Coolant in oil, what to do? HELP!

[eurotecknik]

As some of you AZ members may know, I have been having issues with my car lately. I'd like to thank those who have helped me thus far. Much appriciated. Here is my problem.
Recently I have installed a new OEM head gasket. Compression on the car ('01 A4 1.8T QM) is within spec.
Cylinder head was rebuild and the re-faced and inspected for cracks. Cylinder head bolts (ARP bolts) were torqued in sequence.
The instructions that came with the ARP bolts set were: Stage 1: 45ft-pounds and Stage 2: additional 90 degree turn. Did exactly that.
This is the 3-rd time I change the oil already. Yesterday, while I was at it, I decided to take off the hoses that go to the oil cooler and loop them together to bypass the cooler. I thought that was the problem as before:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ht=eurotecknik
Well, I idled the car in the garage after changing the oil and bypassing the cooler for about 30 minutes and then turned off without driving it. Oil was fine at that point. Today (the next day) I decided to take the car around the block, and upon coming back home (5 minute drive max) I checked the oil. The dipstick was looking like there were signs of mixing again so I drained my 1 day old oil. Basically, it was looking the same as the picture I have from my old thread. I also see that there is some small amount of oil in the coolant.
My motor is all stock internally and has 89K on the clock. FYI, the head gasket was installed the right way with the VW/Audi logo facing up and on the intake side.
I have ruled out the oil cooler. What else could it be besides the block being cracked internally somewhere between the passages? I mean what are the odd of that being the case? I have never tracked the car. I have had my GTRS for a 1.5 years at 20PSI. But I haven't had much fun with it because my clutch started slipping real bad shortly after.

Any insight into my situation would be great. At this point I am not sure what the next step with my car would be.
Thanks again.

[walky_talky20]

How about oil-coolant swapping in the turbo CHRA? That's a possibility, no?

[eurotecknik]

How about oil-coolant swapping in the turbo CHRA? That's a possibility, no?

Definately, I thought about that also but forgot to mention.
I don't know. My GT28RS elim has 10K on it and I bought it brand new.
I guess I could try blocking the coolant lines that go to the turbo and see if it eliminates the mixing.
I am stumped, I honestly don't think I will get rid of this problem easily.
I will get a pressure tested tomorrow.

[eurotecknik]

Fogot to mention that before the head gasket was replaced, I didn't notice any signs of oil and coolant mixing. Although I didn't pay attention much I would have noticed the MILKY color oil. Could it be that I need to give the cylinder head bolts another 45 degree turn. Is it ok to do that? Is it possible that could be the problem even though compression checks out fine? I am lost!

[revolution337]

Fogot to mention that before the head gasket was replaced, I didn't notice any signs of oil and coolant mixing. Although I didn't pay attention much I would have noticed the MILKY color oil. Could it be that I need to give the cylinder head bolts another 45 degree turn. Is it ok to do that? Is it possible that could be the problem even though compression checks out fine? I am lost!

head gasket is definitely a possibility. did you use the correct torque sequence?

[PoormansA4]

pressure test the cooling system, you can rent a tester from autozone.

[eurotecknik]

Bump, anyone else? I don't know what to do :( Everything was done by the book and now this. If it is my block, how can it crack so easily?

[CrtchRktRcr]

Sorry bro, like i told you last time. Block is cracked. Could have something blocking the coolant terminal, or oil passage... Hot spot, then suddenly cooled and crack. or overheated bad.

[un1ko]

pressure test the cooling system, you can rent a tester from autozone.

You should try what PoormansA4 says. If the block was damaged wouldn't he loose oil pressure? What would be the symptoms?

[eurotecknik]

Thanks to those who replied already. I just need to narrow my problem down as much as possible before deciding to do something drastic.
un1ko - Thanks, I hope someone can answer those questions.

[CrtchRktRcr]

You should try what PoormansA4 says. If the block was damaged wouldn't he loose oil pressure? What would be the symptoms?

Depending on where the crack is in theory yes., He would lose some oil pressure. It's not a gigantic hole where oil just pours out...but it's a crack where some leaks.

[eurotecknik]

I called today the machine shop that did the rebuild on my cylinder head. The dude said that they didn't pressurize the cylinder head to check for cracks. He didn't think that would be an issue. I was speechless. Now I am back where I have started :( My question is....It is more common for the cylinder head to crack internally than the block, correct?

[dcampana]

yes its more common of an issue for head issues that the cast block to have issues....

i cant believe the machine shop did not pressure test. wtf??? that would piss me off something fierce.

[CrtchRktRcr]

Well get on them, make them do it for free.

[blacka4]

wtf didn't magnaflux the head to check for cracks. that sounds like a shitty machine shop. I know the one I deal with does this without me telling them to do so...take the head back off the car, back to a better machine shop, have them test for cracks...

[dcampana]

^^ i would take it back to the old machine shop, and have them do that. that should be INCLUDED int he rebuild. if they can not guarantee the head holds pressure how can they say its rebuilt? do they not stand behind their work? start there. if you get flak, go somewhere else and file a complaint with the BBB....

[eurotecknik]

Update: Came back from the machine shop where the rebuild was done. No charge for it and the air pressure testing turned out ok. The guy said that magnaflux can't be done on aluminum heads. I also talked to him about the block being the problem and he said he never has seen a block cracked internally by a little overheating. He has +30 years experience. He told me that something is causing the gasked not to seal properly, although the head and block surface are flat as they can be. I was told to look at my headbolts and the gasket. Well, nothing wrong with the gasket but take a look at this picture.

ARP bolt on the left and OEM on the right.

[eurotecknik]

No one reading this is using ARP cylinder head bolts?

[un1ko]

I hope you get this problem resolved soon! I Googled the ARP bolts and they seem to be correct. I don't think the problem is the ARP bolts, I think it's a different issue. Below is a link and it seems that this person had a similar issue, but there's no feedback of what the issue was. You might want to ask the guy to see what it was or if he resolved it. I don't want to say this, but I think it can be the block. I wonder if there's any way of testing to see if the block is damaged. Did you talk to Bill to see if he can do any tests?


http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...-sludge-oil-in

[CrtchRktRcr]

just because he has never seen it doesn't mean it's not possible. and anyone else agree about the not testing aluminum heads?

[un1ko]

just because he has never seen it doesn't mean it's not possible. and anyone else agree about the not testing aluminum heads?

I believe the cylinder head was tested now and it's fine. What he's saying is that he's never seen a block crack internally, but I agree that this can be that issue. The bad thing though is if he gets a new block, rebuilds it and installs everything and still has the same issue. On the positive side he'd have a brand new engine and I would hope by doing a rebuild he would upgrade and change the rods and get AEB pistons.

[CrtchRktRcr]

The mechanic said he was unable to bench pressure test it because it's aluminum. I had never heard that before. Obviously do some more research before replacing the engine. All in all, there are only a few ways coolant and oil can mix.

[terraflata]

They were able to pressure test it, but you can't magnaflux aluminum. Magnaflux can be used on our iron blocks though. As far as I know they only way to check for cracks on an aluminum head is a dye that machine shops use.

I don't know how much you trust your machinist. But just to be on the safe side while the head is off, I would take it to someone else and have it pressure tested. Some people who who do the head work and realize they made a mistake, might not be so quick to fix it!