One Time Hose Clamp Removal?

[b6onboost]

Please share your tips and tricks to remove the one time hose clamps that our vacuum lines are riddled with.

I searched and all I found were people complaining about how much of a b!tch they are to remove, but no real solution. I spent 10 mins trying to pry one loose without damaging the line/valve, no luck. This was on an easy to reach clamp too. I cannot imagine trying to remove one in a place that I can barely reach.

If there is a tool or something for quick removal I'll buy it, if not what is the easiest way to get them off?

[Undisputed]

I just use a flathead screwdriver and slip it in there. It takes some time. Once it get it pried up a bit, I may even use some pliers. They're definately a PITA.

[[email protected]]

Do this: Take a small flathead to the overlap point (end of the circular clip) and pry it up until it clicks passed the tabs. Once it clicks, it will just fall off. They are really easy to remove once you find the end and pry up a bit.

[RLB6]

What I want to know is where can you purchase new ont time clamps and the tool to install them with

[[email protected]]

What I want to know is where can you purchase new ont time clamps and the tool to install them with

Just use standard hose clamps...they will make small repairs 100x faster.

[akaEsCo01]

Use a flat head and stick it in the open loop where it was closed. Pull to the right and it will either open all the way or loosen up enough that you can pull the hose off.

Second option is use a dremel, I do it all the time because you can't reuse them anyway.

And like Greg said, don't go back and try to replace one time use clamps, they are stupid and a pain. I swear Audi did it to deter people from working on their own cars.

[PDX04a4]

What I want to know is where can you purchase new ont time clamps and the tool to install them with

why on earth would you actually want to replace the one time use clamps with more one time use clamps? just get normal hose clamps you can tighten with a flathead/phillips.

my trick is to take a flat head and try to pry up the end with the tabs sticking through, if you cant get to that for whatever reason (there have been a few where i wasnt able to access that end and the clamp wouldnt rotate around), then i stick the flat head through the "eye" portion sticking up and lift up, then twist toward the end with the tabs. basically you just gotta wrangle with the little ******s until they give out.

[RLB6]

Just use standard hose clamps...they will make small repairs 100x faster.

That's obviously a better solution BUT i'd still like to know.

[ziggituning]

Begin by taking alot of valium, then some deep chi kung breathing, then try what they said!!! i hate those damn clamps!!

[A4SoftWalker]

If anyone here is like i am with those clamps everyone I run into is going to the metal recycling bin.
Then that makes the whole ordeal a few seconds to one minute affair.
Use ur flat tip screwdriver and a pliers and deep-6 them as stuff gets changed/moved aside for service - whatever.
I always have a lot of spare clamps in those common sizes in my toolbox ready to go.

There are 2 reasons those horrible things are used and I cant see anyone of us DIY-ers wanting those on their car:

Reason 1 - 95% - Easy for the assembly line to put on the car as it moves by.
Reason 2 - 5% - Maintain constant clamping pressure if a part expands (which is not much these days but can occur noteably in colder climates)

In general 99% of us will be well served with the screw-on clamps - after all when maximum clamping is required that is what is used on our intercooler pipes.

[secnd2no1]

FLAT HEAD

[old guy]

Reason 1 - 50% - Easy for the assembly line to put on the car as it moves by.
Reason 2 - 50% - Maintain constant clamping pressure if a part expands (which is not much these days but can occur noteably in colder climates)

Ding ding ding! Winner winner chicken dinner!

We use the "one time clamps" all the time at work in the molding room. They are quick and easy to install and they hold a more uniform pressure than a screw type hose clamp. After you get used to using them you realize that they are actually easier to deal with than a screw clamp. We keep a selection of clamp sizes as well as different size clamp pliers. Easy peasy.

(Please note I changed your %'s).

[teg2audi]

I tried the flat head screwdriver technique for the first year i had my car and it was still a pain in the ass. Then i started using these and never looked back. You simply find the section of the clamp that is bent up and cut it.

[thebikedoctor33]

i found that a good pair of snips does the trick. In particular I use some bike cable cutters made by Pedros. They slice through the raise portion like butter. I had to buy another pair for use on my bikes though as the blades are starting to get little nicks from the clamps, obviously not the intended use.

[tylerS]

this. i use an old pair of tin snips and just rip them off.

I tried the flat head screwdriver technique for the first year i had my car and it was still a pain in the ass. Then i started using these and never looked back. You simply find the section of the clamp that is bent up and cut it.

[edge19lw]

If you want the one time clamps try this place: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-and-tube-clamps/=6muyns
and here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#pinch-clamp-pincers/=6muzua

Dougyfresh referred me here awhile ago so i bought them there, they're a good site!

[sfl_A4]

If you want the one time clamps try this place: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hose-and-tube-clamps/=6muyns
and here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#pinch-clamp-pincers/=6muzua

Dougyfresh referred me here awhile ago so i bought them there, they're a good site!

I went to R&R my turbo pressure valve this weekend and ran into these one-time use clamps. I was going to R&R my turbo pressure valve, which has 3 hose barbs on it, and each has one of these clamps on it. Does anyone know what size clamps I need for this job?

@ Thomas / Dougyfresh - thank you. I'l place an order with McMaster once I know what I need to order.

[blitz2190]

Not at my car to measure atm but when you do replace them use t-bolt hose clamp's instead that way you can remove them if you ever have to again, I don't recommend the regular hose clamps as they tend to tear the rubber.

[diagnosticator]

Use hose clamps for 1.0" to 1.250" or 20mm to 30mm range.

[lyates1987]

I wish I had pictures of the times I sliced the sh!t out of my hands while removing these bastards. My favorite was when I sliced through the part on my thumb where my nail meets the skin. Good times....

[customa4]

Invest in a very small screw driver and pry it up under the end of the clip. Once you pop that edge up you'll be good to go. You'll want one small enough to fit in tight places for all of the pain in the ass spots those clamps are.

[blitz2190]

I just cut them with a sharp set of wire cutters

[sfl_A4]

Use hose clamps for 1.0" to 1.250" or 20mm to 30mm range.

That seems way too big. By eyeing it they seem about 1/2" or so. I just did the clamps on my N80 valve and they were 1/2 to 9/16"

[jacobsen]

I use a hose pick, just push it into the opening and wiggle it open, then you can reuse it. These are called cinch clamps... These style of clamps work best on small hoses because the screw style don't clamp down well on small things. But I prefer the screw type myself with the raised threads that don't bite into the hoses.

[lensl222]

I use a hose pick, just push it into the opening and wiggle it open, then you can reuse it. These are called cinch clamps... These style of clamps work best on small hoses because the screw style don't clamp down well on small things. But I prefer the screw type myself with the raised threads that don't bite into the hoses.

Those rings are cinch rings and used in the plumbing industry all thetime for pex pipe you can get the rings and crimping tool at home depot Lowe's or any hardware store

[spek10]

It's all part of all auto manufacturer's little cold war against do-it-yourselfers. For the same reason they don't eliminate interferences. It would be easy for Audi to route hoses and wires to where you could easily access the failure points for the cars (in my case, ignition coils). But Audi calculates the back end money for repairs when they design the car - they can't have you pop over to the auto parts store and grab a replacement coil for $45 and put it in in 20 minutes - they want you to go to an Audi dealer and pay $100 for the genuine Audi coil (and $18 for the genuine Audi spark plug, when a Denso or an Autolite plug for $4 would work fine), and charge you $250 in labor to put it in. The cinch clamps are just another little obstacle in their attempt to make you throw up your hands and take it in. Not to mention they are cheaper, and non-reusable....

[fR3ZNO]

It's all part of all auto manufacturer's little cold war against do-it-yourselfers. For the same reason they don't eliminate interferences. It would be easy for Audi to route hoses and wires to where you could easily access the failure points for the cars (in my case, ignition coils). But Audi calculates the back end money for repairs when they design the car - they can't have you pop over to the auto parts store and grab a replacement coil for $45 and put it in in 20 minutes - they want you to go to an Audi dealer and pay $100 for the genuine Audi coil (and $18 for the genuine Audi spark plug, when a Denso or an Autolite plug for $4 would work fine), and charge you $250 in labor to put it in. The cinch clamps are just another little obstacle in their attempt to make you throw up your hands and take it in. Not to mention they are cheaper, and non-reusable....

sweet necrobump btw

[Gin+]

LOL