Car not starting after refuel? = Solved. Bad mileage related? = pending

[Coderedpl]

So recently my car has developed a problem of its own. No surprise here, everything starts happening after my damn warranty expires
The only recent change was new coilpacks from dealer since mine died.

Anyway, I tank up the usual like I have for the past year of ownership, 93 at bp. I turn the gas cap about 3-5 clicks and I get back in the car, let the pump prime, and attempt to start the car. It cranks and cranks but doesn't want to turn over. I try again, same result. I try again, almost started. I wait, and try again, it starts but runs rough, gas it up a bit and try driving. Stop again, and it works fine like nothing ever happened. After that if i shut off the car and start it again, i wont have any problems.

What can that be?
After doing some searching I'm getting results that it might be the n80 valve?
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ight=n80+valve
And some other threads

Just want to make sure that it could be this.
Anybody got a link where to buy it? or do i tell the dealer n80 valve and they would know?

Another note to make is that my mileage has gotten VERY VERY bad. It got to the point where i'm loosing about 100 miles worth of driving than usual, and no, i dont mash the gas all the time now. I actually took it easy to see what it is.



Also, I noticed my valve cover, is well, leaking. I'm guessing all that needs to be done is the gasket? Looks like a 13$ part from ECS. Is that the most common cause? Is it something 'one' can handle on their own? Biggest thing i did was a test-pipe so far :P

Thanks in advance!

[CystmX]

Yup, deff sounds like the N80 vavle. I had this same problem. It's like a $20 part. Just get it at the dealership.

[Coderedpl]

Yup, deff sounds like the N80 vavle. I had this same problem. It's like a $20 part. Just get it at the dealership.

The valve affects the mileage and how much u burn right?
Cuz mine got really shitty lately

[CystmX]

I don't know about gas mileage but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a effect on it.

A bad purge valve will stay open when you turn the car off. Allowing fuel vapors to enter your intake causing a rough start.

[Coderedpl]

Anybody have the part #'?

[Coderedpl]

Picked up the valve today, planning to install tonight. Hopefully it resolves the issue.

[B72.0T]

^Let us know.

[JRMSLINEA4]

Page 15 http://www.mk5gli.com/downloads/2.0t.pdf

[Coderedpl]

^Let us know.

Update: Picked it up in the morning, installed late late night. Took me about 30 minutes, longer than it should really but its due to the "clamps" or w.e you want to call them that are there from factory. I still have no idea if there is a specific way to remove those or not. I ended up breaking one by force and the other I somehow magically got off.
Plugged back in, put on regular hose clamps and started the car. Started fine. I was VERY low on fuel, about maybe 10 miles or so left, so i drove to a nearby gas station to tank up for half....then...the moment of truth......

It fired up on the first try, so it seems like it was the N80 valve like it was said before. Maybe it was coincidence but when i tanked up and started the car the mileage left on the DIS showed 145...by the time i reached my first red light (less than 0.5 miles away) it went to 160, and few moments later 165 and then back down to 160...

I'll report on if it affected the mileage later on.

[Sprinty]

I had the same problem and replaced mine this weekend along with the breather (pcv?) valve. I had read that it can contribute to oil getting blown through and showing up near the coil packs/valve cover. I consistently get oil pooled up in the first screw hole near the front cp. Hopefully that resolves the problem, but the N80 eliminated my bad start situation immediately.

As far as the hose clamps, they are a b*tch to get off. I broke one off by using a vise grip to twist the crimp out, the second one was angled so I could see how to remove it. There are teeth that stick out from the clamp and lock into the slots on the part that wraps over the outside. If you lift the last tooth so that it is vertical, you can use small pliers or a small screwdriver to pry up the end and pull it off. I replaced them both with regular screw on hose clamps too.

[Coderedpl]

I had the same problem and replaced mine this weekend along with the breather (pcv?) valve. I had read that it can contribute to oil getting blown through and showing up near the coil packs/valve cover. I consistently get oil pooled up in the first screw hole near the front cp. Hopefully that resolves the problem, but the N80 eliminated my bad start situation immediately.

As far as the hose clamps, they are a b*tch to get off. I broke one off by using a vise grip to twist the crimp out, the second one was angled so I could see how to remove it. There are teeth that stick out from the clamp and lock into the slots on the part that wraps over the outside. If you lift the last tooth so that it is vertical, you can use small pliers or a small screwdriver to pry up the end and pull it off. I replaced them both with regular screw on hose clamps too.

I think i'll need to do my PCV too. How much is it?
Yea for the second clamp thats exactly what i did, pulled up from last tooth.

[rensho]

Stupid VW/Audi has had this N80 issue for 10 years, and yet won't fix/redesign the stupid problem. Silly silly company.

[scoobycarolan]

Which is the n80? The crankcase breather?

[CystmX]

Which is the n80? The crankcase breather?

Purge Valve.

[Coderedpl]

It sort of seems like the mileage improved but can't tell for sure until i reach the end of the tank.

[Sprinty]

I think i'll need to do my PCV too. How much is it?
Yea for the second clamp thats exactly what i did, pulled up from last tooth.

PCV was about 35, those hoses come off with ease since they just pressure fit. The lower torx bolt closest to firewall is a little trick to get to so make sure you have a long thin or flex extension 8" or so.