the valve cover and then fish that top cover timing belt cover out so the cam gear is visible. Then put the socket and breaker bar or whatever on the crank bolt and turn the engine over to top dead center. You dont need to be taking the car apart or draining anything.

[m0nkey]

No you don't. It will take you less than 5 minutes. Unclip the little clips that hook on the valve cover and then fish that top cover timing belt cover out so the cam gear is visible. Then put the socket and breaker bar or whatever on the crank bolt and turn the engine over to top dead center. You dont need to be taking the car apart or draining anything.

Oh i thought you are only suppose to crank the car with the bottom crank, never the cam sprocket.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

No, use the crank, not the cam. Reach from under the car or from the top and stick a 19mm 12pt socket on the bolt for the crank and turn the engine over and set it at TDC.

[m0nkey]

Ok sounds Good I'll try t out soon. But do I have to remove anything to take the picture of the bottom crank.

[diagnosticator]

m0nkey, if you are going to do the leak down test, do you understand my reply in post #90? In addition, you do not need to remove the front end or drain anything to do the leak down test.

You might be able to get a pic of the front crank pulley and alignment marks using macro focus, for really close up shots, otherwise I don't think you can, except from a sideways view. You can also try using a mirror and taking the pic shot at 90 degrees from straight on.

[dougyfresh]

Does anyone if the top/bottom bolts for the alternator are suppose to be flush with the engine blocK? because i have a gap between them about half and inch. Does this matter?

Yes, all four alternator bolts should be tight and the alternator should be flush against the accessory bracket.

Tension in the serpentine belt is taken up by the tensioner so all the accessories are bolted flush against the accessory bracket (alternator, power steering pump, a/c compressor).

[bananas]

You might be able to get a pic of the front crank pulley and alignment marks using macro focus, for really close up shots, otherwise I don't think you can, except from a sideways view. You can also try using a mirror and taking the pic shot at 90 degrees from straight on.

I've done it with the front end on... the trick was getting the lighting right and wiggling the 19mm socket on and off.




Also, here's the other pic we need:

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Exactly^^

[m0nkey]

Ok guys i got it now! I know for a leak down test you dont need to remove anything just the spark plugs and move each cylinder to TDC. And as for making sure the timing is inline ill check that asap! seem easy enough. I thought you had to remove the lower timing belt cover.

*I did not bolt down the alternator bolts all the way down would this cause any problems with my timing?*

Thanks everyone for all the help i really appreciate it

[m0nkey]

Well here is the pictures

[A4 TSCHUSS]

Well, you can rule that out, it is right

[m0nkey]

Well, you can rule that out, it is right

So what else could it be? I just did the TBA.

[A4 TSCHUSS]

I haven't read all the posts in the thread. Did you ever get it scanned? If not, find someone with vag com that can help you or something.

[m0nkey]

I haven't read all the posts in the thread. Did you ever get it scanned? If not, find someone with vag com that can help you or something.

No i didnt yet. But im going to go rent a scanning tool at autozone to see why i have a check engine light. But im trying to find someone with a Vag Com.

[m0nkey]

I fired her up again after making sure that the timing was correct and did a TBA and here is what i got. The ticking sounds seemed to quiet down a bit, but you can still hear it in the the cylinder near the firewall. Is this normal or should i be worried?



Here is the video when i first fired up her without the TBA

[CrtchRktRcr]

cam chain tensioner.


What oil did you put in?

[m0nkey]

cam chain tensioner.


What oil did you put in?

Mobile 1 0w-40 with a mobile 1 oil filter. It never made this sound before i changed the timing belt and while i hadthe mobile 1 oil in it.

[mjfrizz]

that ticking sounds like your lifters. after i changed my belt, i had the same noise. If your car sits there for a few days they can get dry....once it warms up and everything gets lubed it should go away

[mjfrizz]

I have a dumb question....did you say all four alternator bolts are half inch from being flush? If so...maybe you put the alternator in upside down. Reason I say that is that I changed my thermo two weeks ago, and when I first tried to bolt it down, I got all four bolts started but they all stopped about half inch from being flush. I flipped the alternator around and everything fit flush.

[a4huey09]

wouldn't the pulley be on facing the wrong direction?... it can only go on one way.

[davkav]

He means rotated it 180* whilst still keeping the pulley in the same place.

[m0nkey]

that ticking sounds like your lifters. after i changed my belt, i had the same noise. If your car sits there for a few days they can get dry....once it warms up and everything gets lubed it should go away

Thats really great to know! But im going to change out my timing belt again because I streched the timing belt over the tensioner roller and i now have indentions on the roller from the flat head and after reading around i found out that is bad. So im going to do attempt 2 which should be easy since i know pretty much everything now. haha

I have a dumb question....did you say all four alternator bolts are half inch from being flush? If so...maybe you put the alternator in upside down. Reason I say that is that I changed my thermo two weeks ago, and when I first tried to bolt it down, I got all four bolts started but they all stopped about half inch from being flush. I flipped the alternator around and everything fit flush.

Yeah i was thinking about that but i never got around to switch it up, but im going to do it once i get my new timing belt and tensioner roller in.

[m0nkey]

fired her up again to see if it would sound the same, but it sounds louder now. It seems as if it sounds louder when its hot with high humidity and quieter when its cooler with lower humidity.

[m0nkey]

Could it possible be a stuck lifter? since its been sitting for a while? Also when i rev it the sound gets louder.

[m0nkey]

Ttt

[diagnosticator]

Ttt

As I posted before, you need to remove the valve cover and check for excessive clearance between the cam lobes and the cam followers at cylinder #4 at TDC compression stroke. In that position, all of the cam lobes are even and "pointing up" away from the followers. Compare to the lobes on cylinder #1, that are pushing the followers down, in valve overlap. It should only be possible to insert a .002" max feeler gage between the cam lobes and the cam followers. Any more clearance is the source of the tapping noise. It is practically certain that one of the hydraulic cam followers has failed and is not maintaining the Zero lash clearance with the cam lobe with the engine running as required. If one of the followers is not filling up with pressurized oil, then that follower will make the tapping noise you hear. To find out which one of the cam followers is tapping, with the engine OFF, and and with cylinder #4 @ TDC compression stroke, try pressing down on the followers with a wooden stick, the faulty follower can be pushed down easily compared to the others. The cam shafts must be removed to replace a cam follower. This is consistent with the variation in the note of the tapping sound as the temperature of the oil changes as you described.

[bigblue]

Really doesn't sound too far off from being normal... All 1.8t that I've ever heard kind of have a tick, even mine and the dealership did my timing belt. It is a tad bit louder than normal but then again I'm not sure what my car sounded like before I started molesting it.

[CrtchRktRcr]

def sounds like a lifter... for a second I almost thought it sounded like an exhaust leak when you were on the drivers side of the head...